IN  MEMOR1AM 
BERNARD  MOSES 


AS    IN    1840 


TEXAS    IN    1840, 

n 

OR   THE 

EMIGRANT'S    GUIDE 


TO    THE 

NEW    REPUBLIC; 

BEING 

THE  RESULT  OF  OBSERVATION,  ENQ.UIRY  AND  TRAVEL 
IN  THAT    BEAUTIFUL  COUNTRY. 

BY  AN  EMIGRANT, 

LATE      OF      THE      UNITED      STATES, 


Land  of  the  prairies,  hail ! 
Of  birds  and  music,  of  flowers  and  beauty, 
Of  loveliness  and  hope,— Peace  be  thy  lot, 
Joy  thine  inheritance,  and  Holiness  thy  praise ! 


WITH     AN     INTRODUCTION     BY     THE 

REV.  A.  B.  LAWRENCE, 

OF    NEW    ORLEANS. 

NEW    YORK: 

PUBLISHED    BY    WILLIAM   W.    ALLEN, 

AND  SOLD  BY  ROBINSON,  PRATT  &  CO.,  73  WALL  STREET, 
COLLINS,   KEESE    &    CO.,    254   PEARL    STREET, 

AND   BY   THE   BOOKSELLERS   GENERALLY. 

1840, 


rfOSES 

Entered  according   to   the    act  of  Congress   in   the   year 

BY    WILLIAM    VV.    AI.I.LY 
C  ierk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  > 


TO     THE 

HON.     DAVID     G.   BURNET, 

VICE    PRESIDENT    OF   TEXAS, 

SIR, 

Permit  this  humble  attempt  to  convey  to  the  Public  some  just  views 

of    the   state,  advantages,   prospects,   policy,  and 

destinies  of  Texas, 

"aP©     (Bi;     E)  g  Ig)  a  ©  ^  T  ^  E>    IT  ©    V©IL!J3 

As  a  feeble  testimonial  of  respect  for  your  character ;  of  honor  for 

your  patriotism,  and  of  high  estimation  of  your 

talents  as  a  statesman: 


If  other  considerations  need  be  mentioned,  they  will  be  found  in 

reference  to  the  regard  your  domestic  virtues  and  moral 

purity  are  held  by  your  feUow-^citizen, 

THE     PUBLISHER. 


777427 


Vil 


CONTENTS. 


CHA  PTER    I. 

Description  of  Galveston  Island.  Horticultural  pursuits.  Gardens  produc- 
tive in  winter  as  in  summer.  Abundance  of  fish  and  birds.  Deer  fast 
disappearing.  Prosperity  of  the  Island.  Steam  packets,  foreign  com- 
merce, etc.  Inundation  by  water.  Visited  by  yellow  fever  in  1839. 
No  local  causes  for  disease.  Delightful  situation  for  summer  residence. 
San  Jacinto  classic  ground.  Description  of  Buffalo  Bayou.  City  of 
Houston  and  surrounding  country.  Fine  pasture  lands.  Two  routes  from 
Houston  to  Austin,  the  new  capital.  23. 

CHAPTER    II. 

Enter  upon  the  undulating  country.  Desirable  situations  for  family  resi- 
dences. Flocks  of  deer  seen  feeding  and  sporting  on  the  prairies.  A 
settler's  views  of  the  country.  Vegetables,  fruits,  nuts,  etc.  Rapid  mul- 
tiplication of  stock.  The  country  increases  in  beauty.  A  family  of  emi- 
grants. Indian  depredations.  Reflections.  Productiveness  of  the  bot- 
tom lands.  Wild  rye.  Singing  of  birds.  Lovely  May  weather  in 
January.  A  hunter  and  his  dogs  Wild  cat.  Lady  travelling  unattend- 
ed. Brazos  river.  Town  of  Washington.  Texian  cotton.  Soil  easily 
cultivated.  Great  liberality.  Pet  fawn.  Heavy  forests.  Seven  plan- 
tations at  one  view.  Religious  privileges.  Schools.  Temperance  so- 
ciety. Great  productiveness  of  the  soil,  stock,  etc.  29 

CHAPTER    III. 

Regard  for  the  Sabbath.  Preaching  in  a  settlement.  An  eccentric  indi- 
vidual. Indian  anecdotes.  Causes  of  enmity  to  the  Indians.  Abun- 


Vill  CONTENTS. 

dance  of  game.  Utility  of  dogs  in  Texas.  Sufferings  of  the  settlers 
during  the  war  of  independence.  Travellers  seeking  settlements.  A 
waggoner's  opinion  of  Texas.  No  Mosquitoes  in  the  upper  country. 
Preparing  for  conflict  with  Indians.  A  border  family.  Indian  Massa- 
cre. Pursuit  and  destruction  of  several  Indians.  Hard  lodging.  Town 
of  Rutersville.  Its  academies  and  prospects.  Town  of  La  Grange. 
Rich  pastures.  Fat  cattle.  Butter  and  cheese  staple  commodities  of 
Texas.  Wild  Turkeys.  40 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Meet  travellers  from  New  York.  A  negro's  opinion  of  farming  in  Texas. 
Rough  country.  Town  of  Bastrop.  Discovery  of  the  bones  of  a  mam- 
moth animal  in  its  neighborhood.  Flourishing  plantation.  Indian  anec- 
dotes. Female  courage.  Cedar  forests.  Difficulty  in  crossing  a  creek. 
Natural  vineyards.  Enter  Austin.  President's  house  the  first  object 
seen.  General  description  of  the  city  when  six  months  old.  Indians. 
Their  degraded  state.  Wandering  through  the  streets  almost  in  a  state 
of  nudity.  Fall  of  water  in  the  Colorado,  suitable  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses. Beautiful  marble.  Building  stone.  Neighborhood  of  Austin  re- 
markable for  its  beauty  and  fertility.  A  Linnean  garden  of  fifty  acres. 
Austin  desirable  as  a  place  of  residence.  Its  interior  position  giving  it 
immunity  from  crimes  and  immoralities  consequent  upon  maritime  cities. 
Sabbath  in  Austin.  General  respect  for  Christian  observances,  etc.  53 

CHAPTER    V. 

Cross  the  Colorado  above  Austin  to  visit  the  highlands.  Fine  farming 
country.  Splendid  views.  Mountains  seen  in  the  distance.  See  traces 
of  the  buffalo.  Petrified  shells.  Texas  once  submerged  by  the 'waters  of 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Two  captive  buffalo.  Visit  an  aged  settler.  His  ex- 
posed situation.  His  last  conflict  with  the  Indians.  His  opinion  of  Texas 
as  a  farming  country.  A  novel  spring — Its  limpid  waters.  Beautiful 
singing  birds.  A  wolf.  Visit  to  Gen.  Burleson.  Fight  with  the  Chero- 
kees.  Texian  troops  drive  in  25,000  head  of  buffalo.  Gen.  B's.  account  of 
the  upper  country.  Texas  the  store  house  of 'the  western  world.  68 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Geographical  position  of  Texas.    It  contains  more  productive  and  valuable 
laud  than  any  other  country  of  similar  extent  in  the  known  world.    Its 


CONTENTS.  iX 

natural  divisions  are,  the  level,  undulating,  and  mountainous  or  hilly 
country.  The  mountainous  portion  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  various 
kinds  of  grain — abounds  in  fine  springs.  Abundance  of  water  for  hy- 
draulic and  other  mechanical  purposes.  Minerals  abound.  Silver  mines 
once  worked.  The  cross  timbers  a  curiosity.  Bottom  lands  exceedingly 
rich.  Sabine  Lake — the  Neches  and  Sabine  rivers  fall  into  it— vast 
quantities  of  fertile  and  valuable  lands  on  their  banks.  Matagorda  Bay — 
Colorado  river  empties  into  it. — Labacca  Bay — nearest  navigable  point 
of  communication  with  Austin.  Aransaso  Bay — abounds  with  fish  and 
turtle.  81 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Texas  one  of  the  healthiest  regions  of  America.  Causes  of  the  winter 
4  Northers'— their  arid  character  and  general  influence.  The  Gulf 
breezes  constant  visitants  throughout  the  summer.  Prairies  conducive  to 
health.  A  residence  in  Texas  highly  favorable  to  Consumptive  patients. 
Several  remarkable  cases  of  cures  known  to  the  writer.  The  Soil  of 
Texas  not  excelled  by  any  other  portion  of  the  Globe.  Live  oak  trees. 
Grape  Vines.  A  vinftyarrl  soon  rendered  profitable  Mnsquit  trr>p- — 
Its  suitability  for  hedges.  All  the  fruits  peculiar  to  the  temperate  zone 
will  flourish  in  Texas.  '98 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

The  varied  uses  of  corn.  Irish  potatoes  indigenous. — Two  crops  of  corn 
can  usually  be  obtained  each  year.  Price  of  corn  in  1839-40.  Fine 
cotton  country.  Large  crops.  Sugar  cane — its  superiority  over  that  of 
the  United  States.  The  utility  and  healthfulness  of  Sugar.  The  culti- 
vation of  the  cane  not  confined  to  wealthy  farmers.  Method  of  cultiva- 
ting Sugar.  Rice  can  be  grown  to  great  profit.  Indigo  indigenous. 
Process  ef  culture — its  manufacture  profitable.  Grapes — their  abun- 
dance— suitable  as  an  article  of  trade.  Flax  and  hemp.  Tobacco. 
Sweet  Potatoes — their  excellence.  Garden  vegetables.  113 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Cattle  raised  without  expense.  A  well  conducted  Dairy  a  profitable  busi- 
ness. Horses — the  country  well  adapted  for  raising  the  finest  breeds. 
Wild  horse  of  the  prairie.  Working  cattle  easily  broken.  Sheep 


X  CONTENTS. 

and  goats.       English  wool   growers.      Swine — their    increaie.      Mast. 
The  ground   pea.      Domestic    fowls — their   increase.      Bees— a  simple 
method  of  preserving  them.     Wax  and  honey  an  article  of  exportation. 
Silk  worms  —  adaptedness  of  Texas    to  the  growing  of  silk.      Farm 
ing  advantages  of  the  country,  etc.  130 

CHAPTER    X. 

Peaches.  Rapid  growth  of  the  trees.  Dried  peaches  an  article  of  com- 
merce. Apples  and  pears  not  much  cultivated.  Wild  Plums.  Al- 
monds can  be  grown  near  the  coast.  Figs,  oranges,  etc.  will  suc- 
ceed well.  The  Nopal — its  peculiarities.  The  hawthorn  valuable  as 
an  hedge.  144 

CHAPTER    XI. 

The  pcccan  tree — its  large  growth  and  abundant  fruit.  Usage  orange — 
its  peculiarities.  Cherry  laurel,  or  wild  peach.  Prickly  ash.  Wild 
China  tree.  Spanish  persimmon.  Cayenne  pepper.  Great  variety  of 
wild  Deans.  Vanilla — iia  value  and  peculiarities.  Sage.  Wild  rve. 
Musquit  grass.  Gama  grass.  Native  clover.  Valuable  medicinal 
plants.  Mimosa  or  sensitive  plant.  Great  profusion  of  flowers,  etc.  153 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Petrified  shells  found  on  the  elevated  prairies.  Animal  remains  disco- 
vered imbedded  in  the  earth.  Most  of  the  rocks  composed  of  lime- 
stone. Iron  abounds  in  rocks  and  in  oxide.  Coal  in  inexhaustible 
quantities.  Lead  ore.  Copper  mines  discovered.  Silver  mines  once 
worked  in  Texas.  Gold  found.  Marble.  Singular  mass  of  metal. 
Petrified  wood.  Salt.  Copperas.  Alum.  Sulphur  springs,  etc.  170 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

The  bison,  improperly  called  the  buffalo.  Deer.  Wild  goats.  Peccary, 
or  Mexican  hog.  Wild  hogs.  Bears.  Racoons.  Fox  and  grey 
squirrels.  Jaguars.  Leopards.  Wolves.  Foxes,  etc.  180 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

Eagles.  Prairie  hawks.  Fish  hawks.  Owls.  Buzzards,  or  vultures. 
Swans.  Cranes.  Geese.  Ducks.  Turkeys.  Red  birds.  Wood- 
peckers. Starlings.  Prairie  hens,  duails.  Pheasants.  Orioles. 
Turtle  doves.  Larks.  Birds  of  Paradise.  Mocking  birds.  Paro- 
quets," etc. FISHES. —  Red  fish.  Sheepshead.  Trout.  Perch. 

Mullet.     Drumfish.     Crabs.     Oysters.     Clams.     Muscles,  etc.          193 

CHAPTER    XV. 

Alligators — simple  method  of  destroying  them.  Land  tortoises.  Sea 
tortoises — valuable  for  food.  Rattle  snakes — remedies  to  cure  their 

bite.     Black  snakes  and  bull  snakes,  etc.  not  venomous. INSECTS. 

Large  spider.    Centipede.     Scorpion.      Musquito.     Red  bug.      Horse- 
fly.    Ants.     Sand  fly,  etc.  198 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Jasper,  San  Augustine  and  Nacogdoches  are  situated  on  the  Neches 
river  and  its  branches.  Anahuac,  Liberty,  Alabama  and  Cincinnati 
on  the  Trinity.  Galveston,  Bolivar  and  Austinia  on  Galveston  bay. 
Harrisburg  and  Houston  on  Buffalo  bayou.  Velasco  and  duintana  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Brazos.  Brasoria,  San  Felipe  de  Austin  and  Wash- 
ington are  old  towns  on  the  Brazos,  Matagorda,  Columbus,  La 
Grange,  Rutersville  and  Austin  on  the  Colorado.  Victoria  and  Gon- 
zales  on  the  Guadalupe.  Linville,  Cox's  Point  and  Demill's  Landing 
on  La  Baca  Bay.  Goliad  and  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  both  ancient 
Spanish  towns  on  the  San  Antonio.  Aransas,  Lamar  and  Copano  on 
Aransasa  bay.  San  Petrucio  on  the  Rio  Grande,  etc.  209 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Mexicans  in  Texas— their  character,  habits,  etc.  Emigration  chiefly  from 
the  United  States  and  England.  Refutation  of  slanders  cast  on  Texas 
by  her  -enemies.  Causes  of  the  neglect  of  literature  in  former  days. 
Chivalrous  character  of  the  Texians.  Equality  of  all  classes.  Texian 
females.  Log  houses.  Furniture.  Detestable  habit  of  swearing. 
Newspapers,  etc.  226 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Present  favorable  religious  position  of  Texas.  Religious  intolerance  while 
under  the  Mexican  despotism.  The  monkish  farce  of  re-marrying — its 
infamous  tendencies,  Romanism  and  priestcraft  no  longer  tolerated. 
Increase  of  churches.  De  Kalb  College.  Unanimity  of  the  different 
denominations.  Discussion  consequent  upon  religious  liberty.  Sabbath 
schools.  Large  bequests  of  land  for  the  endowment  of  schools,  etc.  238 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

The  Indians  of  Texas — causes  of  their  degraded  state,  and  vicious  and 
destructive  habits.  The  Caddo  Indians — their  defeat  and  dispersion. 
Cherokees  —  civilization,  defeat  and  expulsion  of  that  tribe  from  the 
Texian  territory.  Camanches —  their  predatory  habits  and  faithless 
and  cowardly  character,  etc.  248 

CHAPTE  R    XX. 

Foreign  relations  of  Texas  generally  favorable.  The  war  with  Mexico 
at  the  present  time  merely  nominal.  Considerable  trade  carried  on 
with  that  country.  Policy  of  Texas  pacific.  Texas  the  doorway  for 
the  trade  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  257 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Lands  plenty  and  cheap.  Cultivators  may  all  be  suited.  Caution  re- 
quired in  purchasing  land  claims  from  strangers.  Kind  of  emigrants 
most  needed.  Prices  of  provisions  in  1839-40.  Texas  the  country 
for  farmers.  Directions  to  emigrants  removing  their  families,  goods, 
etc.  267 


PREFACE. 


THE  author  of  the  following  pages,  with  the  purpose  of 
preparing  to  emigrate  with  his  family  to  the  rising 
young  nation  of  the  west,  near  the  close  of  the  year 
1839,  made  a  visit  to  several  towns  on  its  southwestern 
borders.  After  remaining  a  few  days  in  these  places,  he 
was  induced  to  spend  some  time  in  travelling  in  the  in- 
terior. His  method  was  to  take  short  journeys,  visit 
farm  houses  and  villages,  as  well  as  larger  towns,  and 
to  make  enquiries  of  all  classes  of  the  people.  In  this 
manner  he  visited  various  sections  of  the  republic,  in- 
cluding the  late  and  present  capital.  In  the  latter  he 
spent  some  time  during  the  session  of  Congress,  and  en- 
joyed the  privilege  of  conversing  freely  and  fully  with 
members  of  that  body,  and  various  other  distinguished 
individuals  from  every  part  of  the  country.  Availing 
himself  as  fully  as  possible  of  every  facility  for  gaining 
information  respecting  the  situation,  soil,  climate,  pro- 
ductions and  prospects  of  the  whole  country,  he  feels  a 
comfortable  assurance  that  the  facts  and  information 
contained  in  this  publication,  will  be  found  interesting 
to  readers  generally,  arid  especially  useful  to  those,  who, 
like  himself,  are  looking  towards  Texas  as  their  future 
residence. 

As  the  writer's  continuance  in  the  country  was  lim- 
ited, and  his  travels  did  not  embrace  the  whole  of  the 
territory,  he  pretends  not  to  verify  every  fact  from  his 

2 


XIV  PREFACE. 

own  individual  observation.  Still,  as  he  has  derived 
much  of  his  information  from  many  of  the  oldest  resi- 
dents and  men  of  the  highest  intelligence  and  worth,  it 
is  presumed  that  such  facts  will  be  found  no  less  accu- 
rate than  those  he  himself  witnessed,  while  their  con- 
nections and  results  are  much  more  fully  given  than 
could  be  done  by  a  merely  passing  observer.  The  ob- 
ject being  to  furnish  information  to  others,  especially 
such  as  might  desire  to  make  their  home  in  this  country, 
his  design  was  to  obtain  facts  and  views  for  actual  set- 
tlers, as  well  cultivators  of  the  soil  as  of  mercantile  and 
professional  men.  The  facts,  conclusions  and  feelings 
thus  learned,  he  has  endeavored  to  embody  in  the  fol- 
lowing pages. 

Should  the  effect  of  his  work  be  such  as  to  furnish 
useful  information  to  the  thousands  who  are  flocking 
towards  the  new  and  rising  star  of  the  west,  and  to  aid 
the  country  of  his  adoption  in  gaining  to  herself  an  in- 
dustrious, intelligent,  and  virtuous  population,  the  object 
for  which  he  gives  it  publicity  will  be  accomplished. 


INTRODUCTION. 


THOSE  revolutions  and  changes  in  the  political  state  of  countries  which 
dissever  their  parts  and  call  into  existence  nations,  which  but  for  such 
revolutions  must  have  ever  remained  unknown  and  unimportant  pro- 
vinces, are  themes  of  interest  to  the  mind  of  the  philosopher,  the  politi- 
cian, and  the  philanthropist.  To  the  wise,  the  learned  and  inquisitive, 
such,  from  the  nature  of  things  must  ever  be  the  case,  because  all  that 
relates  to  government,  and  especially  all  that  induces  the  breaking  up 
of  old  relations  and  established  systems  and  the  formation  of  new  orga- 
nizations, necessarily  affect  the  happiness  of  men,  and  should  teach 
lessons  of  wisdom  in  relation  to  both  the  preservation  of  old  govern- 
ments and  the  formation  of  new  ones.  History  sustains  the  truth  of 
the  statement  above,  when  she  records  the  bloody  struggles  terminating 
in  the  expulsion  of  the  power  of  Spain  from  Holland,  the  revolution 
which  for  ever  expelled  the  house  of  Stuart  from  the  throne  of  England, 
the  deliverance  of  the  United  States  from  the  power  of  Great  Britain, 
and  the  revolutions  that  broke  in  sunder  the  last  bond  that  bound  any 
part  of  the  American  continent  to  the  throne  of  Spain. 

If  any  circumstance  have  lessened  the  strong  interest  naturally  con- 
nected with  such  events,  the  frequency  and  greatness  of  the  changes 
that  have  marked  the  overthrow  of  governments  in  modern  days  have 
been  the  cause.  So  numerous  have  been  the  revolutions  in  govern- 
ments, so  frequent  the  dismemberment  of  nations,  so  rapid  the  changes 
from  a  state  of  despotism  to  democracy,  and  from  democracy  to  mo- 
narchy, that  a  mere  recital  of  them  would  occupy  pages,  and  the 
briefest  history  of  them  would  fill  numerous  volumes.  Who  could 
recount  the  changes  in  Poland,  France,  the  States  of  Germany,  many 
of  which  formed  for  a  season  a  cluster  of  kingdoms  tributary  to  Napo- 
leon, Italy,  Holland,  Spain,  Portugal,  and  the  manifold  changes  that 
have  transpired  on  our  own  continent  ?  In  several  of  the  above  coun- 
tries three  or  four  radical  revolutions  have  taken  place  in  a  few  years. 
Still,  on  them  and  the  peculiar  events  by  which  they  were  caused  and 
terminated,  political  philosophers  and  moralists  have  meditated,  and 
from  them  educed  lessons  of  practical  wisdom. 

By  the  events  which  severed  Texas  from  the  power  of  Mexico, 
another  class  of  facts  and  principles  are  presented  to  the  investigation 


XVI  INTRODUCTION. 

of  the  wise.  These  will  be  the  more  interesting  as  the  causes  of  this 
revolution  differ  essentially  from  the  causes  of  all  other  similar  events, 
with  the  single  exception  of  that  which  produced  the  independence  of 
the  United  States.  In  both  of  these  innate  love  of  liberty,  general 
intelligence,  knowledge  of  their  rights,  and  a  heroic  purpose  to  yield 
nothing  for  themselves  or  children  to  lawless  power,  will  be  found  to 
form  an  important  class  of  the  sources  of  revolution.  Ambition  of 
aspirants  and  reckless  violence  of  men  of  desperate  fortunes,  or  men 
exposed  by  their  crimes  to  punishment,  give  no  part  of  the  coloring  of 
the  picture  of  the  resistance  of  Texas  to  the  authority  of  Mexico- 
High  principles  of  religious  and  political  freedom,  ardent  patriotism, 
generous  devotedness  to  the  cause  of  regulated  liberty  and  lofty 
heroism,  marked  the  character  of  the  leaders  in  the  great  struggle  of 
Texian  independence.  The  causes  operating  to  the  same  event  in  the 
Congress  and  Executive  of  Mexico,  were  the  violent  abolition  of  the 
Constitution  of  the  country,  the  establishment  of  centralism,  the  at- 
tempts to  enforce  obedience  to  lawless  authority,  and  to  the  authority 
of  the  priests.  Against  these,  a  people  accustomed  to  be  free  naturally 
and  almost  necessarily  contended  ;  peaceably  while  they  could,  but 
forcibly,  when  by  force  they  were  assailed. 

The  emancipation  of  a  nation  from  the  manacles  of  religious  domina- 
tion, of  whatever  form,  is  ever  a  matter  of  interest  to  the  lover  of 
rational  liberty,  and  will  be  hailed  with  delight  by  the  true  philanthro- 
pist of  every  creed.  Every  deprivation  of  the  rights  of  conscience, 
every  violation  of  the  fullest  freedom  in  religion  is  an  outrage  against 
the  dearest  and  most  sacred  rights  of  man,  a  usurpation  of  a  prerogative 
appropriate  to  God  alone,  and  an  attempt  to  control  by  physical  force, 
that  principle  which  mind  alone  can  reach.  Hence,  every  one  who 
understands  the  nature  of  true  liberty,  and  is  not  an  enemy  of  the 
human  race,  must  find  in  such  events  sources  of  sincere  and  cordial 
satisfaction.  If  all  spiritual  tyranny  is  odious  and  deserving  of  resis- 
tance, that  form  of  it  practised  in  Mexico  and  other  Spanish  countries 
is  superlatively  hostile  to  all  that  is  valuable  in  freedom  or  precious  in 
the  rights  of  conscience.  By  the  very  first  article  of  her  constitution 
Mexico  declared  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  established,  and  declares 
that  no  other  shall  be  tolerated.  This  religion,  according  to  the  estab- 
lished canons,  vests  in  the  priests  the  power  to  condemn  without  appeal 
for  heresy,  and  requires  the  civil  power  to  enforce  their  decisions  by  the 
sword,  and  in  several  countries  by  the  faggot.  This  religion  too,  wher- 
ever its  strength  is  equal  to  the  accomplishment  of  such  a  purpose, 
excludes  the  scriptures  from  the  community,  and  discourages  learning 
among  the  common  people.  In  every  part  of  the  world  where  popery 
reigns,  the  doctrine  that  ignorance  is  the  mother  of  devotion,  is  practi- 
cally taught  by  confining  all  the  learning,  reading  and  knowledge  to  a 
select  few,  in  whom  is  vested  the  whole  authority  of  the  country. 

Whether  the  advocates  of  these  tenets  admit  it  or  not  the  above  are 


INTRODUCTION.  XVll 

simple  facts,  and  corroborated  by  a  thousand  circumstances.  Wherever 
now  popery  is  unchecked  by  other  sects  and  infidelity,  darkness  of 
ignorance  covers  the  land  and  gross  darkness  the  people;  the  govern- 
ments are  absolute  despotisms,  or  with  the  name  of  legislatures  are 
connected  the  exercise  of  uncontrolled  power.  Indeed,  where  the 
priests  through  the  confessional  have  access  to  the  most  secret  family 
concerns  of  every  individual,  and  through  servants,  etc.  have  spies  in 
every  household  ;  and  while  they  have  the  power  of  the  civil  sword  to 
enforce  their  demands,  as  well  as  the  fear  of  their  power  to  effect  secret 
ruin,  and  these  priests  become  the  organs  of  despotic  power,  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  conceive  how  real  liberty  and  valuable  freedom  can  possibly 
exist.  If  to  these  things  be  added  the  licentiousness  of  a  priesthood 
who  are,  by  their  celibacy,  tempted  to  the  vilest  libertinism,  and  sepa- 
rated from  all  the  tender  associations  that  bind  men  to  society ;  and  the 
further  fact  that  they  are  all  the  sworn  agents  and  defenders  of  a 
foreign  and  despotic,  civil  and  ecclesiastical  power,  it  becomes  evident 
that  spiritual  and  political  tyranny  is  inseparable  from  any  established, 
or  even  strongly  prevalent  Roman  Catholic,  religion. 

From  the  establishment  of  such  a  religion,  and  from  the  uncontrolled 
power  of  such  a  priesthood,  has  Texas,  by  her  revolution,  been  freed. 
So  long  as  she  continued  subject  to  the  government  of  that  besotted 
and  priest-ridden  nation,  liberty  was  but  a  name  even  if  the  people 
dared  to  speak  of  such  a  boon ;  "education  and  literature,  under  one 
pretence  or  other,  would  be  prevented  ;  social  confidence  and  free 
affection  would  be  destroyed,  because  some  one  would  probably  reveal 
lo  the  priest  the  secrets  of  the  bed-chamber ;  thought,  investigation  or 
enquiry  would  be  dangerous,  lest  any  sentiments  or  principles  deduced 
should  be  decreed  by  an  assize  of  priests  to  be  opposed  to  the  tenets  of 
the  despotic  bishop  of  Rome,  and  every  thing  desirable  to  freemen 
would  necessarily  be  blighted  by  the  withering  influence  of  a  supersti- 
tion, which  has  degraded  half  of  Europe  by  its  influence,  and  deluged 
more  than  half  its  nations  in  blood.  Over  this  triumph  of  free  prin- 
ciples and  the  subversion  of  ghostly  authority,  we  might  expect  the 
adherents  of  the  Man  of  Sin  to  weep;  but  to  our  surprise,  professed 
protestants,  and  professedly  liberal  protestants  have  joined  them  in 
their  wail,  and  united  with  them  to  denounce  the  authors  of  these  bless- 
ings as  traitors,  rebels  and  outlaws,  because  they  did  not  tamely  and 
without  resistance  submit  to  receive  the  mark  of  the  Beast  themselves, 
and  affix  it  to  their  children.  To  the  philosopher  and  Christian  philan- 
thropist is  commended  the  task  of  developing  the  providence,  the 
causes,  the  principles  and  course  of  events,  terminating  thus  happily  in 
the  deliverance  of  a  new  nation  from  political  and  spiritual  bondage, 
and  the  formation  of  a  government  upon  a  model  fitted  at  once  for 
durability  and  the  security  of  the  rights  of  the  people. 

A  history  of  the  present  slate,  agricultural  and  commercial  situation, 
and  probable  prospects  of  a  young  and  yet  unpeopled  empire  lying  near 

2* 


XV111  INTRODUCTION. 

to  our  own  borders,  whose  language,  government,  institutions  and 
habits  are  like  our  own,  abounding  in  fertile  fields  and  nearly  every 
advantage  sought  by  the  farmer,  and  which  opens  wide  its  doors  to 
emigrants  from  every  land,  inviting  them  to  come  and  partake  of  its 
liberty,  its  political  and  commercial  advantages,  without  stint,  saying  to 
every  one  who  chooses  to  plant  his  foot  there,  Tros  Tyriusve  nvllo  di$- 
crimine  agetur,  must  contain  a  mass  of  information  exceedingly  impor- 
tant to  thousands,  not  only  in  the  United  Stales  but  also  in  Europe. 
At  all  times  there  are  great  numbers  of  men  who,  by  just  arriving  at 
maturity  and  commencing  life  for  themselves,  or  from  some  of  the  thou- 
sand other  causes  which  induce  changes  of  abode,  desire  to  remove 
from  their  former  residence  and  choose  a  new  home.  While  this  is  the 
fact,  and  while  various  portions  of  our  own  country  and  Great  Britain 
are  annually  swarming  like  bees  from  the  parent  hive,  they  must  desire 
to  find  some  place  where,  with  fair  prospects  of  success,  they  may  begin 
their  new  plan  of  business.  Especially  in  a  time  like  this  of  commer- 
cial distress,  of  fear,  of  doubt,  and  of  the  destruction  of  fortunes  by 
forced  collections  of  money,  when  very  many  enterprising,  industrious 
and  good  men  are  cast  afloat  upon  the  agitated  billows  of  life,  it  is 
exceedingly  interesting  to  learn  of  a  new  country  whore,  with  compara- 
tively little  capital,  men  may  enter  upon  business,  may  purchase  farms, 
and  lay  secure  foundations  for  future  competency  and  prosperity. 
With  the  broken  remnant  of  a  formerly  good  estate,  full  many  an  emi- 
grant has  already  sought  the  prairies  of  the  new  republic,  planted  him- 
self upon  their  borders,  and  in  not  a  few  instances  begun  to  see  the 
dawn  of  new  hopes,  for  not  only  support,  but  fortune. 

When  the  man  whose  former  plans  and  prospects  have  failed,  is 
hesitating  where  to  go  and  where  to  attempt  again  to  provide  for  his 
family,  to  learn  that  within  reach  of  his  hopes  is  a  land  of  exuberant 
richness,  abounding  in  streams  and  springs  of  water,  easily  brought  into 
successful  cultivation,  and  withal  inhabited  by  a  people  like  his  own, 
speaking  his  own  language,  worshipping  his  own  God  according  to  his 
own  faith,  with  a  government  free,  and  just  and  prosperous,  how  joy- 
fully will  he  turn  his  steps  to  the  favored  spot,  and  there  found  the 
beginning  of  his  hopes,  his  family  and  country. 

To  Protestant  Christians  the  events  of  Texas  are  further  deeply 
interesting,  as  an  indication  of  Providence  in  relation  to  the  propagation 
of  divine  truth  in  other  parts  of  the  Mexican  dominions.  They  do  not 
expect,  nor  even  wish  to  plant  among  the  millions  of  nominal  Roman- 
ists in  that  country  the  true  gospel  by  either  the  sword  or  legislative 
enactment ;  but  they  do  desire  and  expect  to  see  the  time  not  long 
hence,  when  constitutional  and  legal  obstructions  to  the  gospel  will 
even  in  Mexico  be  removed.  The  example  of  Texas  in  this  respect  is 
already  appreciated  by  the  leaders  of  all  those  Mexicans  \vho  are  op- 
posed to  the  tyranny  of  centralism,  and  they  openly  proclaim  their 
purpose  to  secure  religious  freedom  and  the  benefits  of  education  to  the 


INTRODUCTION.  XIX 

whole  people.*  Public  feeling,  even  in  that  region,  is  beginning  to 
demand  that  the  iron  fetters  imposed  upon  the  mind  and  conscience 
shall  be  relaxed,  if  not  utterly  broken  offand  destroyed.  These  circum- 
stances, with  thousands  of  others,  show  that  the  dawn  of  gospel  and 
civil  freedom  begins  to  be  visible,  spite  of  the  fogs,  mist  and  clouds 
which  have  so  long  brooded  darkly  over  the  fair  fields  and  towering 
mountains  of  the  land  of  Guatimozin.  In  connection  with  the  indepen- 
dence and  free  government  of  Texas,  the  struggles  of  the  Mexicans 
themselves  for  liberty,  and  the  glimpses  they  occasionally  have  of  the 
blessings  of  the  liberty  of  conscience  and  the  sound  words  of  prophecy, 
unfold  to  the  hopes  of  the  benevolent  Christian  that  at  no  distant  day 
the  sacred  scriptures,  accompanied  by  the  voice  of  the  preacher  of  righ- 
teousness, shall  penetrate  the  inmost  recesses  of  Mexico,  and  shed  their 
hallowed  light  upon  the  minds  of  thousands  who  have  never  seen  the 
bible,  or  heard  the  voice  of  one  of  the  real  teachers  of  the  gospel  of 
Jesus.  When  once  the  sacred  wedge  finds  entrance  into  this  region,  its 
progress,  though  perhaps  unequal  and  interrupted,  shall  be  onward  and 
onward,  till  it  cleaves  in  pieces  the  compacted  and  mighty  mass  of  dark- 
ness and  error.  Nay,  Mexico  herself  will  in  the  event  appear  to  be  but 
a  suburb  of  the  extended  territory  to  be  pervaded  by  the  conquering 
power  of  the  gospel  of  Jesus.  Guatemala  and  all  South  America  will 
feel  the  bland  influence  of  the  light  of  the  Sun  of  Righteousness  rising 
upon  Mexico,  and  in  due  season,  warmed  by  its  beams,  will  glow  in  the 
light  and  burn  in  the  fervor  of  Christian  truth.  Not  all  the  obstinacy  of 
long  cherished  superstition ;  all  the  ignorance  induced  by  closing  the 
bible  against  the  laity;  all  the  craft  and  influence  of  an  interested  and 
bigotted  priesthood  ;  all  the  stern  enactments  and  decrees  of  tyrannical 
rulers  ;  nor  all  the  power  of  the  fierce  inquisition,  can  stop  the  onward 
progress  of  truth  when  once  fairly  put  in  motion,  and  impelled  forward 
by  the  demands  of  public  feeling,  the  impulse  of  Christian  benevolence, 
and  the  power  of  God  the  Holy  Ghost.  Viewed  then  as  the  beginning 
of  the  downfall  of  Antichrist,  and  the  spread  of  the  Saviour's  power  of 
the  gospel,  the  history  and  relations  of  Texas  must  furnish  to  the  mind 
of  the  ardent  Christian  subjects  of  deep  enquiry,  delightful  contempla- 
tion, and  fervid  thanksgiving. 

Let  but  that  part  of  the  Mexican  constitution,  odious  even  to  millions 
of  Mexicans  themselves,  which  prohibits  the  exercise  of  any  religion 
but  popery,  be  removed  ;  let  the  people  enjoy  the  privilege  of  listening 
to  the  voice  of  the  heralds  of  the  Cross,  and  reading  the  Word  of  Life 
for  themselves,  as  they  now  desire  to  do,  and  how  long  could  the  am- 
bassadors of  Christ  be  kept  from  proclaiming  in  Mexico,  that  it  is  by 
neither  might  or  power  but  by  the  Spirit  of  God  that  men  are  saved  ? 


*  These  statements  were  made  to  a  friend  of  the  writer  in  Texas  by  the  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  Federal  forces,  who  stated  moreover,  that  the  same  views  were  held  by 
all  the  leading  Federalists  of  Mexico. 


XX  INTRODUCTION. 

How  long  before  the  sound  of  faithful  preaching,  according  to  the 
scriptures,  would  be  heard  within  the  walls  of  the  city  of  islands?  And 
when  both  the  Word  and  servants  of  God  find  entrance  into  the  great 
city,  how  long  before  some  of  the  wise  and  learned  will  embrace  its 
simple  and  beautiful  truth,  and  learn  something  of  the  glorious  excel- 
lency of  Emmanuel  ?  When  the  preached  Word,  which  is  the  lamp  of 
God,  shines  amid  surrounding  darkness,  some  eyes  will  be  enlightened, 
some  hearts  won,  and  new  witnesses  for  God  called  to  stand  forth  and 
testify  the  truth  of  the  Lord. 

In  all  the  relations  and  prospects  above  named,  the  republic  of  Texas 
forms  a  subject  of  deep  interest  and  importance.  Its  present  state  and 
future  destiny  are  no  less  matters  worthy  of  the  inquiries  of  the  histo- 
rian, the  philosopher  and  statesman.  At  this  time  its  political  position, 
aspects  and  relations,  are  those  of  a  really  independent  and  established 
member  of  the  family  of  nations. 

In  these  respects  her  existence  has  been  practically  admitted  by  se- 
veral of  the  elder  portions  of  this  great  family,  and  by  two  of  them  her 
independence  has  been  formally  acknowledged.  Both  of  these  have 
diplomatic  representatives  actually  resident  near  the  government  of  this 
youngest  of  the  national  fraternity.  Yet  strange  to  say,  this  incipient 
nation  whose  arms  have  successfully  repelled  the  whole  power  of 
Mexico,  does  riot  now  number  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  alto- 
gether. At  the  time  when  she  declared  her  independence,  it  is  be- 
lieved her  whole  population  was  considerably  less  than  forty  thousand. 
At  her  hour  of  doubtful  conflict  at  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  she  re^ 
tained  within  her  territory  still  fewer  numbers  than  just  before. 

Perhaps  the  history  of  revolutions  records  no  attempt  to  assume  na- 
tional identity  and  being  under  circumstances  more  dubious,  or,  accord- 
ing to  ordinary  calculations,  more  rash.  Casting  themselves  upon  the 
chances  of  war  and  the  providence  of  God,  they  put  all  to  hazard,  and 
soon  exhibited  the  unprecedented  spectacle  of  an  infant  nation  victo- 
rious over  its  parent,  and  holding  the  supreme  magistrate  of  that  parent 
nation  a  prisoner  of  war.  If  such  facts  be  strange,  others  no  less  so 
will  bear  honorable  testimony  to  the  generosity  and  kindness,  aa  well 
as  the  heroism  of  the  patriots  of  Texas. 

A  very  few  weeks  previous  to  the  final  battle  and  victory,  the  Presi- 
dent of  Mexico,  commanding  in  person  the  army  which  invaded  Texas, 
wantonly,  and  in  direct  violation  of  treaty  stipulations  under  which 
Fannin's  troops  surrendered,  murdered  the  whole  corps  in  cold  blood. 
Acting  on  the  same  principles,  he  refused  quarter  to  the  brave  little 
company  that  defended  the  fortress  of  the  Alamo.  His  every  act 
towards  prisoners  shewed  the  settled  purpose  to  murder  all  who  fell 
into  his  hands.  Soon  he  in  turn,  with  several  of  his  principal  officers, 
was  made  prisoner,  not  by  a  surrender  upon  stipulated  terms,  but  by 
being  captured  and  secured  without  a  single  word  of  pledge  for  his 
security.  With  a  noble  elevation  of  generosity  the  Tcxian  officers 


INTRODUCTION.  XXI 

refused  to  retaliate,  even  upon  the  bloody  author  of  these  crimes,  his 
own  cruelty.  If  there  be  left  in  Mexico  one  spark  of  magnanimity, 
whoever  of  them  possesses  it  must,  in  view  of  these  facts,  blush  for 
shame  at  the  degeneracy  of  his  country,  which  has  never  attempted  to 
wipe  the  deep  stain  of  the  murder  of  prisoners  from  its  escutcheon,  by 
disavowing  the  act  or  punishing  the  cowardly  monster  who  perpetrated 
it. 

Now  this  republic  has  settled  and  established  upon  solid  grounds  and 
truly  republican  principles,  her  form  of  government,  taking,  as  far  as 
circumstances  would  permit,  the  United  States  as  her  model.  Her 
legislature  with  calm  deliberation  watches  for  the  well-being  of  the 
nation.  Her  laws  are  equal  and  judicious;  her  people  simple  and 
orderly;  her  magistracy  respectable;  and  peace  among  themselves  is 
universal.  Her  population  is  sparse  in  most  parts  of  the  country,  but  is 
rapidly  increasing  in  numbers  ;  her  militia,  if  not  numerous,  are  patri- 
otic and  brave,  and  need,  to  call  them  promptly  to  the  field,  only  to 
know  that  an  invader's  foot  presses  their  soil.  The  rewards  of  agricul- 
tural industry  are  abundant,  and  the  means  of  supplying  what  is  neces- 
sary to  subsistence  are  found  in  every  portion  of  the  country.  Fearing 
nothing  from  Mexico,  she  is  at  peace  with  all  the  rest  of  mankind,  and 
nothing  indicating  a  ground  of  fear  that  these  pacific  relations  will  be 
interrupted. 

Wherever  the  population  is  sufficiently  dense  the  interests  of  litera- 
ture have  begun  to  receive  attention.  Numerous  schools  and  aca- 
demies have  been  already  organized ;  several  of  which  are  taught  by 
clergymen  and  others  of  high  classical  and  scientific  attainments. 
The  institutions  of  religion  too  have  also  received  a  goodly  share  of 
attention  and  regard.  Already  a  considerable  number  of  respectable 
and  pious  clergymen  are  laboring  in  different  sections  of  the  country, 
and  others  are  frequently  passing  into  it.  Among  these  clergymen  are 
found  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Methodists,  Cumberland  Presby- 
terians and  Baptists,  who  are  all  harmoniously  laboring  to  diffuse  the 
blessings  of  the  gospel  and  to  save  sinners  from  death.  Colleges  have 
been  chartered,  and  the  primary  steps  taken  towards  putting  them  into 
effective  operation.  Perhaps  .few  countries  in  the  world,  of  the  same 
state  of  political  and  commercial  advancement,  have  made  more  ample 
and  efficient  exertions  for  the  promotion  of  education  and  literature 
than  the  young  republic  before  us. 

The  fiscal  concerns  of  the  republic  and  its  currency  are  in  some 
degree  in  disorder,  which  it  will  require  a  little  time  to  correct.  In  these 
respects  however,  the  situation  of  Texas  is  very  far  superior  to  that  of 
the  United  States  at  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war.  Though  the 
treasury  notes  of  the  country  have  greatly  depreciated,  they  still  com- 
mand money  at  a  stated  price,  and  if  the  wise  legislation  of  the  last 
Congress  be  persevered  in  they  must  soon  appreciate,  and  in  a  very  few 
years  be  equal  in  value  to  gold  and  silver. 


XXII  INTRODUCTION. 

The  prospects  of  Texas  in  future  are  as  fair  as  a  fertile  soil,  a  genial 
climate  and  healthful  regions  can  render  a  country.  To  recapitulate  by 
name  the  varied  and  abundant  advantages  possessed  in  this  region,  irri- 
gated by  an  unusual  number  of  pleasant  rivers,  abounding  with  lands 
prepared  by  Nature's  hand  for  the  plough  ;  furnishing  abundant  subsis- 
tence, without  culture  or  labor  of  man,  for  cattle  and  swine ;  and  pro- 
ducing by  cultivation,  corn,  rice,  rye,  buckwheat  and  oats,  sugar, 
cotton  and  other  crops,  in  great  perfection,  would  transcend  the  limits 
prescribed  to  this  part  of  the  work,  and  anticipate  an  important  part  of 
the  following  pages. 

Texas  as  it  is,  forms  the  subject  of  the  book  before  us.  To  those 
who,  like  the  writer  of  this  article,  have  visited  its  waving  prairies,  tra- 
versed many  of  its  elevated  plains,  marked  the  beauty  of  its  scenery, 
noted  the  exuberant  productiveness  of  its  soil,  marked  the  bland  soft- 
ness of  its  winter  breezes,  plucked  some  of  the  gay  flowers  that  even  in 
winter  deck  its  verdant  plains,  and  observed  the  numerous  herds  of 
eleek  cattle  and  fat  beeves  that  feed  untended  upon  the  wintry  products 
of  its  prairie  pastures,  no  part  of  the  following  statements  will  appear 
extravagant  or  exaggerated. 

Should  the  influence  of  this  little  work  produce  a  considerable  in- 
crease of  wise  arid  virtuous  population  in  the  republic  of  Texas,  and 
consequently  find  homes  for  many  who  would  otherwise  be  subjected  to 
the  continued  effects  of  the  distress  of  the  limes;  and  should  it  induce 
many  Christians  to  plant  in  that  country  the  germs  of  the  future 
churches  of  the  Redeemer,  the  writer  and  publisher  will  be  entitled  to 
fho  thanks  of  community,  and  the  consciousness  of  having  done  good  to 
their  fellow  men,  both  in  temporal  and  spiritual  concerns. 

May  a  blessing  from  on  High  attend  it. 

A,  B.  LAWRENCE. 


TEXAS    IN    1840. 


CHAPTER    I. 

Description  of  Galveston  Island. — Horticultural  pursuits. — Gardens  produc- 
tive in  winter  as  in  summer. — Abundance  of  fish  and  birds. — Deer  fast 
disappearing. — Prosperity  of  the  Island. — Steam  packets,  foreign  com- 
merce, etc. — Inundation  by  water. — Visited  by  yellow  fever  in  1839. — 
No  local  causes  for  disease. — Delightful  situation  for  summer  residence. — 
San  Jacinto  classic  ground. — Description  of  Buffalo  Bayou. — City  of 
Houston  and  surrounding  country. — Fine  pasture  lands. — Two  routes  from 
Houston  to  Austin,  the  new  capital. 

THE  principal  entrance  by  sea  into  Texas,  as  well  as  its  most 
important  entrepot  of  foreign  commerce,  is  Galveston,  a 
rapidly  growing  and  prosperous  town,  situated  on  the  eastern 
extremity  of  Galveston  Island,  and  immediately  adjoining  the 
inlet  of  Galveston  Bay.  This  island,  like  very  much  of  the 
southern  and  south-western  coast  of  the  United  States,  is  a 
low  and  level  sand  beach,  and  seems  to  have  once  been  merely 
a  bar  or  sand  bank,  some  distance  from  the  shore,  and  formed 
by  the  comparative  stillness  of  the  water  at  the  point  where 
the  advancing  and  retreating  waves  met.  The  surface  is 
composed  exclusively  of  silicious  sand,  mixed  with  such  veg. 
etable  and  animal  substances,  as  have  from  time  to  time  mingled 
with  it. 

Though  the  structure  of  the  soil  indicates  nothing  favorable 
to  cultivation,  the  whole  island  is  covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  grass,  the  annual  burning  of  which,  by  accident 
or  design,  has  uttterly  precluded  the  growth  of  every  species 
of  timber,  only  three  trees  being  known  to  exist  on  its 


24  •  RESOURCES    OF    GALVESTON    ISLAND. 

whole  extent  of  thirty  miles  in  length.  It  is  found  also  by 
experiment,  that  with  proper  attention  to  manuring,  gardens 
become  highly  productive,  and  yield,  in  addition  to  many 
luxuries,  abundant  profits  to  their  proprietors. 

As  might  be  expected,  therefore,  several  enterprising  in- 
dividuals have  lately  turned  their  attention  to  horticulture, 
purposing  to  supply  not  only  the  town,  but  the  numerous  steam 
boats  and  shipping  that  constantly  cover  its  wharves,  with  the 
healthful  and  delicate  products  of  the  garden.  So  far  the  re- 
sult has  proved  highly  satisfactory  to  both  the  owners  and 
their  customers. 

It  is  a  circumstance  not  to  be  forgotten,  that  in  this  climate 
these  gardens  are,  with  a  short  interval,  nearly  as  profitable  in 
the  winter  as  at  other  seasons  of  the  year.  Nearly  every 
month  can  furnish  fine  lettuce,  radishes,  beets,  and  peas, 
and  thus  regale  the  appetite  of  the  northern  traveller,  as  he 
arrives  on  the  coast  in  winter,  with  the  luxuries  of  his  own 
summer  season. 

This  island  is  indented  by  a  number  of  creeks,  or  rather 
inlets,  from  the  gulf,  on  the  south,  or  the  bay  on  the  opposite 
side,  extending,  in  some  instances,  more  than  half  its  width  of 
two  or  three  miles,  and  meandering  considerable  distances  in 
other  directions.  These  creeks,  composed  mostly  of  salt  water, 
are  the  constant  resort  of  numberless  fishes  of  different  kinds, 
including  redfish,  sheephead,  salt  water  trout,  etc.  Here  too 
are  found  frequent  beds  of  the  finest  oysters,  yielding  an 
abundant  and  cheap  supply  of  this  delicacy  to  the  whole  island, 
and  much  of  the  adjoining  coast. 

If  these  waters  are  productive  of  the  tribes  of  fish,  they  are 
no  less  so  of  various  aquatic  birds.  Among  all  the  waters 
intersecting  the  island,  are  found  vast  numbers  of  geese, 
brandt,  ducks  of  numerous  kinds,  and  nearly  every  variety  of 
the  smaller  waders  and  inhabitants  of  the  shores.  In  the  same 
vicinity  are  found  cranes  and  herons,  pelicans  and  gulls  in 
vast  numbers.  The  sportsmen  find  abundant  use  for  their 


PROSPECTS    OF    THE    CITY.  25 

rifles  and  other  fire  arms,  and  the  epicure  no  less  relishes  the 
fruits  of  the  sportsman's  labors.  But  whether  the  too  eager 
pursuit  of  this  game  may  not  soon  induce  it  to  desert  this  once 
favorite  spot,  is  a  problem  that  it  is  feared  will  soon  be  solved. 
Deer,  too,  were  formerly  plenty  in  the  central  and  western 
part  of  the  island,  but  they  are  now  seldom  seen.  Such  pro- 
bably may  soon  be  the  fact  in  relation  to  geese  and  some  other 
birds. 

The  town  or  city  of  Galveston  contains  a  population  little, 
if  at  all,  less  than  three  thousand,  when  four  years  since 
nought  was  seen  on  its  site  but  one  unbroken  beach  and  soli- 
tary strand.  It  now  contains  a  great  number  of  stores,  six 
hotels,  one  Presbyterian  church,  two  schools,  one  exclusively 
for  females,  and  many  valuable  buildings  in  progress.  The 
harbor  is  constantly  dotted  with  numerous  vessels  of  all  sizes, 
and  the  flags  of  many  nations.  Several  steam  packet  ships 
ply  regularly  between  it  and  New  Orleans,  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  steam  boats  take  their  departure  hence  for  Houston, 
the  Trinity,  Sabine,  San  Jacinto,  the  Brazos,  etc.  The  auc- 
tions, warehouses,  streets,  and  custom  house,  exhibit  clear 
marks  of  active  business.  Judging  from  the  past,  we  may 
expect  soon  to  see  this  infant  city  become  a  large  and  popu- 
lous mart,  in  which  the  products  of  all  nations  will  be  found 
seeking  consumers. 

As  drawbacks,  however,  upon  these  pleasing  prospects,  it 
should  be  mentioned,  that  once  at  least  this  town  has  been 
already  visited  with  that  fearful  malady  the  yellow  fever,  and 
once  a  portion  of  the  island  was  inundated  by  water,  in  con- 
sequence of  a  powerful  tornado  that  forced  the  waters  of  the 
bay  far  over  the  surface  of  the  land.  The  former  of  these 
evils,  however,  was  confined  to  a  very  small  part  of  the  then 
small  city,  which,  being  without  police,  had  no  power  to  pre- 
vent the  formation  of  a  nuisance,  to  which  the  disease  was 
attributed ;  and  the  other,  though  causing  much  alarm,  was 
productive  of  little  if  any  injury. 

3 


26  SAN    JACINTO    CLASSIC    GROUND. 

Perhaps  among  the  regions  of  the  south,  no  spot  can  be 
found  better  fitted  for  a  delightful  summer  residence.  Sur- 
rounded by  the  waters  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  the  unchecked 
breezes  of  its  broad  surface  shed  their  bland  coolness  over 
every  part  of  the  island,  and  entirely  assuage  the  intensity  of 
the  otherwise  oppressive  heat  of  a  southern  atmosphere. 
Thus  free  from  the  rigors  of  northern  cold,  and  enjoying  a 
constantly  refreshing  breeze  that  removes  the  effects  of  the 
sun,  it  enjoys  a  climate  of  an  enviable  character.  Without  a 
single  local  cause  for  disease  which  cannot  easily  be  removed, 
and  in  the  midst  of  many  advantages,  this  entrance  into  Texas 
gives  to  the  emigrant  pleasing  promise  of  the  interior,  when 
its  border  furnishes  so  much  to  please. 

From  Galveston  the  course  of  most  emigrants  is  by  steam 
boat  up  Galveston  Bay,  northward  to  the  river  San  Jacinto. 
This,  though  a  comparatively  small  stream,  will  be  ever  here- 
after memorable  for  the  defeat  and  capture  on  its  banks  of  the 
Mexican  army,  under  the  command  of  Santa  Anna,  on  the  21st 
day  of  April,  1836,  by  which  the  war  of  Texian  independence 
was  virtually  ended,  and  the  liberty,  religious  and  civil,  of  her 
people  secured. 

Viewed  in  this  connection,  well  may  the  waters  of  this  river 
be  regarded  as  not  only  classic,  but  sacred  to  freedom,  and 
the  memory  of  the  brave  men  who  here,  against  superior 
numbers,  conquered  their  armies,  made  prisoner  of  the  chief 
magistrate  of  Mexico,  and  planted  deep  the  pillars  of  their 
own  national  liberty.  On  this  stream  well  may  the  men  about 
to  make  Texas  their  country,  pause  and  ask,  what  is  the 
value  of  that  sacred  boon,  deliverance  from  popish  bigotry 
and  Mexican  tyranny,  which  was  here  purchased  by  the  zeal 
and  heroism  of  the  little  band  who,  with  the  cry  of  Fannin 
and  the  Alamo,  rushed  upon  victory,  and  gave  a  name  to  the 
river  imperishable  as  the  principles  of  liberty  which  their 
valor  secured.  Ever  verdant  be  the  plain  where  freemen 
conquered ; — ever  dear  the  spot  sacred  to  the  glory  of  the 
new-born  republic 


CITY    OF    HOUSTON.  27 

Some  distance  up  this  river  appears  the  mouth  of  its  princi- 
pal tributary,  called  the  Buffalo  Bayou,  a  small  and  narrow 
stream  with  considerable  depth  of  water  and  elevated  banks. 
Still  narrow  as  the  stream  is,  so  much  so,  as  to  render  the 
passage  of  two  steam  boats  past  each  other  somewhat  difficult, 
it  continues  navigable  like  a  canal,  with  high  banks,  some 
distance  into  the  country.  At  the  extreme  head  of  this  nav- 
igation stands  the  city  of  Houston,  so  called  in  honor  of  the 
Honorable  Samuel  Houston,  commander  of  the  Texian  forces 
at  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto.  This  was  the  late  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  the  republic,  but  the  Congress  of  1838-9  appointed 
commissioners  to  designate  a  new  site  for  the  Capital  of  the 
country,  who,  after  some  enquiry,  selected  Austin,  at  the  lower 
falls  of  the  Colorado,  to  which  point  the  heads  of  departments 
removed  in  the  latter  part  of  the  year  1839. 

Next  to  Galveston,  Houston  is  probably  the  largest  town  in 
the  republic,  and,  with  the  like  exception,  enjoys  the  greatest 
amount  of  commerce.  Through  the  Buffalo  Bayou  it  has  a 
direct  water  communication  with  Galveston  and  New  Orleans, 
and  hence  affords  a  very  convenient  market,  not  only  to  its 
immediate  vicinity,  but  also  to  many  of  the  fertile  settlements 
along  the  banks  of  the  Brazos  and  Colorado.  Here  vast  num- 
bers of  emigrants  almost  daily  arrive,  and  pass  onward  in 
various  directions  to  the  points  of  their  several  destinations ; 
bearing  with  them  full  often  wealth,  taste,  refinement,  litera- 
ture, and  occasionally,  an  ardent  and  devoted  piety,  which  it 
is  hoped  may  like  true  leaven  diffuse  a  sweet  and  healing 
influence  all  around  it. 

Houston  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Harris,  and 
here  are  its  court  house  and  jail.  It  contains,  according  to  the 
latest  accounts,  somewhat  more  than  two  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, has  two  schools,  one  presbyterian  church,  two  printing 
offices,  one  daily  paper,  and  two  weekly  ones.  Here,  also,  are 
six  hotels  and  numerous  mercantile  establishments.  A  com- 
pany has  been  formed  and  chartered  to  make  a  rail  road  from 


28  APPEARANCE    OF    THE    COUNTRY, 

this  place  to  some  point  on  the  Brazos  river,  and  preparations 
are  in  progress  for  carrying  the  project  into  execution.  It  is 
proposed  in  a  short  time  to  establish  a  line  of  stages  from  this 
city  to  Austin,  and  the  carriages  and  horses  requisite  are 
already  in  the  republic. 

It  is  situated  upon  a  plain  considerably  elevated  above  the 
Bayou,  but  on  or  below  the  level  of  the  surrounding  prairie. 
The  buildings  are  sparsely  scattered  over  a  considerable  extent 
of  ground,  which  gives  them  much  advantage  in  relation  to 
yards  and  gardens.  A  number  of  the  houses,  though  mostly 
wood,  are  well  built,  and  give  pleasing  evidence  of  the  taste 
and  comfort  of  the  proprietors. 

The  country  westward  of  Houston  for  some  thirty  miles  or 
more,  is  a  level  prairie,  with  scarcely  a  sufficient  inclination  to 
carry  off  the  water  of  the  rains  that  fall  upon  it.  The  soil  is 
a  thin  mould  of  dark  earth  resting  upon  a  base  of  light  colored 
clay,  which  can  scarcely  be  of  much  value  except  for  grazing 
purposes,  as  is  further  evinced  by  the  presence  and  pillars  of 
the  crawfish.  This  prairie  is,  however,  interspersed  with 
occasional  wood  lands  and  streams,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
are  found  considerable  tracts  of  fertile  and  valuable  land. 
These  latter  portions  might  be  appropriated  to  the  plough, 
while  the  wet  lands  could  be  allowed  to  remain  a  common, 
open  to  all  who  should  choose  to  use  it  for  purposes  of  pasture, 
the  grass  being  exuberant  and  very  fine.  Between  this  place 
and  the  Bay  there  is  a  considerable  amount  of  good  land,  and 
a  large  quantity  of  valuable  pine  timber,  but  which  will  prob- 
ably soon  disappear  before  the  busy  axe  of  the  white  man. 

In  passing  from  Houston  into  the  interior,  two  distinct 
routes  are  open  to  the  traveller,  one  by  the  way  of  San  Felippe, 
and  the  other  by  the  way  of  Washington  and  Independence, 
both  towards  Rutersville,  Bastrop,  and  Austin.  In  order  more 
clearly  to  understand  particulars  respecting  the  country,  several 
extracts  from  a  journal  kept  upon  a  journey  on  the  latter  routa 
are  here  inserted. 


BEAUTY    OF    THE    ROLLING    COUNTRY.  29 


EXTRACTS  FROM  A  JOURNAL. 


CHAPTER   II. 

Enter  upon  the  undulating  country. — Desirable  situations  for  family  resi- 
dences.— Flocks  of  deer  seen  feeding  and  sporting  on  the  prairies.— A 
settler's  views  of  the  country. — Vegetables,  fruits,  nuts,  etc. — Rapid  mul- 
tiplication of  stock. — The  country  increases  in  beauty. — A  family  of  emi- 
grants.—Indian  depredations.— Reflections.— Productiveness  of  the  bot- 
tom lands. — "Wild  rye.  —  Singing  of  birds.— Lovely  May  weather  in 
January. — A  hunter  and  his  dogs — Wild  cat. — Lady  travelling  unattend- 
ed.— Brazos  river. — Town  of  Washington. — Texian  cotton. — Soil  easily 
cultivated.— Great  liberality.— Pet  fawn. — Heavy  forests. — Seven  plan- 
tations at  one  view. — Religious  privileges. — Schools. — Temperance  so- 
ciety.— Great  productiveness  of  the  soil,  stock,  etc. 

"January  1st,  1840.  Having  obtained  such  rest  and  refresh- 
ment as  the  place  afforded,  we  started  forward  at  about  nine  in 
the  morning.  After  travelling  a  few  miles,  a  change  in  the 
character  of  the  country  became  pleasingly  evident,  Instead 
of  the  flat  and  unvaried  surface  of  the  former  days,  we  found 
ourselves  upon  a  rolling  or  undulating  country,  with  pleasing 
interchange  of  hill  and  valley,  prairie  and  woodland.  From 
the  beauty  of  the  elevations,  the  gentleness  of  the  slopes,  and 
the  fertility  of  the  grounds,  we  regarded  many  spots  as  being 
exceedingly  eligible  for  location  and  family  residences,  nor 
could  we  forbear  to  anticipate,  that  at  no  distant  day  these  will 
be  occupied  by  a  dense  and  active  population.  Among  other 
pleasing  views  of  the  day,  we  saw  flocks  of  deer  feeding 
quietly  or  sporting  gaily  among  the  prairies.  From  their 


30  PRODUCTIVENESS    OF    THE    SOIL. 

numbers  it  would  seem  as  though  they  enjoyed  here  an  un- 
disturbed residence,  but  their  flesh  appeared  so  often  upon  the 
tables  of  our  hosts,  as  proved  that  their  harmlessness  afforded 
them,  even  here,  no  protection.  Herds  of  cattle  in  fine  order, 
appeared  here  and  there,  feeding  leisurely  among  the  woods 
or  plains,  and  in  one  place  a  flock  of  sheep,  the  first  we  had 
•witnessed  in  Texas. 

"  At  night  we  put  up  with  a  planter  from  Tennessee,  a  gen- 
tleman of  intelligence  and  plain  manners.  He  had  resided 
in  that  place  but  about  ten  months.  His  circumstances  ap- 
peared to  be  quite  comfortable.  He  stated  that  the  country 
possessed  abundant  advantages,  that  farmers  particularly 
have  every  inducement  to  emigrate,  the  soil  producing  bounti- 
fully every  essential  cultivated  in  the  United  States,  with  not 
exceeding  one  third  of  the  labor  there  required.  He  par- 
ticularised, as  crops  which  he  had  himself  noticed,  rye,  oats, 
Indian  corn,  buckwheat,  onions,  etc.,  all  of  which,  he  stated, 
succeeded  exceedingly  well,  surpassing  in  general  the  best 
products  of  the  same  kind  in  Tennessee  ;  the  article  of  sweet 
potatoes  he  had  known  to  grow  almost  beyond  belief,  a  single 
one  often  weighing  eight  pounds.  Among  fruits  not  known  in 
the  states,  he  described  as  common  in  Texas  what  he  styled 
the  bush  plum,  resembling  in  color  and  general  appearance 
the  cherry,  though  much  larger.  Peaches  are  produced  here 
in  great  perfection,  being  equal  to  the  very  best  found  in  the 
United  States.  Apples  have  been  to  some  extent  tried  and 
have  succeeded.  Wheat  also  has  been  successfully  cultivated, 
so  that  it  is  no  longer  problematical  whether  that  most  delicious 
of  all  grains  can  be  produced  here,  still  it  may  likely  succeed 
better  in  more  northern  sections  of  the  country.  All  the  va- 
rieties of  the  walnut  found  in  the  United  States  abound  here, 
and  in  addition  to  them  the  peccan*  which  is  a  very  delicate 
variety  of  the  hickory  nut.  With  occasional  exceptions,  the 

*  The  peccan  is  found  also  in  several  parts  of  the  Uuited  States. 


INCREASE    OF    DOMESTIC    ANIMALS.  31 

nuts  and  acorns  of  the  forest  furnish  sufficient  food  for  ex- 
tensive herds  of  swine  which  range  at  large  and  fatten  with- 
out expense  to  the  owners.  All  the  feeding  they  require  will 
be  to  keep  them  tame  and  attached  to  their  home.  Cattle  of  all 
kinds,  he  continued,  increase  with  astonishing  rapidity,  needing 
neither  shelter  nor  other  expense  to  the  owners.  Ten  months 
since,  said  my  landlord,  I  had  but  two  hogs,  the  increase  from 
which  at  this  time  amounts  to  forty  head,  which  is  but  a  fair 
view  of  the  multiplication  of  that  kind  of  stock.  Domestic 
fowls  are  equally  prolific,  continuing  to  lay  eggs  throughout 
the  whole  winter. 

"  Whole  herds  of  cattle,  consisting  of  many  hundreds,  be- 
longing to  the  settlers,  branded  and  registered  according  to  law 
may  be  seen  feeding  on  the  luxuriant  grass  of  the  extensive 
and  beautiful  prairies  of  this  country. 

"  January  2d.  The  country  passed  over  this  day  surpasses 
in  beauty  even  that  noticed  yesterday.  The  rolling  country 
appears  now  fully  before  us,  affording  views  and  prospects 
which  are  truly  delightful — eminence  succeeding  eminence, 
till  the  low  and  flat  prairie  country  has  entirely  disappeared. 
The  extended  landscape  furnishes  such  a  view  as  toayankee 
would  seem  the  perfection  of  beauty  in  hill  and  dale,  and  ex- 
cited in  us  a  propensity  to  possess  some  portion  of  a  land  des- 
tined, at  some  future  day,  to  rival  in  wealth  and  beauty  the 
fairest  portions  of  the  world.  In  richness  and  fertility  some  of 
the  elevated  prairies  this  day  passed  over,  exceeded  any  thing 
that  we  had  before  witnessed  in  this  or  any  other  country. 
The  soil  seemed  composed  of  a  black  and  friable  loam  of  great 
depth  and  strength,  fitted  at  once  for  producing  abundant  crops 
and  for  long  continued  fertility.  Possessing  all  the  advantages 
of  a  rich  bottom,  with  the  warmth  and  dryness  of  uplands, 
they  combine  excellencies  of  soil  seldom  found  in  any  part  of 
the  United  States. 

"  Put  up  for  the  night  with  a  family  just  about  to  remove  to 
a  neighboring  plantation,  and  give  place  to  a  purchaser  who 


32  INDIAN    DEPREDATION. 

had  lately  emigrated  from  the  state  of  Mississippi,  with  his 
family  of  twelve  persons.  With  these  he  had  travelled  by 
land  about  seven  hundred  miles,  four  hundred  of  which  were 
in  Texas.  He  stated  that,  in  that  distance,  since  entering  the 
republic,  he  had  not  passed  over  five  miles  at  any  time,  too 
poor  in  soil  to  warrant  a  farmer  in  cultivating  it  for  profit. 
The  lady  about  to  remove,  in  conversation,  mentioned  that 
since  coming  to  Texas  this  was  her  second  removal ;  in  the 
first,  about  three  years  since,  she  found  her  house  surrounded 
by  a  party  of  hostile  Indians.  With  a  part  of  her  family  she 
fled,  and  providentially  made  her  escape.  Two  men  however 
of  the  household,  while  in  defence  of  the  fugitives,  were 
butchered,  and  their  bodies  afterwards  found  near  the  house. 
The  lady  never  returned  to  reside  at  the  place  of  death,  but 
took  up  her  residence  at  the  farm  she  was  now  leaving  in 
peace. 

Such  circumstances  may  in  part  explain  why  the  set- 
tlers in  such  a  country,  have  been  slow  in  making  extensive 
improvements  in  their  houses,  orchards  and  gardens.  Scarce 
able  to  defend  themselves  and  families  from  the  murderous 
savage,  they  had  little  leisure  or  inclination  for  the  indulgence 
of  taste  and  luxury.  But  now  it  is  believed  such  scenes  are 
for  ever  at  an  end.  No  more,  in  most  parts  of  Texas,  "  shall 
the  war  whoop  awake  the  sleep  of  the  cradle."  Now,  in  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  prairies,  the  deep  jungle  of  the  forest, 
of  the  bottoms  of  the  rivers,  or  rambling  among  the  loftiest 
hills,  no  apprehension  need  be  felt  for  the  loneliest  traveller, 
much  less  for  the  wife  and  little  ones  around  the  domestic 
hearth.  Now  may  the  settler  find  a  time,  not  only  to  sow 
his  field  and  collect  together  the  numerous  herds  of  his  cattle, 
but  may  also  plant  his  pride  of  China,  his  evergreen  vine,  and 
cultivate  his  vineyard,  and  in  peace  enjoy  the  bounties  of  his 
bending  orchard.  Soon,  very  soon,  it  is  believed,  that  the 
gardens  and  fruiteries  of  Texas  will  rival  the  finest  of  like 
ornaments,  not  only  in  the  new,  but  the  older  states.  With 


HUNTER    AND    WILD    CAT.  33 

a  soil  and  climate  admirably  fitted  for  such  purposes,  nothing 
is  wanting  but  a  very  little  exertion  to  render  her  shrubberies 
and  grounds  the  pride  of  the  western  continent." 

"  January  3d. — Leave  at  eight  in  the  morning  for  the  town 
of  Washington,  situated  on  the  Brazos  river,  a  distance  of 
about  ten  miles,  and  passed  through  a  piece  of  low  flat  wood- 
land of  several  miles  in  extent,  called  the  Brazos  bottoms, 
which  in  fertility  and  productiveness  is  not  exceeded  by  any 
lands  in  the  world.  Some  of  these,  or  like  lands,  have,  it  is 
asserted  by  men  of  unquestioned  veracity,  produced  four  thou- 
sand pounds  of  seed  cotton  upon  one  acre  for  a  single  crop. 
In  passing  through  some  of  the  less  lofty  timber  of  these  bot- 
toms, we  were  struck  with  the  perfect  freshness  and  green- 
ness of  the  grass,  which  wore  more  the  appearance  of  flowering 
spring  than  of  the  rigors  of  mid  winter. 

"  On  enquiry,  we  learned  with  some  surprise,  that  what  we 
regarded  as  grass  is  in  fact  a  native  indigenous  rye,  which 
springs  up  late  in  the  autumn,  continues  entirely  green  and 
succulent  during  the  winter,  and  in  spring  shoots  up  to  seed 
and  dies  like  the  cultivated  crops  of  that  grain.  Some  indi- 
viduals have  gathered  portions  of  the  seed,  and  find  it  to  be 
really  and  truly  rye,  as  clearly  as  is  that  cultivated  by  the  far- 
mers in  the  states.  Where  this  is  found  in  abundance,  it 
affords  a  pasture  equal  to  the  finest  summer  pastures  of  New- 
England.  It  seems  likely,  however,  soon  to  be  so  severely 
grazed  upon,  as  to  prevent  it  from  successful  seeding,  and 
hence  may  soon  cease  to  be  valuable. 

"  In  this  woodland  the  birds  were  singing  with  all  the  viva- 
city and  sweetness  of  spring,  the  weather  was  mild  as  a 
northern  May  or  June,  and  woodpeckers,  of  which  there  were 
many  varieties,  were  heard  in  every  direction.  In  our  pro- 
gress through  these  bottoms  we  met  a  hunter,  accompanied 
by  five  or  six  stout  and  fierce-looking  dogs,  carrying  slung 
upon  the  barrel  of  his  rifle  the  skin  of  a  large  wild  cat  which 
he  had  shot,  and  the  carcase  of  which  the  dogs  had  just  de- 


34  TOWK    OF    WASHINGTON. 

voured  as  their  share  of  the  game.  On  our  admiring  the  size 
of  the  skin,  and  the  delicate  softness  of  its  fur,  he  very  kindly 
offered  to  present  it  to  us,  which  we  gratefully  accepted. 

"  At  the  distance  of  several  miles  from  any  visible  human 
habitation,  we  met  a  lady  on  horseback,  with  an  infant  in  her 
arms,  attended  only  by  a  servant  girl  on  foot  and  a  little  dog. 
She  was  riding  leisurely  along  with  an  air  of  perfect  security, 
courteously  nodded  to  us,  as  we  passed,  and  went  on.  So 
little  apprehension  of  danger  is  felt  here,  either  from  Indians, 
Mexicans,  or  from  the  rudeness  of  the  dwellers  in  these 
new  regions. 

"  This  day  we  crossed  the  Brazos  river  at  Washington,  which 
stream  is  here  about  fifty  yards  wide,  with  a  sluggish  current 
of  about  two  miles  per  hour.  The  water  is  at  present  low, 
but  when  at  its  height  the  current  becomes  rapid,  being  equal 
to  six  or  seven  miles  per  hour.  At  such  times  the  water  is 
exceedingly  turbid,  and  strongly  tinged  with  red,  like  the  Red 
river  ^Louisiana,  whence  many  have  inferred  that  the  names 
of  this  and  the  Colorado  rivers,  have  by  some  mistake,  been 
changed.  The  name  of  this  river  Rio  Brazos  de  dios  signi- 
fies the  river  of  the  arm  of  God — the  Colorado  signifies  the 
Colored  or  Red  river. 

"  The  town  of  Washington  is  the  seat  of  Justice  for  Wash- 
ington county,  and  pleasantly  situated  near  the  west  bank  of 
the  Brazos,  about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  the  sea 
coast,  and  seventy-five  miles  from  Houston.  It  contains  a 
population,  including  the  residents  of  its  immediate  vicinity, 
of  about  six  hundred  inhabitants.  Hero  they  have  a  very 
respectable  academic  school,  under  the  direction  of  a  well 
qualified  and  able  teacher. 

"Spent  the  night  very  pleasantly  at  the  house  of  a  respectable 
planter,  lately  removed  to  this  country  from  the  state  of  Mis- 
sissippi. He  has  resided  on  this  farm  about  one  year,  for 
which,  when  entirely  unimproved,  he  paid  two  dollars  per  acre. 
He  has  now  about  seventy  acres  under  cultivation,  a  corn 


PET    FAWN,  35 

mill  wrought  by  four  horses  which  yields  a  daily  profit  of 
ten  dollars.  His  cotton  gin  is  nearly  completed,  and  the  press 
for  the  same  entirely  ready  for  business.  He  planted  the  last 
season  about  twenty  acres  in  cotton,  the  quality  of  which  upon 
examination  appeared  equal  to  any  we  had  ever  seen.  He 
considers  the  cotton  lands  superior  to  any  in  Mississippi  or 
Florida,  and  equal  probably  to  any  in  the  world.  Two  thousand 
pounds  to  the  acre  he  regards  as  an  ordinary  crop,  which  may 
be  obtained  with  much  less  labor  than  is  usually  bestowed  upon 
like  quantities  of  land  elsewhere,  one  hand  being  able  to  attend 
to  a  crop  of  fifteen  acres.  For  other  crops  he  regards  the  land 
as  equally  favorable.  As  a  specimen  of  the  productiveness  of 
the  soil,  and  the  feelings  of  the  people  towards  new  settlers, 
he  stated  that  a  planter  no  great  distance  from  himself,  from  a 
field  of  five  hundred  acres  of  corn,  has  now  about  fifteen 
thousand  bushels  to  sell,  for  which  there  is  a  great  demand  to 
supply  the  wants  of  the  floods  of  emigrants.  This  planter 
instead  of  demanding  cash,  and  the  highest  price  for  this  grain, 
proffers  to  all  the  settlers  who  have  not  had  time  to  make  their 
own  crops,  to  loan  to  them  corn  for  their  family  purposes,  to 
be  paid  when  they  should  be  able  to  do  so  from  the  produce 
of  their  own  fields.  Such  generous  liberality  and  kindness 
well  deserves  to  be  recorded,  not  only  as  a  testimonial  of  the 
worth  of  an  individual,  but  as  an  example  worthy  of  imi- 
tation by  all  who  desire  to  be  regarded  as  patriots  or  friends  of 
humanity. 

"January  4.  While  at  breakfast  with  the  family  of  our  hos- 
pitable landlord,  I  was  gratified  and  surprised  to  see  enter  the 
door  and  approach  the  table  a  beautiful  female  deer,  having  a 
small  bell  suspended  at  her  neck.  With  perfect  familiarity  she 
received  her  breakfast  of  corn  bread,  and  departed  to  seek  its 
wonted  pastime  in  the  woods  and  prairies.  The  landlady  re- 
marked that  it  thus  came  every  morning  and  disappeared  till 
the  morning  following. 

"  This  day's  journey  lay  for  a  considerable  distance  through 


36  TOWN    OF    INDEPENDENCE. 

heavy  forests,  found  for  the  most  part  in  the  valleys  or  bottoms 
of  the  streams  which  intersect  the  country.  From  these  we 
would  again  emerge,  and  by  gentle  ascents  climb  the  summits 
of  the  rolling  prairies,  the  elevation  of  some  of  which  must 
be  very  considerably  higher  than  the  waters  of  the  ocean. 

"  The  views  from  the  highest  of  these  is,  in  some  cases, 
exceedingly  beautiful  and  picturesque.  In  every  direction  ap- 
pear the  rounded  tops  of  the  undulating  prairies,  dotted  here 
and  there  with  the  verdure  of  a  branching  and  aged  live  oak 
with  its  brilliant  foliage,  while  occasionally  appears  a  level 
plain  unmarked  by  aught  but  the  wild  deer  and  cattle  that  crop 
its  still  green  herbage.  Skirting  these,  with  ever-varying  lines, 
may  be  traced  the  hill  and  valley  woodlands,  the  latter  marking, 
by  their  indented  borders,  the  courses  of  the  streams  to  whose 
banks  they  furnish  fringed  edges.  So  soft,  so  gentle  are  all 
the  changes,  and  so  marked  with  verdure  and  fertility,  that 
every  variation  gives  new  delight  as  awakening  fresh  scenes 
for  human  happiness  and  comfort. 

"From  one  of  those  elevations  we  could  at  once  see  seven 
plantations  newly  formed,  proving  the  rapidity  and  success 
with  which  population  is  increasing.  From  the  same  point 
the  whole  horizon  seemed  bounded  by  mountains  that  inter- 
cepted the  view  before  the  eye  could  find  the  level  of  the 
ocean,  but  what  seemed  mountains,  proved,  upon  further  inves- 
tigation, to  be  merely  a  succession  of  gentle  hills  like  those 
around  us,  and  like  them  fitted  to  delight  the  eye  of  the  tra- 
veller, or  yield  abundance  to  the  labors  of  the  husbandman. 

"About  fifteen  miles  in  a  westwardly  direction  stands  the 
little  but  interesting  town  of  Independence.  It  contains  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  inhabitants,  two  respectable 
schools,  one  for  males  and  the  other  for  females,  which  appear 
to  be  well  sustained  and  under  the  direction  of  excellent  in- 
structors. One  of  the  school  houses  is  used  also  as  a  place 
of  worship,  and  occupied  alternately  by  baptists,  methodists, 
and  presbyterians.  Here,  including  a  number  from  the  sur- 


A    MISSIONARY    AND    HIS    FAMILY.  3? 

rounding  settlements,  is  a  temperance  society  embracing  about 
sixty  members.  * 

"  In  every  direction  from  the  town  the  country  is  thickly 
settled  with  industrious  and  intelligent  farmers,  who,  while  in- 
tent upon  the  labors  of  the  field,  are  not  unmindful  of  the  edu- 
cation of  their  children,  and  the  privileges  and  duties  of  the 
church  of  Christ.  Here  resides  the  Rev.  Hugh  Wilson,  of 
the  presbyterian  church,  a  missionary,  and  missionary  agent  of 
the  General  Assembly's  Board  of  Missions,  a  man  well  fitted 
to  exercise  a  happy  and  diffusive  influence  in  a  new  and  rapidly 
settling  country.  Here,  perhaps  as  fully  as  any  where  in  the 
republic,  are  at  present  enjoyed  the  privileges  of  the  religion 
of  the  gospel  and  of  good  education. 

"  Mr.  Wilson  has  resided  in  this  place  something  more  than 
one  year,  and  clearly  expresses  his  opinion,  that  for  exuberance 
of  soil,  mildness  and  amenity  of  climate,  and  healthfullness  of 
the  country  in  general,  Texas  possesses  advantages  equal  to 
any  country  in  the  world,  and  superior  to  any  part  of  the 
United  States  which  he  had  seen.  In  his  opinion,  a  good  and 
competent  living  may  be  here  more  easily  obtained,  and  pro- 
perty more  readily  acquired  by  industry,  than  in  any  section 
of  the  western  country  whatever.  In  illustration  of  these 
opinions,  he  said,  that  swine,  and  all  the  varieties  of  cattle, 
grow  upon  the  hands  of  the  farmer  without  care  or  effort ; 
that  the  milk  and  butter  here  made  are  excelled  by  none  in  the 
world.  Poultry,  which  furnish  so  many  of  the  finest  delicacies 
of  the  table,  frequently  increase]  a  hundred  fold  in  a  single 
season.  Mrs.  W.  assured  the  writer,  that  one  parent  hen. 
would  rear  one  hundred  chickens  in  a  year,  and  that  she  her- 
self had  had  that  increase  in  herj  own  poultry  yard  the  last 
season.  She  further  remarked,  that  chickens  hatched  in  the 
spring  would  produce  their  own  broods  in  the  Autumn.  In 
short,  the  domestic  fowls  continue  to  lay  their  eggs  and  pro- 
duce their  young  the  whole  of  the  year. 

"  Similar  testimonies  of  the  rapid  and  unexampled  multiplt- 

4 


38  SINGING    OF    BIRDS    IN    WINTER. 

cation  of  domestic  animals,  and  the  little  care  and  expense  of 
rearing  them,  were  received  from  many  persons  of  the  highest 
respectability,  and  were  wholly  uncontradicted.  Taking  these 
statements  as  true,  and  uniting  with  them  the  fact  that  the  soil 
is  productive  beyond  the  ordinary  fertility  of  good  lands  in 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  conclusion  is  irresistible, 
that  for  farming  purposes  Texas  affords  greater  facilities  than 
can  be  found  in  the  very  best  parts  of  the  whole  United  States. 

"Jan.  5.  The  sun  arose  this  morning  with  a  light  and  warmth 
resembling  some  of  the  finest  weather  in  May  in  the  city  of 
New  York.  We  breakfasted  with  our  kind  and  hospitable  host 
with  the  doors  wide  open.  The  air  was  balmy  and  soft,  and  no 
disposition  was  felt  to  approach  a  fire  more  than  in  midsummer. 
As  if  to  complete  the  image  of  Spring,  a  blue  bird,  "  that  sweet 
harbinger  of  Spring,"  at  the  north,  was  heard  just  by,  carolling 
its  sweet  song  with  all  that  enthusiasm  and  vivacity  which 
renders  it  so  great  a  favorite.  Notwithstanding  this  deli- 
cious softness,  which  frequently  occurs  in  winter,  the  heats  of 
summer  are  so  mitigated  by  the  almost  unremitted  breezes,  as 
to  be  less  oppressive  than  they  frequently  are  at  New  York 
and  Philadelphia.  A  clergyman,  (the  Rev.  W.  Y.  Allen,  of 
Houston,)  who  spent  two  summers  in  Princeton,  New  Jersey, 
declares,  that  in  Princeton  and  Philadelphia  he  often  suffer- 
ed more,  especially  in  the  night,  from  the  heat,  than  he  has 
ever  done  in  Texas. 

"  In  some  parts  of  this  day's  journey,  we  observed  landscape 
views  more  beautiful  and  enchanting,  if  possible,  than  any  we 
had  yet  seen.  The  country  and  scenery  were  evidently, 
though  by  almost  imperceptible  shades,  improving,  as  we  ad- 
vanced into  its  interior.  Many  of  the  views  actually  surpass- 
ing the  most  splendid  scenery  we  had  ever  observed  from  some 
of  the  more  commanding  heights  upon  the  Hudson  river.  To 
compare  them  with  those  formerly  described  would  be  difficult, 
and  yet  upon  the  mind  there  rests  an  image  of  extent  and 


PREPARATIONS    FOR    THE    SABBATH.  39 

mellowness  somewhat  richer  and  more  pleasing,  which  can  be 
far  better  imagined  than  expressed. 

"  Near  sunset  arrived  at  the  residence  of  one  of  the  oldest 
settlers  in  Texas.  Soon  after  our  arrival,  it  being  Saturday 
night,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Wilson  before  named,  accompanied  by  an- 
other clergyman,  also  arrived,  in  order  to  preach  the  day  fol- 
lowing in  a  neighboring  school  house.  It  is  pleasant  to  observe 
that  Christians  in  the  United  States  are  not  forgetful  of  these 
dwellers  in  the  wilderness,  but  send  to  them,  by  the  hands  of 
faithful  men,  the  precious  words  of  eternal  life.  Though  no 
deep-toned  bell  called  together  the  solemn  assembly,  yet  even 
here  the  solemnity  of  the  sabbath  could  awe  the  heart,  and 
call  from  their  rustic  dwellings  these  tenants  of  the  wild,  and 
bid  them  remember  the  Lord. 


40  A    SABBATH    IN    TEXAS. 


CHAPTER   III. 

Regard  for  the  Sabbath. — Preaching  in  a  settlement. — An  eccentric  indi- 
vidual.— Indian  anecdotes. —  Causes  of  enrr.ity  to  the  Indians. — Abun- 
dance of  game. — Utility  of  dogs  in  Texas. — Sufferings  of  the  settlers 
during  the  war  of  independence. — Travellers  seeking  settlements. — A 
waggoner's  opinion  of  Texas. — No  Mosquitoes  in  the  upper  country. — 
Preparing  for  conflict  with  Indians. — A  border  family. — Indian  Massa- 
cre.—Pursuit  and  destruction  of  several  Indians. — Hard  lodging. — Town 
of  Rutersville — Its  academies  and  prospects. — Town  of  La  Grange. 
— Rich  pastures. — Fat  cattle. — Butter  and  cheese  staple  commodities  of 
Texas.— Wild  Turkeys. 

"  JAN.  6th.  Sabbath.  The  family  with  whom  we  spend  this 
day,  appear  to  pay  as  much  respect  to  its  sacred  authority,  as 
do  most  families  in  the  slate  of  Connecticut,  or  other  parts  of 
New  England.  The  blessing  of  God  was  invoked  upon  their 
rooming  repast,  the  children  were  all  neatly  clad  in  their  holi- 
day garments,  and  the  little  girls,  of  which  there  were  several, 
were  all  dressed  for  the  sabbath  school.  At  the  usual  hour 
we  all,  ten  or  twelve  in  number,  attended  by  the  two  clergymen 
before  named,  proceeded  to  the  place  of  worship.  The  con- 
gregation was  considerable,  filling  up  the  academy  where 
they  met.  The  attention  was  serious  and  respectful,  and  all  was 
as  orderly  and  decorous  as  in  the  best  regulated  religious 
communities.  The  sermon  was  able,  solemn,  and  well  adapt- 
ed to  the  hearers,  such  as  would  be  respectable  in  a  more  ad- 
vanced state  of  society. 

"  In  the  afternoon  we  visited  an  eccentrick  individual,  who, 
with  no  other  associates  than  his  dog  and  chickens,  lives  in 
his  cabin  alone  in  the  border  of  the  forest,  only  visiting  occa- 
sionally the  grounds  of  the  person  at  whose  house  we  were 


REVOLUTIONARY  ANECDOTES.  41 

staying.  He  is  an  aged  Frenchman,  who  has  been  many 
years  in  the  country,  and  has  formerly  been  a  soldief  of  Texas: 
In  giving  some  reminiscences  of  his  life  in  the  early  settlement 
of  the  country, he  related  several  anecdotes  of  Indian  character 
and  Indian  warfare.  Unlike  many  modern  writers  who  delight 
to  paint  Indian  character  in  fair  colors,  he  spoke  of  them  and 
of  the  Mexicans  in  terms  of  strong  dislike  and  disgust.  In 
many  instances,  he  said,  the  greatest  troubles  with  which  the 
Texian  army  had  to  contend,  were  the  depredations  and  rob- 
beries practised  by  the  Indians  who  were  professedly  friendly. 
These  were  constantly  lurking  about  the  camps  and  stealing 
every  thing  of  value  within  their  reach. 

"Among  other  instances,  he  mentioned  that  once  being  left  in 
charge  of  the  camp  equipage,  while  his  messmates  were  abroad 
on  duty,  he  left  his  place  for  a  few  moments  to  procure  water 
from  the  river  Guadalupe,  which  was  just  at  hand.  While 
here,  he  caught  a  glimpse  of  an  Indian  gliding  swiftly  through 
the  thickets  towards  the  river  above  him,  with  a  blanket  he  had 
just  stolen  from  the  camp.  He  immediately  fired  upon  the 
savage  with  a  rifle,  but  without  effect,  as  the  Indian  pressed 
on  into  the  stream.  By  the  time  he  could  seize  another  gun, 
and  be  ready  to  fire,  the  red  man  had  nearly  attained  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river  with  his  booty.  He  again  fired,  and  it  would 
seem  with  better  aim,  for  the  thief  sunk  and  was  seen  no  more, 
while  the  stolen  blanket  was  observed  floating  down  the  cur- 
rent. 

"  How  the  narrator's  mind  was  afFected  by  such  events,  did 
not  appear  otherwise  than  by  an  apparent  perfect  indifference. 

"At  another  time,  he  said,  an  Indian  was  shot  at  night,  while 
crouching  at  a  corn  crib  attempting  to  steal  the  grain.  In  the 
morning  it  was  found  to  be  a  woman,  who  by  the  shot  had 
both  her  knees  broken,  and  had  died  of  the  wounds.  This 
incident  must  certainly  awaken  regret,  as  there  is  too  much 
reason  to  conclude,  that  the  unhappy  woman  was  induced  to 

4* 


42  AN  OLD  SETTLER'S  OPINION   OF  TEXAS. 

the  act  by  the  cravings  of  hunger,  or  perhaps  by  the  cries  of 
her  starving  children. 

"  In  another  place,  while  the  troops  were  encamped  at  night, 
and  their  horses  tied  on  the  prairie  to  feed  upon  the  grass,  a 
dark  object  was  seen  to  approach  one  of  the  animals.  On 
being  fired  upon  the  figure  disappeared.  In  the  morning  a 
trace  of  blood  was  followed  some  distance  to  a  hollow,  where 
a  wounded  savage  lay.  On  being  interrogated  why  he  at- 
tempted to  steal  the  horse,  he  remained  silent,  in  either  haughty 
sullenness  or  else  in  despair.  An  officer  present  then  presented 
his  rifle,  and  asked  him  where  he  would  be  shot,  he  opened 
his  bosom,  pointed  to  the  centre  of  his  breast,  and  was  imme- 
diately pierced  by  a  ball  at  the  place  indicated.  A  rope  was 
then  attached  to  his  legs,  by  which  the  body  was  dragged  some 
distance  and  hung  upon  a  tree,  as  a  warning  to  other  Indian 
depredators,  where  it  remained  for  several  months,  and  until 
eaten  up  piecemeal  by  the  wolves  and  vultures. 

"  If  such  severities  towards  the  natives  seem  to  partake  of 
too  much  cruelty,  some  palliation  for  it  may  be  found  in  facts 
like  the  following,  related  by  the  same  recluse  and  lonely  man. 
It  was  my  lot,  said  he,  for  some  time  to  reside  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  two  families  from  Kentucky,  by  the  name  of 
Dougherty,  nearly  related  by  marriage,  and  living  very  near 
together.  These  were  attacked  at  night  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
and  all  put  to  death.  The  houses,  and,  as  was  supposed,  all 
the  deceased  were  burned  up;  but  some  months  afterwards  a 
young  man  to  whom  one  of  the  murdered  ladies  was  about 
to  be  married,  discovered  the  remains  of  his  affianced  bride  in 
a  thicket,  knowing  her  by  the  mark  of  her  name  upon  her 
corset,  which  yet  remained  distinct.  Probably  after  being 
mortally  wounded  she  hid  herself  in  this  place,  and  there 
awaited  her  end.  Were  this  young  man  to  feel  the  strong 
risings  of  indignation  towards  the  murderers  of  his  beloved, 
and  return  upon  them  some  part  of  the  pangs  they  inflicted, 
would  not  charity  at  least  palliate  the  crime  ? 


USE    OF    DOGS    IN    TEXAS.  43 

"Jan.  7th.  Our  host  has  resided  17  years  in  Texas,  and 
having  been  long  engaged  in  surveying  lands  and  in  cultivating 
the  soil,  is  perhaps  as  well  qualified  to  judge  of  the  relative 
advantages  and  prospects  of  the  country  as  any  man  in  it.  He 
conceives  that  Texas  furnishes  greater  facilities  for  the  labour- 
er than  any  other  country  in  the  world.  Every  thing  neces- 
sary to  the  convenience  and  even  comforts  of  life  can  be  ob- 
tained with  less  effort  and  difficulty  than  elsewhere.  His 
house  and  plantation  both  indicate  that  he  is  well  aware  of 
the  advantages  of  his  situation,  the  former  being  one  of  the 
best  houses  we  have  noticed  in  the  country. 

"  This  section  of  the  republic  forms  a  part  of  what  was 
originally  Austin's  colony,  most  of  which  is  described  as 
being  fertile  and  pleasant,  as  any  section  of  the  United  States 
or  Mexico.  While  it  produces,  whenever  cultivated,  abun- 
dance of  grain,  cotton  or  sugar,  the  woods  and  prairies  abound 
with  game  of  every  description,  from  the  smallest  to  the  lar- 
gest kind,  except  the  buffalo  (bison,)  which  seems  in  flying 
from  the  face  of  the  white  man  to  have  deserted  this  section 
of  country.  Accompanied  by  his  five  large  dogs,  our  host 
stated  he  could  at  almost  any  time  bring  home  a  bear,  a  deer 
or  two,  or  other  valuable  game. 

"  Packs  of  large  and  powerful  dogs  are  kept  by  most  of  the 
planters,  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  repelling  or  destroying 
such  wolves  and  other  beasts  of  prey  as  would  injure  their 
stock.  Though  for  these  purposes  they  are  certainly  useful 
and  desirable,  they  were  formerly  in  all  probability  more  ne- 
cessary still  to  keep  in  check  the  approach  of  the  silent  and 
wily  savage,  who  would  otherwise  enter  the  hamlets  of  the 
sleepers  by  surprise,  and  perpetrate  many  more  deeds  of  blood. 
These  vigilant  guardians  of  their  master's  homes,  have  prob- 
ably been  one  of  the  most  efficient  means,  of  keeping  at  a 
distance  from  the  houses  of  the  settlers  the  murderous  hordes 
of  Indians,  that  could  be  devised,  for  seldom  indeed  will  the 
red  man  risk  the  effect  of  the  waking  white  man's  shot  by 


44        SUFFERINGS  OF  THE  EARLY  SETTLERS. 

night  or  day.  Now,  however,  it  is  hoped  that  this  use  of 
canine  guards  will  no  more  be  necessary.  The  sleepers  in 
the  farthest  hut  upon  the  prairie,  as  far  west  at  least  as  Austin, 
may  rest  secure  from  any  sounds  more  fearful  than  the  varied 
cries  of  the  wt>lves  that  roam  in  search  of  food,  but  which 
always  keep  at  a  respectful  distance  from  where  they  hear  the 
watch  dog's  note  of  defiance. 

"  The  sufferings  of  the  early  settlers  from  the  incursions  of 
the  Indians,  while  under  the  government  of  Mexico,  and  dur- 
ing the  war  of  independence,  from  the  merciless  and  savage 
ferocity  of  the  Mexicans,  were  greater  than  people  at  a  dis- 
tance can  well  imagine.  In  the  winter  of  1835-6,  the  coun- 
try was  invaded  by  an  army  of  Mexicans,  under  the  command 
of  Santa  Anna,  the  President  of  Mexico,  in  person.  The  pro- 
gress of  this  army  was  marked  by  every  atrocity  which 
characterises  a  civil  war  among  barbarians.  Prisoners,  to 
whom  terms  of  surrender  had  been  granted,  were  murdered 
by  hundreds  in  cold  blood.  No  age,  sex,  condition  or  charac- 
ter has  any  protection  from  the  violence  of  such  foes.  As 
they  advanced  to  the  Colorado,  the  Texian  army  under  Gen. 
Houston  retreated  towards  the  Brazos,  and  the  inhabitants,  in 
accordance  with  the  advice  of  the  commanding  general,  left 
their  homes  with  all  they  possessed,  except  a  few  articles 
which  they  could  carry  with  them,  and  fled  eastward,  literally 
"  not  knowing  whither  they  went,"  or  at  what  point  it  would 
be  safe  to  leave  their  helpless  and  destitute  families. 

"  At  this  time  the  sufferings  of  the  Texian  women  and 
children  were  intense ;  fleeing  towards  the  lower  country,  over 
a  territory  much  of  which  was  yet  unsettled,  without  a  cover- 
ing from  the  storm,  and  without  even  the  prospect  of  obtaining 
the  most  common  necessaries  of  life,  in  an  inclement  season, 
and  pursued  by  worse  than  even  savage  foes,  they  suffered 
many  of  the  terrors  of  famine,  cold,  nakedness,  and  fear  united. 
To  fly  exposed  them  to  want  and  the  most  bitter  privations,  to 
stay  was  to  endure  insult,  pollution  and  death.  Yet  many 


FARMERS    SEEKING    LOCATIONS    IN    TEXAS.  45 

would-be-christians  and  philanthropists  in  the  United  States 
and  Great  Britain,  could  look  upon  this  scene  with  indifference, 
•while  they  represented  the  violation  and  butcheries  of  these 
Mexican  hordes,  as  only  the  just  punishment  inflicted  upon 
incendiaries  and  traitors, 

"  From  the  statements  of  eye  witnesses,  including  the  Rev. 
Hugh  Wilson,  it  appears  that  some  months  after  "  the  flight," 
as  this  season  was  appropriately  called,,  large  amounts  of  mu- 
tilated books,  and  broken  valuables,  were  seen  scattered  along 
the  roads  taken  by  these  fugitives,  either  dropped  by  the  flying 
families  or  thrown  away  by  the  plundering  Mexicans.  It  would 
be  impossible,  said  the  same  Rev.  gentleman,  to  picture  the 
wretchedness  and  distress  of  the  whole  people  from  this  time, 
till  the  truly  glorious  battle  of  San  Jacinto  terminated  the  con- 
flict, and  enabled  the  wandering  fugitives  to  return  to  their 
plundered  and  deserted  homes. 

"  While  stopping  for  refreshment  at  the  house  of  a  planter^ 
five  travellers  rode  up,  and  enquired  the  price  of  land  in  that 
neighborhood.  Our  host  informed  them  that  there  was  but 
little  there  for  sale.  All  that  part  of  the  country  was  in  pri- 
vate hands,  and  very  few  if  any  exhibited  a  disposition  to  part 
with  what  they  had.  From  all  that  passed  it  appeared  that  the 
price  of  land  is  slowly  but  steadily  rising,  and  that  in  a  few 
years  Texian  lands  will  be  prized  as  highly  as  those  of  any 
other  country.  These  horsemen  appeared  to  be  substantial 
farmers,  probably  from  some  part  of  the  Western  States,  who 
are  seeking  for  positions  in  which  to  spend  their  days,  or  for 
the  establishment  of  their  children.  Similar  companies  are  now 
almost  daily  met,  traversing  the  country,  in  its  length  and 
breadth,  searching  out  choice  locations  either  for  themselves 
or  their  friends,  being  almost  universally  delighted  with  the 
country  and  its  prospects.  What  renders  this  conclusion 
nearly  certain  is,  that  many  of  the  choicest  sons  of  Tennessee, 
and  other  southwestern  states,  have  already  settled  with  their 
families  in  the  country,  and  that  additional  multitudes  from  the 


46  PREPARATIONS    FOR    A    FIGHT. 

same  quarters,  are  constantly  arriving  who  have  similar  objects 
in  view. 

"  Jan.  8th.  This  day,  as  usual,  passed  through  a  country 
interspersed  with  woodlands  and  elevated  prairie.  Numerous 
flocks  of  birds  were  frequently  flying  up  before  us,  and  the 
meadow  larks  sung  sweetly  to  us  on  either  hand. 

"  Overtook  a  teamster  driving  a  four-horse  wagon,  with  a 
load ;  weighing  twenty-five  hundred  pounds,  bound  for  the 
city  of  Austin.  He  had  been  about  twelve  months  in  Texas, 
and  though  by  birth  a  Virginian,  he  had  resided  a  long  time 
in  Missouri.  From  conversation  with  him,  to  obtain  informa- 
tion, it  appeared  that  he  thought  Texas  far  preferable  to  Mis- 
souri for  farming  purposes,  that  he  enjoyed  better  health,  and 
added  that  here  he  was  not  tormented  to  death  by  musquitoes. 
Being  asked  if  he  had  not  found  that  insect  troublesome  dur- 
ing the  last  summer,  he  replied  that  he  had  not  seen  a  dozen 
since  coming  to  the  country.  In  answer  to  a  question,  as  he 
resided  upon  an  elevated  prairie,  whether  he  did  not  find  the 
heat  of  the  sun  insufferable  in  an  unclouded  summer  day,  he 
said  that  so  far  from  the  sunshine  being  more  oppressive  than 
in  Missouri  or  Virginia,  it  is  a  great  deal  less  so,  from  the 
prevalence  of  the  winds  during  the  day,  which  rendered  living 
in  the  open  prairies  quite  agreeable. 

"As  the  sun  was  about  to  set,  we  were  apprised  of  being  in 
the  neighborhood  of  company  by  startling  and  sharp  cracks 
of  rifles  at  no  great  distance.  For  a  short  time  we  were 
unable  to  determine  from  whence  the  sounds  came,  but  on 
passing  a  projecting  point  of  the  forest,  we  found  ourselves 
close  upon  an  unfinished  house.  At  a  little  distance  in  the 
woods  stood  two  young  men,  loading  their  rifles,  to  make  fur- 
ther trial  of  their  skill  in  the  use  of  that  deadly  weapon. 
One  of  these  was  a  small  man  and  apparently  quite  young, 
the  other  remarkably  large,  athletic  and  powerful.  Their  ap- 
pearance was  sufficiently  rustic  for  every  forest  or  hunting  pur- 
pose, and  their  language  and  conversation  smacked  strongly  of 


A    BORDER    FAMILY.  47 

the  spirit  of  border  fighting  and  hatred  to  the  Indians.  They 
had  learned  but  a  few  hours  before,  from  a  traveller,  that 
Indians  had  been  seen  further  up  the  country,  (whether  friendly 
or  not  they  seemed  not  disposed  to  enquire)  and  hence  they 
were  thus  preparing  for  such  emergencies  as  they  supposed 
might  likely  transpire. 

"  Having  obtained  permission  to  put  up  with  them  for  the 
night,  and  been  ushered  into  the  only  habitable  apartment  in 
the  house,  we  discovered  that  the  inmates  consisted  of  the 
elder  of  these  young  men  and  his  wife  ;  the  young  man,  his 
mother  and  three  other  younger  children.  All  these  resided  in 
the  same  little  apartment,  which  constituted  their  parlor,  bed- 
room and  kitchen. 

"  Soon  after  we  were  seated,  the  elder  young  man  joked  his 
wife  about  her  fear  of  the  savages,  asking  if  she  would  not 
dream  of  Indians  for  the  whole  night.  Her  answer  was  low 
and  indistinct,  but  appeared  to  imply  quite  as  much  fear  of 
him  as  any  thing  else.  In  answer  to  a  suggestion  that  the 
Indians  mentioned  by  the  traveller  might  be  a  company  of 
friendly  Indians,  and  not  disposed  to  do  mischief,  the  young 
husband  with  a  mingled  frown,  sneer  and  angry  laugh,  an- 
swered, "  friendly  !  Yes,  they  will  all  be  friendly  enough  if 
once  they  come  in  the  range  of  my  rifle."  This  remark  was 
received  by  the  junior  members  of  the  family,  with  a  laugh  of 
pleasure.  It  required  but  little  penetration  to  discover,  that 
our  hosts  were  accustomed  to  the  vicissitudes  attendant  upon 
settlers  in  the  borders  of  the  haunts  of  savages,  and  that  to 
them  sporting  and  the  killing  of  Indians  were  merely  synony- 
mous terms. 

"A  large  wood  fire,  the  only  light  to  bo  obtained,  threw  its 
imperfect  glare  upon  the  countenances  of  the  circle,  and  pro- 
duced an  appearance  of  ghastliness,  which  was  any  thirty  but 
pleasant.  This,  added  to  the  evident  roughness  and  reckless- 
ness of  character  exhibited  in  the  husband,  rendered  our  abode 
here  less  desirable  than  some  other  places  we  hav»-  seen  else- 


48  A    TALE    OF    BLOOD. 

where.  Soon,  however,  the  bacon  was  fried,  the  hominy  pre- 
pared, and  supper,  consisting  of  little  more  than  these,  an- 
nounced. The  elder  lady  then  directed  her  little  girl  to  hold 
up  the  lighted  pine  knot  over  the  table,  and  by  this  light  we 
partook  of  our  simple  but  abundant  repast. 

"  Alluding  to  what  had  before  been  said,  our  hostess, 
whose  thin  and  pale  countenance,  her  shining  and  unsteady 
dark  eyes,  grizzled  and  dishevelled  hair,  rendered  her  appear- 
ance almost  haggard,  remarked  with  great  bitterness,  "  I  am 
afraid  these  cursed  Indians,  will  never  give  me  peace  more.  I 
was  in  hopes  I  had  heard  the  last  of  them.  My  family  has 
been  butchered,  and  I  have  been  driven  about  by  them  till  my 
soul  is  sick  of  life.". 

"  Being  asked  if  her  family  had  suffered  much  from  the 
savages,  she  replied,  (turning  her  wild  and  piercing  eyes  upon 
me,)  "  Have  they  !  Yes,  all  my  family  have  been  murdered 
by  them,  except  these  children.  That  boy,"  pointing  to  the 
younger  of  the  men  we  found  practising  with  their  rifles, 
"  had  three  balls  planted  within  an  inch  of  his  life.  One  of 
my  sons,  my  two  sisters,  and  my  old  father  and  mother  were 
all  cutto  pieces  on  new  year's  night  a  year  ago,  (January  1st, 
1839." 

"  After  supper,  from  conversations  with  the  family,  chiefly 
from  a  lad  of  about  twelve  years  old,  we  obtained  a  narrative  of 
the  facts  alluded  to,  of  which  the  following  is  the  substance. 
The  parents  of  the  old  lady  at  the  close  of  the  year  1838, 
resided  near  the  falls  of  the  Brazos.  On  the  night  of  the 
following  New  Year's  day,  her  father,  mother,  two  sisters  and 
two  sons,  with  a  young  lady  from  a  neighboring  settlement,  who 
was  on  a  visit  to  the  family,  were  sitting  before  a  large  fire 
round  the  table,  listening  to  the  eldest  son  who  was  reading  to 
the  company  from  a  song  book  ;  when  a  sudden  rush  was 
made  upon  the  door  by  a  party  of  Indians.  The  youth  who 
was  reading  was  immediately  shot  through  the  head,  the 
young  lady  who  sat  next  to  him  was  cut  through  the  skull 


CAUSES    OF    HATRED    TO    THE    INDIANS.  49 

with  a  tomahawk,  and  the  rest  of  the  family  cut  to  pieces  in 
an  instant.  The  younger  brother,  who  has  been  frequently 
mentioned,  sprang  through  the  midst  of  the  enemy,  gained  the 
door  and  fled,  quickly  followed  by  a  number  of  bullets,  none  of 
which,  however,  took  effect  upon  his  person,  though  three 
pierced  his  clothing. 

"  He  escaped  with  all  speed  to  the  nearest  settlement, 
about  six  miles,  giving  notice  of  the  attack,  and  especially 
informing  the  father  of  the  young  lady  of  the  murder  of  his 
daughter.  A  party  of  ten  or  a  dozen  men,  of  whom  the  esca- 
ped young  man  was  one,  immediately  formed  to  pursue  the 
murderers.  Without  an  hour's  delay  they  started,  and  fol- 
lowed the  enemy  most  of  the  night.  At  length  they  lost  the 
trail,  and  were  reluctantly  returning  to  their  homes  in  despair 
of  meeting  and  chastising  these  midnight  assassins.  Sud- 
denly, however,  they  came  upon  their  foes  near  the  house  of 
one  of  their  own  number.  Here  an  immediate  and  terrible 
onset  was  made  upon  the  savages,  which  resulted  in  the 
death  of  several  Indians  and  one  white  man,  the  remnant  of 
the  red  men  escaping  only  by  the  rapidity  of  their  flight. 

"  Such  are  some  of  the  events  with  which  many  of  the 
new  settlers  have  been  compelled  to  become  familiar ;  and 
such  scenes  of  violence  and  cruelty  have  produced  in  many 
of  the  people  that  feeling  of  hatred  towards  the  Indians,  that 
would  induce  them  without  scruple,  at  every  oppprtunity,  to 
put  them  to  death.  Still,  it  ought  not  to  be  imagined,  that  this 
indiscriminate  hostility  to  the  natives  is  universal  ;  it  is  pro- 
bably confined  to  such  of  the  border  settlers,  as  have  been  the 
more  immediate  and  bitter  sufferers  by  the  depredations  of 
these  sons  of  the  forest. 

"  In  due  time  after  supper  we  were  shown  to  our  lodging 
in  an  outer  apartment,  only  partially  covered  by  a  roof,  and 
that  part  far  from  being  water  proof.  Our  bed  consisted  of  a 
quilt  spread  upon  the  floor,  and  our  covering  of  another  we 
brought  with  us.  The  upper  parts  of  the  room  were  occupied 

5 


50  TOWN    OF    RUTERSVILLE. 

by  the  poultry,  whose  frequent  noises,  and  the  dripping  of 
the  rain  which  now  began  to  fall  upon  us,  as  well  as  the  house, 
rendered  sleep  a  difficult  though  a  desirable  business. 

"  January  8th.  Arose  with  the  first  dawn  of  morning,  and 
hastened  forward  to  Rutersville,  so  called  in  honor  of  the  Rev. 
Martin  Ruter,  D.  D.,  the  pioneer  and  first  general  agent  of 
methodist  missions  in  Texas.  He  died  on  the  field  of  his 
labors,  and  left  the  work  to  be  completed  by  others,  which  he 
had  already  auspiciously  commenced.  There  appears  a  pe- 
culiar appropriateness  in  the  name  of  this  town,  when  it  is 
remembered  that  it  is  intended  to  be  consecrated  specially  to 
literature  and  religion,  and  that  from  it  all  gambling,  and  the 
sale  of  spirituous  liquors,  are  strictly  excluded. 

"  Arriving  at  Rutersville  near  noon,  we  soon  perceived  that 
its  location  on  the  summit  of  one  of  the  most  elevated  prairies 
of  the  republic,  was  admirably  fitted  to  secure  the  health  of 
the  inhabitants,  as  well  as  furnish  delightsome  views  of  the 
surrounding  country,  which,  to  the  eye  of  the  curious,  might 
be  said  to  resemble,  by  its  varied  appearances  of  live  oak  and 
post  oak  groves  upon  the  heights  and  cedar  forests  along  the 
valleys,  mingled  with  frequent  prairies,  the  scenery  of  a  taste- 
fully and  thoroughly  cultivated  country  of  the  old  world.  The 
town  is  yet  small,  having  been  designated  for  the  purpose  but 
little  more  than  a  single  year.  Already  two  edifices  have 
been  erected  as  seminaries  of  learning.  These,  however,  are 
intended  as  a  mere  beginning  or  foundation  of  a  future  college, 
and  extended  female  institutions  of  learning. 

"  The  Rev.  C.  Richardson  and  lady,  late  of  Tuscumbia, 
Alabama,  both  of  whom  sustain  high  reputations  as  te  ^ers, 
are  already  engaged  in  their  several  departments  of  instruction. 

'"  Situated  at  a  distance  from  navigable  waters,  or  extended 
water  power,  the  place  seems  not  especially  adapted  to  com- 
mercial enterprise,  but  well  fitted  for  retired  literary  and  sci- 
entific pursuits.  The  methodists,  Cumberland  presbyterians, 


RICH    PASTURES.  51 

and  baptists,  have  frequent,  if  not  regular  seasons  of  preaching, 
and  it  is  believed  that  churches  of  each  of  these  denomina- 
tions exist  here. 

"  Situated  forty  miles  from  Bastrop,  arid  but  five  miles  from 
the  Colorado  river,  it  is  near  the  centre,  east  and  west,  of  the 
republic.  The  high  moral  and  religious  tone  of  the  commu- 
nity, the  excellent  measures  taken  to  preserve  the  purity  of 
public  morals,  and  prevent  evil  influences  upon  the  young, 
together  with  the  spirited  exertions  of  the  friends  of  learning 
and  education,  seem  well  calculated  to  secure  for  it  the  con- 
fidence of  those  who  would  select  a  residence,  with  special 
reference  to  the  education  of  their  children. 

"  Arrived  at  evening  at  the  little  town  of  La  Grange,  near 
the  banks  of  the  Colorado,  and  put  up  at  the  inn,  with  the 
best  accommodations  we  had  found  on  the  road.  Nearly  op- 
posite this  place,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  is  another 
small  town  called  Colorado  City.  In  neither  of  them  however 
is  found  any  thing  remarkable. 

"  Jan.  9th.  Proceeding  at  an  early  hour  on  our  way,  we 
passed  for  some  distance  through  a  dense  forest.  From  this 
we  sometime  before  noon  entered  upon  a  beautiful  bottom 
prairie,  embracing  some  thousands  of  acres.  Scattered  over 
its  surface  at  various  points  were  seen  herds  of  cattle  and 
horses  feeding  leisurely  upon  its  but  partially  discolored  her- 
bage, and  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Some 
parts  of  this  natural  low  meadow  appeared  to  be  equal  in 
richness  to  any  we  had  ever  witnessed,  and  in  the  various 
copses  of  woodland  which  skirted  it  in  different  places,  the 
cattle  were  lying  at  their  ease,  lazily  chewing  their  cuds, 
or  luxuriating  in  the  long  grass  or  wild  rye.  From  every  ap- 
pearance, many  of  them  were  fitted  by  their  fatness  to  make 
excellent  beef.* 

*  Subsequent  enquiries  fully  justified  this  conclusion,  as  all  the  beef  sold 
at  the  market  in  Austin  was  of  similar  cattle,  which  had  not  been  fed  with 
grain. 


52  TEXAS    THE    CHESHIRE    OF    AMERICA, 

"  With  her  unnumbered  thousands  of  acres  of  such  lands, 
equally  productive  in  pasture  and  grain,  in  cotton  or  sugar,  why 
may  not  Texas  shortly  become  a  store  house  of  provisions  and 
raw  materials  for  the  world  ?  In  all  that  pertains  to  the  dairy 
she  may  outvie  a  Cheshire  in  England,  or  Goshen  in  New 
York,  for  over  them  she  possesses  several  important  advan- 
tages. No  deep  snows  or  keen  frosts  of  winter,  shut  up  the 
earth  or  destroy  its  herbage,  so  that  it  yields  no  winter's  nu- 
triment, nor  do  cattle  in  the  coldest  storms  require  other  shel- 
ter than  is  furnished  by  a  protecting  forest,  and  which  again 
affords  protecting  shade  in  the  heats  of  summer.  Let  but  the 
hand  of  industry,  enterprise  and  skill  which  marks  the  conduct 
of  the  northern  farmer,  here  be  put  forth,  and  soon  shall  Texas 
smile  at  once  the  granary  and  the  Montpelier  of  the  Western 
world. 

"  As  we  journeyed  forward  a  flock  of  wild  turkeys  crossed 
the  road  a  few  rods  before  us,  manifesting  very  little  alarm, 
barely  by  their  short  note  expressing  their  suspicion  of  us  as, 
\ntruders. 


MEET    TRAVELLERS    FROM    NEW  YORK.  53 


CHAPTER   IV. 

Meet  travellers  from  New  York. — A  negro's  opinion  of  farming  in  Texas. — 
Rough  country. — Town  of  Bastrop. — Discovery  of  the  bones  of  a  mam- 
moth animal  in  its  neighborhood. — Flourishing  plantation. — Indian  anec- 
dotes.— Female  courage. — Cedar  forests. — Difficulty  in  crossing  a  creek. 
•^-Natural  vineyards. — Enter  Austin. — President's  house  the  first  object 
seen. — General  description  of  the  city  when  six  months  old. — Indians. — 
Their  degraded  state  — Wandering  through  the  streets  almost  in  a  state 
of  nudity  — Fall  of  water  in  the  Colorado,  suitable  for  manufacturing  pur- 
poses.— Beautiful  marble. — Building  stone. — Neighborhood  of  Austin  rer 
markable  for  its  beauty  and  fertility. — A  Linnean  garden  of  fifty  acres. — 
Austin  desirable  as  a  place  of  residence. — Its  interior  position  giving  it 
immunity  from  crimes  and  immoralities  consequent  upon  maritime  cities. 
Sabbath  in  Austin.— General  respect  for  Christian  observances,  etc, 

"ARRIVING  in  the  evening  at  a  house  on  the  edge  of  an  ex* 
tensive  prairie,  we  were  pleased  to  discover  that  the  sitting 
room  of  the  dwelling  was  already  occupied  by  travellers,  who 
had  by  some  hours  preceded  us.  It  was  a  family  consisting 
of  three  ladies,  one  infant  child,  and  a  gentleman,  all  recently 
from  the  state  of  New  York.  It  was  truly  gratifying  to  meet 
in  this  region  ladies  from  the  north ;  they  will  surely  make 
lovely  tenants  of  the  prairies,  nor  less  pleasing  ornaments  of 
the  woodlands.  How  pleasant  to  meet  here  the  smile  of 
female  welcome,  instead  of  the  bloody  knife  of  the  savage, 
The  gentleman,  it  appeared  had  previously  visited  the  country, 
and  rinding  a  place  to  his  taste,  was  now  bringing  his  family 
to  Bastrop,  a  town  on  the  Colorado,  intending  it  for  their  per* 
manent  home. 

"  The  proprietor  of  the  house  and  plantation  where  we  lodged 
was  absent,  but  his  lady,  and  she  by  her  intelligence,  modesty 


54 

and  good  sense,  merited  the  title,  used  every  exertion  to  make 
our  night's  sojourn  agreeable.  In  answer  to  the  enquiry  how 
she  liked  Texas,  she  said  very  much.  She  had  resided  in 
the  country  something  more  than  a  year,  and  all  the  plans  and 
enterprises  they  had  adopted  were  prospering  beyond  their 
most  sanguine  expectations.  Every  necessary  for  family  use 
could  easily  be  obtained  in  abundance,  and  many  luxuries 
were  already  beginning  to  be  enjoyed.  Among  the  latter,  an 
epicure  might  have  named  the  article  of  bear's  meat,  which 
some  think  no  uncommon  delicacy,  the  skin  of  a  large  one, 
killed  but  a  day  or  two  previous,  then  hanging  on  the  outside 
of  the  house. 

"  Willing  to  gain  information  from  every  source,  we  enquired 
of  a  negro  man,  one  of  the  plantation  hands,  how  he  was 
pleased  with  this  country,  he  replied,  "  O  a  heap  better  as 
Alabama,  Sir,  where  we  come  from.  This  country  make  easy 
work  for  farmer.  Every  thing  grows  here  'out  much  trouble." 

"  Jan.  10th.  Proceeded  on  our  journey,  accompanied  by  our 
new  acquaintances,  the  gentleman  with  the  two  elder  ladies 
and  child  in  a  light  covered  waggon,  drawn  by  two  horses, 
and  the  younger  lady  on  horseback.  The  young  Miss  galloped 
off  over  the  level  plains  with  the  gaiety  and  sprightliness 
of  a  fawn,  looking  towards  her  future  home  with  all  the  buoy- 
ancy of  hope  and  expectation.  It  was  no  less  pleasing  than 
unexpected,  to  see  on  these  far  western  plains  of  Texas,  a 
young  lady,  gaily  coursing  her  steed  in  evident  security  over 
grounds  where,  but  a  short  time  since,  none  but  the  bravest  of 
the  other  sex,  and  armed  to  the  teeth,  dared  to  be  seen  abroad. 

"  A  portion  of  the  country  over  which  we  passed  this  day 
was  very  poor,  and  exhibited  a  strong  contrast  with  most  of 
what  we  had  before  noted.  The  land  was  composed,  for  much 
of  the  way,  of  either  loose  sand  or  coarse  gravel,  similar  to 
what  is  usually  found  on  the  beach  of  the  ocean  or  larger  lakes. 
The  growth  upon  it  consisted  of  yellow  pine,  a  portion  only  of 


TOWN    OF    BASTROP.  55 

which  appeared  fit  for  sawing,  and  stunted  trees  of  different 
varieties  of  the  oak,  principally  of  the  kinds  called  post  oak 
and  black  jack.  The  surface  was  cut  up  into  ridges,  between 
which  were  found  small  streams  of  water,  which  however  pro- 
bably dry  up  in  summer.  In  some  parts  of  this  region,  spite  of 
apparent  sterility  and  frequent  fires,  grape  vines  appeared  al- 
most as  frequently  as  might  be  desired  in  a  vineyard.  The 
fruit  as  represented  by  residents  of  these  natural  vineyards,  is 
often  large  and  of  high  excellence. 

"  This  new  feature  in  Texian  scenery  continued  but  for  part 
of  the  day.  Just  before  arriving  at  Eastrop  we  descended 
from  this  elevated  range  upon  a  wide  and  beautiful  prairie, 
nearly  all  of  which  has  been  enclosed  in  fences,  and  is  yield- 
ing its  rich  products  to  the  hand  of  the  husbandman.  Bastrop 
is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Bastrop,  and  situated 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Colorado  river.  It  seemed  fast 
rising  into  importance,  having  in  its  vicinity,  in  addition  to  its 
stores,  inns,  etc.,  two  steam  mills,  but  the  establishment  of 
Austin,  within  thirty  miles,  as  the  capital  of  the  republic,  drew 
from  it  many  of  its  most  enterprising  citizens,  together  with  a 
considerable  share  of  its  monied  capital.  Still,  situated  in  the 
heart  of  a  fertile  district,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  almost 
the  only  pine  timber  in  a  great  distance,  it  is  probable  it  may 
remain  a  considerable  and  respectable  town. 

"  About  two  miles  from  this  place,  in  a  prairie,  Gen.  Denys 
discovered  a  horn  and  several  bones  of  a  very  large  animal, 
supposed  to  be  now  extinct.  The  following  description  of 
them  is  in  the  words  of  a  letter  from  the  finder,  and  hence 
may  be  relied  upon  as  correct : — 

"  '  When  you  was  in  this  place  I  had  the  satisfaction  of 
shewing  you  some  specimens  of  bones,  which,  I  am  told,  are 
the  largest  that  have  as  yet  been  discovered  on  the  habitable 
globe.  I  have  had  a  number  of  travellers,  and  some  of  them 
scientific  gentlemen,  who  have  called  on  me  to  see  them  ;  and 


56  THE  BONES  OF  A  GREAT  ANIMAL. 

they  all  agree  that  they  exceed  any  thing  in  natural  history, 
or  of  the  present  day — the  large  bone  of  Kentucky  not  ex- 
cepted. 

"  The  bones  which  I  have  fortunately  procured  so  far,  are 
the  horns,  jaw-bone,  and  teeth  of  some  mammoth,  of  which 
history  gives  no  account.  The  great  Mastadon  is  said  not  to 
have  horns ;  but  I  have  nearly  a  perfect  horn,  six  and  a  half 
feet  in  length,  nine  inches  in  diameter,  or  twenty-seven  inches 
in  circumference ;  also,  part  of  a  tooth,  say  one-third  of  it, 
weighing  about  sixteen  or  eighteen  pounds,  and  about  one' 
third  of  the  lower  jaw  or  socket,  of  the  same  weight. 

"  I  still  have  hands  employed  in  excavating  the  earth,  and 
am  in  hopes  of  shewing  that  Texas,  although  young  in  the 
annals  of  history,  can  produce  the  largest  bones  that  have  yet 
been  discovered.' 

"  Whether  any  further  discoveries  have  been  made  does 
not  yet  appear  ;  but  the  horn  and  other  parts  of  the  animal 
here  named,  are  in  such  a  state  of  decay,  as  renders  it  doubt- 
ful whether  the  remainder  if  found  would  be  valuable.  Enough 
however  has  been  obtained  to  show,  that  at  some  former  period, 
animals  of  a  size  and  power  now  scarcely  to  be  conceived, 
found  in  these  fertile  regions  a  home  adapted  lo  their  wants, 
which,  as  we  presume,  yielded  full  supplies  for  their  most  eager 
appetites.  But  what  was  the  nature,  and  what  were  the  habits 
of  this  giant  dweller  of  the  prairies  ?  Though  we  cannot 
positively  decide  this  question,  it  is  at  least  highly  probable 
that  it  was  like  the  ox  or  bison,  a  graminivorous  and  pacific 
creature,  cropping  with  them  the  grass  and  shrubbery,  and 
leaving,  except  in  defence,  the  rest  of  the  quadrupeds  to  enjoy 
unmolested  their  various  propensities.  The  fact  of  its  having 
horns  like  the  ox,  and  the  form  of  the  tooth,  seem  highly  to 
favor  the  above  supposition. 

"  At  the  close  of  the  day  arrived  at  a  large  plantation, 
where  we  discovered  a  comfortable  house,  several  large  barns 


A    FLOURISHING    PLANTATION.  57 

and  stables  filled  with  grain  and  provender,  and  put  up  for  the 
night.  Our  hostess  appeared  to  be  a  lady  of  piety,  of  the 
baptist  persuasion.  She  regretted  deeply  being  deprived  of 
her  former  religious  privileges  ;  but  consoled  herself  in  the 
hope  of  seeing  better  Vmes.  She  had  been  in  the  country 
about  two  years,  and  in  that  time  she  and  her  husband  with  a 
few  servants  have  brought  into  cultivation  an  extensive  farm, 
while  around  the  house  were  seen  a  number  of  thrifty  peach 
trees,  now  nearly  covered  with  green  leaves,  some  of  which 
\yll  probably  yield  fruit  the  present  season.  Thus,  new  as 
the  country  is,  they  are  in  the  midst  of  abundance,  and  enjoy 
every  luxury  which  so  short  a  residence  in  any  could  be  ex- 
pected to  furnish.  The  barn-yards  and  fields  about  them, 
seemed  alive  with  large  numbers  of  horses,  oxen,  cows, 
calves,  colts,  swine  and  fowls,  implying  that  their  stock  of 
these  animals  must  be  quite  large. 

"  She  said  the  Indians  had  given  them  very  little  peace  till 
within  a  short  time.  At  different  times  these  plunderers  had 
driven  away  and  destroyed  most  of  their  hogs,  cattle  and  horses, 
and  twice  had  she  been  compelled  to  flee  in  haste  from  home, 
and  suffer  in  common  with  the  neighbors,  all  the  privations 
and  hardships  of  those  whose  only  home  was  the  forest,  and 
whose  only  covering  the  clouds,  and  whose  only  dependence 
for  food  was  upon  such  grains  or  fruits  as  could  be  found  in 
the  field,  or  game  that  might  be  taken  in  the  forest.  Some- 
times, when  pressed  by  their  foes,  the  people  were  compelled 
to  wander  for  days  together,  through  marshes  and  wet  grounds 
to  avoid  danger,  while  in  want  of  the  merest  necessaries  of 
life.  A  sister  of  hers  in  particular,  she  said,  when  flying 
from  the  Indian  murderers  was  exposed  for  several  days  and 
nights  to  all  the  vicissitudes  of  the  weather,  her  feet  con- 
stantly wet,  and  her  health  in  a  delicate  condition,  yet  was  she 
so  favored  as  n.ot  even  to  take  cold  or  suffer  any  subsequent 
injury  from  it. 


58  SINGULAR    PRESERVATION. 

"  She  has  a  son-in-law,  now  living  in  sight  of  her  residence, 
of  whom  she  related  the  following.  He  had  for  some  purpose 
ventured  a  considerable  distance  from  his  house,  when  he  was 
shot  down  by  the  ever  watchful  foe  of  the  white  man,  receiving 
a  ball  in  his  neck  and  three  barbed  arrtws  in  his  hip  and  side. 
In  this  wounded  and  helpless  situation,  a  large  Indian  ap- 
proached him,  and  placing  a  foot  on  each  of  his  shoulders, 
passed  his  knife  round  his  head,  and  then  tore  off  the  scalp. 
This  was  the  last  thing  of  which  he  was  conscious  for  many 
hours,  but  when  he  awoke  found  himself  surrounded  by  hike 
friends.  He  still  lives  in  the  enjoyment  of  tolerable  health, 
though  that  part  of  his  head  from  which  the  scalp  was  remo- 
ved still  exhibits  a  very  unnatural  appearance. 

"  The  following  incident  related  by  the  same  lady,  and 
confirmed  by  several  others,  transpired  during  the  winter  of 
1838-9.  A  Mr.  C.  and  one  of  his  sons  were  engaged  in 
ploughing  near  the  house,  Mrs.  C.  in  the  garden  sowing  seeds, 
and  another  son  sitting  on  a  fence  conversing  with  two  men  on 
horseback,  when  a  party  of  Indians  appeared.  One  of  them 
shot  Mrs.  C.  in  the  neck  with  an  arrow,  she  barely  was  able 
to  get  into  the  house  where  she  expired.  The  horsemen  fled, 
Mr.  C.  and  the  son  on  the  fence  escaped  to  the  thickets  ;  the 
son  who  was  ploughing  with  his  father,  rushed  into  the  house 
where  his  mother  was  dying,  and  the  younger  children  hidden 
under  a  bed.  Here  his  body,  with  that  of  his  parent,  was 
found  pierced  through  with  a  spear,  though  it  is  presumed  that 
he  bravely  defended  her  to  the  last,  as  several  guns  were 
heard  by  the  fugitives,  and  three  of  those  in  the  house  were 
found  discharged.  Either  from  fear  of  the  arrival  of  other 
white  men,  or  from  the  effects  of  the  young  man's  fire,  the 
Indians  departed  without  disturbing  the  children  under  the  bed, 
or  searching  the  thickets  for  those  who  fled.  Had  equal  bra- 
very and  devotion  been  exhibited  by  the  father  and  the 
horsemen  named  above,  it  is  probable  that  brave  youth  might 


FEMALE    COURAGE.  59 

still  live  to  defend  a  father's  life  as  he  did  the  ashes  of  his 
mother. 

11  The  following  also  was  related  by  the  same  lady,  and 
afterwards  confirmed  to  us  by  the  mother  of  the  children  whose 
story  is  related.  A  Mr.  H.  residing  near  the  Colorado  with 
his  large  family,  had  sent  three  of  his  sons  one  morning  to 
the  forest  upon  some  errand,  when,  at  the  cry  of  a  child  that 
a  heap  of  people  were  coming,  they  looked  out  and  saw  a 
large  party  of  Camanche  Indians  on  the  prairie,  apparently  in 
conversation  with  two  laborers  belonging  to  the  family.  Mr. 
H.  directing  those  in  the  house  to  be  prepared,  took  with  him 
two  guns  and  passed  some  distance  toward  the  Indians,  whom 
he  saw  shake  hands  with  his  laborers.  Scarce  had  their  hands 
parted,  when  one  of  the  men  fell  pierced  through  with  a 
spear,  the  other  fled  for  life,  but  soon  fell,  as  an  arrow  passed 
quite  through  his  body  coming  out  at  the  breast.  A  daughter 
of  Mr.  H.  had  by  this  time  clothed  herself  in  her  brother's 
surtout  and  hat,  and  called  to  her  father  to  return  to  the  house. 
He  did  so,  and  with  the  rest  of  his  family  guarded  it  till  the 
Indians  departed,  dreading  all  the  time  lest  the  lads  sent  into 
the  forest  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  these  merciless  robbers. 

"  In  this  state  of  painful  and  anxious  uncertainty,  they  re- 
mained till  late  in  the  night,  when  a  noise  of  unusual  character 
being  heard,  the  mother  exclaimed,  they,  meaning  the  Indians, 
are  coming  again.  It  soon  however  appeared  that  it  was  the 
eldest  of  the  absent  lads,  who  had  cautiously  approached  the 
smoke-house  to  obtain  some  food  for  his  younger  brothers,  and 
ascertain  if  possible  the  fate  of  their  parents.  He  had  already 
secured  a  good  piece  of  bacon,  and  now  ascertained  the  joyful 
fact  that  all  the  family  were  alive  and  unhurt.  He  stated  that 
on  coming  out  of  the  woods  they  saw  the  Indians,  and  were 
discovered  by  them  in  turn  ;  that  they  fled  to  the  river,  swam 
across,  and  lay  hid  in  a  thicket  without  food  till  late  in  the 
night.  The  younger  brothers  complaining  much  of  hunger, 


60  FORESTS    OF    CEDAR. 

he  directed  them  to  remain  where  they  were,  while  he  would 
go  to  the  house  and  attempt  to  procure  provision.  In  the  morn- 
ing the  sorrows  of  the  family  were  assuaged,  except  for  the 
unhappy  laborers,  whose  death  they  now  deplored. 

"January  llth.  The  first  woodland  we  entered  this  day 
contained  a  large  proportion  of  red  cedar,  (Juniperus  Virgini- 
ana,)  and  extended  for  some  distance  along  the  road.  Many  of 
these  trees  were  large  and  tall,  giving  promise  to  future 
settlers  of  abundant  materials  for  building  and  durable  fences. 
Occasional  copses  and  borders  of  cedar  and  live  oak  (quercus 
sempervirens)  gave  pleasing  variety  to  the  landscape  through- 
out the  day.  The  prairies,  as  usual,  were  level,  covered 
with  long  grass  and  occasional  thickets,  composed  mostly  of 
water  dogwood,  (cornus  forida  aqualica)  with  here  and  there 
a  solitary  tree  of  the  acacia  family,  here  called  musquit. 
Population  appears  to  be  considerably  numerous,  though 
the  settlements  have  but  lately  commenced,  and  houses  ap- 
pear from  almost  every  elevation. 

At  no  great  distance  from  our  last  place  of  lodging,  we 
arrived  at  a  large  creek,  of  some  twenty  yards  in  width, 
though  the  water  was  not  deep.  Owing  to  the  soft  mud  de- 
posited in  its  bottom  by  the  late  rains,  the  passage  was  some- 
what difficult  and  tedious.  In  the  midst  of  this  water  and 
mud  our  carriage  gave  way,  the  horse  taking  the  shafts  and 
forward  wheels  with  him  up  the  opposing  bank,  while  the 
body,  baggage  and  hinder  wheels  remained  quietly  resting 
midway  of  the  stream.  With  the  aid  of  our  philosophy,  how- 
ever, and  after  several  hours  labor,  we  succeeded  in  uniting 
the  parts  of  our  broken  vehicle,  replacing  in  it  our  bag- 
gage and  getting  again  under  way,  thankful  indeed  that  it 
was  no  worse.  Fatigued  by  our  exertions  at  the  creek,  we 
put  up  at  an  early  hour,  having  travelled  but  a  short  distance. 

"  Our  host,  who  is  an  emigrant  from  Kentucky,  has  resided 
two  years  in  Texas.  His  plantation  is  fine,  and  his  prospects 
are  fair  for  success  and  opulence.  He  is  an  intelligent 


CITY    OF    AUSTIN.  61 

farmer,  and  seems  to  be  enthusiastic  in  his  admiration  of  the 
expected  blessings  about  to  fall  upon  the  new  republic.  His 
family  had  indeed  been  troubled  by  the  predatory  incursions 
of  the  Indians,  but  he  is  confident  such  disasters  can  no  more 
occur. 

"  January  12.  Our  journey  this  day  lay  over  alternating 
prairies  and  gentle  eminences,  covered  with  sparse  wood- 
lands, in  both  of  which  innumerable  grape  vines  clustered 
upon  the  shrubbery  or  lay  extended  like  the  vines  of  the 
water  melon  along  the  ground.  Many  places  indeed  appeared 
as  though  they  had  been  intended  for  vineyards.  The  char- 
acter of  the  country  for  fertility  and  beauty  fully  sustaining  a 
comparison  with  that  we  had  before  passed.  About  two  or 
three  o'clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  city  of  Austin,  the  new 
capital  of  the  republic. 

"  The  first  object  that  attracted  our  attention  was  a  white 
house,  designated  as  the  residence  of  the  President.  "  On 
that  spot,"  said  a  traveller  on  horseback  by  our  side,  pointing 
to  the  President's  house,  "  I  for  the  first  time  saw  a  buffalo. 
It  was  in  May  last,  and  he  was  feeding  in  perfect  quietness." 
It  is  situated  upon  the  top  of  a  considerably  elevated  and 
finely  rounded  hill,  in  the  front  of  which  is  an  inclined  and 
level  prairie,  while  in  its  rear  and  on  the  right  and  left  are 
clusters  of  oaks  of  different  kinds,  all  entirely  in  the  state  in 
which  they  were  placed  by  nature's  hand.  It  commands  from 
its  front  a  fine  view  of  a  considerable  and  beautiful  prairie, 
extending  to  the  Colorado  on  the  south,  on  which,  extending 
more  than  half  a  mile  from  east  to  west,  are  seen  clusters  of 
small  houses,  mostly  of  logs,  and  timbers,  either  in  heaps,  or 
just  begun  to  be  laid  as  foundations  of  future  dwellings  and 
places  of  business. 

"  On  the  right,  at  a  little  distance  from  this  house,  in  a 
beautiful  valley,  extending  at  nearly  right  angles  from  the 
river,  some  distance  towards  the  extreme  north  part  of  the 
city,  is  a  broad  and  beautiful  street,  called  Congress  Avenue, 

6 


62  BEAUTIFUL    SITUATION    OF    AUSTIN. 

passing  through  the  whole  extent  of  the  contemplated  city. 
On  this  street  are  erected  temporary  accommodations  for  the 
several  secretaries  and  heads  of  departments.  At  a  little  to 
the  westward  of  these  on  another  eminence,  and  nearly 
opposite  to  the  mansion  of  the  President,  stands  a  neat 
white  building,  at  present  occupied  by  the  two  houses  of 
congress.  Farther  south  on  the  same  street,  and  not  far  from 
the  centre,  are  found  the  hotels,  stores  and  most  densely 
built  part  of  the  town. 

At  this  time  the  population  is  estimated  at  about  one  thou- 
sand souls,  and  is  rapidly  increasing.  Some  idea  of  the 
mushroom  rapidity  of  its  growth  may  be  formed  from  the  fact, 
that  less  than  six  months  since  not  a  stone  was  laid,  or  a 
blow  struck  upon  a  piece  of  timber,  nor  even  a  tent  spread, 
where  now,  in  addition  to  the  citizens,  are  congregated  the 
two  houses  of  congress,  the  chief  officers  of  the  military  and 
naval  departments,  the  secretaries  and  attorney  general,  the 
justices  of  the  supreme  court  of  appeals,  with  their  officers, 
attorneys  and  suitors. 

"  For  beauty  of  situation,  the  city  of  Austin  and  neighbor- 
hood exhibits  at  once  delightful  variety  and  perhaps  unexam- 
pled symmetry  of  parts,  presenting  next  the  river  an  expanded 
and  beautiful  plain,  which  at  some  distance  arises  by  a  gentle 
slope,  rxcppt  where  the  elevation  is  divided  by  the  charming 
valley  through  which  extends  Congress  Avenue.  The  sum- 
mits of  these  opposing  hills  will  in  due  time  be  surmounted 
by  splendid  public  buildings,  in  which  art  and  taste  uniting 
their  powers  with  those  of  nature,  will  give  to  this  beautiful 
picture  its  completion  of  elegance.  On  the  right  and  left 
again  of  these  grounds,  places  are  already  selected  upon 
which  to  erect  temples  for  the  worship  of  the  Most  High. 
Perhaps  at  no  other  place  can  so  many  elements  of  beauty, 
salubrity  and  elegance,  in  a  new  city,  be  found  united. 

"  The  views  also,  from  both  these  elevations,  of  the  country 
for  some  distance  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Colorado,  are 


WRETCHED    STATE    OF    THE    INDIANS.  63 

such  as  would  give  delight  to  every  painter  and  lover  of  ex- 
tended landscape.  As  the  face  of  the  country  ascends  by  a 
continued  succession  of  gentle  acclivities,  each  somewhat 
higher  than  the  last,  and  most  of  their  summits  crowned  only 
with  grass,  while  their  feet  are  bordered  by  shrubbery  and 
timber,  a  great  distance  up  and  down  the  river,  and  as  well 
as  at  a  distance  from  it,  is  presented  to  view.  As  yet  these 
grounds,  affording  such  pleasing  prospective,  though  exceed- 
ingly fertile,  remain  untouched  by  the  hand  of  industry.  When 
each  of  these  slopes,  among  which  are  no  doubt  many  springs 
of  clear  water,  shall  be  studded  with  hamlets  and  covered 
with  waving  grain  or  flowing  cotton,  who  could  look  upon 
them  but  with  delighted  eye?  And  surely  such  changes 
cannot  be  far  distant,  though  now  but  one  solitary  and  aged 
settler  tenants  the  whole  visible  region. 

"  Scattered  through  the  town  we  discovered  a  considerable 
number  of  Indians,  who  seemed  to  have  visited  the  place  for 
purposes  of  trade,  as  some  of  their  horses  carried  packs  of 
buffalo  and  other  skins.  Their  dress  and  appearance  betoken- 
ed little  resembling  refinement  or  civilization  ;  boys  and  girls 
of  eight  or  ten  years  of  age  passing  about  the  streets  entirely 
in  a  state  of  nature,  or  with  a  single  rag  wrapped  about  their 
middle.  Numbers  of  the  men  seemed  to  possess  no  other 
clothing  than  a  slight  cloth  girdled  about  their  waist.  They 
were  said  to  be  Tonkewas  and  Lipans,  two  small  tribes  who 
are  generally  hostile  to  the  Camanches,  and  of  course  in  amity 
with  the  whites.  In  contests  with  the  Indians  they  seem 
to  be  regarded  with  but  little  respect  as  combatants,  but  are 
very  valuable  as  guides  and  scouts,  in  searching  for  the  trails 
and  hiding  places  of  their  foes.  The  pacific  relations  and 
small  numbers  of  these  Indians,  prevent  any  apprehension  from 
them,  and  hence  they  arrive  and  depart  at  any  of  the  towns 
and  settlements  without  awakening  fear  or  suspicion. 

"  A  mile  or  two  above  the  city  is  a  considerable  fall  in  the 
Colorado,  furnishing  to  future  enterprise  extensive  water  power 


64          ELEGANT  MARBLE,  LIMESTONE,  ETC. 

for  all  purposes,  whether  of  grinding  grain  or  other  species  of 
manufactures.  It  appears  to  be  the  opinion  of  some  that  this 
power  may  be  used  to  any  desirable  extent.  At  and  above 
these  falls  is  found  an  abundance  of  very  pure  and  valuable 
limestone,  furnishing  a  lime  which,  for  whiteness  and  strength, 
is  believed  to  be  unsurpassed.  Some  specimens  of  this  stone, 
of  which  too  there  are  extensive  masses,  were  exceedingly 
compact,  fine  grained,  and  beautifully  variegated.  From  every 
indication  it  would  seem  that  they  were  susceptible  of  a  very 
high  polish,  and  if  so  will  hereafter  be  denominated  elegant 
marble. 

"  Near  the  city  are  also  found  two  other  varieties  of  stone, 
one  of  which  is  white,  and  so  soft  when  taken  from  the  quarry, 
that  it  may  be  easily  cut  with  a  saw,  axe  or  other  tools  of  the 
carpenter,  but  which,  on  drying,  acquires  a  hardness  believed 
to  be  sufficient  for  building  purposes.  It  has  been  used  as  yet 
only  for  chimneys  and  hearths,  and  that  for  so  short  a  time 
that  its  qualities  are  not  fully  tested.  By  no  experiments  yet 
tried  has  any  carbonate  of  lime  been  detected  in  it.  The 
other  variety  seems  to  be  an  impure  limestone,  and  fitted  only 
for  rough  walls  and  foundations. 

"  The  country  in  the  rear  and  vicinity  of  Austin  is  a  beau- 
tifully undulating  region,  of  fertile  prairies,  wood-crowned 
knolls,  meandering  valleys,  enclosing  small  streams  whose 
banks  exhibit  serpentine  rows  of  cedar,  elm  and  live  oak 
timber,  mingled  with  dense  shrubbery.  Scarce  a  spot,  it  is 
believed,  can  be  found  within  some  miles  of  the  city  which 
would  not  by  its  fertility  well  reward  the  labor  of  the  agricul- 
turist. 

"  From  the  character  of  the  soil,  especially  its  marly  na- 
ture, little  doubt  exists  that  this  whole  region  will  be  found 
well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  wheat  and  all  kinds  of  grain, 
and  also  favorable  to  the  growth  of  apples,  pears,  quinces,  and 
all  the  fruits  which  succeed  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  United 


ADVANTAGES    OF    AUSTIN.  65 

States.  In  these  opinions  we  are  strengthened  by  some  few- 
experiments,  and  the  observations  of  many  men  of  intelligence 
and  observation,  who  have  turned  their  attention  to  the  sub- 
ject.* 

"  Should  the  seat  of  government  remain  permanently  fixed 
in  this  place,  which  is  now  highly  probable,  this  whole  region 
must  soon  smile  not  only  with  plenty,  but  with  whatever  can 
charm  the  eye,  or  gratify  the  palate  of  the  luxurious. 

"  The  position  of  the  city  of  Austin  is  indeed  far  in  the  in- 
terior, being  more  than  one  ^hundred  miles  from  the  nearest 
point,  now  visited  by  sloops  or  steam-boats.  This  difficulty 
will  however  probably  be  soon  obviated,  in  part  at  least,  by 
improving  the  navigation  of  the  Colorado,  and  the  construction 
of  rail  roads,  connecting  the  city  with  one  or  more  of  the 
navigable  streams  or  bays  of  the  republic.  By  uniting  the 
advantages  of  the  river  navigation  with  rail  roads,  there  is 
much  reason  to  believe  that  in  a  few  years  the  capital  of  Texas 
will  be  regarded  as  being  quite  as  accessible  as  is  now  the 
city  of  Washington. 

"  If  its  seclusion  from  the  coast  be  accompanied  with  some 
inconveniences,  it  is  productive  also  of  some  very  considera- 
ble benefits,  among  which  may  be  named  its  security  from 
invasion  by  any  maritime  nation.  No  power  it  is  presumed 
would  risk  its  forces  so  far  from  the  sea  coast,  to  destroy 
the  records  and  buildings  of  the  nation,  in  order  to  imitate 
the  maraud  of  General  Ross  in  burning  the  capital  at  Wash- 
ington. Another  advantage  of  considerable  importance  is  its 
comparative  freedom  from  being  infested  with  the  hordes  of 
drunken  sailors,  convicts  from  foreign  prisons,  and  loafers  which 


*  A  gentleman  from  one  of  the  Atlantic  States  is  now  commencing 
a  nursery  and  Linnean  garden  of  fifty  acres  in  extent,  intending  to  supply 
the  whole  region  with  the  very  best  varieties  of  trees  and  plants  to  be  found 
in  America. 

6* 


66  A    SABBATH    AT    AUSTIN. 

deluge  so  many  of  the  maritime  cities  of  the  United  States,  and 
furnish  so  much  labor  for  the  officers  of  police  and  of  criminal 
justice.  It  is  believed  by  many  judicious  observers  that  the 
stream  of  the  Colorado  can  be  rendered  navigable  for  small 
steam-boats  through  a  considerable  part  of  the  year,  and  during 
its  high  waters  it  will  even  now  admit  of  being  used  to  con- 
vey the  produce  of  the  country  to  market. 

"Jan.  12th.  Sabbath.  The  day  was  remarkably  fine,  resem- 
bling rather  a  fine  day  in  the  early  part  of  June  in  the  northern 
States  than  the  middle  of  January.  The  streets  were  nearly 
empty,  the  stores  closed,  and  the  stillness  of  all  around  proved, 
that  even  here,  the  authority  of  the  command  to  remember  the 
sabbath  day,  was  recognized.  While  we  trace  the  westward 
march  of  the  star  of  empire,  may  we  not  expect  that  with 
equal  speed  the  beams  of  the  star  of  Bethlehem  will  delight- 
fully illuminate  the  path  of  the  heralds  of  worldly  power  ?  and 
that  wherever  the  temples  of  political  power  ascend,  there  too 
will  be  found  the  gospel  to  consecrate  the  dome  and  regulate 
the  influence  of  authority  ? 

"  Attended  divine  service  in  the  Senate  Chamber.  The 
auditory  was  large  and  highly  respectable,  comprising  in  it 
most  of  the  members  of  Congress  and  heads  of  departments, 
with  their  families.  Before  sermon  a  little  son  of  Judge  B., 
Vice  President  of  the  republic,  received  baptism.  A  sermon 
was  then  preached  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Lawrence  of  New  Orleans, 
and  listened  to  with  a  solemnity  and  feeling  which  showed  that 
the  assembly  felt,  the  sacredness  of  the  occasion.  After  ser- 
mon the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper  was  administered  by 
the  Rev.  J.  F.  Crowe,  D.D.,  Vice  President  of  West  Hanover 
College  in  the  State  of  Indiana.  Nineteen  persons  united  in 
this  feast  of  love,  including  some  of  the  highest  officers  of  the 
government,  and  one  negro  servant,  whom  these  Christians 
publicly  acknowledged  in  the  brotherhood  of  Christ.  The 
whole  service  was  marked  by  such  a  degree  of  decorum,  dig- 


RAPID    ADVANCEMENT    OF    AUSTIN.  67 

nity  and  solemn  seriousness,  as  to  make  one  forget  that  he  was 
not  in  a  church  set  apart  for  religion,  and  surrounded  by  a 
thousand  associations  of  sacred  character. 

"  The  afternoon  was  appropriated  to  the  organization  of  a 
Sunday  school  society,  auxiliary  to  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
S.  S.  Union  in  the  United  States.  After  an  address  by  a 
clergyman  of  that  persuasion,  a  constitution  was  adopted  and 
a  subscription  taken  up,  amounting  to  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
nine  dollars,  when  the  meeting  adjourned  till  the  next  Lord's 
day.  At  night  another  service  took  place,  in  which  a  large 
assembly  were  solemnly  and  faithfully  addressed  by  the  Rev. 
Dr.  Crowe,  who  is  now  acting  as  a  missionary  of  the  Board  of 
Missions  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian  Church. 
His  services  seem  to  be  highly  appreciated,  and  can  scarce 
fail  to  be  eminently  useful. 

"  Here,  there  are  two  sabbath  schools,  a  primary  school  has 
also  been  lately  established  with  fair  prospects  of  success,  a 
house  intended  to  serve  as  a  Presbyterian  church  and  academy, 
is  in  progress  of  erection,  and  another  church  in  contemplation. 
Such  facts  related  of  a  town  situated  upon  the  outmost  borders 
of  civilized  population,  and  not  yet  six  months  old,  must,  to 
every  reflecting  mind,  be  as  gratifying  as  they  are  uncommon 
and  surprising. 


68  EXCURSION    ACROSS    THE    COLORADO. 


CHAPTER    V. 

Cross  the  Colorado  above  Austin  to  visit  the  highlands. — Fine  farming 
country. — Splendid  views. — Mountains  seen  in  the  distance. — See  traces 
of  the  buffalo. — Petrified  shells. — Texas  once  submerged  by  the  waters  of 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico. — Two  captive  buffalo. — Visit  an  aged  settler — His  ex- 
posed situation. — His  last  conflict  with  the  Indians. — Ilia  opinion  of  Texas 
as  a  farming  country. — A  novel  spring — Its  limpid  waters. — Beautiful 
singing  birds. — A  wolf. — Visit  to  Gen.  Burleson. — Fight  with  the  Chero- 
kees. — Texian  troops  drive  in  25,000  head  of  buffalo. — Gen.  B's.  account  of 
the  upper  country. — Texas  the  store  house  of  the  western  world. 

"JANUARY  16th.  In  company  with  Col.  G.,  one  of  the  long- 
est residents  of  the  city,  prepared  for  an  excursion  across  the 
Colorado,  for  a  few  miles  to  the  highlands,  as  they  are  inap- 
propriately called,  being  in  fact  nothing  more  than  elevated 
prairies,  the  ascents  of  which  were  but  moderately  steep,  and, 
like  their  tops,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  and 
occasional  patches  of  timber  and  underwood  ;  very  little  indeed 
being  too  steep  to  prevent  the  convenient  use  of  the  plough 
and  other  instruments  of  husbandry.  At  a  distance  they  ap- 
pear indeed  a  range  of  large  hills,  but  the  traveller  is  surprised 
on  finding  himself  upon  their  summits,  without  having  en- 
countered more  than  a  gentle  acclivity  of  a  moderate  elevation. 
Here  he  perceives  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  region,  undulating 
indeed,  but  bearing  all  the  marks  of  great  fertility  and  adapt- 
ation to  agriculture. 

<;  Though  mounted  on  good  horses,  we  found  the  fording 
places  over  the  Colorado,  to  our  unpractised  habits,  a  subject 
of  some  alarm.  The  water  in  one  place  was  so  deep  that  our 
horses'  bodies  were  half  buried  in  the  stream  ;  the  current  was 


SPLENDID    VIEWS    FROM    THE    HIGHLANDS.  69 

rapid,  and  the  footing  beneath  rough  and  uneven  in  conse- 
quence of  the  presence  of  considerable  sized  loose  rocks,  over 
which  our  horses  sometimes  stumbled.  Though  the  animals 
snorted  and  seemed  reluctant  to  venture  into  the  stream,  hav- 
ing lifted  our  feet  from  the  stirrups  nearly  upon  the  animals' 
backs,  we  soon  found  ourselves  safely  landed  on  the  other 
side.  Here  departing  from  what  appeared  to  have  been  an 
old  Indian  road,  we  took  a  mere  trail,  and  were  soon  upon  the 
woods-tufted  knolls  and  open  elevated  prairies. 

"  Having  enjoyed  for  a  short  time  a  view  on  one  side  of  the 
receding  ranges  of  continuously  rising  hills,  with  their  diver- 
sified forms,  and  on  the  other  the  course  of  the  river,  on 
whose  farther  margin  the  city  of  Austin,  like  Aladin's  palace, 
seemed  to  have  arisen  in  a  night,  we  pursued  our  course  to 
the  highest  point  of  land  which  appeared  in  view. 

"  Here  the  prospect  was  at  once  extended,  grand  and  beauti- 
ful. Up  the  Colorado,  whose  banks,  fringed  with  thick  forests, 
could  be  traced  for  some  distance,  were  seen  also  a  considerable 
range  of  literal  mountains  or  large  hills,  the  ascent  of  which  is 
in  many  places  steep,  approaching  to  precipitous.  Limestone, 
if  it  do  not  compose  the  principal  part  of  these  mountains,  is  at 
least  found  among  them  in  inexhaustible  abundance.  Other 
valuable  minerals  are  also  believed  to  exist  here,  the  presence 
and  uses  of  which,  it  belongs  to  the  future  to  unfold. 

"  Down  the  stream  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  appeared  in- 
terchangeable flats  of  even  bottom,  with  its  forests,  level  and 
elevated,  prairies  invested  with  their  fleeces  of  thick  herbage, 
and  tufts  of  woodland,  either  covering  the  summits  of  hills  or 
skirting  their  bases  like  the  border  ornaments  of  a  splendid 
dress.  In  front  and  rear  the  same  appearances  before  descri- 
bed, were  unfolded,  except  as  the  view  was  enlarged,  and  as 
greater  distance  threw  a  softness  like  a  thin  veil  of  gauze  over 
the  landscape. 

"  Nothing  we  had  ever  witnessed  of  magnificence  and  beau- 
ty, mingled  with  soft  and  pleasing  imagery,  could  compare 


70  VISIT    AN    AGED    SETTLER. 

with  what  is  here  presented.  Winter  as  it  is,  and  clouds  oc- 
casionally dimming  the  brightness  of  the  scene,  we  could  not 
but  feel  unwilling  to  quit  a  spot  presenting  to  the  eye  so  many 
things  on  which  it  gazed  with  delight. 

"  Here,  as  in  most  other  places  in  Texas,  the  whole  grounds 
we  had  passed  wore  indubitable  marks  of  great  productive- 
ness. The  various  grasses  which  cover  its  entire  surface, 
though  embrowned  by  the  frosts,  form  a  coat  like  a  thick  cov- 
ering of  fur  upon  the  skin  of  the  beaver,  and  prove  clearly  the 
fertility  of  the  soil.  The  climate  too  is  mild  and  pleasant,  such 
as  we  should  think  finely  adapted  to  mitigate  or  relieve  dis-  • 
eases  of  the  chest.  Though  it  is  now  mid  winter,  our  surtouts 
are  thrown  open,  because  uncomfortably  warm,  the  breezes  are 
bland  and  soft,  and  the  laborer  would  no  doubt  choose  to  divest 
himself  of  both  his  coat  and  vest. 

"  Traces  of  the  late  visits  of  the  buffalo  were  frequently  visi- 
ble, large  numbers  of  which  it  is  said  are  now  feeding  on  the 
prairies  at  no  great  distance.  We  picked  up  among  the  eleva- 
ted prairies  several  petrified  shells,  evidently  of  the  oyster  kind. 
How  they  should  ever  have  come  to  this  place  would  seem  a 
mystery  indeed,  unless,  as  some  suppose,  at  least,  the  southern 
half  of  Texas  was  once  covered  by  the  waters  of  the  gulf  of 
Mexico.  On  this  subject  and  several  others,  our  mind,  like 
many  others,  has  been  busied  with  multiplied  conjectures, 
which  however  we  deem  it  unnecessary  to  record. 

"  Before  returning  to  town,  we  paid  a  visit  to  an  aged  man, 
the  only  resident  we  believe  in  the  neighborhood  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  the  river.  He  showed  us  two  young  buffaloes 
about  half  grown,  which  he  had  domesticated.  Their  appear- 
ance was  sufficiently  uncouth  and  rough  to  imply  their  savage 
state.  He  has  resided  here  for  some  years  in  the  midst  of  the 
forest,  or  rather  an  elevated  prairie.  He  has  frequently  been 
exposed  to  imminent  danger  of  destruction  from  tlie  natives, 
but  has  strangely  escaped  to  the  present  time,  to  old  age  and 
future  probable  security. 


AN    INTREPID    CHARACTER.  71 

11  His  last  adventure  with  them  he  related  to  us  nearly  as 
follows.  Being  on  one  occasion,  a  few  weeks  since,  at  a 
moderate  distance  from  his  house,  with  his  rifle  as  usual  upon 
his  shoulder,  two  Indians  started  suddenly  from  a  thicket  near 
him,  and  both  fired  full  in  his  face.  One  of  the  balls  cut  the 
lower  part  of  his  cap,  and  passed  just  over  his  ear,  slightly 
grazing  his  hair.  He  in  turn  presented  his  rifle,  and  shouting 
Indians  !  Indians  !  a  common  cry  when  red  men  were  discov- 
ered, he  rushed  towards  them,  reserving  his  fire.  Seeing  him 
approach,  and  perhaps  aware  of  his  intrepid  character,  they 
turned  and  fled.  Upon  this,  taking  aim  at  the  hindmost,  he 
fired,  but  without  effect.  The  Indian  immediately  turned  with 
a  yell  of  exultation  at  his  defenceless  state,  and  advanced  upon 
him  with  his  brandished  hatchet. 

"  Now  the  white  man  in  his  turn  fled,  pursued  and  fast  gained 
upon  by  his  youthful  and  more  athletic  foe.  Feeling  his 
strength  abate,  he  merely  succeeded  in  gaining  the  summit  of 
a  hill  which  overlooked  a  field  near  his  house.  Here  he  stop- 
ped, and  beckoning  with  his  hand  as  if  he  saw  friends  near 
him,  he  gave  a  shout  to  them  to  come  on.  This  ruse  checked 
the  pursuit,  and  the  enemy  quickly  disappeared,  though  no 
white  man  heard  his  cry  or  was  near  enough  to  afford  him 
aid. 

"  Near  the  house  of  this  old  gentleman  there  is-a  fine  spring 
of  exceedingly  clear  and  cold  water,  arising  in  a  small  basin 
or  cavity  of  lime  rock.  Running  thence  but  a  few  feet,  the 
water  falls  into  another  basin  containing  an  area  of  about  half 
an  acre,  and  fifteen  or  eighteen  feet  deep.  In  this  little  pond 
are  seen  sporting  numerous  fish  of  different  kinds,  some  of 
them  of  considerable  size,  affording  pleasing  sport  to  those 
who  are  fond  of  angling.  So  perfectly  limpid  is  the  water, 
that  the  pebbles  on  the  bottom,  and  the  smallest  fish  in  its  bo- 
som, are  perfectly  visible,  and  to  the  unpractised  eye  the  water 
would  seem  scarce  more  than  four  or  five  feet  deep. 

"  In  relation  to  the  comparative  advantages  of  Texas  and 


72  FARMING    ADVANTAGES. 

other  countries,  this  aged  settler  in  common  with  every  other 
individual  who  had  spent  one  year  or  more  in  the  country, 
spoke  with  the  utmost  decision  and  confidence.  Having  been 
in  the  country  since  1828,  he  professed  to  understand  all  the 
peculiarities  and  difficulties,  as  well  as  the  advantages  of  its 
soil,  climate  and  productions.  He  estimates  the  advantages 
to  the  agriculturist  as  almost  incalculable.  The  very  least 
amount  of  well  directed  industry  is  sure  to  produce  abundant 
rewards.  One  half  the  amount  of  labor  applied  to  crops  in 
the  northern  states,  would  here  be  compensated  by  not  mere 
abundance  but  profusion. 

"  Much  of  the  farmer's  profits  accrue  to  him  through  the 
increase  of  his  domestic  animals,  which  require  little  or  no 
labor  or  effort  on  his  part,  as  they  can  procure  their  own  sus- 
tenance in  the  fields  and  forests,  during  the  whole  year.  Even 
the  milch  cows  requiring  but  an  occasional  handful  of  salt,  or 
ear  of  corn,  to  keep  up  their  attachment  to  their  home  and 
preserve  their  familiarity  with  man.  Similar  advantages  are 
enjoyed  for  rearing  swine,  and  all  the  other  domestic  animals, 
none  of  which  require  grain  but  laboring  horses  and  oxen.  In 
short,  added  the  old  gentleman,  "  Texas  is  the  place  to  live  in 
for  comfort  and  ease.  Very  little  labor  being  sufficient  for 
securing  all  the  necessaries  of  man  and  beast." 

"  In  the  course  of  our  excursion,  we  were  regaled  from  time 
to  time  with  the  songs  of  the  forest  birds,  a  considerable  vari- 
ety of  which  spend  the  winter  here,  and  exhibit  their  beautiful 
plumage,  as  well  as  the  sweetness  of  their  varied  notes.  A 
less  pleasing  object  however  arose  just  before  our  horses,  from 
among  the  long  grass.  It  was  a  large  brown  wolf,  whose  short 
ears  and  gaunt  form  betrayed  even  to  us  his  true  character. 
He  seemed  however  but  little  alarmed,  and  trotted  on  leisurely 
before  us,  till,  coming  to  a  ravine,  he  passed  into  it  and  disap- 
peared. Though  these  animals  appear  to  be  quite  numerous 
in  most  parts  of  Texas,  and  somewhat  annoying  to  the  pigs 
and  oiht-r  young  animals,  and  though  their  cries  as  they  ap- 


VISIT    TO    GEN.    BURLESON.  73 

proach  the  dwellings  of  men  in  the  night  are  far  from  pleas- 
ant, they  are  not  known  to  have  attempted  to  make  man  their 
prey." 

"Jan.  25th,  1840.  In  compliance  with  a  former  polite  in- 
vitation, called  upon  Gen.  Edward  Burleson,  Commander-in- 
Chief  of  the  army  of  Texas,  who  has  lately  returned  from  a 
successful  campaign  against  the  Cherokee  and  Camanche 
Indians.  One  object  of  our  visit  was  to  learn  with  accuracy 
from  him  information  respecting  such  new  and  unsettled  parts 
of  the  republic  as  he  had  visited. 

"  As  a  kind  of  preface  to  his  statements,  he  mentioned,  that 
the  late  war  with  the  Cherokees  occurred  after  two  attempts 
had  been  made  to  form  treaties  of  peace  with  them.  In  the 
latter  case,  the  object  appeared  and  was  supposed  to  be  accom- 
plished, the  terms  of  a  treaty  having  in  general  council  been 
fully  agreed  upon,  but  which  stipulations  were  directly 
violated  by  the  Indians.  Immediately,  on  the  day  after  the 
last  council,  active  hostilities  commenced,  in  which,  after  a 
smart  skirmish,  the  Cherokees  were  routed  and  retreated  to  a 
considerable  distance.  On  the  following  day,  the  Indians  sent 
a  flag  to  Gen.  Burleson's  camp  with  proposals,  which  was 
regarded  by  Gen.  B.  as  merely  an  artifice  to  gain  time  for  more 
full  preparations  ;  he  consequently  detained  the  bearer  of  the 
flag,  and  immediately  attacked  the  enemy  in  their  position. 
The  result  was  that  the  Indians  were  totally  defeated,  and 
Bowls,  one  of  their  principal  chiefs,  killed.  The  family  of 
Bowls,  with  many  other  women  and  children,  were  taken  pri- 
soners, and,  as  is  supposed,  an  entire  end  put  to  the  Cherokee 
war. 

"  After  this  victory  Gen.  B.  scoured  the  Indian  country  for 
a  considerable  distance,  driving  not  only  the  Cherokees  but 
the  Camanches  far  from  their  accustomed  haunts,  as  well  as 
from  the  dwellings  of  white  men.  On  his  return  he  took 
pains  to  drive  before  his  army  nearly  all  the  large  herds  of 
buffaloes  in  that  direction,  and  only  ceased  this  employment 

7 


74  GEN.    B.    DESCRIBES    THE    ¥PPER    COUNTRY. 

till  not  much  less  than  25,000  of  them  were  found  feeding 
within  the  settlements  of  Texas,  some  twenty  or  thirty  miles 
from  Austin. 

"  Thus  deprived  of  their  usual  supplies,  these  wandering 
Indians  will  be  compelled  to  change  their  hunting  grounds, 
going  farther  north  and  west,  or  be  driven  to  observe  peace, 
however  unwillingly,  with  their  white  neighbors.  Such  a  terror 
has  been  produced  by  these  things,  that  little  fear  is  felt  that 
these  prowlers  will  venture  again  to  make  their  incursions  with- 
in many  miles  of  the  new  capital  of  Texas. 

"  In  the  performance  of  these  important  and  valuable  ser- 
vices, Gen.  B.  traversed  a  large  extent  of  country,  extending 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  north  of  Austin,  and  from 
near  the  Trinity  on  the  east,  to  near  some  of  the  head  waters 
of  the  Rio  Grande  on  the  west.  Much  of  this  territory  he 
supposed  had  not  before  been  visited  by  white  men. 

"  The  country  of  the  Cherokees,  lying  north  and  west  of 
Nacogdoches,  is  an  extensive  and  fertile  region,  abounding  in 
valuable  timber.  The  water  is  unimpregnated  with  lime  or 
other  minerals,  the  land  is  of  a  reddish  complexion,  like  the 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Augustine,  betokening  the  presence 
of  a  portion  of  the  oxide  of  iron.  The  streams  flow  through 
a  comparatively  level  country,  and  are  consequently  to  a  good 
extent  capable  of  batteau  or  flat  boat  navigation,  and  some  of 
them  may  perhaps  be  navigated  a  part  of  the  year  by  steam 
boats. 

"  The  region  of  country  lying  between  the  Trinity  and  Bra- 
zos, above  the  falls  of  the  latter,  embracing  a  large  extent  of 
territory,  is  generally  undulating,  abounding  with  limpid  springs 
and  streams,  most  of  which  partake  more  or  less  of  lime. 
Much  of  the  land,  perhaps  two  thirds,  is  composed  of  prairies, 
and  the  remainder  of  woodland.  The  character  of  the  timber 
is  various,  according  to  its  situation,  including  Cyprus,  cedar, 
walnut,  hickory,  ash,  elm,  and  several  varieties  of  the  oak. 


WATER    POWER    FOR    MILL    SITES.  75 

• 

Considerable  falls  forming  valuable  mill-seats,  are  found  in 
many  of  the  creeks,  which,  being  composed  of  spring  water, 
will  probably  furnish  water  for  flour  mills  or  machinery  through- 
out the  year.  Some  of  the  streams  in  this  part  of  the  country 
are  brackish,  and  one  of  them  is  too  salt  for  any  domestic  pur- 
pose. 

"Lime  stone,  fitted  either  for  the  kiln  or  building  purposes, 
is  found  in  various  places,  and  the  soil,  as  indicated  by  the 
fact,  is  of  excellent  quality.  It  would  doubtless  produce 
abundantly  of  corn,  rye,  oats,  barley  or  buckwheat,  and  prob- 
ably also  of  wheat.  Cotton  will  eventually  be  apt  to  be  its 
staple  production,  and  for  that  crop  it  is  admirably  fitted.  All 
the  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone  it  is  believed  will  flourish  here, 
and  yield  to  their  cultivators  at  once  luxury  and  profit.  From 
the  falls  of  the  Colorado,  just  above  Austin,  no  obstructions  ex- 
ist in  that  river  to  prevent  flat  boats  from  bringing  cotton  or 
produce  for  a  great  distance. 

"  Above  the  city  of  Austin,  between  the  Brazos  and  the 
Colorado,  for  a  distance  of  about  fifty  miles,  the  general  aspect 
of  the  country  resembles  that  just  described,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  few  more  precipitous  hills  of  limestone  along  the 
banks  of  the  latter  river.  On  nearly  all  the  streams  falling 
into  the  Colorado,  are  eligible  sites  for  all  varieties  of  machin- 
ery, with  permanent  water  power  for  working  them.  Lime 
stone  of  the  finest  quality  abounds,  much  of  which  by  the  fine- 
ness of  its  grain,  seems  capable  of  being  elegantly  polished. 
The  soil  both  in  the  prairies  and  woodlands,  seems  to  partake 
of  the  nature  of  marl,  indicating  both  its  productiveness  and 
durability.  Wheat,  Gen  B.  thinks,  would  succeed  well,  as 
it  is  certain  every  other  kind  of  small  grain  will.  The  whole 
region  must  be  perfectly  free  from  all  local  causes  of  disease, 
and  is  entirely  exempt  from  the  annoyance  of  flies  and  mus- 
quitoes 

"  All  the  upper  parts  of  Texas,  from  the  Brazos  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Guadaloupe,  resemble  those  parts  just  described, 


76  ANECDOTE. 

• 

except  that  the  upper  portions  contain  a  greater  proportion  of 
timber.  The  whole,  according  to  the  opinion  of  Gen.  B.,  is 
fitted  to  sustain  an  exceedingly  dense  population,  and  to  be- 
come the  store  house  of  the  western  world. 

"  Of  the  correctness  of  the  opinions  of  Gen.  B.,  we  have 
no  other  means  of  judging  than  the  fact,  that  his  whole  con- 
versation and  manner  marked  him  to  be,  as  does  also  his  general 
reputation,  a  man  of  clear  and  discriminating  intelligence,  of 
close  and  correct  observation,  of  sound  sense,  simple  manners 
and  retiring  modesty.  In  him  we  see  an  illustration  of  the 
principle,  that  the  truly  brave  soldier  is  generally  found  to  be 
the  man  of  modesty  and  worth. 

"  The  following  incident  related  by  Gen.  B.,  of  an  adven- 
ture by  a  relative  of  his  own,  with  the  Camanche  Indians,  may 
illustrate  the  advantages  of  cool  presence  of  mind,  and  the 
terror  which  those  savages  feel  of  the  white  man's  rifle. 

"An  uncle  of  Gen.  B.,  with  two  of  his  sons,  being  on  a 
hunting  excursion,  had  dismounted  from  their  horses  to  allow 
them  to  feed  upon  the  prairie.  The  horse  of  the  father  had 
strayed  some  little  distance  from  the  others,  when  a  large  body 
of  Camanches  on  horseback  advanced  upon  them.  The  father 
directed  the  sons  to  get  their  horses  and  mount,  proposing  to 
ride  behind  one  of  them  and  escape.  Before  this  could  be 
accomplished,  the  father's  horse  came  running  up  to  them  as  if 
for  protection,  and  they  were  completely  surrounded  by  the 
savages.  By  the  direction  of  the  father,  the  horses  were  so 
placed  as  to  form  a  three  square  space,  with  their  riders  in  the 
centre.  Giving  strict  charge  to  the  young  men  not  to  fire,  till 
the  enemy  should  come  to  the  muzzles  of  their  guns,  they 
presented  their  weapons  over  the  necks  of  their  horses,  and 
awaited  the  attack  of  the  assailants. 

"  Finding  them  thus  entrenched,  the  Indians,  without  ventur- 
ing nearer  than  a  long  rifle  shot  distance,  retreated  some 
ways,  and  approached  in  a  direction  which  they  seemed  to 
consider  less  guarded,  but  meeting  again  the  open  mouth  of 


OPENING  OF  AN  INTERNAL  TRADE.         77 

the  fearful  weapon,  they  again  fell  back,  and  again  advanced 
in  a  still  different  direction,  but  with  like  results.  Thus  they 
continued  their  approaches  till  their  horses  became  wearied, 
when,  on  their  again  retiring,  the  beleagured  trio  mounted 
their  horses  and  soon  left  their  enemies  far  behind." 

The  following  information  relative  to  the  opening  of  a  direct 
communication  for  trading  purposes,  between  Austin  and  Santa 
Fe,  we  look  upon  as  being  of  considerable  importance,  as  it 
will  doubtless  attract  much  enterprise  and  capital  to  this  cen- 
tral position  of  the  republic.  We  copy  it  from  the  Austin 
Sentinel. 

"  The  distance  from  Austin  to  Santa  Fe  is  about  450  miles, 
over  a  rich,  rolling,  well  watered  country.  It  is  nearly  a 
north  western  direction.  From  this  city  to  the  old  San  Saba 
fort,  it  is  about  125  miles.  There  was  formerly  an  old  Spa- 
nish road  run  from  Gonzales  to  San  Saba,  which  passes 
within  fifteen  miles  of  this  place.  That  road  runs  over  a 
beautifully  undulating  country,  with  an  abundant  supply  of 
water,  and  rich  grass  prairies,  and  bottoms  covered  with  wild 
rye,  which  would  supply  an  abundant  food  for  horses  and 
mules  at  all  seasons.  The  road  is,  even  at  this  time,  quite 
plain,  and  might  with  very  little  trouble  be  passed  with  loaded 
wagons. 

From  the  old  Fort  there  is  a  plain  wagon  road  to  Santa  Fe, 
a  distance  of  325  miles.  The  road  crosses  the  Colorado 
river  about  225  miles  above  this  city — where  the  stream  ap- 
pears as  large  as  it  does  at  this  place.  There  is  a  good  ford, 
and  it  is  rarely  affected  with  high  water.  The  country  be^ 
tween  the  San  Saba  and  the  Colorado  is  one  of  extraordinary 
beauty.  It  is  about  two-thirds  prairie,  the  rest  of  it  timber 
and  bottom  lands,  beautifully  undulating,  and  containing  clear 
running  streams  of  water  in  every  valley.  Nature  has  de-? 
signed  it  for  a  stock-raising  and  grain-growing  country,  and  it 
will  be  more  celebrated  for  the  abundance  of  its  productions 
than  any  portion  of  Kentucky  or  Tennessee, 

7* 


78       FURTHER  VIEW  OF  THE  UPPER  COUNTRY. 

After  crossing  the  Colorado,  the  road  becomes  a  little  more 
hilly,  but  the  country  is  still  fertile,  well  watered,  and  con- 
tains an  abundant  supply  of  musquit  grass  and  wild  rye  for 
grazing.  This  portion  of  Texas  contains,  during  the  summer, 
more  buffalo  and  other  wild  game  than  any  portion  of  the 
country  ;  but  the  game  usually  travels  to  the  south  in  the 
winter  in  order  to  feed  on  the  more  luxuriant  prairies. 

After  crossing  the  Brazos  river  the  country  assumes  a  dif- 
ferent appearance.  On  the  right  you  have  the  broad  rich 
level  prairie,  which  stretches  off  to  the  south  east,  until  the 
view  is  lost  in  the  distance,  and  the  dull  monotony  of  the 
level  plain  is  only  relieved  by  the  innumerable  herds  of  buffalo, 
deer,  antelopes,  horses  and  wild  cattle,  which  are  for  ever  in 
sight  in  those  extensive  prairies ;  while  on  the  left,  the  Padre 
Pinta  hills  rise  in  bold  magnificence  above  the  plain.  The 
road  runs  along  near  the  margin  of  the  mountain,  where  the 
streams  from  the  hills  furnish  an  abundant  supply  of  water, 
until  you  reach  the  upper  branches  of  the  Red  river ;  when 
the  mountains  bend  suddenly  to  the  west  and  stretch  off 
towards  the  head  of  the  Puerto,  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Grande. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  and  fertility  of  the  country 
on  the  head  waters  of  the  Red  river.  The  river  is  divided 
into  innumerable  branches,  and  spreads  itself  over  an  extent 
of  country  about  80  miles  square.  Through  the  centre  of  this 
tract  passes  the  Santa  Fe  road.  Following  up  the  north  east- 
ern branch  of  Red  river,  you  ascend  the  mountain  which 
brings  you  into  the  elevated  plain  upon  which  stands  the  city 
of  Santa  F£,  at  the  distance  of  about  forty  leagues. 

This  plain  is  on  the  top  of  a  high  mountain,  which  (unlike 
the  mountains  of  the  United  States,  which  are  broken  into 
rugged  peaks  and  abrupt  precipices,)  presents  a  level  plain  of 
extraordinary  fertility.  The  scene  is  however  occasionally 
varied  by  an  abrupt  peak  which  rises  high  above  the  plain, 
and  seems  to  have  been  placed  there  as  a  beacon  to  direct  the 
steps  of  the  weary  traveller.  This  elevated  table  land  is  per- 


IMPORTANCE    OF    THE    SANTA    FE    TRADE.  79 

haps  the  best  wheat  country  in  the  world  ;  and  Malte  Brun 
says,  in  his  geography,  that  the  only  reason  Mexico  does  not 
drive  every  other  country  upon  earth  out  of  the  grain  market, 
is  the  difficulty  of  transporting  it  to  the  coast.  Upon  this 
table  land,  pure  fresh  water  lakes  and  running  streams  are 
found  in  sufficient  abundance  to  supply  a  caravan  of  traders 
with  water.  There  is  no  portion  of  the  country  where  the 
distance  between  water  will  be  more  than  fifteen  miles,  and 
loaded  wagons  might  pass  even  now  without  difficulty ;  and 
with  a  very  slight  improvement  the  road  would  be  equal  to 
any  in  the  world. 

The  Camanches  are  the  only  tribe  of  Indians  to  be  en- 
countered on  the  route,  and  a  company  of  50  men  well  armed, 
might  pass  over  any  portion  of  the  country  with  impunity. 

Many  portions  of  this  country  are  rich  in  mineral  produc- 
tions, and  mines  may  at  no  distant  period  be  wrought  with 
profit.  But  our  object  now  is  to  speak  of  the  trade,  and  we 
have  only  been  so  explicit'in  describing  the  country  through 
which  the  road  passes,  to  show  the  feasibility  of  directing  the 
trade  to  this  country. 

If  goods  can  be  landed  at  Philadelphia,  carried  over  land 
to  Pittsburg,  thence  shipped  in  a  steam  boat  to  St.  Louis,  and 
again  carried  over  land  to  Santa  Fe,  a  distance  of  not  less 
than  1600  miles,  through  almost  a  desert  country,  and  abound- 
ing in  warlike  tribes  of  Indians,  and  afford  a  profit,  how  much 
greater  would  be  the  profit  to  carry  them  from  Texas,  less 
than  one-third  of  the  distance,  and  where  none  of  those  ob- 
stacles exist. 

The  trade  of  Santa  Fe  consists  principally  in  valuable  pel- 
tries, and  gold  and  silver  in  bars  ;  and  to  this  country  horses 
and  mules,  and  even  cattle  might  be  driven  with  profit. 

Santa  Fe  is  the  place  where  all  the  traders  from  the  north 
of  Mexico  meet  the  traders  from  Missouri,  to  make  an  ex- 
change of  their  commodities.  Some  idea  of  its  value  may  be 


80  ITS    EASY    ACCOMPLISHMENT. 

drawn  from  the  great  prosperity  of  St.  Louis,  which  derives 
its  principal  wealth  from  this  trade. 

Goods  may  be  landed  at  Galveston  or  Linnville,  if  imported 
direct  from  Europe,  at  a  cheaper  rate  than  they  can  be  landed 
at  Philadelphia,  as  our  impost  duty  is  much  less  than  it  is  in 
the  United  States.  From  Galveston  to  Santa  Fe  it  is  not 
more  than  500  miles.  From  Philadelphia  to  Santa  Fe  it  is 
more  than  4000  miles. 

We  have  every  advantage  over  the  St.  Louis  trader,  and 
only  want  a  little  energy  to  carry  the  plan  into  successful 
operation." 

Believing  that  such  direct  and  isolated  facts  and  observa- 
tions as  those  contained  in  the  above  journal,  would  be  more 
interesting,  and  convey  more  practical  information  to  many 
readers,  than  more  formal  and  general  descriptions,  they  are 
placed  at  the  beginning  of  the  work,  and  will  be  explanatory 
of  many  things  afterwards  named  in  a  more  general  way.  In 
order  to  greater  conciseness,  and  to  secure  to  every  part  its 
proper  share  of  attention,  we  now  propose  to  speak  of  the 
nascent  republic  in  a  more  methodical  way,  and  arranging  our 
facts  and  conclusions  under  distinct  heads 


TEXAS    UNSURPASSED    IN    FERTILITY.  81 


BOUNDARIES,    EXTENT,    ETC. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

Geographical  position  of  Texas — It  contains  more  productive  and  valuable 
land  than  any  other  country  of  similar  extent  in  the  known  world — Its 
natural  divisions  are,  the  level,  undulating,  and  mountainous  or  hilly 
country — The  mountainous  portion  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  various 
kinds  of  grain — abounds  in  fine  springs. — Abundance  of  water  for  hy- 
draulic and  other  mechanical  purposes. — Minerals  abound. — Silver  mines 
once  worked. — The  cross  timbers  a  curiosity. — Bottom  lands  exceedingly 
rich. —  Sabine  Lake — the  Neches  and  Sabine  rivers  fall  into  it — vast 
quantities  of  fertile  and  valuable  lands  on  their  banks. — Matagorda  Bay — 
Colorado  river  empties  into  it. — Labacca  Bay — nearest  navigable  point 
of  communication  with  Austin. — Aransas  Bay — abounds  with  fish  and 
turtle. 

TEXAS  is  bounded  on  the  North  by  the  Red  river  and  the 
United  States,  on  the  East  by  the  United  States,  from  which 
it  is  separated  mostly  by  the  Sabine  rirer,  on  the  South  by  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  on  the  Southwest  and  West  by  Mexico. 

"  It  extends  from  lat.  26°  to  34°  and  near  an  half  north 
latitude,  and  from  16|  to  24  1-3  degrees  west  longitude  from 
Washington,  including,  within  its  extensive  limits,  a  greater 
amount,  it  is  probably  conjectured,  of  productive  and  valuable 
land  than  any  portion  of  equal  extent  in  the  known  world. 

FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. — Taken  as  a  whole,  Texas  is  one 
of  the  evenest  and  most  level  portions  of  America.  With  the 
exception  of  the  Northwestern  region,  no  part  of  it  can 
properly  be  termed  even  hilly,  much  less  mountainous.  Still,  in 
relation  to  its  peculiarities  of  surface,  the  country  may  naturally 


82  NATURAL    DIVISIONS    OF    TEXAS. 

be  divided  into  three  sections,  each  differing  materially  from  the 
other.  Perhaps  these  may  appropriately  be  designated  as  the 
level,  the  undulating,  and  the  mountainous,  or  rather  hilly  parts 
of  the  Republic.  The  level  section  embraces  the  entire  coasts, 
and  extends  inland  along  the  direction  of  the  rivers,  from  thirty 
to  sixty,  and,  in  some  places,  eighty  miles.  Much  of  this, 
though  the  whole  country  may,  in  relation  to  its  surface,  be  re- 
garded as  one  vast  inclined  plain,  facing  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  is 
so  flat  that  after  heavy  rains  the  water  drains  off  but  slowly, 
and  the  prairies  for  miles  resemble  shallow  lakes  in  which  the 
grass  and  reeds  shoot  above  their  surface.  Still,  very  little,  if 
any  thing  like  marsh  can  be  said  to  exist  in  any  part  of  the 
country.  The  only  parts  unfitted  for  the  plough,  are  what  are 
called  crawfishy  places,  which  are,  however,  highly  valuable 
for  pasturage.  Other  portions  of  the  level  country,  including 
the  cane  prairies,  are  among  the  richest  and  most  productive 
lands  in  the  world.  The  extent  of  the  area  of  this,  or  either  of 
the  other  regions,  it  is  impossible  to  estimate,  other  wise  than  by 
the  general  remark,  that  it  is  very  extensive,  and  will  admit  of 
a  greatly  increased  population. 

Above,  or  rather  beyond,  the  level  region,  commences 
what  is  appropriately  styled  the  undulating  or  rolling  country. 
This  forms  by  far  the  largest  section  of  the  country,  and 
though  not  so  uniformly  rich  as  the  level  region,  contains  an 
immense  extent  of  exceedingly  fertile  soil,  both  prairie  and 
woodland,  besides  much  rich  sandy  loam  that  will  probably,  at 
no  distant  day,  be  found  equally  profitable  with  the  finest  por- 
tions of  the  country.  Upon  the  tops  of  the  elevated  prairies 
of  this  region,  are  found  frequent  level  plains  of  considerable 
extent,  whose  surface  is  indented  with  cavities  a  foot  or  two 
deep,  and  from  three  to  seven  or  eight  feet  wide.  Such  places 
are  denominated  hog-wallow  prairies,  in  which  the  land  is 
extremely  rich,  and  believed  to 'be  durable  as  any  other.  Be- 
side these  peculiar  places,  much  of  the  soil  of  the  upland 
prairies  is  a  black  mould,  of  considerable  depth,  supported  by  a 


SOIL    OF    SECONDARY    FORMATION.  83 

subsoil  of  either  a  steel  grey  or  else  of  a  formation  of  marl,  uni- 
ted with  other  substances.  Among  other  advantages  of  this  re- 
gion, one  very  important  one  is  the  frequent  springs  and  streams 
of  pure  and  limpid  water.  Along  these  rills  and  streams  are 
always  strips  of  woodland,  sometimes  presenting  a  mere  mass 
of  shrubbery,  with  here  and  there  a  cedar,  and  sometimes  a 
broader  belt  of  lofty  forest  trees.  Other  sections  are  covered 
with  scattered  trees  of  post  oak  and  black  jack.  Most  of 
which  consists  of  elevated  and  gravelly  land.  Among  these 
are  occasionally  found  numberless  clumps  of  grape  vines,  pro- 
ducing abundance  of  large  and  delicious  grapes,  and  proving 
the  adaptation  of  these  regions  to  the  production  of  raisins, 
wine,  and  the  most  delicate  fruits  of  the  vine. 

The  mountainous  or  hilly  part  of  Texas  embraces  its  north 
western  section,  and,  though  considerably  extensive,  forms  the 
smallest  of  the  three  divisions  of  the  country.  In  no  place 
does  this  broken  feature  approach  nearer  than  one  hundred 
and  seventy-five  or  two  hundred  miles  of  the  coast.  Though 
in  this  region  the  elevations  are  considerable,  and  for  Texas 
steep  and  somewhat  rugged,  few  of  the  acclivities  are  exactly 
precipitous,  and  none  of  the  mountains  would  rank  higher 
than  those  of  the  fourth  or  fifth  class.  For  the  most  part  they 
seem  to  be  of  secondary  formation,  lime  stone  composing  a 
very  large  proportion  of  their  substance.  Hence,  as  might  be 
expected,  their  ascents  are  generally  rather  gradual  than  abrupt, 
and  their  summits  rather  rounded  than  pointed  and  rocky.  The 
sides  of  these  hills,  extending  to  their  very  tops,  are  covered 
with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  timber,  including  the  oak,  cedar, 
elm,  and  other  trees,  interspersed  with  shrubbery  of  various 
kinds.  The  soil  in  the  valleys,  which  are  numerous  and  ex- 
tensive, and  extending  for  some  distance  up  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  is  exceedingly  rich,  and  fitted  to  produce  the  very 
finest  crops  of  grain,  grass,  or  other  productions.  From  the 
feet  and  sides  of  these  hills,  issue  innumerable  streams  and 
springs  of  water,  which,  uniting  into  creeks  and  rivers,  and 


84  THE    CROSS    TIMBERS    A    CURIOSITY. 

passing  down  the  declivities  of  the  country,  furnish  abundant 
facilities  for  every  kind  and  degree  of  hydraulic  power.  Is- 
suing from  the  hearts  of  these  mountains,  the  water  of  the 
streams  is  cool  and  pure,  and  but  slightly  diminished  by  the 
warmth  and  dryness  of  the  summer,  so  that  mills  and  machin- 
ery can  continue  their  operations,  throughout  the  year.  After 
watering  their  own  mountain  vales,  and  escaping  from  such 
narrow  channels,  they  unite  with  others  of  their  own  charac- 
ter, and  flowing  on  to  the  undulating  and  level  regions,  form 
the  large  and  navigable  rivers  that  water  all  the  plains  of  this 
new  but  interesling  country.  These  mountains  are  known  to 
enclose  in  their  bowels  vast  amounts  of  valuable  minerals  of 
different  kinds.  The  two  most  important  articles  in  the  mineral 
kingdom  are  understood  to  be  abundant;  silver  mines  were 
formerly  wrought  here  by  the  Spaniards  but  abandoned  in  con- 
sequence of  the  hostility  of  the  Indians  ;  and  specimens  of  fine 
virgin  gold  have  been  found. 

An  interesting  feature  in  the  face  of  northern  Texas  is 
what  is  called  the  Cross  Timbers,  extending  from  near  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Brazos  river  in  latitude  32°  in  a  direct 
northern  course,  to  near  the  Red  river,  a  length  of  about  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles,  while  in  width  it  cannot  exceed  from 
ten  to  fifteen  miles.  Near  the  centre  of  these  timbers 
formerly  stood  several  villages  of  the  Caddo  Indians,  but 
which  were  burned  by  Gen.  Rusk,  in  January  7th,  1839. 
Such  a  range  of  forest,  marked  by  extended  and  distinct 
boundaries  of  prairie,  and  lying  in  such  a  perfectly  straight 
line,  must  be  regarded  as  extremely  curious,  and  worthy  of 
particular  attention. 

Nearly  all  the  streams  in  the  whole  of  this  country  except 
those  among  the  mountains,  are  skirted  by  wide  borders  of 
alluvial  or  bottom  land,  covered  with  dense  forests  of  timber 
and  underwood,  or  else  with  almost  impenetrable  coats  of 
cane,  either  alone  or  mingled  with  timber.  Many  of  these 
alluvions  are  very  wide,  some  of  them  from  three  to  fifteen  or 


SABINE    RIVER    DIVIDES    TEXAS    AND    IT.    STATES.          85 

twenty  miles,  and  consequently  make  an  important  part  of  the 
face  of  the  country,  especially  as  their  fertility  is  unsurpassed 
by  any  portion  of  the  known  world.  Embracing  as  they  do 
so  large  a  portion  of  the  land,  were  all  the  rest  of  the  country 
poor,  these  bottoms  would  of  themselves  form  for  it  a  desir- 
able character. 


BAYS,    RIVERS,    ETC. 

As  indicated  by  its  boundaries,  nearly  the  whole  southern 
border  of  Texas  is  washed  by  the  waters  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico, 
whose  broad  waters  lave  not  only  the  shores  of  Texas,  but 
considerable  portions  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico.  No  part 
however  of  the  extended  coast  of  this  great  gulf  or  sea,  is  more 
frequently  indented  by  inlets,  bays  and  harbors,  than  that  of 
the  new  republic.  Though  the  entrance  to  many  of  these  is  in 
some  measure  impeded  by  bars  and  shoal  water,  most  of  them 
are  accessible  at  high  tide  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  These 
partial  obstructions  to  the  navigation  of  the  harbors  of  Texas, 
being  composed  of  sand  and  other  soft  materials,  it  is  believed 
will  be  eventually  removed,  and  that  this  country  will  present 
as  many  facilities  for  maritime  commerce,  as  any  other  part 
of  the  southern  country  of  equal  extent. 

Commencing  at  the  extreme  eastern  point  of  the  coast,  the 
first  considerable  body  of  salt  water  penetrating  the  interior, 
is  the  Sabine  Lake,  which,  with  the  Sabine  river  that  empties 
into  it,  separates  this  part  of  Texas  from  the  United  States. 
This  body  of  water  is  connected  with  the  Gulf  by  what  is 
styled  the  Sabine  pass,  is  of  considerable  extent,  and  suffi- 
ciently commodious  for  all  purposes  of  navigation,  but  the  in- 
let is  shallow,  and  its  entrance  bordered  by  mud  and  other 
obstacles  for  some  distance.  Steam  boats  of  considerable 
burden  have  passed  over  it,  and  ascended  some  distance 
up  the  Sabine  River.  Into  this  lake,  fall  the  Sabine  and 

8 


86  RED    FISH    BAR. 

Neches  rivers,  on  whose  banks  are  found   vast  quantities  of 
fertile  and  valuable  land. 

Proceeding    westward,  the  next  harbor  that  attracts  our 
attention  is  Galveston  Bay,  the  largest,  and,  at  present,  most 
important  one  on  the  coast.     The  long  and  narrow  island    of 
Galveston  lies  directly  in  front  of  the  western  division  of  the 
bay,  while  the  eastern  section,  or  the  other  side  of  the  inlet,  is 
subtarded    by  a  peninsula  of  the  main  land.     Between   the 
eastern   extremity  of  Galveston  island,  and  between  that  and 
Pelican  island,  is  the  harbor  of  Galveston,  with  a  depth  of  wa- 
ter varying  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet,  and  extending  several 
miles  up  the  bay.     The  principal  entrance  into  the  harbor  is 
at   the    eastern    extremity  of  the    island,  and,  except   during 
the  prevalence   of  north  winds,  will  admit   the   entrance  of 
ships  of  the  middle  class.     The  passage   is  of   considerable 
width,  and    when  the  light  house,  authorised   by  Congress, 
shall  be  completed,  will  be  navigated  with  little^f  any  cttfKcul- 
ty.     The  navigation  of  this  bay  by  steam  boats,  passing  from 
Galveston  to  Houston,  is  unobstructed,  except  at  Red-fish  bar, 
which  passes  quite   across  the  bay  near  its  centre,  and   on 
which  the  water  is   shallow,  especially  when  in  the  fall  or 
winter  the  north  winds  prevail.     At  such  times  boats  frequently 
find  themselves  aground,  and  their  only  remedy  is  to  wait  till 
a  change  of  wind  shall  bring  back  to  them  a  depth  of  water 
sufficient  to  bear  them  over  the  bar.     At  the  western  extremity 
of  Galveston  island  is  another  pass  into  this  bay,  said  to  admit 
in  its  channel  vessels  of  burden.     Here,  too,  in  front  of  a  small 
island,  is  said  to  be  a  good  harbor,  and  on  the  island  has  been 
laid  out  a  town  called  San  Louis.     It  is  thought  by  some  that 
this  place  possesses   advantages  superior  to   Galveston.     Of 
this,  however,  we  are  not  prepared  to  judge. 

The  head  of  this  bay,  extending  a  considerable  distance 
northward  into  the  interior,  forms  the  estuary  of  several  small 
creeks,  the  principal  of  which  is  the  river  San  Jacinto,  which 


MATAGORDA    BAY.  87 

though  but  an  inconsiderable  stream,  will  be  ever  memorable 
in  Texian  annals,  for  the  battle  on  its  banks,  which  decided  the 
fate  of  empire,  and  inscribed  the  name  of  a  new-born  nation 
indelibly  upon  the  tablets  of  history.  ^ 

The  extreme  western  arm  of  this  bay  extends  nearly  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Brazos  river,  with  which  it  has  been  con- 
jectured it  might  be  properly  united  by  a  canal.  Such  schemes 
however  would  not  at  present  be  productive  of  any  material 
benefit.  Till,  from  the  extent  of  settlements,  and  the  surplus 
of  agricultural  products,  shall  fail  to  find  a  domestic  market, 
the  natural  outlets  and  harbors  of  the  country  should  satisfy 
the  desires  of  the  public.  The  time  will  no  doubt  come,  and 
that  ere  many  years  pass  by,  when  improvements,  now 
scarce  imagined,  will  not  only  be  devised  but  executed,fand 
the  people  rejoice  in  advantages  of  which  their  ancestors  had 
scarcely  conceived. 

Still  further  westward,  and  bounding  the  whole  southern 
border  of  Matagorda  and  Jackson  counties,  is  the  large  and 
beautiful  bay  of  Matagorda.  Into  the  eastern  part  of  this  feay 
falls  the  Colorado  river,  while  further  west  a  projection  of  the 
bay  northward  into  the  interior  is  called  Trespalcios  bay,  and 
at  its  western  extremity  another  large  projection  called  Laba- 
ca  bay,  becomes  the  estuary  of  the  Labaca  river.  Passa  Ca- 
vallo,  the  inlet  to  Matagorda  bay,  is  said  to  have  tenor  twelve 
feet  water  on  its  bar,  and  the  harbor  within  to  be  safe,  with 
four  fathoms  water.  Most  however  of  the  area  of  this  bay, 
like  much  of  the  waters  on  the  southern  coast  of  North  Am- 
erica, is  very  shallow.  The  average  depth  of  its  waters,  from 
the  inlet  to  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  being  not  more  than 
seven  or  eight  feet.  And  the  vessels  which  can  pass  over 
this  shoal  water,  cannot  approach  th«  mouth  of  tho  Colorado, 
being  obliged  to  Discharge  their  cargoes  for  this  point  by  means 
of  lighting,  or  still  more  inconvenient  methods.  Like  diffi- 
culties exist  at  the  mouth  of  the  Labaca,  where  the  water  is 
equally  if  not  still  more  shallow,  Neither  of  these  rivers,  it 


88  TOWN    OF    VICTOBIA. 

is  asserted,  admit  at  ordinary  high  tides  vessels  drawing  more 
than  three  and  a  half  feet  water. 

On  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Colorado,  where  it  enters  this 
bay,  stands  the  town  of  Matagorda.  It  has  been  settled  for 
some  time,  contains  a  considerable  number  of  inhabitants,  and 
enjoys  a  respectable  share  of  commerce  with  the  interior. 
Here  is  a  respectable  school  for  English  and  classical  scholars, 
taught  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ives,  of  the  Episcopal  church,  who 
also  labors  as  a  missionary  among  the  people.  On  Labaca 
bay  are  Linville,  Cox's  Point,  and  Dimmitt's  landing,  all  new 
towns,  of  whose  prospects  the  stranger  can  form  no  very  ad- 
equate judgment.  Some  of  these  towns,  however,  are  said 
to  be  the  nearest  navigable  points  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to 
the  new  city  of  Austin,  from  which  goods  may  be  transported 
to  that  place  in  a  shorter  time  and  at  less  expense  than 
from  any  other  maritime  town.  Probably  some  of  the  towns 
on  this  bay  may,  in  a  few  years,  acquire  much  commercial 
importance,  though  at  present  it  is  difficult  and  perhaps  impos- 
siye  to  decide  which  of  them  embodies  the  greatest  advan- 
tages. 

Still  further  west  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  formed  by  the 
junction  of  the  Guadaloupe  and  San  Antonio,  and  apparently  a 
mere  widening  of  its  mouth,  is  Espiritu  Santo  Bay,  separated 
from  the  Gulf  by  the  Island  of  Matagorda,  at  the  extremities 
of  which  are  inlets  to  this  bay.  As  yet  it  has  not  been  much 
used  in  navigation  or  for  commercial  purposes,  as  no  towns 
are  found  upon  its  shores  even  at  the  estuary  of  the  river 
emptying  into  it.  Some  distance  up  the  Guadaloupe  is  the  site 
of  an  interesting  new  town  called  Victoria,  which  bids  fair  to 
become  respectable  for  commerce  and  other  advantages. 

South-west  from  the  preceding  harbors,  and  extending 
considerably  inland,  appears  the  Bay  of  Arajisaso,  or  Aransa- 
zua,  the  third  in  size  in  the  republic,  and  deeper  than  any  ot 
them.  Vessels  drawing  seven  feet  water  find  an  easy  entrance, 
and  the  harbor  affords  a  very  secure  haven.  It  is  dotted  with 


RED    RIVER    BOUNDARY    TO    TEXAS    AND    U.    S.  89 

islands,  and  abounds  with  fish  and  turtle.  An  arm  of  this  bay, 
called  Capano  bay,  is  separated  from  the  rest  by  a  peninsula 
nearly  dividing  the  whole  bay  in  the  centre,  called  Live  Oak 
Point.  At  the  cape,  formed  by  this  peninsula,  is  a  town  cal- 
led Aransas,  nearly  opposite  to  this  on  the  eastern  border  of 
the  bay  is  Lamar,  and  at  its  head  on  the  north  the  town  of 
Capano.  Several  small  rivers  empty  their  waters  into  this  bay, 
along  whose  streams  it  is  probable  there  is  much  good  land 
well  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar  cane. 

Still  further  south  and  west,  receiving  the  waters  of  the 
Nueces  river,  is  Corpus  Christi  bay,  of  the  particular  advan- 
tages of  which  little  information  could  be  procured.  The  in- 
terior and  western  projection  however  is  called  Nueces  bay, 
and  seems  to  be  merely  a  widening  of  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  that  name.  The  lands  on  this  river  are  represented  to  be 
as  fertile  as  any  in  the  republic. 

RIVERS. — Red  river,  which  separates  Texas  on  the  north 
from  Arkansas  in  the  United  States,  rises  among  the  highlands 
near  the  great  Rocky  mountain  chain,  about  103°  W.  Long, 
from  Greenwich,  and  33°  N,  L.,  and  runs  a  course  due  east 
nearly  the  whole  breadth  of  Texas,  declining  towards  the 
south  as  it  approaches  the  eastern  border,  and,  finally,  pours 
its  current  of  turbid  and  reddish  colored  waters  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi in  the  state  of  Louisiana.  It  is  navigable  at  this  time 
for  small  steam  boats  for  a  considerable  distance  above  Shrieve* 
port,  the  exact  point  where  it  becomes  incapable  of  this  ad- 
vantage being  not  certainly  known.  Nearly  its  whole  length 
may  probably  afford  facilities  for  the  passage  of  batteaux  and 
flat  boats,  in  taking  to  the  lower  country  the  products  of  its 
banks,  which  are  believed  to  be  every  where  extremely  fertile. 
The  waters  of  this  river,  and  the  alluvial  lands  along  its  banks, 
are  deeply  tinged  with  a  color  mostly  resembling  the  red  ox- 
ide of  iron,  to  the  presence  of  which  substance  this  peculiar^ 
ity  is  generally  attributed.  Hence  its  name. 

8* 


90  SABINE,    NECHES,    AND    TRINITY    RITERS. 

The  SABINE  river  rises  in  the  north-eastern  part  of  Texas, 
and  running  some  distance  in  a  south-western  direction, 
changes  its  course  to  almost  due  south,  forms  the  boundary 
between  this  republic  and  the  United  States.  It  waters  an 
extensive  and  well  timbered  country,  and  is  navigable  for 
steam  boats  a  considerable  distance  from  its  entrance  into 
Sabine  lake,  though  how  far  boats  may  ascend  with  safety  has 
not  probably  been  accurately  tested. 

"  Passing  westward  from  the  Sabine,  the  next  river  we  meet 
is  the  NECHES,  which  rises  near  the  Red  river,  and  running 
in  a  south-eastern  direction,  falls,  like  the  Sabine,  into  the  Sa- 
bine lake.  Like  most  other  rivers  of  this  country,  its  bed  is 
bordered  by  broad  alluvial  bottoms,  subject  to  occasional  inun- 
dations, from  which,  however,  no  injury  occurs,  as  the  waters 
soon  retire  to  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  leave  a  rich  deposit 
behind  them.  The  channel  is  deep  but  narrow,  navigation  by 
small  steam  boats  sixty  or  eighty  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  of 
batteaux  much  farther. 

Next  in  order,  proceeding  westward  as  before,  we  approach 
the  TRINITY,  which,  like  the  Neches,  rises  near  the  Red 
river  in  the  north  of  Texas,  and  running  in  a  south-eastern 
course,  empties  its  waters  into  the  north-eastern  part  of  Gal- 
veston  bay.  Its  length  has  been  estimated  at  six  hundred  and 
fifty  miles,  but  it  is  probably  much  longer.  It  passes  through 
a  fertile  and  beautiful  region,  now  rapidly  filling  up  with  in- 
habitants, and  abounding  in  iron,  coal,  and  some  other  valuable 
minerals. 

This  river  is  navigable  for  steam  boats  for  a  great  distance 
from  its  mouth,  and  some  confidently  believe  that  they  may 
ascend  five  hundred  miles  by  water.  The  banks  are  steep 
and  high,  and  hence  not  likely  to  suffer  by  inundation.  Much 
of  the  land  in  eastern  Texas,  between  this  river  and  the 
Sabine,  except  the  river  bottoms,  are  represented  as  being 
similar  to  the  high  lands  in  the  western  district  of  Tennessee 
and  northern  Mississippi — good  farming  and  cotton  lands. 


BRAZOS    RIVER.  91 

though  less  productive  than  the  better  portions  of  southern 
and  western  Texas. 

Several  new  towns  have  been  lately  established  at  different 
points  on  this  river,  which  are  rapidly  filling  with  inhabitants. 
Perhaps  no  part  of  the  republic  is  more  rapidly  settling  than 
the  country  upon  and  near  the  Trinity  river. 

The  BRAZOS,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  rivers 
of  this  country,  rises  in  the  north-western  part  of  Texas,  and 
meandering  through  a  very  extensive  region,  and,  running  by 
estimation,  750  miles,  falls  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
general  direction  of  this  river  is  south-east,  and  its  waters, 
like  those  of  the  Red  river,  considerably  tinged  by  the  oxide 
of  iron.  This  is  much  more  apparent  at  some  times  than  at 
others,  probably  owing  to  the  greater  rise  of  particular 
branches  at  different  seasons.  In  its  course  it  receives  the 
waters  of  many  tributaries,  the  largest  of  which  is  the  Navo 
sato,  coming  from  the  north-east. 

The  most  remarkable  branch  of  this  stream,  however,  is 
called  the  salt  branch,  flowing  from  an  extensive  plain  deeply 
impregnated  with  mineral  salt.  In  times  of  very  wet  weather, 
this  plain  is  said  to  be  covered  with  water,  which,  in  flowing 
off.  carries  with  it  salt  enough  to  render  the  waters  of  the 
whole  river  quite  brackish.  At  this  time  the  waters  deposit  a 
fine  red  clay,  which,  to  the  touch,  resembles  soap,  and  is  very 
adhesive.  This  clay  evidently  contains  salt,  and  probably 
iron.  In  very  dry  weather,  it  is  said,  this  temporary  lake 
dries  up,  and  the  whole  plain  is  frosted  with  particles  of  crys- 
tallized salt.  Except  when  this  salt  branch  is  high,  the 
waters  of  the  Brazos  are  free  from  appearance  of  salt,  and 
fitted  for  all  the  purposes  to  which  river  water  is  applied. 

The  country  through  which  this  river  flows,  especially  its 
wide  bottoms,  is  remarkable  for  the  exceeding  beauty  of  its 
form  and  undulations  ;  and  for  fertility  is  surpassed  by  no  por- 
tion of  lands  on  the  globe.  It  was  during  the  last  winter 


92  COLORADO    RIVER. 

literally  the  granary  of  Texas,  and  but  for  the  abundance  of 
corn  produced  along  its  banks,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how 
the  thousands  of  emigrants  and  travellers  that  visited  the 
country,  could  have  obtained  subsistence.  For  sixty  or  eighty 
miles  from  its  waters,  innkeepers  and  others  told  of  going  to 
the  Brazos  to  procure  supplies  of  corn  and  bacon. 

In  rare  instances  the  bottoms  of  this  river  have  been  over- 
flowed, and  much  damage  done  to  crops,  fences  and  stock. 
One  instance  only  has  been  related  to  the  writer,  and  it  is 
hoped  that  like  disasters  will  be  unheard  of  hereafter. 

Like  most  other  streams  of  this  country,  the  Brazos  is  ob- 
structed by  a  bar  at  its  mouth,  composed  of  a  bank  of  sand. 
Over  this  bar  vessels  drawing  more  than  six  feet  water  cannot 
pass.  Within  the  bar  is  a  good  and  safe  harbor,  and  the  river 
is  navigable  for  steam  boats  certainly  as  far  up  as  Washington, 
and  probably  will  be  so  much  farther.  At  present,  however, 
they  have  a  perfectly  good  market  for  all  the  productions  of 
the  soil,  at  their  own  doors,  and  need  neither  ships  nor  steam 
boats  to  convert  the  fruits  of  their  fields  into  money.  The 
banks  of  the  river,  for  a  great  distance  from  its  mouth,  are 
dotted  with  towns  and  villages,  some  of  which  being  burned 
during  the  war  with  Mexico,  are  now  rising  from  their  ashes, 
though  not  without  marks  of  the  ruin  they  suffered. 

The  COLORADO,  the  next  river  west  of  the  Brazos,  is  the 
second  river  in  size  in  the  republic.  It  rises  in  the  extreme 
western  part  of  the  country,  one  of  its  principal  branches 
heading  about  104°  west  longitude,  and  less  than  30  north 
latitude,  which,  running  thence  in  a  north-eastern  direction 
among  the  Cordilleras,  unites  with  the  Pasigona,  and,  turning 
with  that  to  a  south-eastern  course,  meanders  through  the 
heart  of  the  country,  and  falls  into  the  eastern  part  of  Mata- 
gorda  bay.  Its  length  is  estimated  at  about  six  hundred  miles, 
though  others  think  it  is  considerably  more  than  that, 


GUADALOUPE    AND    SAN    ANTONIO    RIVERS.  93 

This  river  would  probably  be  navigable  for  steam  boats 
very  nearly  to  the  falls  above  Austin,  but  for  a  raft  of  timber, 
composed  of  flood  wood,  that  obstructs  its  channel  a  short 
distance  above  Matagorda.  This  raft  will  probably  soon  be 
removed,  and  vigorous  attempts  made  to  improve  the  naviga- 
tion of  the  stream,  especially  since  the  seat  of  government  has 
been  located  upon  its  banks.  By  those  who  have  traversed 
its  length  from  Austin,  downwards,  in  a  periogue,  the  stream 
is  represented  as  containing  very  few  obstructions,  and  those 
capable  of  easy  removal.  Several  gentlemen  of  experience 
in  river  navigation,  expressed  a  confident  opinion,  that  for  a 
part  of  the  year  at  least,  steam  boats  might  visit  the  upper 
Colorado,  if  not  land  in  Austin  itself. 

The  banks  of  this  river  and  the  adjacent  lands,  abound  in 
beautiful  and  valuable  timber,  as  well  as  frequent  level  and 
exuberantly  rich  prairies.  Live  oak,  and  various  other  kinds 
of  that  valuable  timber,  cedar,  ash,  hackberry,  elm,  musquit, 
etc.  are  found  in  almost  every  direction.  The  peccan  tree  in 
particular,  appears  to  flourish  here  in  high  perfection.  One 
was  declared  by  a  gentleman  of  high  character,  though  many 
others  as  large  were  in  the  neighborhood,  to  have  produced 
twenty-five  bushels  of  that  delicate  nut  in  a  single  year. 

The  River,  or  Rio,  GUADALUPE  rises  in  the  hilly  regions  of 
the  north-west  of  Texas,  and  running  south-eastward  in  a 
clear  and  beautiful  stream,  it  receives  several  tributaries,  and 
uniting  with  the  San  Antonio,  falls  with  it  into  the  Aransaso 
bay.  The  waters  of  this  river  are  represented  as  very  trans- 
parent and  beautiful,  and  the  alluvial  bottoms  as  extensive 
and  fertile.  Its  width  is  seldom  sixty  yards,  but  it  flows 
through  a  beautiful  and  well-timbered  country. 

Thfi    SAN    ANTONIO    has    its    eourooo    among    tlno    mountains 

north-west  of  Bexar.     it  is  formed  of  the  united  waters  of 
innumerable  springs,  which,  issuing  from  the  sources  in  the 


9  NEUCES    AND    RIO    GRANDE    RIVERS. 

rocks  composing  the  bases  of  the  mountains,  unite  their  spark- 
ling rivulets  into  one  clear  transparent  river,  which  flows  off 
gaily  with  a  rapid  and  noisy  current  over  a  bed  of  limestone. 
Derived  almost  entirely  from  these  sources,  it  is  not  subject 
to  great  changes  nor  considerable  freshets.  Its  width  is  in- 
considerable, though  of  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  and 
abounds  in  cascades  and  rapids,  well  adapted  for  mill  seats 
and  hydraulic  purposes. 

This  and  its  other  branch,  the  Guadalupe,  are  both  repre- 
sented by  one  writer  as  navigable  for  canoes  nearly  to  their 
sources.  How  this  consists  with  their  course  among  hills, 
and  their  adaptation  for  machinery,  we  do  not  clearly  discover. 
After  flowing  a  considerable  distance  in  a  nearly  eastern  di- 
rection, it  forms  a  junction  with  the  Guadalupe,  and  its  waters 
are  soon  after  lost  in  the  waves  of  the  Aransaso. 

The  NUKCES  rises  in  the  highlands  of  the  Guadalupe  moun- 
tains, and  running  in  a  direction  but  little  south  of  east,  emp- 
ties its  waters  through  the  Nueces  bay  into  the  bay  of  Corpus 
Christi.  The  lands  on  the  banks  of  this  river  are  said  to  be 
surpassingly  fertile  even  for  Texas,  abounding  in  excellent 
timber,  of  which  the  peccan  forms  a  large  proportion.  The 
bottoms  are  extensive,  sufficiently  elevated  for  cultivation,  and 
productive  beyond  calculation.  It  is  presumed  that  in  some 
few  years  sugar  will  form  the  great  staple  of  this  region.  All 
the  lower  parts  of  the  Nueces  may  be  navigated  by  keel  and 
fiat  boats,  and  probably  to  some  extent  by  steam  boats. 

At  some  distance  from  the  Nueces,  and  at  the  extreme 
south-western  border  of  Texas,  is  the  Rio  GRANDE,  Rio  BRAVO, 
or  Rio  DEL  NORTE,  for  it  is  called  by  all  these  names,  and,  as 
its  name  indicates,  one  of  the  largest  rivers  falling  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  west  of  the  great  Mississippi. 

It  has  its  sources  far  north  and  w«st  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  one  branch  heading  on  the  eastern  and  another  on 
the  western  side  of  one  long  range  of  these  mountains. 


SAN    JACINTO    RIVER    AND    BUFFALO    BAYOU.  95 

Though  the  war  between  Mexico  and  Texas  has  not  been 
formally  terminated  by  a  peace  between  the  two  nations,  this 
river  has  by  a  kind  of  tacit  agreement,  become  the  boundary 
line  that  divides  them.  On  the  south  and  west  side  are  found 
numerous  villages  and  hamlets  of  the  Mexicans,  who  dwell 
in  peace  and  security  in  their  habitations,  and  on  the  other 
range  the  settlers,  hunters,  and  surveyors  of  Texas,  who, 
without  interruption  pursue  their  various  objects. 

The  extreme  northern  sources  of  this  river  extend  as  high 
as  38°  N.  L.,  and,  after  a  long  course  in  a  south  eastern  di- 
rection, fall  into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  to  the  south  of  Corpus 
Christi  bay.  This  river  is  navigable  for  ships  of 'considerable 
burden  for  some  distance  from  its  mouth,  and  should  the  war 
between  Texas  and  Mexico  soon  cease,  it  is  probable  that  its 
facilities  for  steam  boat  navigation  will  be  tested,  and  may 
extend  several  hundred  miles  into  the  interior. 

The  extended  region  between  the  lower  parts  of  the  Nueces 
and  the  Rio  Grande  is  but  little  known.  From  the  fact  that 
few  tributaries  fall  into  either  of  those  streams  from  this  part 
of  the  country,  it  has  been  inferred  that  it  consists  principally 
of  dry  elevated  prairie,  a  conclusion  but  feebly  supported  by 
the  premises.  It  would  seem  quite  as  probable  that  it  em- 
braced extensive  marshes  and  lakes,  which  receive  and  retain 
the  waters  that  fall  upon  them,  as  that  they  are  elevated ;  for 
in  that  case  the  waters  from  the  clouds  and  springs  would 
both  naturally  descend  the  declivities  and  find  their  way  to 
these  rivers. 

In  connection  with  this  notice  of  the  rivers  of  Texas,  it  is 
proper  to  mention  that  there  are  also  scattered  through  the 
republic  many  interesting  creeks  and  smaller  streams,  some 
of  which  are  remarkable  for  being  navigable  almost  to  their 
sources,  and  others  for  other  causes. 

Among  the  former  may  be  mentioned  the  San  Jacinto  and 
the  Buffalo  Bayou,  which  are  constantly  navigated  by  steam 


96  CANEY    AND    OYSTER    CREEKS. 

boats  even  to  the  forks  of  the  latter  at  the  city  of  Houston, 
although  for  several  miles  below  that  place,  it  is  so  narrow 
that  large  steam  boats  find  it  difficult,  and  sometimes  impos- 
sible, to  turn  themselves  round  in  the  stream.  This  whole 
bayou  rather  resembles  a  crooked  canal  with  high  and  wooded 
banks,  than  a  natural  stream. 

Caney  Creek  is  remarkable  for  a  vast  cane  brake,  without 
any  portion  of  timber,  which  lines  its  banks.  This  cane 
brake,  till  the  hand  of  white  men  violated  its  uniformity,  ex- 
tended from  within  twelve  miles  of  its  mouth  to  near  its 
source,  a  distance  of  seventy-five  miles,  and  from  one  to  three 
miles  in  width.  This  broad  sheet  of  cane  is  bordered  on  both 
sides  by  heavy  timber. 

Oyster  Creek,  which  arises  in  the  alluvial  lands  of  the 
Brazos,  and  runs  parallel  with  it,  meandering  through  its  bot- 
toms, is  bordered  with  considerable  quantities  of  cane  brake, 
most  of  which  however  is  mingled  with  timber. 

The  Labaca  is  a  handsome  rivulet,  flowing  through  a  fertile 
region,  and  almost  hidden  by  a  dense  growth  of  valuable 
and  lofty  timber.  To  these  might  be  added  the  San  Bernardo, 
Aransaso  and  others. 

There  are  few  lakes  in  the  whole  republic,  and  these  ge- 
nerally of  no  considerable  extent  or  importance.  A  few  are 
found  near  the  sources  of  the  Guadalupe  and  on  some  of  the 
branches  of  the  Red  river,  but  they  are  not  felt  to  be  impor- 
tant. In  the  central  part  of  the  region  of  San  Patricio,  di- 
rectly west  of  Padre  island,  there  are  several  lakes  of  some 
extent,  whose  waters  are  so  impregnated  with  salt,  that  it  is 
constantly  crystallizing  by  solar  evaporation.  The  cubes  that 
form  upon  the  surface  by  the  least  agitation  of  the  water,  are 
made  to  sink,  and,  on  the  bottom,  they  agglutinate  and  form  a 
thick  crust  of  the  purest  crystal  salt,  which  may  easily  be 
collected  in  any  quantity,  and  for  every  purpose. 

Still  this   abundant  supply  of  that  necessary  article  is  here 


SALT    LAKES    IN    TEXAS.  97 

of  little  importance,  as  at  the  Padre  island  above  mentioned, 
in  its  whole  length  from  near  Matamoras  to  Corpus  Christi, 
furnishes  inexhaustible  supplies  of  salt  formed  by  solar  evap- 
oration, to  all  who  choose  to  gather  it  at  the  water's  edge,  so 
as  to  require  no  expense  of  land  transportation.  Surely  to 
Texians  salt  should  not  be  expensive  to  whom  it  is  furnished 
in  creeks,  lakes,  and  islands,  in  the  interior  and  on  the  coast. 


93  THE    CLIMATE    OF    TEXAS 


CLIMATE,    SOIL,   ETC. 


CHAPTER   VII. 

Texas  one  of  the  healthiest  regions  of  America. — Causes  of  the  winter 
'Northers' — their  arid  character  and  general  influence.  —  The  Gulf 
breezes  constant  visitants  throughout  the  summer. — Prairies  conducive  to 
health. — A  residence  in  Texas  highly  favorable  to  Consumptive  patients. 
— Several  remarkable  cases  of  cures  known  to  the  writer. — The  Soil  of 
Texas  not  excelled  by  any  other  portion  of  the  Globe. — Live  oak  trees. 
— Grape  Vines. — A  vineyard  soon  rendered  profitable. — Musquik  tree — 
Its  suitability  for  hedges. — All  the  fruits  peculiar  to  the  temperate  zone 

will  flourish  in  Texas. 

» 

CLIMATE. — In  this  department  of  a  description  of  Texas, 
there  is  some  danger  of  either  misleading  the  mind  of  the 
reader,  or  of  giving  but  an  imperfect  delineation  of  real  facts. 
Like  every  other  portion  of  the  globe,  the  climate  of  this  coun- 
try possesses  certain  advantages,  against  which,  however,  are 
to  be  set  off  some  drawbacks  and  inconveniences.' 

Whoever  would  represent  it  therefore  as  being  entirely  free 
from  all  the  evils  attendant  upon  the  cold  climates  of  the  North, 
of  the  hot  suns  between  the  tropics,  and  the  rapid  changes  of 
the  temperate  zone,  would  be  justly  chargeable  with  extrava- 
gance, if  not  with  misrepresentation.  Those  on  the  other 
hand,  who  would  assert  that  either  of  these  difficulties  existed 
here  in  a  degree  as  considerable  as  they  are  found  to  do  in 
tropical,  temperate,  or  high  northern  regions,  would  do  great 
injustice  to  the  character  of  the  country.  While,  therefore, 
we  reject  all  exaggeration  of  the  blessings  of  our  climate,  we 
would  equally  shun  all  improper  depreciation  of  its  merits, 


UNSURPASSED    FOR    HEALTH.  99 

Though  this  republic  boasts  not  of  the  character  of  a 
Mohammedan  paradise,  enjoying  all  the  delights  of  perpetual 
Spring,  and  perpetual  Autumn,  when  fruits  and  flowers  mingle 
their  odors  in  continual  fragrance  and  profusion  ;  it  does  claim 
that  no  part  of  the  continent  is  more  favored  by  the  blandness 
of  its  breezes,  the  pleasantness  of  its  temperature,  the  bright- 
ness of  its  skies,  or  salubrity  of  its  atmosphere.  Varying  ac- 
cording to  its  latitude  and  elevation  in  the  degree  of  its  heat 
and  cold,  some  parts  bordering  nearly  upon  the  tropics,  while 
others  pass  considerably  into  the  temperate  regions.  None  of 
it  however  is  either  so  elevated,  or  so  far  from  the  equator,  as  to 
feel  the  rigors  of  a  snowy  winter,  or  lose  the  advantages  of 
the  great  southern  staple,  the  cotton  crop. 

"  The  whole  country,  consisting  of  one  vast  inclined  plain, 
with  a  southern  exposure,  the  beds  of  whose  streams  are  deep, 
with  high  banks  entirely  free  from  marshes,  and  from  stagnant 
or  putrid  water,  and  most  of  the  country  open  prairie,  over 
which  the  breezes  blow  with  the  freedom  of  ocean  winds,  it 
enjoys  an  exemption  from  causes  of  disease  scarcely  exampled, 
and  a  freshness  of  the  air  no  where  surpassed.  This  inclina- 
tion to  the  south  drains  the  country  of  its  superfluous  waters, 
presents  its  whole  surface  to  the  sea  breezes  as  they  come 
from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  render  the  climate  several  de- 
grees warmer  and  better  fitted  for  tropical  and  southern  crops 
than  a  northern  exposure  could  do. 

Though  in  the  lower  latitudes  the  heats  of  summer  must 
be  considerable,  ranging  as  high  as  average  of  85°  Fahrenheit, 
it  is  believed  by  good  judges  that  this  is  in  no  degree  injurious 
to  health,  except  in  the  vicinity  of  dams,  swamps,  or  other 
local  causes  of  disease.  It  will  probably  be  found  upon  the 
fullest  investigation,  that  southern  climates,  unless  in  the 
neighborhood  of  decaying  animal  or  vegetable  substances,  are 
quite  as  favorable  to  health  and  longevity  as  any  other  parts  of 
the  world.  In  them  it  is  true  decomposition  of  bodies  is  more 
rapid,  and  hence  their  influence  upon  the  atmosphere  is  more 


100  THE    NORTH    WINDS. 

severe  than  where  this  process  is  gradual.  Exempt  from  such 
sources  of  disease,  and  little  subject  to  pulmonary  affections, 
there  is  much  reason  to  expect  Texas  will  continue  as  she  is, 
one  of  the  healthiest  regions  of  America. 

In  most  parts  of  Texas  the  only  seasons  which  can  be 
regarded  as  cold,  continue  but  for  a  day  or  two  at  a  time,  while 
the  north  or  northwest  wind  blows  freshly  over  the  plains. 
At  these  times  but  little  ice  or  frost  is  found,  even  when  they 
are  the  most  severe,  which  disappears  upon  the  first  exposure 
to  the  rays  of  the  sun  or  influence  of  a  southern  breeze. 

The  source  of  these  winds  here  technically  styled  North- 
ers,  is  the  highlands  or  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Red  and 
Grand  river,  which,  being  much  more  dense  than  the  rari- 
fied  atmosphere  of  the  more  southern  and  lower  regions,  rush 
.  down  the  gentle  slope  over  the  smooth  prairies,  and  become 
dispersed  among  the  vapors  that  rise  between  the  tropics. 
The  change  produced  by  them  in  the  atmosphere  here  is  sen- 
sible and  very  sudden.  They  seem  to  be  quite  arid,  and  to  dry 
up  all  moisture  of  the  skin,  and  induce  an  exceedingly  rapid 
evaporation  of  such  waters  as  have  previously  fallen  from  the 
clouds.  Their  effects  however  are  seldom  injurious,  and  in 
general  they  tend  much  to  the  purification  and  salubrity  of  the 
air. 

Immediately  following  these,  for  they  occur  only  in  win- 
ter, ensues  either  a  season  of  calm,  sunny  and  pleasant  wea- 
ther, in  which  the  ploughman  finds  a  convenient  season  for  fal- 
lowing his  lands,  or  soft  southern  winds  more  resembling  those 
of  a  northern  summer  evening  than  of  winter's  severity. 

In  even  the  severest  of  these  northers,  cattle  seem  to  re- 
quire no  other  shelter  than  the  protection  of  a  neighboring 
grove,  and  often  disregarding  that,  they  are  found  feeding  or 
resting  upon  the  open  prairie. 

From  March  to  October  may  be  regarded  as  the  Texian 
summer,  between  which  months  the  weather  is  warm,  vegeta- 
tion grows  with  vigor,  and  all  kinds  of  crops  are  brought  to 
perfection.  During  this  season  comparatively  little  rain  falls. 


BREEZES  FROM  THE  GLLF.  101 

though  in  most  seasons  showers  are  of  frequent  occurrence, 
and  the  heat  of  the  plains  produces  such  a  rarefaction  as  in 
turn  induces  a  fresh  and  almost  constant  sea  breeze  from  the 
Gulf. 

From  the  openness  and  evenness  of  the  surface  of  the 
country,  this  breeze  is  felt  far  in  the  interior,  a  circumstance 
which  distinguishes  Texas  from  any  other  country.  So 
strong  too  is  the  current  of  these  winds,  that  writers,  whether 
clerks  or  authors,  would  do  well  to  have  their  papers  well  se- 
cured, lest  they  should  be  widely  disseminated  even  before 
publication.  With  few  and  slight  intermissions  from  calms  or 
winds  from  other  quarters,  these  last  throughout  the  summer, 
and  are  represented  by  the  residents  of  the  country  as  being 
delightfully  pleasaiit,  refreshing  and  producing  a  gentle  exhil* 
aration  of  spirits. 

Among  other  reasons  why  the  climate  of  Texas  has  proved, 
and  will  continue  to  be  less  exposed  to  summer  and  autumnal 
fevers,  than  most  other  countries,  is  found  in  the  number  and 
extent  of  her  prairies.  Wherever  the  new  settler  in  Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee,  Alabama,  or  elsewhere,  has  entered  the 
dense  forest,  broken  in  upon  the  vegetable  accumulation  of 
centuries,  and  stopped  at  once  the  absorbing  action  of  all  the 
foliage,  the  consequence  has  invariably  been  intermittent  or 
other  more  malignant  fevers,  marking  the  progress  of  improve^ 
ment  by  the  pale  countenances,  weakness  and  death  of  the 
pioneers. 

From  these  and  such  disasters,  the  emigrant  to  this  coun-- 
try,  except  those  who  invade  the  timbered  bottoms,  are  almost 
wholly  exempt.  Settling  himself  upon  the  rich  prairie,  and 
turning  all  the  vegetable  matter  upon  his  land  under  the  fur- 
row, no  malaria  arises  from  decayed  and  decaying  masses  of 
leaves,  timber,  and  souring  sap  of  myriads  of  trees.  The 
settler  and  his  family  enjoy  entire  health,  and  can  gather  the 
first  year  of  their  residence  upon  the  soil,  a  generous  reward, 
of  their  toils. 


102  .      SPANISH    MOSS. 

Even  the  bottoms  of  the  rivers,  which  are  covered  with 
cane  and  lofty  timber,  though  less  healthful  and  salubrious 
than  the  prairies,  are  not  subject  to  diseases  of  such  malig- 
nancy and  mortality,  as  frequently  visit  the  new  settlements 
along  the  southern  rivers  of  the  United  States.  The  reason 
for  this  is  found  in  the  fact,  that  these  streams  seldom  over- 
flow, and  when  they  do,  the  waters  soon  subside,  and  leave 
no  pools  or  marshes  to  putrefy  and  exhale  contagion  round 
them. 

As,  however,  diseases  have  to  some  extent  pervaded  among 
and  in  the  vicinity  of  these  forests,  it  has  been  conjectured 
that  their  presence,  especially  when  clothed  with  the  long  or 
Spanish  moss,  (Tillandsia  Usneoides*)  is  productive  of  a  state 
of  the  atmosphere  unfavorable  to  health.  Probably  however, 
the  true  cause  is  found  in  the  effect  of  deadening,  or  other- 
wise killing  the  timber,  whose  foliage  had  previously  absorbed 
or  decomposed  the  infectious  ingredient  of  the  air.  If  this 
latter  opinion  be  correct,  even  the  little  disease  found  along 
the  bottoms  of  the  streams  may  be  expected  to  disappear,  as 
the  settlements  become  dense  and  the  lands  are  cleared. 

Another  temporary  cause  of  disease,  is  the  use,  for  domestic 
purposes,  of  the  water  of  rivers  and  creeks.  Many  of  the 
late  emigrants  settling  in  the  level  parts  of  the  country, 
being  without  natural  springs,  are  induced  to  use  for  every 
purpose  the  water  of  the  nearest  stream  or  bayou,  though  of  a 
quality  far  less  desirable  than  well  water.  This  source,  if 
such  it  be,  of  sickness,  is  removeable  at  the  will  of  the  people, 
as  water  of  a  fine  character  can  usually  be  found  by  digging 
to  a  moderate  depth, 

*  This  parasitical,  or  rather  aerial  plant,  is  not  properly  a  moss,  as  «t  has 
a  small  but  perfectly  defined  flower  and  pericarp,  with  numerous  small  seeds, 
to  each  of  which  is  appended  a  tuft  of  a  substance  resembling  fine  sea  island 
cotton,  by  the  aid  of  which,  it  is  presumed,  the  winds  disseminate  it  through 
the  forest.  From  a  careful  examination  of  facts,  it  is  nearly  certain  that  its 
roots  merely  sustain  it  in  its  position  without  giving  it  any  nourishment. 


DISEASES    OF    THE    CHEST    CURED.  103 

It  is  asserted  by  persons  of  high  respectability,  that  pools  or 
other  stagnant  waters  are  never  covered  with  the  green  slime, 
which  is  so  common  and  so  offensive  in  most  of  the  ponds  and 
sluggish  streams  in  many  parts  of  the  United  States.  In  all 
the  undulating  region,  and  especially  in  the  mountainous  part 
of  Texas,  springs  of  limpid  and  cool  water  are  very  frequent ; 
so  much  so  that  no  part  of  them  need  suffer  for  excellent 
drinking  water  in  any  season  of  the  year.  Facts  like  these 
must  satisfy  the  most  incredulous,  that  in  point  of  pleasantness 
of  temperature  and  general  salubrity,  the  climate  of  Texas  is 
as  inviting  as  that  of  any  other  country. 

In  the  opinion  of  respectable  physicians  and  others,  a  resi- 
dence in  this  country  would  be  as  likely  to  mitigate  or  relieve 
pulmonary  and  consumptive  affections,  as  any  part  of  the 
South  of  Europe,  or  of  the  West  Indies.  Several  striking 
cases  of  entire  relief  from  these  diseases  are  stated  by  per^ 
sons  of  the  highest  intelligence  and  character.* 

One  of  these  is  a  gentleman,  whose  name  as  a  patriot  and 
statesman,  holds  a  distinguished  place  in  the  history  of  Texas. 
He  states  that  when  he  left  his  former  residence  in  the  United 
States,  his  frame  was  wasted  to  a  skeleton,  his  strength  was 
gone,  and  he  was  regarded  by  his  friends  as  in  the  last  stages 
of  consumption.  Since  that  time  he  has  fought  the  Indians 
and  Mexicans  in  various  campaigns ;  suffered  in  common 
with  other  Texians  the  evils  attendant  upon  flight,  exposure 
and  exile  ;  but  now,  in  the  enjoyment  of  vigorous  health,  ex- 
ercises a  powerful  influence  over  the  councils  of  his  adopted 
country. 

Another  instance  is  of  a  physician,  who  had  spent  several 
years  in  France,  and  found  no  advantage  from  the  celebrated 
salubrity  of  parts  of  that  country.  By  the  advice  of  the  Texian 
minister  near  that  court,  he  came  about  a  year  since  to  Texas, 
and  has  so  far  improved  in  health,  as  to  look  forward  with  fair 
prospects  of  final  and  complete  restoration. 

Numerous  other  instances  are  related  by  the  subjects  of  the 


104  VARIOUS    SOILS. 

disease  themselves  or  their  immediate  relatives,  who,  from 
pining  and  despairing  weakness,  accompanied  with  bleeding 
of  the  lungs,  no\v  enjoy  a  health  apparently  as  sound  and 
vigorous  as  any  others. 

SOIL. — In  relation  to  the  character  and  productions  of  its 
soil,  perhaps  no  country  offers  a  greater  variety  that  is  valu- 
able, a  larger  proportion  of  that  which  is  fertile,  or  any 
that  can  surpass  some  of  the  bottoms  and  level  prairies  of 
Texas. 

In  its  different  portions  are  found  almost  every  variety,  in- 
cluding alluvial,  level,  undulating  and  mountainous,  which 
latter  portions  are  all  of  secondary  formation,  the  debris  of 
whose  rocks,  as  well  as  other  parts  of  the  elevations,  form  what 
are  called  calcareous  and  most  valuable  land,  embracing 
sandy,  clayey,  rocky  and  pebbly  earths,  with  shades  of  their 
intermixtures. 

With  few  extensive  exceptions,  Texas  is  a  prairie  country, 
whose  streams,  rivulets  and  creeks,  as  well  as  rivers,  in  their 
meandering  courses,  skirt  these  native  meadows  with  wood- 
land and  forests  of  various  width  and  extent.  The  causes  for 
the  absence  of  timber  on  these  plains,  are  not  found  in  the 
unfitness  of  the  soil  for  their  production,  or  the  want  of  roots 
or  seeds  by  which  they  might  be  propagated.  The  true 
reason  in  most  cases  is,  that  from  the  fertility  o.f  the  growth 
of  grass  and  other  herbage,  it  is  so  luxuriant,  that  when  in 
autumn,  by  accident  or  design,  the  fire  gets  into  it,  it  burns 
with  a  heat  sufficiently  intense  to  kill  all  the  young  timber 
and  underwood  among  which  it  grows.  In  those  places 
where  the  land  is  poor,  and  the  herbage  less  abundant,  trees, 
whose  bark  is  thick,  endure  the  fire  and  grow  into  forests. 
Hence  it  appears,  that  the  absence  of  timber  and  shrubbery 
upon  a  plain,  or  the  sloping  acclivities  of  hills,  furnishes  no 
indication  of  its  barrenness,  but,  on  the  contrary,  gives  evi- 
dence of  the  prolific  character  of  the  ground. 


STTGAR    AND    COTTON.  105 

Seen  at  a  distance  from  an  eminence,  these  prairies,  fringed 
along  their  sides  by  the  woods  and  vines  that  line  the  banks  of 
the  creeks,  and  occasionally  studded  with  the  copses  of  tim- 
ber called  islands,  either  upon  the  summits  of  low  hills,  or 
marking  the  point  where  springs  arise,  wear  the  appearance  of 
fields,  meadows,  lawns,  and  woodland,  formed  by  art  and  in- 
dustry, and  exhibiting  what  would  be  regarded  as  the  fruit  of 
taste  and  refinement. 

The  eastern  section  of  the  country  contains  a  larger  por- 
tion of  timbered  land  than  most  other  parts,  except  the  cross- 
timbers.  Here  are  found  pine,  oak,  ash,  cedar,  elm,  cypress, 
and  other  forest  trees,  extending  even  to  the  northern  border 
of  the  republic,  affording,  it  is  believed,  ample  materials  for 
all  purposes  of  fencing  and  building.  The  soil,  though  vary- 
ing in  character,  is  adapted  both  to  grazing  and  agriculture. 
Near  the  gulf,  and  for  some  distance  in  the  interior,  as  in  all 
the  southern  parts  of  Texas,  the  land  is  well  fitted  for  the> 
cultivation  of  the  sugar  cane,  as  well  as  for  cotton. 

From  the  little  experience  yet  acquired,  the  evidence  is 
uniform,  that  the  cane  here  grown  is  more  luxuriant,  ripens 
more  fully,  and  developes  the  saccharine  juice  in  greater  per- 
fection and  abundance  than  in  most  parts  of  Louisiana.  The 
cotton  of  this  region  also  is  said  to  be  finer,  more  silky,  and 
of  a  longer  staple  than  in  most  parts  of  the  United  States,  and 
to  command  a  higher  price  in  market.  Certainly  some  fine- 
specimens  of  Texian  cotton  have  been  shown  us,  which,  if 
they  are  fair  samples  of  the  whole,  would  justify  the  forego- 
ing statement.  Farther  north,  cotton  must  be  the  principal 
production  for  exportation,  and  for  this  almost  every  portion  of 
the  country  is  admirably  adapted.  Except  along  the  rivers, 
the  north-eastern  portion  of  the  country  is  thought  to  be  less 
productive  than  other  sections,  but  still  abundantly  profita- 
ble under  the  judicious  cultivation  of  skilful  cotton  planters. 

From  the  Brazos  westward  to  the  Colorado,  including  the 
Caney  and  other  creeks,  the  lands  in  the  level  region  appear 


106          SALT  CONDUCIVE  TO  VEGETATION. 

to  partake  of  similar  characteristics,  and  to  resemble  each 
other  in  color,  fertility  and  natural  productions.  Much  of  this 
land  is  of  a  reddish  cast,  though  darkened  by  the  admixture 
of  other  kinds  of  earth  and  vegetable  mould.  Some  portion 
of  salt  is  believed  to  be  mingled  with  this  kind  of  alluvion, 
and  to  that  circumstance,  and  the  quantity  of  nitre  evidently 
mingled  with  it,  is  attributed  some  part  of  its  astonishing  fer- 
tility. 

The  Guadaloupe,  and  the  streams  lying  westward  of  it  to 
Neuces,  (river  of  Nuts,)  all  afford  considerable  bottoms  of 
deep  black  alluvial  earth,  well  clothed  with  timber,  and  ex- 
ceedingly fertile.  All  the  southern  parts  of  this  extended  re- 
gion are  well  adapted  to  sugar  cane,  and  would  be  found  no 
way  inferior  to  the  very  best  sugar  lands  in  Louisiana,  and 
much  preferable  to  any  which  lie  above  New  Orleans.  At 
present  however  it  is  not  desirable  that  any  other  considerable 
crop  than  grain  and  provisions  should  be  cultivated  in  Texas, 
as  all  that  can  for  several  years  be  produced  will  no  more  than 
supply  the  wants  of  the  innumerable  emigrants,  who  crowd 
to  her  shores  from  Germany  and  England,  as  well  as  from  the 
United  States, 

Farther  from  the  coast,  and  towards  the  sources  of  these 
streams,  the  land  becomes  more  elevated,  but  still  abundantly 
fertile,  and  fitted  to  produce,  in  addition  to  corn,  cotton,  figs,  etc. 
all  the  grains  and  fruits  of  the  temperate  zone.  In  this  region 
most  of  the  land,  except  the  bottoms  of  the  rivers,  partakes,  in 
some  degree,  of  an  argillaceous,  and  calcareous  character, 
mixed  with  a  greater  or  less  portion  of  sand.  It  is  sufficient- 
ly firm  for  every  agricultural  purpose,  and  yet  friable  enough 
to  be  easily  wrought  by  the  plough.  Such  soils,  it  is  well 
known  in  northern  parts  of  the  United  States,  are  among  the 
very  best  for  wheat,  and  for  apples  and  pears.  It  is  hence  in- 
ferred, that  on  these  grounds  these  products  might  be  success- 
fully cultivated. 

But  theory  like  this  is  not   the  only  ground  on  which  to 


LIVE    OAK.  •    107 

rest  these  conclusions.  The  experiment  has  been  in  some 
degree  made,  and  though  in  one  case  the  rust  lessened  the 
value  of  the  wheat  crop,  it  grew  finely,  and,  but  for  a  season 
of  rain,  just  before  ripening,  would  probably  have  equalled 
the  best  crops  of  the  kind  in  Indiana  or  Ohio.  Apple  and 
pear  trees  grow  well  here,  and  no  reason  is  known  why  they 
may  not  at  maturity  produce  their  fruit  in  perfection. 

From  the  bay  of  Matagorda  to  the  western  part  of  Galves- 
ton  bay,  and  into  the  interior  along  the  banks  of  the  Brazos 
and  Colorado,  for  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  the 
live  oak  abounds.  Near  the  sea  coast  it  grows  to  a  great 
size,  and  frequently  exhibits  a  beautiful  shaft  of  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  in  length.  Farther  inland  it  usually  throws  out  its 
large  branches  near  the  ground.  This  tree,  the  cedar,  and 
some  others,  usually  indicate  that  the  soil  where  they  abound 
is  in  some  degree  calcareous. 

Among  the  trees  found  upon  the  river  bottoms,  the  largest 
and  most  majestic  is  the  cotton  wood,  a  species  of  the  poplar, 
(populus  elatior,  forlasse,)  the  timber  of  which  is  light,  and 
has  been  regarded  of  little  value.  Rails  made  of  the  heart  of 
it  however  are  quite  durable,  and  beginning  to  be  held  in  con- 
siderable estimation. 

Among  the  uplands,  in  addition  to  the  prairies,  there  are  many 
considerably  extensive  tracts  of  comparatively  open  timbered 
land,  technically  called  post  oak  lands.  These  are  seldom  dense 
forests,  but  rather  resemble  thickly  set  orchards.  The  timber 
is  mostly  post  oak,  interspersed  with  black  jack,  and  an  occa- 
sional hickory  or  elm.  The  land  is  usually  elevated,  fre- 
quently quite  level  and  covered  with  grass.  This  kind  seems 
to  be  regarded  of  inferior  quality,  though  in  some  places  the 
long  arid  thick  grass  indicate  great  productiveness.  Again 
there  are  found  elevated  ridges  of  very  poor  land,  upon  which 
the  grass  is  thin  and  of  feeble  growth,  not  sufficiently  vigor- 
ous to  produce  a  fire  that  will  destroy  the  young  timber.  Upon 
these  some  valuable  pine  timber  is  found,  but  all  other  trees 


108  MUS<4UIT    TREE. 

seem  stunted  and  are  too  small  and  shrubby  for  any  use  but  fire- 
wood. 

Among  the  elevated  lands  at  a  distance  from  the  coast, 
both  among  the  post  oaks  and  on  the  prairies,  are  frequent 
patches,  some  of  great  extent,  nearly  covered  with  clusters  of 
indigenous  grape  vines.  Where  the  fire  has  not  reached  these 
for  two  or  three  years,  they  acquire  considerable  size,  and 
produce  with  astonishing  fruitfulness.  There  are  several  va- 
rieties of  them,  most  of  which  are-  of  fine  flavor  for  the 
table,  and  would  probably  make  a  v  aluable  wine  or  raisins. 
Whatever  may  be  their  specific  qualities,  they  clearly  prove 
the  adaptedness  of  the  soil  for  vineyards.  A  vineyard  of 
much  profit  might  be  formed  almost  at  once  by  grafting  choice 
varieties  of  the  grape  upon  these  native  roots. 

Perhaps  no  country  offers  better  prospects,  to  vine  dressers, 
than  this.  In  various  places  also  among  the  thick  shrubbery 
upon  the  low  prairies,  and  climbing  to  the  tops  of  the  tall  for- 
est trees  of  the  river  bottoms,  are  found  innumerable  grape 
vines,  but  their  fruit  seems  to  be  held  in  less  estimation  than 
those  among  the  hills  and  post  oaks. 

Among  the  rich  prairies  of  the  upper  Colorado,  and  along 
most  of  the  low  prairies  near  the  rivers  in  the  western  part  of 
this  country,  we  find  the  musquit  tree,  a  variety  of  the  aca- 
cia, or  locust  family.  Like  other  trees  of  this  genus  its  flower 
is  papilionaceous,  and  its  fruit  a  bean,  growing  like  other 
beans  in  a  pod.  This  bean  is  said  to  be  quite  valuable  for  hogs 
and  cattle,  who  freely  eat  it,  and  thrive  upon  it  nearly  as  well 
as  upon  Indian  corn.  This  tree  is  armed,  like  others  of  its 
family  with  spines,  is  exceedingly  tenacious  of  life,  sprouting 
up  from  the  root,  though  its  whole  top  has  been  killed  by  fire 
a  hundred  times  in  succession. 

Its  timber,  where  it  can  be  found  of  sufficient  size,  is  ex- 
ceedingly valuable  for  posts  or  other  purposes  where  hardness 
and  durability  are  required,  both  of  which  qualities  it  possesses 
in  a  high  degree.  From  all  these  qualities,  it  has  been  suggested 


MUSQUIT    GRASS.  109 

that  it  would  make  a  most  valuable  and  durable  hedge.  Its 
character  for  this  purpose  has  not  been  tested,  but  little  doubt 
can  exist,  that  a  hedge  of  it,  when  once  complete,  would  re- 
quire little  labor,  be  perfectly  effectual  as  a  fence,  and  as  per- 
manent as  any  fence  of  the  kind  whatever. 

In  the  same  regions  is  also  found  the  musquit*  grass,  a 
plant  much  resembling  the  spear  or  blue  grass  of  the  United 
States.  It  is  said  to  grow  quite  vigorously,  to  be  highly  nu- 
tritious, much  sought  after  by  cattle  and  horses,  and  to  retain 
its  greenness  and  nutritive  qualities  during  the  winter.  Even 
when  frosts  of  uncommon  severity,  as  is  sometimes  the  case, 
have  caused  the  upper  leaves  to  fade  and  turn  downward,  it 
seems  to  lose  neither  its  flavor  nor  value  in  the  estimation  of 
the  cattle,  who  continue  to  seek  for  it  and  eat  it  with  unabated 
avidity.  Certain  it  is,  where  this  grass  abounds  cattle  lose 
nothing  of  their  fatness  and  vigor  during  the  winter,  and  are 
frequently  driven  up  from  the  prairies  at  all  seasons  of  the 
year  to  be  butchered  and  sent  to  market. 

That  portion  of  Texas  which  is  called  the  mountainous  or 
hilly  part,  with  the  exception  of  the  higher  parts  of  the  hills, 
is  rich  and  abundantly  fitted  for  the  production  of  grain,  hemp, 
grass,  etc.  The  valleys  along  the  streams  are  believed  to 
equal  in  fertility  any  part  of  the  United  States,  and  both  hill 
and  valley  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  production  of  apples, 
pears,  quinces,  plums,  peaches,  and  every  other  fruit  found  in 
the  temperate  zone. 

This  may  not  unlikely  become  the  granary  and  hemp  dis- 
trict of  the  Republic,  and  from  its  advantages  in  hydraulic 
power,  may  well  furnish  the  rest  of  the  people  with  manufac- 
tures. 


*  Why  these  two  valuable  productions  should  be  designated  by  a  name 
signifying  musquitoe,  is  to  the  writer  unknown.  They  certainly  merit  much 
more  honorable  titles,  especially  as  much  of  the  country  where  they  grow 
this  insect  is  almost  unknown. 

10 


110  LANDS    ON    THE    TRINITY. 

In  giving  an  account  of  the  soils  of  Texas,  we  think  pro- 
per to  annex  the  following  description  of  a  section  of  the 
country,  which  is  fast  filling  up  with  a  desirable  population, 
•whose  prospects  bid  fair,  from  the  fertility  of  its  lands  and 
commercial  advantages,  to  become  a  most  important  portion  of 
the  Republic.  The  writer's  views  and  conclusions  accord 
fully  with  our  own,  and  they  will  doubtless  be  verified  in  their 
results.  It  was  penned  by  an  intelligent  traveller  two  or 
three  years  since,  who  is  now,  we  are  informed,  a  resident 
of  the  section  of  country  described. 

"  Early  in  April  we  reached  the  Trinity,  a  beautiful  river 
\vhich  has  its  source  near  Red  river,  and  flows  through  a 
magnificent  country  till  it  reaches  the  bay,  near  Galveston,  in 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  This  region,  which  has  hitherto  been 
somewhat  overlooked  in  the  great  struggle  for  lands  farther 
west,  is  now  attracting  much  attention,  and  is  among  the  most 
desirable  and  important  in  the  Republic.  Its  rich  cotton  and 
grazing  lands  have  caught  the  eye  of  the  planter,  and  they 
will  soon  be  occupied  and  form  the  most  valuable  settlements 
in  the  country. 

The  Trinity  river  affords  the  best  steamboat  navigation  in 
Texas.  Boats  have  already  ascended  to  New  Cincinnati  and 
Osceola,  and  can  easily  go  to  the  Three  Forks,  in  the  mineral 
region,  some  two  or  three  hundred  miles  above.  This  is  a 
district  of  remarkable  fertility  and  beauty.  That  portion  of  it 
embracing  the  counties  of  Montgomery,  Houston,  and  Robin- 
son, is  now  settling  rapidly,  and  with  great  advantages  and 
facilities  for  trade  and  navigation,  must  remain  unrivalled  for 
many  years  to  come.  The  valleys  of  the  Trinity  present 
some  of  the  richest  soil  and  most  beautiful  landscape  scenery 
in  the  south-west.  Her  rich  meadows  and  high  rolling  prair- 
ies are  uncommonly  beautiful ;  and  no  Roman  principality,  no 
German  barony,  or  English  manor,  can  surpass  in  beauty  and 
magnificence  some  of  the  princely  estates  in  this  region.  It 
affords  the  best  grazing  district  on  earth  ;  .and  wheat,  among 


SALINILLA    SPRINGS.  Ill 

other  various  products,  grows  there  as  luxuriantly  as  in  New 
England  or  Canada.  On  one  farm,  not  far  from  the  river,  in 
Houston  county,  may  be  seen  a  crop  of  wheat  already  har- 
vested, the  beginning  of  June,  with  rich  fields  of  cotton,  com 
and  tobacco,  rye,  barley  and  oats  ranged  side  by  side  each 
other,  and  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes  keeping  loving  company 
together  throughout  the  land. 

Large  herds  of  deer  and  wild  cattle  are  common.  Fish  are 
abundant  in  the  lakes  and  rivers,  and  thousands  of  wild  horses 
ramble  about,  and  graze  upon  the  surrounding  hills  and  prair- 
ies which  overlook  the  valleys  of  corn.  Sheep  do  well  here 
even  upon  the  prairie  grass,  and  horses,  and  cattle,  and  mules 
are  raised  at  least  50  per  cent  cheaper  than  in  any  part  of  the 
United  States. 

Garden  vegetables  of  every  description  are  easily  cultivated, 
and  yield  in  the  greatest  profusion.  Many  of  the  fruits  of  the 
tropics,  and  those  of  the  north,  grow  luxuriantly.  The  fig, 
peach,  nectarine,  grape  and  quince  are  equally  prolific,  and 
produce  excellent  fruit.  The  mulberry  is  indigenous  to  the 
country,  and  the  rearing  of  silk  worms  will  become  an  easy 
and  profitable  branch  of  agriculture.  A  great  variety  of  ber- 
ries and  nuts  grow  wild  and  in  the  greatest  profusion.  The 
pecan  is  very  abundant.  The  pawpaw  grows  wild,  and  pro- 
duces a  large,  pulpy  and  luscious  fruit.  The  orange,  lemon 
and  pine  may  be  made  to  ripen  with  a  little  care. 

This  region  of  country  is  eminently  healthy.  It  is  beauti- 
fully  supplied  with  springs  of  the  purest  water,  and  the  air  is 
always  fresh  either  from  the  mountains  or  sea.  This  must 
soon  become  the  resort  of  rich  invalids  and  the  man  of  leisure 
from  the  Southern  cities,  on  account  of  its  double  charms  of 
salubrity  of  atmosphere  and  picturesque  scenery.  The  dis- 
covery of  the  Salinilla  Springs,  both  sulphur  and  chalybeate, 
must  insure  a  rapid  and  permanent  settlement  of  this  inte- 
resting district 

are  in  demand  here,  and  can  be  had,  just  now,  from 


112  IROV,  LEAD,  COAL,  ETC. 

two  to  five  dollars  per  acre  ;  but  how  long  will  it  be  before 
they  advance  to  fifty  dollars  ?  Is  it  possible  that  lands  yield- 
ing two  bales  of  cotton,  or  two  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  tobac- 
co, one  hundred  bushels  of  corn,  two  or  three  tons  of  hay, 
forty  bushels  of  whe'at  and  seventy  of  oats,  and  five  hundred 
ditto  of  potatoes  per  acre,  and  only  two  days  transportation  to 
New  Orleans,  can  be  worth  less  than  fifty  dollars  ?  Here  is 
plenty  of  timber  and  good  water.  The  land  is  high  and  roll- 
ing, easy  and  pleasant  to  cultivate,  yielding  to  the  industrious 
farmer  an  abundant  reward  for  his  labor,  and  producing  every 
thing  incident  to  the  climate  in  the  greatest  profusion,  and 
with  an  ease  to  the  cultivator  that  would  appear  incredible  to 
people  of  the  northern  states,  who  are  accustomed  to  a  land 
of  sterile  soil  and  severe  climate. 

In  addition  to  all  this,  there  are  inexhaustible  beds  of  stone 
coal,  limestone  and  freestone  of  a  beautiful  color  and  texture, 
and  easily  dressed  for  building.  Some  valuable  salines  are 
found  here,  which  will  be  sources  of  wealth  to  the  coun- 
try, and  large  quantities  of  salt  of  superior  quality,  can  be 
manufactured  for  home  consumption  or  shipped  to  Galveston 
and  New  Orleans. 

Some  of  the  pipe-clay  in  the  coal  formations,  will  answer 
well  for  pottery  and  stone-ware.  Iron  is  found  here,  on  the 
Trinity,  and  is  said  to  be  very  good.  The  lead  mines  near  the 
upper  forks  of  the  river,  will  be  immensely  valuable.  The 
metal  is  found  as  pure  and  abundant  as  at  Galena  and  Dubu- 
que. 

What  inducements  are  here  given  to  the  skilful  cultivator  of 
the  soil ;  what  prospects  of  wealth  to  the  industrious  mechanic, 
and  what  a  wide  and  endless  field  for  speculation  to  the  man 
of  foresight  and  business !  If  he  would  carve  out  his  own 
fortune  at  the  expense  of  temporary  sacrifices,  in  preference 
to  fretting  away  his  existence  in  the  slavish  occupancy  of  an 
overstrained  competition,  let  him  turn  his  eyes  and  footsteps 
to  the  illimitable 


AGRICULTURE.  113 


PRODUCTIONS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


The  varied  uses  of  corn. — Irish  potatoes  indigenous. — Two  crops  of  corn 
can  usually  be  obtained  each  year. — Price  of  corn  in  1839-40. — Fine 
cotton  country. — Large  crops. — Sugar  cane — its  superiority  over  that  of 
the  United  States. — The  utility  and  healthfulness  of  Sugar. — The  culti- 
vation of  the  cane  not  confined  to  wealthy  farmers. — Method  of  cultiva- 
ting Sugar. — Rice  can  be  grown  to  great  profit. — Indigo  indigenous — 
Process  of  culture — its  manufacture  profitable. — Grapes — their  abun-^ 
dance — suitable  as  an  article  of  trade. — Flax  and  hemp. — Tobacco^— * 
Sweet  Potatoes — their  excellence. — Garden  vegetables^ 

As  these  are  very  various,  and  comprise  many  things  belong- 
ing to  different  departments  of  knowledge,  it  becomes  proper  to 
separate  our  remarks  into  "distinct  heads,  though  it  is  probable, 
we  shall  not  by  that  course  entirely  avoid  repeating  some 
things  already  before  the  reader. 

AGRICULTURAL. 

Of  these  we  have  already  said  much,  but  conclude  on  that 
account  not  to  forbear  a  somewhat  minute  notice  of  agriculture, 
as  it  is,  and  must  probably  become  in  a  comparatively  short 
time.  As  they  now  exist,  the  productions  of  Texian  agricul- 
ture are  very  few,  and  those  of  the  most  immediate  necessity 
to  the  husbandman  himself,  and  still  later  emigrants.  While 
all  that  his  most  active  industry  could  produce  of  the  single 
article  of  grain,  found  a  ready  market  at  his  own  door,  and  at 
almost  his  own  price,  and  while  the  necessities  of  the  newf 

10* 


114  GARDEN    CROPS. 

settlers  demanded  even  more  corn  than  the  older  inhabitants 
could  produce,  it  would  have  been  worse  than  useless  to  at- 
tempt the  extensive  cultivation  of  those  crops  which  were 
not  of  prime  necessity,  or  those  which  to  find  a  market  must 
incur  the  expense  of  transportation. 

To  these  causes  for  the  neglect  to  cultivate  sugar,  cotton, 
and  the  more  delicate  kinds  of  grain,  should  be  added,  that 
the  oldest  settlers  are  but  beginning  in  Texas ;  that  they  are 
but  just  emerging  from  a  war  that  poured  its  terrors  even  upon 
their  hearths  and  firesides,  that  their  roads  and  means  of  trans- 
portation are  both  imperfect,  and  that  mills  for  the  manufacture 
of  flour  are  not  yet  erected  in  the  country.  That  under  such 
circumstances  the  comparative  advantages  of  different  kinds 
of  agriculture  should  be  matter  of  mere  speculation,  will  not 
be  surprising  ;  that  any  experiments  have  been  made,  and  ma- 
ny improvements  proposed  and  in  part  executed,  will  show, 
that  in  this  country  no  difficulties  are  too  great  to  be  overcome, 
and  no  disasters  so  great  as  to  repress  the  spirit  of  enterprise. 

At  present  but  little  else  than  corn  and  rye,  and  very  little 
of  the  latter  grain,  are  cultivated  in  any  part  of  the  country. 
This  crop  gives  bread  to  the  family,  fattens  their  pork,  feeds 
their  working  horses  and  oxen,  and  furnishes  corn  blades, 
usually  called  fodder,  which  serve  here  all  the  purposes  of  hay 
in  the  northern  states.  Thus  this  one  single  article,  compri* 
ses  nearly  all  the  products  of  field  husbandry  throughout  the 
republic. 

Small  patches  of  sweet  potatoes,  (convolvulus  batiatata,) 
cabbages,  turnips,  which  are  here  surprisingly  prolific,  and 
Irish  potatoes  are  cultivated  as  semi-garden  crops  at  almost 
every  dwelling.  The  last  named  are  declared  to  be  found  in- 
digenous in  different  sections  of  the  country,  though  the  na- 
tive plants  are  believed  to  be  inferior  in  productiveness  and 
quality  to  those  which  have  been  introduced  from  abroad. 
Early  crops  of  this  invaluable  root  thrive  well,  but  those 
planted  late  seldom  thrive.  Turnips  retain  their  leaves  and 


SEASONS    FOR    PLANTING    CORN.  115 

freshness  and  continue  to  grow  through  the  whole   winter,  as 
does  also  the  large  leafed  mustard. 

In  some  few  instances,  small  fields  of  rye  are  seen,  most  of 
which  require  to  be  fed  down  in  winter  to  prevent  too  great  a 
luxuriance,  which,  without  this  precaution,  would  grow  too. 
large  and  fall  down.  In  some  places  abundant  crops  of  this 
grain  rewarded  the  labors  of  the  sower. 

The  time  of  planting  and  manner  of  cultivating  the  corn, 
crop  differs  materially  here  from  what  is  common  in  New 
York  and  the  eastern  states.  Two  crops  of  this  grain  are 
usually  planted  in  each  year;  one  of  them  about  the  middle  or 
latter  part  of  February,  the  other  late  in  June  or  about  the  first 
of  July.  When  the  young  corn  springs  up  it  is  customary, 
after  passing  the  plough  between  the  rows,  to  go  over  it  with 
the  hoe,  though  this  is  done  with  much  less  care  than  is  usual 
at  the  North.  After  this  the  plough  is  almost  the  only  instru- 
ment employed  in  nursing  the  growing  crop.  One  or  two 
dressings  of  this  kind,  being  the  only  attention  bestowed  upon 
it,  suffice  to  clear  it  of  weeds,  and  it  is  then  allowed  to  flourish 
or  pine  as  the  season  may  prove  favorable  or  otherwise. 

Did  the  planters  give  that  care  to  the  preparation  of  the 
ground,  the  weeding  and  other  attentions  bestowed  upon  this 
grain  in  New  England,  their  products  would  doubtless  be 
much  greater.  Cultivated  as  it  is,  it  frequently  yields  sixty 
or  seventy  bushels  to  an  acre,  though  this  is  greater  than  the 
average  crop. 

From  the  rapid  and  continuous  influx  of  emigrants  and  tra- 
vellers, the  price  of  this  grain  varied  the  last  winter  from  one 
to  three  dollars  a  bushel,  and  from  the  same  cause  will  un- 
questionably remain  high  for  several  years  to  come.  When, 
however,  the  number  of  producers  shall  equal  or  surpass  these 
strangers,  it  is  presumed  that  the  article  will  become  so  plenty 
as  materially  to  fall  in  price,  when  planters  will  turn  their  at- 
tention to  other  kinds  of  agriculture. 

Of  the  other  grains  little  need  be  said  here,  as  their  culti- 


116  LARGE  CROP  OF  COTTON. 

ration  has  hardly  been  commenced,  and  the  seasons  or 
methods  best  adapted  to  their  production  have  not  been  satis- 
factorily ascertained.  It  is  however  well  settled  that  in  the 
level  parts  of  the  country,  all  the  grains  except  wheat  and 
perhaps  buckwheat,  may  be  cultivated  with  entire  success. 

In  the  undulating  and  mountainous  portions  of  the  country, 
all  the  grains  may  be  produced  in  abundance,  and,  it  is  be- 
lieved, in  high  perfection.  Just  as  soon  as  mills  shall  be 
erected,  and  a  market  appear  for  them,  wheat,  rye  and  buck- 
wheat will  be  seen  waving  among  the  hills  that  bound  the 
valleys  upon  all  the  rivers  of  the  upper  country. 

Notwithstanding  the  high  price  of  corn,  and  the  difficulties 
attending  sending  cotton  to  market,  large  numbers  of  the 
planters  along  the  Brazos  and  elsewhere,  are  rearing  consider- 
able crops  of  that  great  staple  of  the  south.  That  this  country 
is  admirably  adapted  to  its  growth,  and  to  produce  it  of  excel- 
lent quality,  needs  no  other  proof  than  the  silken  delicacy  and 
length  of  its  staple,  and  the  fact  that  four  thousand  pounds  of 
seed  cotton,  (more  than  one  thousand  pounds  of  clean  cotton, 
fit  for  spinning)  have  been  obtained  upon  an  acre. 

Though  it  is  admitted  that  the  above  is  an  extraordinary 
crop,  it  is  believed  that  very  much  of  the  bottom  lands  of  the 
Brazos,  San  Bernard,  Caney,  and  Colorado,  will  not  unfre- 
quently  yield  three-fourths  of  that  quantity.  Such  crops,  it 
will  be  perceived,  even  at  low  prices,  produce  a  rich  reward 
for  industry,  and  prove  that  for  agricultural  purposes  Texas 
may  vie  with  the  most  favored  portions  of  the  earth. 

It  is  said  vthat  upon  prairie  land  which  is  just  broken  up,, 
cotton  succeeds  much  better  than  corn,  and  is  more  profi- 
table as  a  first  crop.  This,  if  true,  is  important,  and  wor- 
thy of  being  ascertained  by  clear  facts,  because  the  first 
year  of  a  settler's  residence  is  too  important  to  allow  him  to 
forfeit  any  of  his  advantages. 

When  the  country  shall  have  become  settled,  and  the  lands 
subdued  by  the  hand  of  industry,  there  is  no  doubt  that  cotton 


SUGAR    CANE.  117 

will  be  extensively  cultivated  in  this  republic,  and  that  Texas 
will  be  a  strong  competitor  with  her  parent  country  in  the 
markets  of  Europe. 

With  equal  amounts  of  the  material,  and  of  superior  quality, 
she  will  claim  the  full  share  of  mercantile  consideration,  and 
hold  a  rank  in  commercial  transactions  equal  to  older  nations,, 
whose  territories  cover  far  more  extended  regions.  As  yet, 
however,  this  branch  of  agriculture  is  but  beginning,  though 
several  new  and  large  cotton  gins  have  been  erected  within 
the  year,  and  others  are  contemplated. 

SUGAR  CANE,  like  most  other  crops,  has  heretofore  re« 
ceived  but  little  attention,  and  very  few  and  small  fields  have 
been  cultivated.  Enough  however  has  been  done,  to  prove 
that  all  the  level  parts  of  Texas,  and  probably  most  of  the  level 
prairies  of  the  western  rivers,  are  capable  of  producing  it  in 
abundance  and  high  perfection.  Where  it  has  been  planted 
along  the  Brazos,  it  has  grown  with  a  luxuriance  and  to  a  size 
unknown  among  the  river  bottoms  of  Louisiana.  It  is  asserted 
also,  that  a  greater  length  of  stalk  matures  its  saccharine  juice,, 
and  that  this  juice  is  richer  than  is  found  on  the  Mississippi. 

The  comparative  superiority  of  Texian  sugar  cane  over  that 
of  the  United  States,  is  declared  by  so  many  witnesses,  and 
those  of  such  high  respectability,  as  to  remove  all  doubt  of  its 
truth.  One  gentleman,  whose  plantation  is  some  distance 
from  the  coast,  the  last  year  planted  a  small  field  of  cane  as 
an  experiment,  from  which  in  the  fall,  besides  a  sufficiency 
for  planting  again,  he  obtained  an  abundance  of  excellent 
sugar  for  his  family,  and  a  small  surplus  which  he  readily  sold 
to  his  friends  in  the  neighborhood.  The  result  of  this  trial 
induced  him  to  make  preparation  for  considerably  enlarging 
his  cane  fields  the  ensuing  season. 

Not  only  the  bottoms,  but  rich  uplands  it  is  presumed  wili 
be  found  suitable  for  the  cultivation  of  this  noble  vegetable. 
Indeed,  in  soils  of  equal  richness  dry  uplands  will  probably 
produce  sugar  of  better  quality  if  not  in  greater  abundance*. 


118  HEALTHFUL    EFFECTS    OF    SUGAR. 

Of  the  value  of  this  plant  it  is  difficult  for  persons  unacquainted 
with  its  culture  to  form  a  just  conception.  For  every  domes- 
tic animal,  as  well  as  for  man,  it  forms  a  favorite  article  of 
food  ;  cattle,  hogs,  horses  and  goats  feeding  and  fattening 
upon  it  with  great  rapidity.  To  all  of  them  it  seems  to  be 
equally  pleasant,  healthful  and  nutritious.  No  instance  has 
been  mentioned  (to  the  writer)  in  which  injury  occurred  to 
stock  from  feeding  upon  it. 

It  has  been  sometimes  thought  that  sugar  was  injurious  to 
the  human  stomach  and  teeth.  This  opinion  is  now  entirely 
exploded  wherever  the  culture  of  the  cane  succeeds.  There 
the  fact  is  well  established,  that  few  if  any  articles  of  diet  are 
better  adapted  to  remove  difficulties  of  digestion,  nourish  and 
strengthen  the  system,  or  gratify  the  palate  than  this. 

So  well  convinced  are  most  planters  of  the  healthful  effects 
of  the  juice  of  this  plant,  that  they  commonly  set  apart  a  small 
field  near  the  house,  which  their  children  are  permitted  to  cut 
up  and  eat  at  will.  If  other  evidence  be  wanting  upon  this 
point,  it  is  found  in  the  effects  of  the  juice,  syrup  and  sugar 
upon  the  negroes  who  make  it  during  the  whole  of  what  is 
called  the  rolling  season.  At  this  time  the  cane  is  gathered 
and  rolled,  i.  e.  passed  between  rollers,  by  which  the  juice  is 
expressed,  and  by  a  boiling  process  the  sugar  is  crystalized. 
This  season  is  one  of  peculiarly  hard  work  to  slaves,  requiring 
the  exertion  of  greater  strength,  and  affording  them  less  inter- 
missions of  their  toil. 

So  far  is  this  however  from  inducing  weakness,  emaciation, 
or  depression  of  spirits  and  sluggishness  of  feeling,  that  at  no 
season  of  the  year  are  they  so  active,  healthful,  fat  and  cheer- 
ful as  this.  Now  with  them  is  the  season  of  mirth,  songs  and 
every  species  of  merriment  and  gaiety,  and  their  full  faces 
become  sleek  with  fatness. 

The  opinion  has  been  frequently  expressed,  that  sugar  can- 
not be  profitably  cultivated  except  upon  large  plantations,  and 
\jdth  the  expenditure  of  a  large  capital.  The  rolling  of  the 


SUGAR    MAKING    NOT    CONFINED    TO    THE    RICH.         119 

cane,  and  the  various  operations  necessary  for  completing  the 
crystallization  of  the  sugar,  and  securing  the  whole  product, 
certainly  cannot  be  very  conveniently  done  without  consider- 
ably expensive  apparatus  ;  and  he  that  would  conduct  the 
whole  concern  by  himself  in  an  extended  manner,  must  of  ne- 
cessity lay  out  a  large  expense. 

Still  many  small  farmers  in  Florida  and  other  parts  of  the 
south,  are  accustomed  to  grow  their  own  cane,  and  with  mini- 
ature apparatus  to  manufacture  sugar  for  themselves.  Some 
of  them  who  began  in  this  small  way  have  subsequently  en- 
larged their  operations,  and  produced  large  quantities  of  sugar 
for  exportation.  It  hence  appears  that  this  branch  of  agricul- 
ture is  not  necessarily  the  monopoly  of  the  rich,  and  may 
probably  be  successfully  prosecuted  by  persons  of  small  capi- 
tal as  well  as  others.  It  would  seem  that  by  an  arrangement 
among  neighbors,  a  single  sugar  mill  might  serve  the  purposes 
of  a  considerable  number  of  persons.  Small  but  well  con- 
structed establishments  for  individual  use  might  be  devised, 
and  larger  ones  for  companies.  By  such  arrangements  as 
these,  which  are  common  in  relation  to  cider  mills  and  other 
purposes  in  the  north,  it  is  probable  that  sugar-making  may 
become  a  common  and  profitable  business  among  the  poor  or 
moderately  wealthy  part  of  community.  At  least  no  insuper- 
able obstacle  appears  to  prevent  it.  It  is  hoped  that  persons 
of  enterprise  and  spirit  will  soon  make  these  suggestions  mat- 
ter of  experiment  and  proof,  and  thus  induce  a  much  more 
rapid  and  dense  population  of  the  level  section  of  this  beauti- 
ful country,  than  could  otherwise  be  expected. 

The  method  of  cultivating  this  valuable  plant,  except  that  it 
needs  replanting  but  once  in  several  years,  is  in  most  respects 
similar  to  that  employed  in  cultivating  Indian  corn  after  the 
young  grain  has  come  up.  In  appearance  it  more  nearly  re- 
sembles broom  corn  than  maize,  and  in  this  country  exhibits 
neither  tassel,  blossom  nor.  seed. 

When  matured  the  edges  of  the  leaves  are  serrated  and  ex- 


120  SEVERAL    VARIETIES    OF    CANE. 

ceedingly  rough,  and,  before  cutting,  the  stalks  are  broken  off 
with  sticks  to  prevent  their  lacerating  the  hands.  The  top, 
some  part  of  which  is  always  immature,  is  cut  off,  and  left 
with  the  leaves  upon  the  ground.  The  stalks  are  then  cut  close 
to  the  ground  and  carried  in  small  bundles,  for  they  are  very 
heavy,  to  the  cart  or  other  vehicle  which  conveys  them  to  the 
mill.  A  portion,  however,  of  this  cane  is  reserved  for  either 
planting  new  fields,  replanting  the  old  one,  or  supplying  such 
hills  as  fail  to  send  up  new  shoots  in  the  spring.  When 
planted,  each  joint  takes  root  and  sends  up  its  shoot,  which, 
in  due  time,  matures  its  sap  into  a  sweet  and  delicious  juice, 
fitted  by  the  mere  act  of  boiling,  to  become  the  sugar  of  com- 
merce. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  cane  cultivated  in  the  south- 
ern parts  of  the  United  States,  all  of  which  however  are  very 
similar  in  their  habits  and  products.  The  ribbon  cane  is  so 
called  from  the  bright  stripes  of  purple  and  straw  color  which 
pass  up  and  down  the  stalk,  making  it  beautiful  indeed.  This 
variety  is  smaller  than  some  others,  but  contains  a  richer 
juice,  and  is  said  to  be  less  affected  by  early  frosts.  The 
rind  or  woody  part  of  this  stalk  is  also  harder  than  that  of  the 
larger  kinds. 

The  Otaheite"  cane  is  large,  with  a  beautiful  pale  green 
complexion,  is  easily  ground,  and  thought  by  some  to  be  pre- 
ferable to  other  kinds.  Another  variety  is  called  the  Creole 
cane,  probably  because  found  native  in  some  part  of  America. 
A  very  small  kind  of  this  article  is  sometimes  reared  in  gar- 
dens as  a  delicacy,  its  juice  being  remarkably  sweet  and  plea- 
sant. The  ribbon  and  Otaheite  varieties  are  those  mostly 
cultivated. 

Sugar  and  molasses  are  not  the  only  forms  in  which  the 
juice  of  the  cane  becomes  an  article  of  food  and  luxury.  A 
clear  and  transparent  syrup  of  the  color  of  very  white  wine, 
and  of  a  consistency  less  viscid  than  treacle,  is  prepared  of 
the  purified  liquor  before  chrystallization,  and  preserved  to 


CULTIVATION    OF    RICE,  121 

mingle  with  water  for  a  summer  beverage,  and  as  a  sauce  for 
puddings,  etc.  It  is  called  among  the  French  along  the  Mis- 
sissippi sero,  their  method  of  pronouncing  the  word  sirop  or 
syrup.  This  article  is  much  more  delicate  than  molasses, 
and  pleasanter  than  sugar  itself. 

Next  to  the  grains  from  which  breadstuff's  are  prepared, 
perhaps  no  article  in  the  vegetable  world  is  more  valuable,  or 
more  universally  desired,  than  the  products  of  the  sugar  cane. 
It  forms  an  essential  ingredient  in  many  of  the  most  important 
medicines,  forms  a  part  of  almost  every  delicacy  that  gratifies 
the  palate,  and  by  its  preservative  qualities  becomes  the  lead- 
ing article  in  all  conserves  of  fruit,  and,  to  large  portions  of  the 
world,  an  important  part  of  ordinary  diet. 

RICE  has  not  as  yet  been  cultivated  to  much  extent  in  any 
part  of  the  republic.  The  reason  for  this,  as  in  relation  to 
most  other  crops,  is  found  in  the  state  of  the  country,  and  the 
want  of  suitable  machinery  by  which  to  prepare  it  for  market. 
The  soil  however  of  all  the  bottoms  and  level  prairies  is  well 
fitted  for  producing  it  in  abundance.  Though  not  equally 
suitable  for  this  purpose  with  the  lowlands,  it  is  believed  that 
profitable  and  generous  crops  of  this  grain  may  be  reared  upon 
the  elevated  prairies  and  other  uplands, 

Of  the  comparative  profit  of  this  crop  with  others,  little 
certain  is  known  ;  but  while  its  present  price  shall  continue, 
it  would  certainly  yield  to  the  small  farmer  liberal  compensa- 
tion for  the  labor  and  expense  of  its  cultivation.  It  was  sold 
about  the  beginning  of  the  present  year,  to  the  innkeepers  of 
the  city  of  Austin,  at  twenty-five  cents  a  pound. 

It  may  be  cultivated  either  on  lands  which  can  be  flooded, 
or  as  an  upland  crop,  on  a  limited  or  extensive  scale.  It 
is  believed  that  it  would  yield  large  crops,  and  well  repay  the 
labor  of  the  husbandman.  Forming  as  it  does  one  of  the 
cheapest  and  most  nutritious  grains,  it  is  hoped  that  it  will 

11 


1^2  INDIGO ITS    CULTURE    PROFITABLE. 

soon  receive   such  a  share  of  attention  as  its  importance  de- 
serves. 

INDIGO,  though  not  yet  one  of  the  agricultural  products  of 
the  country,  would  seem  likely  to  form  in  future  one  of  its 
valuable  exports.  This  seems  to  be  indicated  by  the  fact, 
that  the  indigo  plant  (Tincloria  indigofera)  of  a  very  excel- 
lent quality  is  found  indigenous  along  the  way  sides  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  Texas.  From  this  plant  indigo  has  been  made  in 
families,  and  is  thought  to  be  superior  to  that  imported.  Of 
the  value  of  this  article  it  is  not  necessary  here  to  speak.  It 
is  well  known  that  from  this  product  alone  the  Mexicans  for- 
merly received  at  the  single  port  of  Vera  Cruz,  annually,  a  sum 
of  about  three  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

When  it  shall  be  fully  understood  that  this  was  done  by 
people  little  skilled  in  agriculture,  and  still  less  in  the  art  of 
extracting  the  coloring  material  and  fitting  it  for  use,  and  when 
it  is  also  known  that  great  improvements  have  been  made  in 
the  manner  of  treating  the  gathered  plant  and  its  products, 
gome  enterprising  and  ingenious  farmers  will  be  likely,  by  a 
a  judicious  attention  to  the  indigo  plant,  to  realize  speedy 
fortunes. 

It  has  been  estimated  that  inferior  lands  in  the  southern 
parts  of  the  United  States,  with  ordinary  care,  would  produce 
from  two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  pounds  of  indigo 
per  acre,  with  less  expense  of  machinery  and  labor  than  is 
necessary  for  an  acre  of  cotton.  This  product  at  seventy-five 
cents  a  pound  would  yield  a  much  greater  profit  than  the 
very  best  cotton  ever  cultivated. 

The  usual  manner  of  cultivating  this  plant,  is  to  mellow  the 
ground  with  the  plough,  sow  the  seed  thickly  in  drills,  and,  as 
occasion  may  require  with  the  plough  or  hoe,  clean  out  the 
weeds.  When  at  sufficient  maturity,  the  plants  are  cut  with 
a  sickle  or  knife  near  the  ground,  and  placed  in  vats  to  fer- 
ment, by  which  the  coloring  matter  is  disengaged ;  the  roots 


OLD    METHOD    OF    PREPARING    INDIGO;  123 

meanwhile  remaining  to  sprout  anew,  and  in  the  same  year 
produce  a  second  and  sometimes  a  third  crop.  As  by  a  vigor- 
ous and  large  growth,  a  correspondent  increase  of  coloring 
matter  does  not  take  place,  it  is  well  for  the  plants  to  stand 
thick  in  the  rows,  and  by  number  alone  augment  the  produc- 
tion of  the  field. 

The  most  common  method  of  extracting  and  preparing  the 
indigo  for  market,  has  heretofore  been  to  immerse  the  green 
plants  as  soon  as  cut  in  vats  of  water,  and  leave  them  there  to 
ferment,  or  rot,  as  it  is  called.  This  process  may  require  a 
longer  or  shorter  time,  according  to  the  character  of  the  water 
and  heat  of  the  weather.  When  the  coloring  matter  is  re- 
leased, of  which,  experience  alone  can  enable  one  to  judge* 
the  water  is  drawn  off,  or  the  plants  removed,  and  the  liquor, 
after  being  strained  in  order  to  take  out  small  remnants  of  the 
plant,  is  passed  into  another  vat,  where  it  is  strongly  agitated, 
or,  as  it  is  called,  churned,  for  a  considerable  length  of  time, 
till  certain  changes  take  place  in  its  appearance.  When  this 
is  done,  a  portion  of  lime  water,  or  the  juice  of  some  very  as- 
tringent vegetable,  is  added  to  it,  and  it  is  left  to  precipitate  or 
settle  to  the  bottom.  This  being  done,  the  useless  liquor  is 
carefully  drawn  off  and  the  blue  mass  left  to  dry.  When 
afterwards  it  is  broken  up,  further  dried,  and  enclosed -in  skins 
of  raw  hide,  it  is  fit  for  market.  These  packages  are  called 
seroons  of  indigo. 

This  method  of  extracting  and  preparing  indigo,  is  attended 
with  several  unpleasant  and  dangerous  effects.  While  under- 
going this  fermentation,  the  vats  exhale  a  fetid  and  most  offen- 
sive odor,  at  once  disagreeable  and  injurious  to  health.  The 
removal  of  the  decayed  plant  from  the  water,  and  the  whole 
subsequent  process,  is  therefore  in  the  highest  degree  disa- 
greeable and  sickening.  The  consequence  is  that  a  very 
large  proportion  of  the  laborers  employed,  become  sick,  and 
the  diseases  arising  from  this  source  are  often  malignant  and 
very  fatal  So  frequently  has  this  been  the  case,  and  so  ter* 


124       NEW  MODE  OF  EXTRACTING  THE  DYE. 

rible  has  been  the  result  in  many  cases,  that  very  many  plant- 
ers in  the  southern  states  and  the  West  Indies  have  discon- 
tinued its  production.  Hence  we  are  dependent  for  nearly 
all  our  supplies  of  this  important  dye  upon  importations  from 
Mexico,  South  America  and  Bengal. 

If  this  branch  of  agriculture  necessarily  requires  such  an 
expense  of  health,  and  even  life,  it  ought  at  once  to  be  aban- 
doned, whatever  might  be  the  consequences  in  a  manufactur- 
ing or  commercial  point  of  view.  A  few  facts  however  will 
show  that  this  is  not  the  case,  and  that  indigo  of  the  finest 
quality  may  be  produced  in  abundance,  in  either  a  small  or 
extended  way,  unaccompanied  with  any  of  the  disastrous  re- 
sults above  named. 

It  is  now  understood,  as  the  result  of  numerous  experi- 
ments, that  the  coloring  matter  of  indigo  can  be  extracted 
more  perfectly,  and  with  less  impurities  by  boiling  than  by 
fermentation.  This  practice  induces  no  vegetable  decomposi- 
tion or  offensive  smell,  other  than  the  native  odor  of  the  plant, 
is  productive  of  no  disease  or  danger,  and  produces  an  article 
of  a  higher  quality  than  is  obtained  in  the  former  method. 
The  boiled  liquor  requires  less  churning  than  that  fermented  r 
settles  more  readily,  and  is  sooner  freed  from  the  moisture  of 
the  vat.  • 

The  indigo  plant  treated  in  this  manner,  yields  a  better,  lar- 
ger product,  of  a  purer  character,  with  less  labor,  and  no  inju- 
rious effects  are  produced  upon  the  health  of  the  planter,  his 
family  or  servants. 

This  branch  of  domestic  industry  requires  no  expensive  or 
complicated  machinery,  no  special  skill  or  preparation,  is  fit- 
ted to  be  conducted  in  a  small  way  or  otherwise,  and  is  abun- 
dantly profitable.  The  only  reason  why  it  does  not  attract 
the  attention  of  agriculturists,  is  presumed  to  be,  that  their 
other  crops  are  too  profitable  to  allow  them  to  think  of  change. 
To  those  who  shall  first  revive  the  culture  of  this  plant,  it 


GRAPE    VINES.  125 

will  be  likely  to  prove  the  source  of  much  prosperity  if  not  of 
independent  wealth. 

GRAPES  can  scarcely  be  termed  either  an  agricultural  or 
horticultural  product  of  Texas.  Yet  for  every  purpose  of  pre- 
serving or  the  table,  they  may  be  obtained  from  native  vines 
to  any  desirable  extent.  They  comprise  numerous  varieties, 
from  the  size  of  the  largest  fox  grape  to  the  smallest  of  the 
frost  grapes  at  the  north.  Their  qualities  and  flavor  also  are 
as  varied  as  their  size,  color  and  clusters.  Some  are  exceed- 
ingly sweet  to  the  taste,  and  probably  contain  much  saccha- 
rine matter  ;  others  are  juicy,  with  a  musky  flavor,  and  others, 
though  when  first  placed  in  the  mouth  are  rich  and  pleasant, 
directly  after  produce  a  sensation  of  roughness,  accompanied 
by  an  uncomfortable  drawing  up  of  the  mouth  and  lips  from 
their  astringency.  Some  of  these  fruits  seem  also  to  possess 
a  corrosive  quality,  exciting  upon  the  lips  a  stinging  sensation 
with  a  slight  soreness. 

From  some  of  these  native  vines,  it  is  said,  wine  of  great 
excellence  has  been  made,  and  which  might  for  flavor  and 
purity  compete  with  most  of  the  wines  of  P^urope.  Whether 
any  of  this  fruit  would  be  suitable  for  raisins  has  not  been 
ascertained.  Little  doubt  can  exist  but  that  many  of  them 
might  be  packed  in  jars,  with  chaff  or  saw  dust,  and  transpor- 
ted to  cities  and  towns  at  considerable  distance,  and  where 
they  would  be  a  luxury  indeed.  Vines  are  found  growing  in. 
great  abundance  upon  the  rich  timbered  bottoms  of  many  of 
the  rivers,  and  on  the  prairies  wherever  the  shrubbery  can 
escape  the  power  of  the  annual  fires. 

Whenever  a  sandy  prairie  is  found  a  little  elevated  above 
the  surrounding  level  one,  grape  vines  spread  themselves  over 
its  surface  like  the  vines  of  pumpkins  in  a  field  planted  with 
that  production.  Though  no  tree  nor  shrub  is  found  to  sup- 
port them,  they  grow  with  great  luxuriance,  and  spite  of  fires 
continue  to  grow  and  spread  their  branches  at  great  length, 

11* 


126'  FLAX,    HEMP    AND    TOBACCO. 

along  the  ground.  It  is  presumed  however  that  most  of  the 
fruit  of  these  vines,  lying  as  it  must  upon  the  earth,  and  cov- 
ered with  moist  and  thick  grass,  fails  to  arrive  at  maturity. 
Were  the  grass  removed,  and  the  vines  raised  from  the  ground, 
their  fruitfulness  would  probably  be  incalculable. 

The  most  esteemed  however  of  the  grapes  of  Texas  are 
found  upon  elevated  lands,  of  a  sandy  or  gravelly  character, 
where  they  exhibit  what  may  without  impropriety  be  styled 
native  vineyards,  and  produce,  except  when  prevented  by  the 
burning  grass,  splendid  crops  of  excellent  fruit.  These  will 
in  due  time  probably  become  a  source  of  profit  to  the  husband- 
man, as  they  certainly  will  of  ornament  and  luxury  to  the  man 
of  taste  and  the  lover  of  fine  fruit.  With  a  climate  as  fine  as 
that  of  Italy,  and  a  soil  far  surpassing  to  it,  time  only  is  ne- 
cessary to  render  the  fields  of  Texas  as  delightful  to  travellers 
as  are  now  the  scenes  where  once  a  Fabius  fought,  a  Tully 
spoke,  and  Cesar  reigned. 

FLAX  and  HEMP  are  not  at  present  cultivated  in  this  repub- 
lic. Some  experiments  however  have  been  made,  by  which 
it  would  seem  that  they  can  both  succeed.  It  is  probable  that 
upon  the  bottoms  of  the  streams,  flax  sowed  early  would  ac- 
quire a  competent  height  and  yield  a  good  crop,  but  whether 
at  the  present  prices  of  labor,  and  without  machinery,  the 
largest  crop  would  be  a  source  of  profit,  is  matter  of  some 
doubt.  In  the  undulating  and  mountainous  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, hemp  would  undoubtedly  succeed,  and  when  the  cultiva- 
tion of  cotton  shall  become  extensive,  the  hemp  culture  and 
manufacture  will  be  necessary  and  valuable  auxiliaries. 

TOBACCO  will  grow  vigorously  in  all  parts  of  the  country. 
In  any  place  not  too  wet  it  would  probably  produce  an  article 
of  high  excellence.  It  has  yet  been  cultivated  only  for  home 
consumption,  and  mostly  for  the  individual  use  of  the  grower. 
While  the  demand  for  grain  shall  continue  so  pressing,  prob- 


SWEET    AND    IRISH    POTATOES.  127 

ably  little  more  will  be  done  in  this  article  than  is  now  done. 
Should  however  peace  with  Mexico  soon  transpire,  the  de- 
mand for  tobacco  there  may  induce  a  considerable  attention  to 
it  here.  In  nearly  all  the  towns  of  Mexico  it  always  finds  a 
ready  market  and  a  good  price. 

IRISH  POTATOES,  for  family  use,  are  cultivated  with  as 
much  success  as  in  any  other  portion  of  the  south.  An  early- 
crop  planted  in  February  generally  succeeds,  and  furnishes  in 
April  and  May  a  plentiful  supply  of  that  healthful  and  palat- 
able root.  If  planted  later  the  heat  and  droughts  of  summer 
commonly  prove  too  severe,  and  the  production  is  small  and 
of  little  value.  They  have  been  found  wild  and  indigenous, 
in  some  parts  of  the  republic,  but  the  tubers  were  small  and 
less  palatable  than  those  that  had  been  cultivated.  Probably 
by  careful  cultivation  this  native  plant  would  greatly  improve 
and  become  valuable  as  a  new  variety. 

From  the  causes  above  alluded  to,  this  article  can  never 
become  an  object  in  this  country  for  commercial  purposes, 
except  as  they  are  purchased  from  the  northern  shippers  for 
winter  use.  It  seems  a  little  singular,  that  though  the  potatoe 
is  a  native  of  the  south,  and  found  in  its  natural  state  only 
near  the  tropics,  and  though  in  high  northern  latitudes  if  left 
without  artificial  protection  it  would  perish  in  less  than  a  sin- 
gle year,  yet,  under  the  hand  of  cultivation,  it  is  produced 
above  40°  N.  L.  in  higher  perfection  and  excellence  than  can 
be  obtained  in  its  native  regions.  Is  the  same  fact  true  of 
other  vegetable  productions  ?  and  is  it  in  accordance  with  the 
usual  laws  of  vegetation  that  plants  improve  on  being  removed 
from  their  native  positions  ? 

SWEET  POTATOES  (convolvulus  battatata).  This  excellent 
and  much  prized  root  grows  in  all  parts  of  the  country  with 
great  luxuriance  and  profusion.  They  are  thought  to  be  pro- 
duced here  in  as  high  perfection  as  in  any  part  of  the  world. 


1'28  GARDEN    PRODTJCTS. 

They  grow  to  a  large  size,  weighing  often  seven,  eight  or  ten 
pounds,  and  sometimes  have  yielded  six  or  seven  hundred 
bushels  to  the  acre. 

Were  it  necessary  to  use  them  for  such  purposes,  they 
would  no  doubt  be  excellent  for  milch  cows  and  beef  cattle. 
As  it  is  they  may  certainly  be  a  very  plentiful  and  cheap,  as 
they  are  a  very  excellent  table  vegetable.  Every  variety  of 
them  seems  equally  to  flourish,  and  nearly  equally  abundant 
in  product. 

Garden  vegetables  of  almost  every  kind,  flourish  here  in  a 
degree  unknown  in  most  of  the  northern  sections  of  the  United 
States.  Beets,  parsnips,  carrots  and  other  roots,  grow  large 
and  require  no  protection  from  the  winter.  Beans,  peas, 
lettuce  and  other  herbs,  flourish  even  to  exuberance,  and  fur- 
nish delicacies  at  once  healthful  and  luxurious.  Tomatoes, 
egg  plants,  and  every  variety  of  annual  plants,  seem  to  grow 
almost  spontaneously. 

Melons,  if  protected  from  grass  and  weeds,  even  without 
culture,  grow  to  a  large  size.  When  carefully  cultivated  their 
produce  exceeds  any  thing  elsewhere  knawn,  even  Nashville 
in  Tennessee  not  excepted.  Of  the  musk  melon  there  are 
many  varieties  of  great  excellence,  some  of  which  in  sweet- 
ness scarce  yield  the  preference  to  the  sugar  cane. 

With  a  little  well  directed  attention,  the  productions  of  a 
common  Texian  garden  might  rival  the  finest  exhibitions  of 
horticultural  success  of  the  older  cities  of  the  north.  It  is 
true,  that  raspberries  and  strawberries  are  not  natives  of  the 
country,  but  when  introduced  have  shewn  that  they  lost  noth- 
ing by  their  emigration  to  the  land  of  prairies.  Some  of  these 
were  conveyed  from  Mississippi  to  the  banks  of  the  Brazos, 
in  the  spring  of  1839,  and  in  a  few  weeks  after  planting 
sprung  up  and  produced  a  small  quantity  of  fruit.  They  have 
since  been  further  removed  to  Austin  where  they  will  prob- 
ably become  parents  to  the  fruit  beds  of  many  a  garden.. 


THEIR    ABUNDANCE.  •  129 

Whether,  then,  the  object  of  a  garden  be  ornament  or  vege- 
table sauces,  success  is  easy,  and  can  only  be  defeated  by 
great  want  of  skill  or  sheer  neglect.  Cucumbers,  squashes 
and  pumpkins,  in  all  their  varieties,  are  as  productive  as  any 
other  vines,  and  need  little  attention  except  planting  in  suit- 
able situations. 


130  WINTER    PASTURES. 


CATTLE,    HORSES,    ETC. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Cattle  raised  without  expense. — A  well  conducted  Dairy  a  profitable  busi- 
ness.— Horses — the  country  well  adapted  for  raising  the  finest  breeds. 
— Wild  horae  of  the  prairie.  —  Working  cattle  easily  broken. —  Sheep 
and  goats. —  English  wool  growers. —  Swine — their  increase. —  Mast. — 
The  ground  pea. —  Domestic  fowls — their  increase.—  Bees — a  simple 
method  of  preserving  them. — Wax  and  honey  an  article  of  exportation. 
—  Silk  worms — adaptedness  of  Texas  to  the  growing  of  silk  —  Farm- 
ing advantages  of  the  country,  etc. 

ONE  important  branch  of  husbandry  in  every  country,  con- 
sists in  rearing  and  using  domestic  animals.  These  form  his 
teams  for  labor,  supply  him  with  flesh,  milk,  butter  and  cheese, 
and  afford  the  materials  for  clothing  his  body  and  even  his 
feet.  In  most  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  in  all  Europe, 
the  expense  of  rearing  and  feeding  stock  is  quite  expensive, 
not  only  from  the  value  of  the  materials  consumed,  but  also 
from  the  labor  of  attending  and  feeding  them.  With  the  ex- 
eeption  of  animals  employed  in  labor,  and  thus  prevented  from 
procuring  their  own  subsistence,  this  is  unnecessary  in  Texas. 
So  abundant  is  the  herbage  in  both  woodlands  and  prairies, 
and  so  slightly  is  it  affected  by  the  few  frosts  of  winter,  some 
of  it  retaining  its  entire  freshness  till  spring,  and  so  few  and 
mild  are  the  wintry  storms,  that  cattle  and  hogs  need  neither 
food  nor  shelter  other  than  they  find  for  themselves.  So  lux- 
uriant indeed  are  some7  of  these  natural  winter  pastures,  that 
horses  which  have  become  poor  from  continued  labor,  on  being 
Uirned  out  and  feeding  solely  on  the  herbage  they  find,  rapidly 


BUTTER    AND    CHEESE.  131 

regain  their  flesh,  and  by  spring  are  fitted  for  again  resuming 
their  accustomed  labors. 

The  only  trouble  and  attention  necessary  to  success  in 
rearing  cattle,  is  the  occasional  driving  of  them  to  their  home, 
and  there  feeding  them  with  salt  or  corn,  to  prevent  their  be- 
coming wild,  and  to  mark  or  brand  them  that  the  owner  may 
be  able  to  distinguish  them  from  others.  While  thus  running 
at  large,  and  being  their  own  providers,  many  of  them  will  be 
found  at  any  season,  not  merely  in  good  order,  but  really  fat, 
making  excellent  beef.  As  might  naturally  be  expected,  the 
cattle  are  healthy  and  vigorous,  and  multiply  rapidly. 

A  small  stock,  unless  prevented  by  some  special  cause,  will 
in  a  few  years  become  large,  doubling  their  number  every 
three  or  four  years.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  that 
butter  and  cheese  may  easily  become  abundant,  for,  in  such 
pastures,  cows  can  seldom  fail  to  be  good  milkers.  Still  the 
dairy  has  not  as  yet,  except  in  the  neighborhood  of  towns, 
received  much  attention.  One  reason  for  this  seems  to  be, 
that  the  people  feel  not  the  need  of  this  species  of  profit,  and 
another,  that  strolling  at  times  far  from  home,  their  cows  are 
often  irregular  in  coming  to  the  milking  yard.  To  whatever 
causes  the  neglect  may  be  attributed,  the  want  of  means  to 
produce  these  rich  luxuries,  is  not  one  of  them.  In  many 
families,  however,  milk  is  ever  found  in  plenty,  and  butter  of 
an  excellent  quality  graces  the  table  at  every  meal. 

It  is  doubtful  whether  cheese  has  to  any  considerable  ex- 
tent been  made  in  Texas.  Why  it  has  not,  cannot  well  be 
accounted  for.  except  upon  the  supposition  that  few  settlers 
have  reached  there  from  the  middle  and  eastern  states.  Few 
forms  of  female  industry  and  skill  would  probably  be  more 
profitable,  than  would  that  which  offered  to  the  people  of  this 
republic  a  supply  of  good  cheese. 

At  present  this  is  a  rare  and  very  expensive  luxury,  and 
cannot  be  purchased  but  at  exorbitant  prices.  Even  at 


132  MEXICAN    HORSES. 

Houston,  where  there  is  a  direct  navigation  to  New  Orleans, 
the  retail  price  is  about  fifty  cents  a  pound.  In  the  interior  it 
is  proportionably  higher. 

Of  the  suitableness  of  the  country  for  rearing  horses,  of  the 
finest  breeds  and  power,  with  great  cheapness,  a  judgment 
may  be  formed  from  the  fact,  that  some  of  the  horses  brought 
to  this  country  by  the  Spaniards  in  their  early  settlement  of 
parts  of  Mexico,  became  wild,  and  took  their  place  among  the 
deer  and  buftaloes  of  the  prairies.  The  stock  descended  from 
these  originally  Spanish  horses,  still  feed  upon  the  plains  of 
Texas.  They  are  called  mustangs,  and  are  often  found  in 
large  herds  far  from  the  woodland  upon  the  broadest  prairies, 
where  their  enemies  can  be  seen  at  the  greatest  distance,  and 
-where  it  would  be  difficult  or  impossible  to  take  them  by 
surprise. 

Though  usually  smaller  than  the  bred  horses  of  the  United 
States,  many  of  these  untamed  wanderers  of  the  plain  have 
elegant  frames,  and  run  with  a  speed  unsurpassed  by  the  best 
trained  racers  in  America.  It  is  true,  that  the  Mexicans  make 
a  sort  of  trade  of  running  down  the  mustangs,  and  catching 
them  by  throwing  their  noose,  called  the  lazo,  over  their 
necks,  by  which  they  are  choked  and  compelled  to  submit. 

But  it  is  also  true,  that  it  is  only  the  more  aged  and  feeble 
of  the  herd  that  can  thus  be  overtaken.  The  stronger  and 
more  valuable  part  of  the  flying  troop,  are  far  ahead  of  the 
unfortunate  being  whose  neck  is  enclosed  by  the  deadly  lazo, 
and  are  in  little  danger  of  its  power.  Those  Mexican  horses, 
therefore,  which  are  commonly  offered  for  sale,  are  no  fair 
specimen  of  the  form  or  power  of  the  wild  horse  of  the 
prairie. 

If  then,  without  any  attention  to  breeding  from  the  best 
stocks,  and  without  any  of  the  nurture  which  skill  provides 
for  the  young  of  valuable  horses,  and  exposed  to  the  thousand 
casualties  of  the  forest,  these  animals  not  only  multiply,  but 


RAISING    HORSES    IN    TEXAS.  133 

frequently  exhibit  fine  specimens  of  elegance  and  strength, 
ought  it  not  to  be  expected,  that  vviih  proper  attention  to  the 
character  of  sires  and  dams,  and  with  ordinary  care  of  the 
young,  a  race  of  horses  may  be  produced  here  little  if  any 
inferior  to  the  admired  bloods  of  Arabia. 

It  certainly  appears  to  be  no  extravagant  supposition,  that 
within  less  than  half  a  century,  Texas  will  become  as  cele- 
brated for  noble  and  generous  steeds,  as  she  now  justly  is  for 
her  fine  climate  and  luxuriant  pastures. 

The  following  interesting  and  graphic  description  of  the 
wild  horse  of  Texas,  is  extracted  from  "  Prairie  Sketches," 
recently  published. 

"  We  rode  through  beds  of  sun  flowers  miles  in  extent,  with 
their  dark  seedy  centres  and  radiating  yellow  leaves  following 
the  sun  through  the  day  from  the  east  to  west,  and  drooping 
when  the  shadows  close  over  them  as  though  they  were  things 
of  sense  and  sentiment.  These  are  sometimes  beautifully 
varied  with  a  delicate  flower  of  an  azure  tint,  yielding  no  per- 
fume, but  forming  a  pleasant  contrast  to  the  bright  yellow  of 
the  sun  flower. 

About  half  past  ten,  we  discerned  a  creature  in  motion  at 
an  immense  distance,  and  instantly  started  in  pursuit.  Fifteen 
minutes'  riding  brought  us  near  enough  to  discover  by  its 
fleetness,  it  could  not.  be  a  buffalo,  yet  it  was  too  large  for  an 
antelope  or  a  deer.  On  we  went,  and  soon  distinguished  the 
erected  head,  the  flowing  mane,  and  the  beautiful  proportions 
of  the  wild  horse  of  the  prairie.  He  saw  us,  and  sped  away 
with  an  arrowy  fleetness  till  he  gained  a  distant  eminence, 
when  he  turned  to  gaze  at  us,  and  suffered  us  to  approach 
within  four  hundred  yards,  when  he  bounded  away  again  in 
another  direction,  with  a  graceful  velocity,  delightful  to  be- 
hold. We  paused — for  to  pursue  him,  with  a  view  of  catching 
him,  was  clearly  impossible.  When  he  discovered  we  were 
not  following  him,  he  also  paused,  and  now  he  seemed  to  be 
inspired  with  as  great  a  curiosity  as  ourselves  experienced  ; 

12 


134  WILD    HORSE    OF   THE    PRAIRIE. 

for,  after  making  a  slight  turn,  he  came  nearer,  till  we  could 
distinguish  the  inquiring  expression  of  his  clear  bright  eye, 
and  the  quick  curl  of  his  inflated  nostrils. 

We  had  no  hopes  of  catching,  and  did  not  wish  to  kill  him  ; 
but  our  curiosity  led  us  to  approach  him  slowly  for  the  pur- 
pose of  scanning  him  more  nearly.  We  had  not  advanced 
far,  however,  before  he  moved  away,  and  circling  round  ap- 
proached on  the  other  side.  'Twas  a  beautiful  animal — a 
sorrel,  with  jet  black  mane  and  tail.  We  could  see  the  mus- 
cles quiver  in  his  glossy  limbs,  as  he  moved  ;  and  when  half 
playfully  and  half  in  fright,  he  tossed  his  flowing  mane  in  the 
air,  and  flourished  his  long  silky  tail,  our  admiration  knew  no 
bounds,  and  we  longed — hopelessly,  vexatiously,  longed  to 
possess  him. 

Of  all  the  brute  creation,  the  horse  is  the  most  admired  by 
man.  Combining  beauty  with  usefulness,  all  countries  and  all 
ages  yield  him  their  admiration.  But,  though  the  finest  spe- 
cimen of  his  kind,  a  domestic  horse  will  ever  lack  that  magic 
and  indescribable  charm  that  beams  like  a  halo  round  the  sim- 
ple name  of  freedom.  The  wild  horse  roving  the  prairie 
wilderness,  knows  no  master — has  never  felt  the  whip — 
never  clasped  in  his  teeth  the  bit,  to  curb  his  native  freedom, 
but  gambols  unmolested  over  its  grassy  home,  where  Nature 
has  given  it  a  bountiful  supply  of  provender.  Lordly  man 
has  never  sat  upon  its  back  ;  the  spur  and  the  bridle  are  un- 
known to  it;  and  when  the  Spaniard  comes  on  his  fleet 
trained  steed,  with  noose  in  hand,  to  ensnare  him,  he  bounds 
away  over  the  velvet  carpet  of  the  prairie,  swift  as  an  arrow 
from  the  Indian  bow,  or  even  the  lightning  darting  from  the 
cloud. 

We  might  have  shot  him  from  where  we  stood,  but  had  we 
been  starving,  we  would  scarcely  have  done  it.  He  was  free  ; 
and  we  loved  him  for  the  very  possession  of  that  liberty  we 
longed  to  take  from  him ;  but  we  would  not  kill  him.  We 
fired  a  rifle  over  his  head  ;  he  heard  the  shot  and  the  whiz  of 


GOATS    AND    SHEEP.  135 

the  ball,  and  away  he  went,  disappearing  in  the  next  hollow, 
showing  himself  again  as  he  crossed  the  distant  ridges,  still 
seeming  smaller,  until  he  faded  away  in  a  speck  on  the  far 
horizon's  verge." 

Among  the  mustangs,  and  mingled  with  them,  it  is  said,  are 
often  found  jacks,  jennies  and  mules.  Thege  have  the  same 
origin  as  the  mustangs,  and  accustomed  in  a  domestic  state  to 
associate  with  horses,  the  same  habit  continues  still.  Among 
the  Mexicans  along  the  Rio  Grande,  the  rearing  of  these  ani- 
mals has  been  a  source  of  considerable  profit,  large  numbers 
of  them  being  driven  annually  towards  the  United  States, 
where  they  are  sold  at  good  prices.  This  business  will  prob- 
ably not  be  less  profitable  for  many  years  to  come  than  at 
present.  The  country  along  the  Red  River  in  Louisiana  and 
Arkansas,  with  all  the  lower  parts  of  the  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Texas,  are  rapidly  increasing  in  population,  and  the 
demand  for  laboring  horses  and  mules  must  of  course  continue 
to  be  considerable. 

It  scarce  need  be  urged  that  sheep  and  goats  would  find  in 
Texas  a  situation  suited  to  their  characters  and  habits.  Per- 
haps in  the  lower  and  level  section  of  the  country,  sheep 
might  not  so  well  endure  the  warmth  of  summer  as  might  be 
desired,  and  consequently  their  wool  might  degenerate  in  qua- 
lity. If  this  be  true  the  fact  remains  yet  to  be  proved,  and  it 
is  believed  the  mutton  of  sheep  fed  here,  is  equal  if  not  supe- 
rior to  the  very  best  of  that  article  in  any  of  the  states.  In 
the  undulating  and  hilly  regions,  no  difficulties  like  those  al- 
luded to  are  even  suspected.  No  doubt  exists  in  any  mind, 
but  that  upon  the  prairies,  and  even  in  the  woodlands,  sheep 
would  find  abundant  and  suitable  food,  would  be  healthful  and 
vigorous  as  in  any  other  country,  and  produce  fleeces  as 
fine  as  animals  of  the  same  breed  in  the  most  favored  districts. 
Nor  does  this  opinion  rest  merely  upon  conjecture.  A  few 
flocks  have  been  introduced  into  different  sections  of  the 
country,  and  by  their  rapid  increase,  rich  fleeces  and  fine 


136  SWINE. 

flesh,  give  abundant  indications  that  their  introduction  will  be 
highly  profitable  to  their  enterprising  owners.  One  fine  flock 
has  been  driven  as  far  into  the  interior  as  Austin.  Although 
their  arrival  was  but  a  few  weeks  prior  to  the  time  the  writer 
saw  them  in  the  month  of  January,  and  though  their  only  food 
was  the  winter  Covering  of  the  prairie,  and  they,  to  preserve 
them  from  the  wolves,  were  herded  every  night,  they,  with 
their  young  lambs  appeared  to  be  in  good  plight,  and  many  of 
them  fit  for  the  butcher.  It  is  stated  also  that  several  English 
sheep  growers  are  about  establishing  themselves  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  country,  with  large  flocks  of  some  of  the  best 
breeds  of  sheep  in  Great  Britain. 

It  is  doubtful  whether,  for  many  years  to  come,  it  will  be 
desirable  for  Texas  to  produce  either  wool  or  any  articles  of 
manufacture  for  exportation,  but  there  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  production  of  supplies  for  home  consumption  of  wool, 
hemp,  and  many  other  things,  is  greatly  preferable  to  importing 
them  from  abroad.  Goats  would  need  no  other  attention  than 
what  is  necessary  to  prevent  their  becoming  wild,  and,  by 
their  rapid  multiplication,  would  furnish  to  the  owner  abun- 
dance of  flesh  in  some  degree  resembling  venison.  The  only 
considerable  difficulty  in  the  way  of  success,  in  rearing  either 
sheep  or  goats,  is,  that  wolves  are  very  numerous,  and  with- 
out these  animals  are  well  secured  they  will  be  sure  to  make 
them  their  prey.  This  object  will  be  fully  secured  by  folding 
them  every  night  near  the  house,  where  these  prowlers  never 
venture. 

SWINE,  though  receiving  benefit  from  the  care  and  occa- 
sional feeding  of  their  owners,  can  subsist  in  most  parts  of 
Texas  upon  the  native  products  of  the  country  throughout  the 
year.  It  has  frequently  happened  to  the  new  settler  to  pos- 
sess but  little  grain,  and  consequently  to  be  able  barely  to 
supply  that  article  to  his  family,  his  working  cattle  and  horses 
being  fed  only  upon  grass.  At  such  times  surely  the  swine 


THE    GROUND    PEA.  137 

would  be  likely  to  be  neglected.  Yet,  neglected  as  they  are, 
they  grow  vigorously,  and  in  the  spring  evince  no  marks  of 
weakness  or  unfitness  for  multiplying  their  numbers.  The 
mast  of  the  oak,  the  hickory,  peccan  and  musquit  trees  is 
usually  abundant  in  the  fall  and  till  late  in  the  winter.  The 
musquit  grass  and  several  other  kinds  are  nutritious  through- 
out this  season  ;  add  to  which  the  prairies  and  woodlands 
produce  many  nutritious  roots  of  different  kinds,  which  the 
hogs  readily  find.  The  native  ground  pea,  though  not  pecu- 
liar to  Texas,  or  even  the  southern  states,  is  said  to  furnish 
much  valuable  food  to  hogs  and  many  wild  animals.  As  the 
habits  of  this  plant  are  not  generally  well  understood  it  may 
not  be  amiss  to  briefly  notice  it.  It  comprises  several  varie- 
ties, differing  more  in  the  size  of  the  plant  and  form  of  the 
leaf,  than  in  other  respects.  They  all  trail  upon  the  ground, 
and  have  small  inconspicuous  and  scarcely  perceptible  blos- 
soms, which  soon  disappear.  No  fruit,  nor  even  appearance 
of  imperfect  fructification,  appears  upon  the  plant.  In  attempt- 
ing gently  to  raise  the  vines  from  the  ground,  they  will  be 
perceived  to  adhere  to  it  by  small  roots  or  threads  in  various 
places,  which  are  however  easily  broken,  and  seldom  loosened 
from  the  earth.  By  carefully  opening  the  ground  among  these 
fine  roots,  they  may  be  raised  unbroken,  when  it  will  be  found 
that  at  the  extremity  of  each,  and  completely  imbedded  in  the 
ground,  is  one  pod  or  more  in  which  is  enclosed  a  real  well 
formed  round  pea,  and  perhaps  sometimes  several  of  them. 
In  their  leaf,  vine,  flower  and  fruit,  they  are  clearly  marked 
with  the  characteristics  of  the  pea,  (pisum)  and  no  doubt  par-, 
take  among  other  things,  of  its  nutritive  qualities.  On  these, 
the  large  sand-hill  crane,  as  it  is  here  called,  is  believed  to. 
feed  in  winter. 

Where  this  is  abundant  it  is  not  wonderful  that  swine 
should  find  a  comfortable  subsistence.  In  summer,  in  addition 
to  various  grasses,  and  other  vegetable  food,  the  prairies  are 
thickly  sprinkled  with  several  varieties  of  small  snails,  whose. 


138  GEESE,    DUCKS    AND    TURKIES    ARE    NATIVES. 

white  shells  give  to  the  burned  prairies  a  speckled  appear- 
ance. Upon  these  swine  are  said  to  feed  with  eagerness,  as 
do  also  almost  all  varieties  of  birds.  Thus,  in  this  country, 
both  the  animal  and  vegetable  productions  conspire  to  render 
food  various  as  well  as  plentiful.  The  rapidity  with  which 
these  animals,  if  unrestrained,  multiply,  would  surprise  those 
to  whom  the  facts  had  been  previously  unknown.  Some  of 
the  statements  of  the  settlers  have  been  heretofore  noticed. 
Nothing  further  need  be  added  except  to  state,  that  those  de- 
clarations are  neither  denied  nor  regarded  with  surprise  by 
any  of  the  residents  of  the  country.  The  only  check  to  this 
prolific  fecundity,  arises  from  the  occasional  straying  away  of 
a  parent  sow,  whom  the  wolves  are  then  apt  to  rob  of  the 
whole  of  their  progeny,  although  they  seldom  prey  upon  any 
other  than  young  pigs. 

Domestic  fowls  of  every  description  are  raised  with  the 
greatest  ease,  and  furnish  cheap  articles  of  food  and  other 
luxuries.  Geese,  ducks  and  turkeys  are  natives  of  the  coun- 
try, and  range  over  its  surface  in  countless  numbers.  Those 
of  the  domestic  kinds,  it  is  presumed,  may  sustain  themselves, 
and  find  their  own  subsistence  quite  as  well  as  the  native 
tenants  of  the  forest  and  the  pool.  The  remnants  of  grain 
and  other  food  about  the  barns,  houses  and  fields,  together 
with  the  native  products  of  the  ground,  will  amply  nourish 
them,  and  offer  them  sufficient  inducements  to  remain  at  home. 

Chickens  are  declared  to  be  prolific  beyond  any  known  ex- 
ample, continuing  to  furnish  eggs  and  bring  forth  their  broods 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  The  earlier  spring  broods  are  said, 
in  fall,  in  turn  to  become  parents,  and  thus  increase  the  ten- 
ants of  the  yard  in  something  like  geometrical  progression. 

BEES.  (Apis  mellifica).  If  the  nurture  of  these  animals  do 
not  in  strictness  belong  to  agriculture,  yet  that  farmer  who,  in 
Texas,  should  neglect  to  furnish  himself  with  both  hives  and 
swarms,  would  be  justly  chargeable  with  a  disregard  to  both 


BEES,    HONEY    AND    FLOWERS.  139 

comfort  and  advantage.     These  valuable  and  industrious  in- 
sects abound  in  all  parts  of  this  country. 

With  a  region  unsurpassed  in  the  number,  variety  and  rich- 
ness of  its  flowers,  and  those  continuing  to  yield  their  sweets 
through  nearly  the  whole  year,  and  in  a  climate  so  rnild  as 
but  partially  to  suspend  the  labors  of  the  hive,  it  would  be 
singular  if  bees  were  not  found  wherever  th^y  could  obtain  a 
place  to  deposit  their  stores. 

It  is  said  that  a  skilful  bee  hunter  may  in  almost  any  sunny 
day,  even  in  winter,  trace  bees  to  their  dwellings  in  the  forest, 
and  consequently  obtain  honey  for  every  necessary  occasion- 
In  spring  and  summer  the  prairies,  throughout  their  broad 
extent,  form  one  continued  pasture  of  flowers.  On  these, 
myriads  of  bees  are  seen  extracting  the  nectared  moisture, 
and  loading  themselves  with  pollan,  to  convey  to  the  parent 
hive  and  bestow  upon  the  parent  queen,  or  lay  up  for  her  off- 
spring. 

If  on  earth  there  can  be  found,  what  philosophers  have  de- 
fined habitual  disinterested  benevolence  and  practical  patriot- 
ism, it  may  well  be  said  to  be  in  the  faithfulness,  industry  and 
liberality  of  the  working  bee.  Regardless  of  self,  and  even 
neglecting  all  means  of  subsistence  when  separated  from  the 
objects  of  its  care,  with  untiring  industry  and  persevering 
kindness,  it  feeds  the  parent  guardian  of  the  hive,  and  watches 
all  the  wants  of  the  yet  feeble  and  unwinged  young. 

In  the  whole  circle  of  unreasoning  nature,  perhaps  no  ani- 
mal can  be  found  whose  habits  are  more  curious  or  astonish- 
ingly adapted  to  the  objects  in  view,  whose  labors  are  more 
gratifying  to  men,  or  whose  fate  is  more  tragical  than  are 
those  of  the  honey  bee. 

The  usual  and  almost  the  exclusive  method  of  obtaining  the 
fruits  of  their  labor  is,  by  first  destroying  the  lives  of  the  un- 
offending and  rightful  proprietors,  and  then  seizing  upon  their 
precious  stores.  Such  cruelty  has  excited  the  compassion  of 
many  a  generous  bosom,  and  induced  numbers  of  wise  and 


HO  METHOD    OF    PRESERVING    BEES. 

good  men  to  devise  methods  by  which  the  honey  may  be 
safely  removed,  and  its  owners  left  unharmed  to  resupply  the 
stores  thus  rudely  taken  from  them. 

Several  different  modes  have  been  adopted  with  more  or 
less  success  The  comparative  advantages  of  these  it  is  not 
proposed  to  discuss.  Anxiety  however  to  preserve  the  lives 
of  these  valuable  insects,  and  to  promote  at  the  same  time  the 
interest  of  the  farmer,  will  furnish  a  sufficient  apology  for  in- 
troducing a  short  notice  of  a  method  practised  by  several  gen- 
tlemen with  success. 

It  consists  simply  in  a  small  house,  raised  some  distance 
from  the  ground  upon  pillars,  into  which  mice  or  other  ani- 
mals larger  than  bees  cannot  gain  an  entrance  except  by 
opening  the  door.  The  floor  of  this  may  suitably  be  some- 
what inclined  toward  the  door,  the  better  to  facilitate  the 
washing  or  other  cleansing  process.  The  sides  may  consist 
of  upright  plank,  which  should  be  seasoned  to  prevent  cracks 
occurring  after  being  put  in  the  building ;  and,  in  addition  to 
the  roof,  there  may  well  be  a  tight  upper  floor,  to  prevent  any 
water  from  finding  its  way  into  the  house,  and  also  to  prevent 
its  becoming  too  warm  from  the  sunshine  upon  the  roof. 

On  three  sides  of  this  house,  leaving  the  side  where  the 
door  is  vacant,  there  should  be  erected  courses  of  shelves 
about  one  and  a  half  or  two  feet  wide,  well  supported  by  fre- 
quent and  strong  planks  placed  under  and  between  them. 
These  shelves  may  be  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  apart,  and 
the  compartments  between  supporters  of  any  convenient  width, 
which  would  not  leave  the  shelves  too  weak  to  support  the 
full  comb.  At  occasional  intervals  small  holes  should  be 
made  in  the  sides  of  the  house  for  purposes  of  ventilation,  and 
also  for  places  of  entrance  and  departure  for  the  bees. 

The  whole  being  prepared,  a  hive  may  be  taken  at  night 
into  the  building,  and  laid  horizontally  upon  one  of  the  shelves, 
near  to  where  the  bees  are  expected  to  go  out  and  in.  "\Yhen 
this  hive  is  full,  instead  of  swarming  and  going  elsewhere  for, 


SILK    WORMS.  141 

a  home,  the  bees  will  commence  filling  the  spaces  between 
the  shelves,  and  thus  continue  to  extend  their  operations  for 
years. 

Whoever  has  such  an  establishment  in  operation,  will 
scarcely  need  to  be  informed  that  he  may  enter  into  this 
house  at  night,  gently  brush  away  the  bees  from  any  part  of 
their  dwelling,  and  remove  with  a  knife  such  qualities  and 
amount  of  honey  as  he  chooses.  These  industrious  and  un- 
complaining sufferers  will  soon  repair  the  broken  walls,  and 
supply  the  space  with  beautiful  new  and  richly  laden  combs. 

By  this  and  similar  methods,  it  is  believed  that  honey  may 
be  secured  to  an  increased  amount,  and  the  luxury  and  profit 
arising  from  all  the  products  of  the  apiary  be  enlarged,  while 
the  lives  of  the  little  colony  are  spared.  May  the  fair  land  of 
Texas  ever  flow  with  milk  and  honey,  but  let  not  her  sons 
purchase  these  sweets  by  the  unnecessary  destruction  of  the 
lives  of  innocent  and  useful  beings. 

From  every  indication,  the  flowering  fields,  shrubs  and 
forests,  the  mild  and  bland  climate  where  these  animals  are 
in  no  danger  of  frost,  and  from  the  abundance  of  bees  already 
here,  it  is  presumed  that  in  a  few  years  Texas  will  furnish 
large  amounts  of  honey  and  wax  for  exportation.  In  this  re- 
spect she  might,  like  the  place  where  the  apostle  was  ship- 
wrecked, be  styled  Melila,  the  land  of  honey. 

SILK  WORMS.  No  experiments  have  been  made  in  Texas 
in  relation  to  silk,  further  than  to  plant  a  few  hundred  shoots 
of  the  morus  multicaulis.  These  were  planted  on  the  island 
of  Galvestori  late  in  April  1839.  They  however  survived 
and  grew  to  a  considerable  height  that  season.  That  the 
more  valuable  of  the  mulberry  for  feeding  silk  worms  will 
flourish  well  in  Texas  is  unquestionable. 

In  different  parts  of  Alabama,  Louisiana  and  Mississippi, 
where  the  climate  is  less  favorable  than  Texas,  they  succeed 
as  fully  as  their  own  native  tree.  Those  growing  upon  Gal- 


142  MULBERRY    TREES    VERY    PRODUCTIVE. 

veston  are  entirely  unaffected  by  the  last   winter,  a  part  of 
\vhich  was  uncommonly  severe. 

In  addition  to  these  facts,  native  mulberries  are  found  grow- 
ing in  various  parts  of  the  republic.  Among  all  the  varieties 
of  this  tree,  none  it  is  thought  are  more  tenacious  of  life,  or 
more  easily  reared  from  cuttings  or  layers  than  the  morus  mul- 
ticaulis.  In  climates  similar  to  Texas  few  cuttings  have 
been  known  not  to  vegetate,  even  when  taken  from  the  tree 
while  the  ripe  fruit  was  seen  upon  the  branches.  Whenever 
the  cuttings  have  been  taken  before  the  swelling  of  the  buds, 
and  placed  soon  after  in  the  ground,  they  have  usually  vege- 
tated with  as  much  certainty  as  ordinary  garden  or  field  seeds. 

Their  growth  also  in  the  south  is  exceedingly  luxuriant  and 
rapid.  Several  specimens  growing  in  the  jtoor  pine  lands  of 
Louisiana  were  shown  to  a  clergyman,  which,  in  the  fall 
after  the  cuttings  were  placed  in  the  ground,  had  reached  the 
height  of  ten  feet  and  some  few  inches.  Another  specimen 
in  1835,  growing  in  a  garden  at  Mobile,  attained  the  height  of 
twelve  feet  the  year  it  was  planted.  In  neither  of  these  cases 
was  the  soil  rich,  in  the  latter  it  was  a  very  loose  sand. 

In  Texas  where  the  climate  is  equally  favorable  and  the 
soil  much  better,  it  is  presumed  the  growth  will  be  still  more 
vigorous.  For  the  cultivation  of  this  tree  the  upland  prairies 
will  probably  be  found  admirably  adapted.  The  soil  is  suffi- 
ciently rich  and  dry  to  render  the  leaves  at  once  large  and 
free  from  the  watery  character  that  is  objected  to  when  the 
tree  grows  upon  moist  bottoms. 

So  bland  is  the  climate,  so  long  and  favorable  the  season, 
and  so  rapid  and  continuous  the  growth  of  this  tree,  that  it  is 
presumed  two  or  three  crops  of  worms  may  be  produced  in  a 
single  year.  Such  it  is  said  can  be  done  in  the  south  of 
Florida,  and  if  that  be  true,  the  same  can  be  done  in  Texas. 

If  this  country  does  not  within  a  quarter  of  a  century  be- 
come an  extensively  silk  growing  region,  the  only  reason  will 


FARMERS    SURE    OF    SUCCESS.  143 

be  because  other  branches  of  industry  are  so  successful  that 
no  temptation  exists  to  seek  for  new  ones. 

With  a  climate  as  favorable  as  any  part  of  the  south  of 
Italy,  a  soil  transcending  the  finest  fields  celebrated  in  the 
songs  of  the  Mantuan  bard,  and  a  country  whose  resources  are 
undrained,  why  may  not  the  silk  of  Texas  be  equal  in  beauty 
and  perfection  with  that  which  forms  the  purple  robe  of 
royalty. 

A  slight  retrospect  of  the  climate,  soil  and  productions  of 
this  country  will  be  sufficient  to  show,  that  its  advantages 
over  the  very  best  parts  of  the  north  are  numerous  and  great. 
There,  a  very  large  portion  of  the  summer  is  consumed  in 
rearing  and  securing  sustenance  for  stock  of  various  kinds 
through  the  winter.  Here,  all  such  labor  is  unnecessary  and 
would  mostly  be  thrown  away.  There,  the  winter  precludes 
almost  ev6ry  kind  of  profitable  farming  business,  being  taken 
up  in  feeding  stock,  attending  to  fuel,  and  like  engagements. 
Here,  with  the  exception  of  those  few  days  when  storms  pre- 
vent it,  the  fields  are  ploughed,  fences  made,  grounds  cleared, 
and,  before  its  close,  corn  and  other  seeds  are  in  the  ground 
and  shooting  up  into  green  blades. 

Having  all  the  fall  and  spring,  and  much  of  the  winter  for 
field  labor,  and  free  from  all  the  expense  of  wintering  stock, 
the  Texian  farmer  enjoys  double  the  time  for  successful  exer- 
tion that  the  New  Englander  does,  and  is  at  far  less  ex 
pense. 

Surely  if  men  do  not  succeed  in  acquiring  a  competency  by 
farming  in  Texas,  it  must  be  because  they  are  either  idle  or 
improvident.  With  ordinary  health,  economy  and  industry, 
every  one  who  is  able  to  commence  a  small  farm,  may  in  a 
very  few  years  be  placed  in  circumstances  of  comfort  if  not 
of  affluence. 


144  PEACHES    AN    ARTICLE    OF    COMMERCE. 


FRUITS,    ORCHARDS,    ETC. 


CHAPTER    X. 

Peaches. — Rapid  growth  of  the  trees.— Dried  peaches  an  article  of  com- 
merce.—  Apples  and  pears  not  much  cultivated. —  "Wild  Plums. —  Al- 
monds can  be  grown  near  the  coast. —  Figs,  oranges,  etc.  will  suc- 
ceed well. — The  IN'opal — its  peculiarities.-^-  The  hawthorn  valuable  as 
an  hedge. 

BEFORE  closing  the  notices  of  agricultural  productions,  some 
notice  of  the  fruits  and  products  of  the  orchard  demand  atten- 
tion. It  has  been  already  stated  that  peaches  flourish  in 
every  part  of  the  country  wiih  great  luxuriance.  The  fruit  of 
this  tree  is  often  very  large,  and  equal  in  richness  to  any 
known  in  the  southern  states.  Though  skill  and  attention 
might  no  doubt  be  advantageous,  the  trees  grow  well  with  no 
other  care  than  a  very  imperfect  protection  from  being  browsed 
by  cattle. 

Little  or  no  attention  has  been  paid  to  grafting  them,  and 
yet  it  is  believed  few  gardens  of  selected  varieties  would 
afford  finer  fruit,  if  we  regard  either  size  or  delicacy  of  their 
flavor.  So  rapid  is  the  progress  of  this  tree  from  the  seed  to 
maturity,  that  it  usually  produces  fruit  the  third  year  of  its 
growth,  and  it  is  said  sometimes  in  the  second. 

So  easily  may  this  tree  be  reared,  so  abundant  is  its  fruit, 
and  so  easily  is  it  dried  incur  warm  summers  and  desiccating 
winds,  that  dried  peaches  will  probably  soon  become  a  con- 
siderable article  of  commerce,  and  large  quantities  be  ex- 
ported. In  this  manner  peach  orchards  may  not  only  furnish 


APPLES.  145 

to  the  housekeeper  rich  luxuries,  but  large  profits  with  little 
ox  no  heavy  labor. 

As  yet  few  if  any  instances  are  known  of  the  ravages  of 
the  peach  grub,  whose  attacks  upon  the  roots  of  these  trees 
are  so  much  dreaded  in  most  parts  of  the  United  States.  In 
several  places  there  are  orchards  of  old  trees,  which  have 
certainly  stood  many  years,  and  yet  bear  marks  of  entire 
healthfulness,  having  in  1839  produced  fine  crops  of  choice 
fruit. 

When  amateurs  in  good  fruit  shall  be  at  pains  to  collect 
scions  from  the  best  varieties,  and  by  grafting  or  inoculation 
collect  numbers  of  them  together,  Texas  may  boast  of  as 
great  varieties  and  splendid  qualities  of  this  fruit  as  any  coun- 
try in  the  world.  A  number  of  small  peach  orchards  are 
found  scattered  through  different  sections  of  the  country,  and 
they  are  rapidly  multiplying.  A  very  few  years  hence  this 
excellent  fruit  will  be  as  plentiful  in  Texas  as  apples  in  New 
England  or  in  western  New  York. 

APPLES  have  as  yet  received  very  little  attention,  and  little 
is  known  from  experience  of  the  success  with  which  this 
fruit  may  be  cultivated.  In  the  lower  and  level  parts  of  the 
country,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  trees  would  be  healthful  or 
the  fruit  mature.  In  some  of  the  low  grounds  of  Louisiana, 
even  where  the  trees  continued  to  flourish,  the  fruit  became 
so  affected  by  the  hot  sun  as  to  rot  on  the  south-western  side, 
and,  consequently,  soon  decayed  and  perished.  Whether  like 
disasters  would  attend  apples  here,  can  be  known  only  by 
experience. 

Farther  from  the  coast  among  the  elevated  prairies,  and 
especially  the  mountainous  districts,  little  doubt  exists  but 
that  apples  may  be  reared  with  entire  success.  Here  the 
soil  is  of  a  character  suited  to  this  tree,  the  land  is  high  and 
the  heat  less  intense.  Probably  however  one  object  of 
orchards  at  the  north  would  not  be  realized  in  this  country. 
There,  cider  is  one  of  the  principal  products  of  this  part  of 

13 


146  PLUMS* 

husbandry,  and  may  be  preserved  in  perfection  several  months. 
This  is  made  of  apples  that  ripen  late  in  the  season,  after  the 
weather  has  become  cool,  and  the  season  of  making  it  is  soon 
followed  by  severe  frosts.  Here,  these  same  apples  would 
ripen  in  August  or  early  in  September,  and  hence  if  made 
into  cider  would  rapidly  pass  from  the  vinous  to  the  acetous 
fermentation,  and  be  valuable  for  little  else  than  vinegar. 

Cider,  if  made  here,  would  not  be  easily  preserved  in  a 
state  for  drinking,  and  hence  of  little  value  as  an  article  of 
commerce.  Still  so  great  is  the  benefit  of  this  fruit  in  itself, 
so  fine  for  eating  and  various  culinary  purposes,  both  in  its 
fresh  state  and  when  dried,  that  an  orchard  of  well  selected 
apples,  comprising  the  early  and  late  varieties,  those  fitted  for 
the  table,  for  cooking,  for  drying,  and  for  preserving  through 
the  winter,  yields  an  amount  of  health,  luxury  and  profit 
•which  it  would  be  difficult  to  estimate. 

Pears  are  said  to  flourish  better  in  low  southern  latitudes 
than  apples.  In  many  respects  their  cultivation  and  habits 
correspond  entirely  with  that  fruit.  Possessing  less  variety 
of  flavor,  and,  perhaps,  less  of  the  saccharine  quality  than  the 
apple,  they  have  not  been  applied  to  so  many  nor  so  useful 
purposes.  Some  of  the  varieties  however  are  delicate  and 
melting  in  their  substance,  and  are  delightfully  flavored.  Like 
apples  they  have  not  yet  been  cultivated  in  Texas.  What 
has  been  said  respecting  proper  locations  for  the  one,  will 
equally  apply  to  the  other.  They  will  probably  be  regarded 
rather  as  a  garden  crop  than  belonging  to  the  orchard. 

PLUMS.  Except  the  native  growth  of  the  soil,  but  little  of 
this  delicate  and  pleasant  fruit  is  known  to  exist  in  this  coun- 
try. Wild  plums  in  great  numbers  and  considerable  variety 
are  found  in  many  parts  of  the  republic,  and  most  of  these, 
like  the  wild  plums  of  the  north,  are  red,  but  it  is  said  that 
yellow,  white,  and  green  ones  have  been  found. 

One  variety  growing  on  high  land,  and  among  the  timber, 
is  called  by  the  people  the  post  oak  plum.  The  trees  are 


FIGS     AND    ORANGES.  147 

usually  small,  but  the  fruit  is  said  to  be  good.  Among  so 
many  varieties  probably  some  must  be  valuable,  and  might 
improve  greatly  by  judicious  cultivation. 

That  native  plums  thus  flourish  in  all  parts  of  the  country, 
is  sufficient  proof  that  all  the  improved  and  cultivated  kinds 
may  be  produced  here  with  success,  and  probably  of  the 
first  quality.  If  other  methods  would  not  succeed,  they 
might  be  successfully  grafted  upon  native  stocks,  a  method 
which  has  never  been  known  to  fail  of  success.  So  nearly 
allied  in  character  are  peaches  and  plums,  that  where  the  for- 
mer flourish  the  latter  can  scarcely  fail  to  succeed. 

Apricots  and  nectarines  are  of  the  same  family,  and  subject 
to  the  same  laws,  as  peaches  and  plums.  Nearly  allied  to 
these,  especially  in  warm  climates,  are  the  different  varieties 
of  almonds,  whi-ch  would  probably  succeed  well  any  where 
near  the  coast. 

Sometimes  in  Texas  as  in  Florida,  and  in  the  southern 
parts  of  Louisiana,  Mississippi  and  Alabama,  the  hopes  of  the 
farmer  from  his  orchard,  of  every  kind  of  fruit,  are  cut  off  by  a 
season  of  warm  and  moist  weather  in  the  autumn,  which  in- 
duces the  trees  to  vegetate  anew,  and  put  forth  the  blossoms 
which  nature  had  provided  for  the  subsequent. year.  The 
following  winter  frosts  of  course  destroy  these  germs,  and  the 
tree  for  a  year  remains  fruitless.  This,  however,  is  not  be- 
lieved to  occur  more  frequently,  or  be  more  injurious,  than  are 
late  spring  frosts  in  more  northern  parts  of  the  world. 

FIGS,  ORANGES,  ETC.  Along  the  coast  and  in  the  more 
southern  parts  of  Texas,  the  orange,  lemon,  and  other  tropi- 
cal fruits,  may  be  cultivated  with  success,  and  probably  be- 
come a  profitable  part  of  husbandry.  In  the  interior,  and  far 
north  of  the  gulf,  the  trees  are  liable  to  occasional  injury  from 
severe  frosts,  which  sometimes  kill  all  the  branches,  and  for 
several  years  prevent  their  fruitfulness. 

Figs  and  prunes,  and*  probably  olives,  succeed  in  all  the 
central  parts  of  the  country,  and  may  be  produced  in  any  de- 


148  NOPAt,  CTR  FRICKLY  FEAR, 

sired  quantities.  Of  the  ?alue  of  the  fig,  it  is  difficult  for  per- 
sons not  familiar  with  them  to  form  an  adequate  estimate. 
From  the  smell  and  taste  of  the  unripe  fruit,  it  is  never  eaten 
while  immature.  When  ripe  it  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most 
nutritive,  healthful  and  abundant  of  all  fruits.  No  danger  is 
ever  apprehended  from  it  in  any  respect ;  nor  is  it  known  that 
its  effects  were  unfavorable  even  to  the  weakest  stomach.  In 
favorable  circumstances  the  tree  sometimes  produces  three 
crops  in  a  year,  though  one  full  crop  is  as  much  as  can  b« 
relied  upon. 

It  has  been  suggested  that  the  date-bearing  palm  might  be 
successfully  propagated.  Of  the  correctness  of  this  opinion, 
or  the  value  of  the  fruit  last  named,  nothing  definite  is  known 
to  the  writer. 

NOPAL,  or  Prickly  Pear,  (cactus  apuntia).  This  plant  has 
formerly  been  cultivated  to  a  considerable  extent  in  Mexico, 
upon  which  to  feed  the  insect  which  produces  the  cochineal. 

Its  culture  probably  still  continues  in  some  parts  of  that 
country,  but  has  not  been  introduced  into  Texas.  Though  to 
most  persons  in  the  United  States  this  plant  is  in  some  mea- 
sure known,  some  of  its  varieties,  and  its  great  growth  in 
Texas,  will,  to  numbers,  be  entirely  new. 

Wherever  it  is  found  in  the  United  States,  it  either  lies 
immediately  on  the  ground,  or  rises  but  the  width  of  one  sin- 
gle joint  above  it,  seldom  if  ever  exceeding  six  or  eight  inches 
in  height.  Here,  on  the  contrary,  it  often  stands  erect,  send- 
ing forth  frequent  and  large  joints,  spreading  as  they  rise, 
till  they  reach  a  height  of  ten,  twelve  or  more  feet.  In  this 
form  they  frequently  grow  in  thickets,  said  to  be  impenetrable 
by  man ;  a  fact  no  way  difficult  to  believe  by  any  one  ac- 
quainted with  their  sharp,  rough  and  rigid  spines,  and  num- 
berless fine  but  piercing  bristles  with  which  they  are  armed. 

The  fruit  of  this  plant  seen  in  Kentucky,  Tennessee  and 
other  parts  of  the  states,  is  small,  long,  of  a  reddish  brown, 
nearly  the  coloui  of  a  ripe  gooseberry,  of  a  slightly  acid  taste* 


DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    NOPAL.  149 

but  of  no  value.  The  fruit  of  the  Texian  nopal  is  of  two 
kinds,  one  of  which  is  pear  shaped,  and  of  a  scarlet  colour  5 
the  other  longer,  and  when  ripe  of  a  yellowish  white.  The 
latter  kind  is  in  great  request  in  the  towns  of  Mexico,  and 
commands  a  high  price. 

It  is  related  in  the  history  of  the  Mexican  revolution,  that 
the  army  of  General  Toledo,  after  being  defeated  by  the  roy- 
alists on  the  plains  of  Bexar,  in  the  year  1813,  was  preserved 
from  famine  by  the  fruit  of  the  nopal.  It  must  have  been 
abundant  indeed,  if  it  could  subsist  a  considerable  army  for 
any  length  of  time.  It  is  asserted  also  that  the  fruit  and 
young  leaves  of  the  cactus  (it  must  be  before  the  spines  be- 
come indurated,)  furnish  food  to  immense  numbers  of  cattle 
and  wild  horses.  It  is  questionable  however  whether  if  it 
were  removed,  the  grass  and  herbage  succeeding  it  would 
not  be  of  more  value. 

Of  this  singular  plant  their  are  said  to  be  twenty-eight  vari- 
eties. Most  of  these  are  cultivated  in  gardens,  and  many  of 
them  produce  beautiful  flowers.  Only  one  of  these  will  be 
here  noticed.  It  was  discovered  growing  in  an  open  prairie, 
in  a  hard  pebbly  piece  of  ground.  They  were  usually  called  by 
gardeners  Turk's  heads,  from  some  supposed  resemblance  to 
such  a  head  when  covered  with  a  turban.  The  plant  was  cir- 
cular, of  the  size  of  a  large  hat  crown,  one  or  two  inches  in 
thickness,  with  a  small  cavity  in  the  centre,  apparently  con- 
taining a  bud  or  germ  of  a  flower.  From  this  centre  to  the 
circumference  it  was  deeply  ribbed  with  regular  elevations 
and  depressions.  It  was  thickly  set  all  over  its  surface  with 
clusters  of  hard  and  sharp  thorns,  pointing  like  rays  in  differ- 
ent directions,  and  lying  flat  upon  the  surface  of  the  plant. 
In  feeling,  these  thorns  resembled  fish  bones.  Cutting 
through  the  plant,  the  substance  was  soft,  of  a  pale  green,  dif- 
fering but  little  from  the  surface.  It  was  moist,  and  tasted 
much  like  a  turnip  taken  from  the  ground  after  having  been 
frozen.  The  time  of  doing  this  was  in  January.  The  results 

J3* 


150  PLANTS    SUITBALE    FOR    HEDGES. 

of  such  an  examination  at  another  season  might  probably  be 
very  different. 

A  gentleman  long  resident  in  the  country  remarked,  that  to 
a  thirsty  traveller  in  summer  the  juice  of  one  of  those  plants 
is  abundant  and  exceedingly  refreshing.  He  stated  that  the 
juice  of  the  Turk's  head  in  a  sultry  day,  gave  much  more  re- 
lief to  thirst  than  the  best  water,  and  that  the  pleasant  effects 
of  it  generally  lasted  a  considerable  time.  In  dry  and  sandy 
regions,  where  springs  and  streams  of  water  are  of  infrequent 
occurrence,  in  the  latter  part  of  summer  and  autumn,  this 
plant  must  furnish  to  the  traveller  or  huntsman  a  desirable 
production. 

Some  persons,  from  the  peculiar  luxuriance  and  height  of 
the  nopal  in  these  regions,  have  supposed  that  it  might  be  ad- 
vantageously used  for  hedges.  As  however  when  cultivated 
for  feeding  the  cochineal  insect,  it  endures  not  more  than 
twelve  years,  it  is  doubtful  whether  its  durability  would  be 
sufficient  to  render  it  profitable,  if  in  other  respects  it  met  the 
desires  of  the  farmer.  This  doubt  deserves  the  more  regard, 
from  the  fact,  that  there  are  several  native  trees  which  pos- 
sess most  of  the  requisites  desirable  in  materials  for  living 

fences. 

* 

One  of  these  is  a  variety  of  the  hawthorn,  found  growing 
abundantly  wherever  its  growth  is  not  prevented  by  the  burn- 
ing of  the  grass.  It  differs  but  little  from  the  white  thorn  of 
the  northern  states,  grows  to  about  the  same  size,  is  equally 
hardy,  and  doubtless  quite  as  durable  and  tenacious  of  life.  It 
is  however  less  spinous,  though  this  may  be  owing  to  its  being 
found  only  in  dense  thickets,  where  the  young  branches  are 
more  tender  and  pliant. 

Of  the  value  and  durability  of  a  hedge  of  this  tree  there  is 
no  doubt.  Probably  its  seed,  like  that  of  the  other  varieties, 
would  need  to  be  scalded  in  order  to  induce  them  io  vegetate. 

The  musquit  tree  also,  which  has  been  previously  men- 
tioned is  evidently  well  adapted  for  the  same  purpose.  The 


LIVE    OAK    SHRUBBERY.  151 

enly  doubt  entertained  of  the  value  of  this  tree  for  hedges, 
seems  to  be,  whether  it  would  not  require  too  much  time  for 
it  to  arrive  at  sufficient  size  and  strength  to  resist  the  progress 
of  animals.  It  is  certainly  sufficiently  hardy,  durable  and 
rigid  for  every  purpose,  and  when  a  hedge  is  once  complete 
would  probably  be  as  durable  as  any  other  whatever. 

In  very  many  places  among  the  prairies  are  found  plats  of 
live  oak  shrubbery  growing  together,  as  thick  as  any  hedge 
need  to  do.  These  are  believed  to  grow  from  the  roots  of  a 
common  stock,  many  of  which  have  lasted  perhaps  for  centu- 
ries. The  tops  being  killed  by  the  burning  grass,  new  shoots 
sprung  up  from  the  ground  all  around  the  dead  stem.  These 
being  again  destroyed,  like  clusters  multiplied  around  each  of 
the  former  shoots,  and,  by  thus  continually  spreading,  they 
have  come  to  cover  considerable  areas  of  ground.  Several 
cart  loads  of  considerably  large  roots  have  sometimes  been 
collected  from  clearing  away  one  of  these  patches",  and  used 
for  fuel. 

These  shrubs,  or  the  young  trees  raised  from  seed,  it  is. 
thought  would  form  excellent  hedges,  which  would  last  as 
long  as  would  the  native  live  oaks,  whose  age  no  one  has 
ever  ventured  to  calculate.  The  only  objection  conceivable 
against  the  latter  variety  of  hedge,  is  that  this  tree  naturally 
grows  to  a  large  size,  and  its  roots  extend  themselves  to  a 
great  distance  through  the  soil,  and  would  hence  for  many 
yards  from  the  hedge  exhaust  the  productive  power  of  the 
land,,  and  lessen  the  product  of  crops. 

With  such  abundant  materials  for  living  and  durable  fences, 
the  people  certainly  need  not  tremble  lest  they  should  not  be 
able  to  protect  their  green  fields  and  ripening  harvests  from 
either  domestic  cattle,  or  the  devastations  of  wild  animals. 
Such  fences  in  their  results  will  be  cheaper,  and  far  more 
safe  from  injury  by  cattle  or  winds,  than  any  others  that  can 
be  made.  It  is  hence  highly  desirable,  that  the  comparative 


152  EXPERIMENTS    ON    HEDGING. 

value  of  each  of  the  above  articles  should  as  early  as  practi- 
cable be  carefully  tested  by  experiment. 

Will  not  some  of  the  intelligent  and  wealthy  planters  of  the 
Brazos  or  the  Colorado,  at  an  early  day,  commence  a  series 
of  experiments  on  a  subject  of  such  vital  interest  to  the 
country  ? 


INACCURACY    OF    WRITERS*  153 


NATIVE   TREES,   PLANTS,  ETC. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Tho  peccan  tree — ics  largo  giuwtii  ana  aDunuciiu  iruit. — Usage  orange- 
its  peculiarities. —  Cherry  laurel,  or  wild  peach. —  Prickly  ash. —  Wild 
China  tree. — Spanish  persimmon. — Cayenne  pepper. — Great  variety  of 
wild  beans. — Vanilla — its  value  and  peculiarities. — Sage. — Wild  rye.— 
Musquit  grass. —  Gama  grass. —  Native  clover.  —  Valuable  medicinal 
plants. — Mimosa  or  sensitive  plant. — Great  profusion  of  flowers,  etc.. 

THE  account  we  can  give  of  these  must  necessarily  be  imper- 
fect, because  we  have  not  only  not  visited  every  part  of  the 
country,  and  our  visit  embraced  merely  the  winter  season,  but 
because  such  information  as  could  be  obtained  from  books  and 
other  sources  within  our  reach,  is  evidently  imperfect  as  well 
as  frequently  inaccurate.  One  instance  out  of  many  like  it 
may  illustrate  how  much  inaccuracy  often  exists  in  the  works 
of  writers,  whose  usual  habits  of  observation  and  enquiry 
might  lead  us  to  expect  better  things. 

Two  writers  professedly  giving  accounts  of  the  history  and 
productions  of  Texas,  represent  the  native  cane  as  an  annual 
plant  which  grows  up  and  perishes  within  the  year.  One  of 
these  has  the  following  sentence  :  "The  sight  of  a  large  tract 
covered  with  so  rank  a  growth  of  an  annual  plant,  which  rises 
to  such  a  height,  decays  and  is  renewed  every  twelve  month, 
affords  a  striking  impression  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil."  The 
other,  speaking  of  the  cane,  remarks,  "  These  reeds  are  very 
slender,  and  grow  to  the  height  of  about  twenty-five  feet  in  & 


154  FOREST    TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 

single  season,  being  renewed  every  twelvemonth."  Both 
these  writers  have  resided  in  Texas,  and  been  familiar  with 
other  southern  portions  of  America,  and  how  they  could  ever 
have  conceived  that  the  wild  cane  of  the  canebrakes  was  an 
annual  plant  is  difficult  to  imagine.  That  its  natural  history 
is  but  imperfectly  understood,  at  least  by  most  of  even  the  in- 
telligent portion  of  community,  is  very  certain.  But  that  the 
reeds  continue  to  live  and  grow  several  years  in  succession  is 
matter  of  every  day's  observation  ;  and  that  at  long  intervals, 
extending  to  a  period  of  many  years,  it  produces  blossoms  (in 

*i.~  f -r  clumps,  like.  thp.  blossom  of  oats)  and  a  grain-like 

seed,  is  attested  by  all  the  older  inhabitants  of  Mississippi  and 
Louisiana. 

Like  most  jointed  plants  of  the  grass  and  grain  kinds,  the 
whole  thickets  of  cane  died  and  commenced  a  rapid  decay  as 
soon  as  the  ripened  seed  had  fallen  to  the  ground.*  Sensible 
of  the  difficulties  growing  out  of  these  circumstances,  the  ut- 
most care  will  be  used  to  give  the  best  information  to  be  pro- 
cured, and  as  far  as  possible  to  avoid  erroneous  statements. 

FOREST  TREES,  SHRUBS,  &c.  Many  of  these  have  been 
already  named,  and  the  peculiarities  of  some  of  them  in  part 
described.  Most  of  the  others  are  common  to  this  country 
and  many  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  hence  need  little 
description.  Among  the  larger  forest  trees  may  be  enumera- 
ted the  live  oak,  white  oak,  burr  oak,  red  oak,  jack  oak  or 
black  jack,  water  oak — a  beautiful  shade  tree,  post  oak,  ash, 
elm,  hickory,  black  walnut,  peccan,  cotton  wood,  hackberry, 
cypress,  yellow  or  short  leafed  pine,  sycamore  or  button  wood, 
wild  cherry,  box  elder,  a  variety  of  the  maple,  bois  d'  arc  or 

*  A  full  and  correct  description  of  this  interesting  plant,  including  its 
progress,  maturity,  fructification,  affinities  and  reproduction,  would  be  highly 
gratifying  to  the  curious  and  a  desideratum  to  the  public. 


PECCAN    TREK;  155 

osage  orange,  magnolia,  two  varieties,  linden*  or  bass  wood, 
the  locust,*  musquit,  hemlock  or  spruce  pine,*  persimmon  f  or 
American  date  cedar,  and  several  others.  In  one  catalogue 
of  forest  trees,  the  beech,  chesnut,  white  walnut  or  butternut, 
and  crab  apple,  are  enumerated.  Some  of  the  most  intelli- 
gent and  very  early  settlers  of  the  country  however  stated, 
that  they  had  not  seen  them.  In  some  parts  of  the  country, 
these  trees  are  not  found,  in  others  particular  kinds  are  rare, 
but  within  the  limits  of  the  republic  all  or  most  of  them 
grow  to  a  large  size,  and  for  some  purposes  are  valuable. 

Among  all  the  varieties  of  nut  trees  the  peccan,  a  variety, 
and  probably  the  most  choice  variety,  of  the  hickory,  is  one  of 
the  largest  and  most  productive.  Its  trunk  is  frequently  nearly 
three  feet  in  diameter,  its  branches  numerous  and  spreading, 
and  its  fruit  abundant.  Several  large  trees  have  been  known 
to  produce  twenty  to  thirty  bushels  in  a  season,  which, 
whether  gathered  for  sale  or  use,  or  allowed  to  remain  on  the 
ground  for  swine,  is  highly  valuable.  The  opinion  is  fre- 
quently expressed  that  they  are  for  fattening  hogs  quite  as 
good  as  corn.  The  timber  of  young  peccan  trees  is  here  re- 
garded as  the  most  suitable  material  for  axe  handles,  and  such 
other  purposes  as  require  both  hardness  and  freedom  from 
liability  to  break  when  bent. 

The  timber  of  the  burr  oak  is  used  for  various  purposes, 
especially  where  pliancy  and  toughness  in  the  green  state  are 
required,  such  as  hoops  for  the  more  delicate  cooper's  work, 
and  the  like. 

The  black  walnut  grows  to  a  great  size,  and  is  in  some 

*  Those  trees  thus  marked  have  not  been  found  in  Texas  by  the  writer, 
but  are  named  in  the  writings  of  others. 

t  This  tree  in  favorable  situations,  grows  to  a  great  height,  and  becomes 
quite  large,  the  female,  for  it  is  dioacious,  producing  immense  quantities  of 
fruit.  The  timber  is  firm,  solid,  not  easily  split,  and  highly  valuable  for 
many  purposes  of  building  machinery. 


156  OSAGE    ORANGE. 

parts  of  the  country  abundant.  The  timber  is  firm,  fine 
grained  and  admits  of  a  good  polish,  and  is  hence  highly 
prized  for  furniture.  In  the  interior  of  Texas  a  large  portion 
of  the  parlor  furniture  will  probably  be  made  from  this  tree. 
Its  timber  is  equally  valuable  also  for  all  purposes  where  du- 
rability, as  in  posts  and  fences,  is  required. 

The  Bois  d'Arc,  or  Osage  orange,  is  found  in  several  parte 
of  Texas,  and  in  the  adjoining  parts  of  Louisiana  and  Arkan- 
sas. In  most  places  its  growth  is  low  and  branching,  but  in 
others  tall  and  straight,  presenting  a  long  shaft  of  valuable 
timber.  Of  this  tree  little  has  been  known  till  within  a  few 
years,  and  even  now  the  full  character  and  worth  of  the  tree 
is  understood  by  very  few.  The  following  is  all  that  could 
be  learned  from  inquiry.  The  fruit  in  shape  and  appearance 
resembles  an  orange  but  is  much  larger,  the  seeds  are  distri- 
buted in  the  same  manner,  the  leaves  and  wood  also  resemble 
the  corresponding  parts  of  the  orange  tree.  Of  its  blossom 
no  clear  delineation  could  be  obtained.  The  following,  copied 
from  the  Texas  Telegraph,  is  from  the  pen  of  the  Hon.  Fran- 
cis Moore  of  Houston. 

"  The  Bois  d'Arc  trees  attain  a  remarkable  size,  and  are 
often  found  four  feet  in  diameter  and  eighty  feet  in  height. 
The  timber  of  this  tree  is  considered  very  valuable  on  account 
of  its  durability  and  great  solidity.  Its  fruit  resembles 
the  orange  but  is  much  larger,  being  often  four  or  five 
inches  in  diameter.  Horses,  hogs  and  horned  cattle  are  very 
fond  of  it,  and  find  in  the  forests  of  Bois  d'Arc  an  inexhaust- 
ible supply  of  substantial  food  during  the  autumnal  months." 

The  smaller  trees  and  shrubs  are  very  numerous  ;  to  be 
complete,  a  catalogue  of  them  must  be  very  extensive.  Of 
most  of  them  which  have  come  under  our  observation,  or  of 
which  we  have  definite  information,  we  shall  barely  give  the 
names  by  which  they  are  here  known,  only  mentioning  the 
characteristics  of  such  of  them  as  appear  to  be  important  or 


CHERRY  LAUREL,  OR  WILD  PEACH.         157 

singular.     The  following  list  comprises  most  of  those  which 
are  well  known. 

The  cherry  laurel  or  wild  peach,  evidently  a  variety  of  the 
cluster  cherry,  though  a  beautiful  evergreen  ;  the  wild  china 
tree,  resembling  in  its  fruit  and  flowers  the  beautiful  shade 
tree  from  which  it  takes  its  name  ;  sassafras,  willow,  chin- 
quapin or  dwarf  chesnut,  black  haw,  nearly  resembling  in 
some  respects  the  dogwood  ;  the  water  dogwood  (cornus  flori- 
da  aquatica),  sumach,  willow,  common  elder  (sambucusnigra), 
poison  elder,  red  bud,  shrub  oak,  witch  hazel,  holly,  prickly 
ash  or  toothache  tree,  very  different  from  the  prickly  ash  of 
the  northern  states  ;  wild  plum,  bayberry  or  wax  myrtle, 
yawpan  or  tea  tree,  moosewood,  fever  bush  or  spicewood, 
sweet  fern  raspberry,  whortleberry,  bush  cranberry,  Indian, 
arrow,  red  haw,  mulberry,  blackberry,  caoutchouc  or  India 
rubber  tree,  pawpaw  or  custard  apple,  Spanish  persimmon, 
wild  privet,  gum  or  pepperage,  wild  rose,  green  briars,  and  a 
variety  of  it  sometimes  called  china  briar ;  trumpet  flower, 
cross  vine  or  tea  vine,  yellow  jessamine,  horse  chesnut,  stand- 
ard and  dwarf  kinds,  the  latter  with  beautiful  scarlet  flowers  ; 
elbow  (globus  occidentalis),  and  many  others. 

The  cherry  laurel,  or  wild  peach,  is  found  solely  in  rich 
bottoms,  and  is  regarded  as  a  sure  indication  of  a  most  exu- 
berant soil.  Its  name  of  peach  is  altogether  inappropriate, 
having  no  other  likeness  to  it  than  every  other  cherry  has. 
Like  the  leaves  and  kernel  of  the  peach  and  wild  cherry  the 
leaf  and  fruit  partake  largely  of  prussic  acid,  from  which  they 
derive  their  peculiar  flavor.  Its  blossoms  are  disposed  in  a 
cluster,  like  those  of  the  common  black  cherry,  and  the  ripe 
fruit  is  a  small  drupe  with  a  black  skin,  thin  green  pulp  and 
large  pit,  the  latter  being  scarcely  distinguishable  from  oth%r 
cherry  stones.  When  cultivated  as  an  ornamental  tree,  it 
forms  a  beautiful  top,  and  continues  through  the  year  of  a 
brilliant  and  glossy  green  color.  Some  persons  admiring  the 
ever  fresh  verdure  and  beauty  of  it,  have  not  inappropriately 

14 


158  WILD    CHINA    TREE. 

named  it  gloria  mundi.  The  fruit  of  this  tree  is  thought  by 
some  to  be  valuable  food  for  swine,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether 
a  free  meal  would  not  be  injurious  or  deadly  to  them  from  the 
effects  of  the  prussic  acid.  The  leaves  and  twigs  of  it  have 
been  known  to  poison  cows  which  had  eaten  of  them  too 
freely. 

The  prickly  ash  (Xanthoxilum),  is  peculiar  to  regions  south 
of  Tennessee  and  North  Carolina.  It  does  not  seem  to  belong 
to  the  fraxinus  order  at  all,  but  bears  a  cluster  of  berries  in  a 
large  panicle,  which  in  some  degree  resemble  in  appearance 
elder  berries.  The  young  twigs  are  armed  with  short  but 
sharp  spurs  of  thorns,  like  some  varieties  of  the  rose  bush. 
As  the  branch  or  stem  increases  in  size  these  disappear,  but 
that  part  of  the  bark  upon  which  they  rested  protrudes  out- 
ward in  numerous  dull-pointed  projections,  causing  the  surface 
to  appear  as  if  thickly  studded  with  large  warts.  The  inner 
bark  of  this  tree  when  chewed,  produces  in  the  mouth  and 
fauces  a  sensation  of  sharp  coolness  quickly  followed  by  pun- 
gent excitement,  in  some  degree  painful  and  inducing  an  inor- 
dinate salivary  discharge.  It  requires  sometime  to  remove 
the  effect  produced  upon  the  mouth,  and  little  benefit  seems 
to  be  derived  from  washing  it  with  water  or  other  substances. 
It  is  said  that  chewing  this  bark  frequently  relieves  the  tooth- 
ache, (probably  only  while  the  irritatkm  of  the  mouth  lasts), 
and  hence  it  derives  its  name. 

The  wild  china  tree  b  probably  peculiar  to  Texas,  or  Texas 
and  Mexico.  At  least  no  such  tree  has  been  noticed,  it  is  be- 
lieved, in  any  part  of  the  United  States.  Growing  in  the 
woods,  its  stem  is  larger  and  less  straight  than  the  shade  tree 
of  that  name.  The  bark  wears  quite  a  different  aspect,  but 
tfle  berries  in  winter  exactly  resemble  those  of  the  commoi. 
tree.  It  is  declared  that  the  leaves  and  flowers  differ  little  if 
any  from  those  of  that  brilliant  and  gorgeous  ornament  of 
southern  yards.  Whether  it  will  be  found  valuable  or  not  is 
yet  unknown. 


SPANISH    PERSIMMON.  159 

Of  the  Spanish  persimmon,  though  declared  to  be  an  excel- 
lent and  highly  saccharine  fruit,  but  little  clear  information 
could  be  obtained.  It  seems  understood  that  the  tree  produc- 
ing it  is  not  large,  with  leaves  more  resembling  elm  leaves 
than  those  of  the  ordinary  persimmon.  The  fruit  is  black,  or 
a  very  dark  purplish  blue,  about  the  size  of  ordinary  persim- 
mons, but  much  sweeter.  The  seeds,  and  their  arrangement 
in  the  fruit,  correspond  with  those  of  the  more  common  variety. 
To  what  class  or  family  of  trees  these  should  be  referred,  is 
left  for  the  future  investigation  of  observers  of  nature.  Much 
might  be  said  of  the  qualities  and- uses  of  many  other  of  the 
shrubs  and  vines  above  enumerated,  but  enough  has  been  told 
to  prove  the  abundance,  beauty  and  usefulness  of  many  of  the 
trees,  shrubs  and  climbing  vines  of  Texas. 

Should  any  one  suppose  that  all  that  is  surprising  and  cu- 
rious in  this  part  of  Texian  productions  is  included  in  this 
notice,  he  may  well  be  informed  that  scarce  a  beginning  has 
been  made  even  in  the  names  of  the  branchy  trunks  that  com- 
pose the  forest.  To  appreciate  in  any  adequate  degree  the 
abundance  and  variety  of  the  native  shrubbery  and  woodland 
of  this  country,  it  is  necessary  to  visit  it  in  April  and  May, 
when  nearly  every  plant,  however  modest,  lifts  its  head  and 
claims  a  share  of  countenance  from  the  sun,  the  common 
source  of  light  and  beauty.  Then  every  lowly  bush  and  tow- 
ering tree  puts  on  a  garment  of  loveliness,  and  unites  with 
myriads  of  others  to  send  forth  a  fragrance  of  mingled  sweets 
to  regale  and  refresh  the  senses  of  the  delighted  spectators. 

Of  Uie  plants,  flowers,  &c.  of  this  country  our  limited  infor- 
mation enables  us  to  furnish  but  a  very  meagre  account.  From 
neither  books,  papers  or  individuals,  have  we  ascertained  any 
thing  like  even  a  list  of  the  more  common  and  widely  diffused 
plants.  It  is  hoped  that  some  of  the  enterprising  and  scientific 
physicians  of  the  country  will  soon  commence  herbaria,  and 
in  due  time  furnish  to  the  public,  and  especially  their  own 
profession,  a  full  and  well  arranged  flora  of  the  whole  region. 


160  CAYENNE    PEPPER. 

Among  the  plants  ought  perhaps  to  be  mentioned  the  wild 
cane,  of  which  however  sufficient  notice  has  been  already 
taken. 

Here  also,  growing  natively  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  is 
the  cayenne  pepper,  called  by  the  Mexicans  Chili.  Several 
varieties  are  described,  differing  perhaps  only  in  the  degree 
of  their  strength.  Some  of  them  produce  large  red  pods,  others 
small  tapering  ones  like  those  usually  found  bottled  in  vinegar, 
others  small  round  ones,  little  if  any  larger  than  buckshot,  and 
some  the  small  yellow  pod,  believed  to  be  the  same  variety 
•with  the  most  active  kind  imported  from  Africa. 

Among  the  Mexicans,  and  very  many  of  the  settlers  from 
the  United  States,  this  plant  furnishes  a  favorite  sauce  to  use 
with  all  kinds  of  meats,  and  large  portions  of  it  are  used  in 
various  kinds  of  cookery.  It  forms  in  many  cities,  both  at  the 
north  and  south,  a  very  popular  condiment,  and  the  amount 
consumed  is  annually  increasing.  However  great  may  here- 
after be  the  demand  for  this  article,  the  Texians  can  easily 
meet  it  with  full  supplies,  and  those  of  the  very  best  quality. 
Tobacco  is  also  indigenous  to  the  country,  but  no  reason  it  is 
believed  can  be  assigned  for  wishing  it  to  become  an  article 
of  commerce  in  this  or  in  any  other  country. 

Of  all  the  luxuries  in  which  men  indulge,  the  use  of  tobacco 
is  the  most  artificial  and  unnatural.  It  contributes  nothing 
towards  the  support  of  animal  life,  its  use  is  an  uncleanly  and 
disgusting  habit,  and  one  to  which  men  have  no  natural  dis- 
positions, nor  can  they  acquire  it  without  repeated  efforts  and 
persevering  exertions.  In  learning  to  use  tobacco  the,  indivi- 
dual, with  much  expense,  labor  and  some  suffering,  learns  a 
habit  which  is  utterly  useless,  troublesome  and  expensive  to 
himself,  and  frequently  painful  and  disagreeable  to  his  friends, 
It  was  well  said  by  a  distinguished  physician  of  Kentucky, 
that  "  the  tobacco  chewer  is  an  unclean  animal."  Without 
objecting  to  it  as  criminal,  we  may  dissuade  from  it  as  foolish 
and  unseemly^ 


VANILLA.  161 

A  great  variety  of  wild  beans  and  peas  are  found  in  different 
parts  of  this  country,  some  of  which  are  distinguished  for  the 
beauty  of  their  flowers,  and  others  for  the  uses  to  which  they 
may  be  applied.  One  of  these,  the  Erythrina  herbacea,  has  a 
perennial  root  which  throws  up  from  one  to  six,  eight  or  ten 
shoots,  according  to  its  strength.  In  some  cases  these  shoots 
or  stalks  arise  to  the  height  of  six  feet  or  more,  some  of  them 
adorned  with  numerous  glossy  and  beautiful  leaves  throughout 
their  length;  the  rest  have  but  one  or  two  leaves  each,  above 
which,  encircling  the  stalk,  are  seen  frequent  rings  of  deep 
scarlet  or  rather  crimson  flowers.  When  these  have  per- 
formed their  office  they  are  succeeded  by  fruit  pods  or  siliquae, 
bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to  the  pods  of  the  cranberry 
bean.  When  ripe  the  little  beans  are  of  a  bright  scarlet  color 
and  highy  beautiful.  This  plant  is  frequently  cultivated  for 
ornament,  and  has  been  named  near  Nat«hez  the  "  Pride  of 
Mississippi." 

That  variety  of  the  bean  called  in  gardens  the  clematis  or 
virgin  bower,  so  much  admired  for  its  fine  clusters  of  blue 
flowers,  is  quite  common  along  the  streams  and  bottom  lands 
of  Texas.  The  flowers  of  these  wild  vines  however  exhibit 
some  variety  of  coloring,  some  being  more  deeply  and  beauti- 
fully tinged  than  the  others. 

Another  plant  of  the  bean  kind  found  native  in  Texas  is  the 
vanilla,  regarded  in  Europe  and  America  one  of  the  choicest 
perfumes  found  in  the  shops  of  the  confectioner.  The  fact 
that  it  is  indigenous  in  the-  country,  sufficiently  proves  that  it 
may  be  successfully  cultivated,  and  its  high  price  warrants 
the  conclusion  that  the  culture  would  amply  repay  the  atten- 
tion bestowed  upon  it.  The  following  description  we  copy 
from  a  late  writer. 

"  VANILLA.  This  curious  and  very  rare  vine  is  about  the 
size  of  a  quill,  the  stem  green,  glossy  and  smooth,  the  leaves 
project  by  pairs  from  joints  eight  or  ten  inches  apart.  They 


162"  VANILLA    AN    ARTICLE    OF   COMMERCE. 

are  large  and  thick  as  sheathing  paper,  succulent  and  brittle 
and  shaped  like  pear  leaves. 

"  The  vanilla  is  propagated  by  planting,  or  by  inserting  it 
into  the  bark  of  some  soft  wood  tree,  always  where  it  is  shady 
and  humid.  It  soon  attaches  itself  to  the  surrounding  branches, 
and  in  three  years  will  overtop  the  highest  trees,  suspending 
from  its  extremity  the  fruit,  which  consists  of  pods  resembling 
the  common  kidney  bean.  These  pods  can  only  be  obtained 
by  felling  the  tree  which  could  not  be  climbed,  or  by  an  in- 
strument attached  to  a  long  pole.  , 

"  To  prepare  it  as  an  article  of  commerce,  the  greatest 
attention  is  required  in  curing  and  packing  the  vanilla.  Each 
pod  must  be  separately  bound  round  with  thread,  but  slightly, 
that  it  may  not  warp  and  open.  During  the  process  of  drying, 
if  not  perfectly  ripe,  it  changes  its  color  from  green  to  brown 
or  nearly  black,  and  exudes  on  handling  it,  an  oil  balsamic, 
and  almost  insupportably  fragrant.  The  greatest  care  must 
be  taken  to  prevent  the  loss  of  this  odour,  for  if  it  does  not 
discharge  sufficiently  of  its  balm  it  will  sour  and  corrupt,  and 
if  its  emanations  are  too  copious,  its  virtue  is  diminished. 
The  art  of  curing  therefore  lies  in  avoiding  excess  either 
way ;  and  when  dry  it  must  be  packed  so  that  it  may  arrive 
at  a  foreign  market  in  proper  order.  To  secure  this  point  it 
is  carefully  wrapped  up  in  leaves  with  honey,  to  keep  a  cer- 
tain degree  of  moisture,  in  bundles  of  fifty,  and  put  up  in 
wooden  boxes.  Tin  and  sealed  would  be  better. 

"  The  pod  of  the  vanilla  contains  thousands  of  small  black 
seeds  of  the  brilliancy  of  jet. 

"  This  delicious  plant  is  highly  esteemed  in  medicine — as 
a  perfume — and  in  various  culinary  arts.  Its  rich  qualities 
may  be  preserved  in  spirits  of  wine,  which  extracts  its  resin- 
ous substance.  It  is  in  this  form  that  the  luxurious  in  Mexico, 
Madrid,  Paris  and  London,  adapt  it  to  a  variety  of  uses  ;  as, 
for  instance,  with  chocolate,  ices,  jellies,  and  various  sauces 


NATIVE    SAGE.  163 

and  confectionary.  That  which  is  perfect  frequently  com- 
mands double  its  weight  of  silver,  in  some  of  the  Europeaa 
cities  and  those  of  Africa.  Its  price  is  from  three  to  ten  dol- 
lars per  pound,  but  not  one  of  a  hundred  pounds  ever  arrives 
in  its  pure  quality." 

Native  sage  of  two  kinds  is  found  in  various  places,  equal 
in  all  important  qualities  to  the  garden  plant  in  the  States, 
and  which  may  be  easily  cultivated.  Wild  indigo  has  been 
already  noticed.  It  is  regarded  as  equal  if  not  superior  to  the- 
plant  usually  cultivated.  In  many  places  wild  peas  of  different 
kinds  grow  in  great  abundance.  During  the  autumn  the  vines 
and  fruit  furnish  to  cattle  and  horses  abundant  and  most  nutri- 
tious pasturage,  nearly  if  not  quite  equal  to  an  unharvested 
corn  field.  To  those  acquainted  with  this  article  these  state-^ 
ments  will  require  no  confirmation. 

In  many  of  the  bottom  lands  along  the  rivers,  the  ground 
bears  a  beautiful  winter  carpet  of  brilliant  green  composed  of 
the  wild  rye.  It  appears  to  be  a  native  variety  of  that  grain. 
Its  berry  is  not  large,  but  the  form  of  the  stalk  and  head  all 
mark  it  as  being  a  real  secale  cereale.  It  is  peculiarly  valu- 
able as  a  winter  pasture,  shooting  up  about  the  early  part  of 
November  and  retaining  its  freshness  till  after  the  spring 
grasses  have  become  abundant.  As  a  pasture  it  is  sweet  and 
nutritious,  and  cattle  or  horses  thrive  upon  it  during  the  se-» 
verest  parts  of  the  season.  Whether  it  might  not  be  well  to 
sow  it  for  milch  cows  or  horses  is  worthy  of  consideration 
and  experiment,  especially  as  the  increasing  numbers  of  cattle 
seem  likely  soon  to  entirely  consume  it* 

In  connection  with  the  above,  it  seems  appropriate  to  speak 
of  the  musquit  grass,  so  called  perhaps  from  the  musquit  tree, 
of  which  it  seems  to  be  a  sure  concomitant.  Although  this 
has  been  previously  mentioned,  its  valuable  qualities  will  apo- 
logise for  some  further  remarks.  In  answer  to  a  suggestion 
of  the  propriety  of  sowing  it  in  fields,  a  farmer  remarked,  that 


164  GA.MA    GRASS. 

for  this  there  was  no  necessity,  so  readily  does  it  spontane- 
ously clothe  the  ground  once  cultivated  that  the  only  difficulty 
is  to  prevent  its  injuring  the  other  crops.  This  circumstance, 
added  to  its  vigorous  growth,  and  retaining  its  verdure  and 
nutritive  qualities  during  the  winter,  clearly  indicate  its  great 
value  for  pasturage.  A  wealthy  and  highly  intelligent  planter 
of  Tennessee,  lately  on  a  visit  to  Texas,  was  so  convinced  of 
the  excellence  of  this  grass,  that  he  took  measures  to  procure 
the  seed  to  sow  upon  his  own  plantation  near  the  city  of 
Nashville. 

The  gama  grass  also  is  an  interesting  production  indigenous 
in  Texas.  In  the  southern  parts  of  the  country,  between  the 
Guadalupe  and  the  San  Jacinto,  it  frequently  occurs  in  great 
abundance.  Perhaps  no  variety  of  all  the  family  of  grasses 
grows  more  luxuriously,  or  produces  a  greater  amount  of  pas- 
ture in  a  given  space  than  this.  It  has  been  known  within 
four  hours  after  being  mown,  to  throw  out  shoots  the  eighth 
of  an  inch  long.  It  is  evidently  a  rich  and  agreeable  pasture 
for  horses  and  all  ruminating  animals.  They  eat  it  with  greedi- 
ness, and  where  it  is  plenty  fatten  freely  upon  it.  It  is  declared 
that  it  retains  its  freshness  and  sweetness  throughout  the  winter 
season,  and  that  in  regions  where  it  grows  no  want  is  felt  by 
any  domestic  cattle  of  succulent  food.  Thus  the  interior  is 
favored  with  the  ever  verdant  and  rich  musquit,  and  the  coast 
with  the  no  less  durable  and  nourishing  pasture  of  gama  grass. 
If  there  be  one  section  of  North  America  more  adapted  than 
others  to  successful  exertion  in  rearing  stock,  for  driving  or 
for  beef,  that  favored  spot  would  seem  to  be  found  in  this  more 
than  Arcadia,  for  here  our  flocks  need  not  the  constant  attend- 
ance of  the  herdsman. 

Two  varieties  of  native  clover  have  been  discovered  in 
Texas.  Being  natives  of  both  the  climate  and  soil  little  doubt 
can  exist  that  they  would  improve  by  cultivation.  Of  their 
peculiarities  or  value  no  special  account  seems  to  have  been 


MIMOSA,    OR    SENSITIVE    PLANT.  165 

taken.  Future  naturalists  may  investigate  their  peculiarities, 
but  it  belongs  to  the  husbandman  to  test  their  value  to  his 
cattle. 

The  following,  among  numberless  others,  form  a  small  part 
of  the  root  plants  valued  either  for  their  medicinal  or  other 
qualities  :  spikenard,  elecampane,  angelica,  sarsaparilla,  gin- 
seng, liquorice,  May  apple  or  mandrake,  (podophyllum  pelta- 
turn),  several  varieties  of  the  convolvulus,  including  the  pan* 
duratus  or  man-root;  it  is  believed  that  the  convolvulus  jalapa, 
producing  the  jalap,  may  be  grown  here  without  difficulty  or 
expense,  snake  root,  blood-root,  (sanguinaria  canadensis)  wild 
parsnip,  (conium  maculatum)  several  varieties  of  wild  onions 
or  garlicks,  white  and  black  hellebore,  and  arrow-root,  witbi 
numerous  others. 

The  singular  and  beautiful  plant,  from  its  apparently  imi- 
tating animal  actions,  called  the  mimosa  or  sensitive  plant,, 
grows  spontaneously  in  many  places,  and  even  covering  acres 
of  ground  with  its  beautiful  and  delicate  verdure  and  flowers. 
To  one  unacquainted  with  its  properties,  it  would  seem  ex- 
ceedingly  strange,  while  passing  over  a  plat  of  thick  grown 
herbage  of  this  kind,  to  see  it  all  apparently  wilted,  as  if  it 
had  been  severed  from  its  roots  by  the  scythe  ;  nor  less  pro- 
bably would  such  an  individual  be  surprised,  if  pausing  for  a 
few  moments,  the  leaves  should  again  expand  before  him,  and 
display  to  his  view  all  their  original  and  native  beauties. 

So  easily  is  the  effect  of  closing  their  leaves  produced,  that 
for  some  time  before  the  tread  of  the  observer,  the  planta 
seem  to  perceive  his  approach,  and,  with  all  the  delicacy  of 
oriental  ladies,  veil  their  faces  from  his  view.  The  peti- 
oles or  footstalks  of  the  leaves  have  numerous  leaflets  on  each 
side,  which,  upon  being  touched,  or  even  slightly  agitated, 
rise  upward,  and  meeting  at  the  top,  hide  their  upper  surface 
from  the  view,  and  expose  the  paler  color  of  their  wide? 
sides,  which  gives  them  the  appearance  of  being  wilted. 


166  TEXAS    A    PARADISE    OF    FLOWERS. 

The  flowers  of  the  Texian  mimosa  are  of  a  delicate  pink 
color,  much  larger  and  more  beautiful  than  those  of  the  gar- 
den plant  at  the  north.  The  gentle  acclivities  from  the  banks 
of  rivers  or  brooks,  are  the  favorite  positions  of  this  peculiar 
and  delicate  vegetable. 

Several  attempts  have  been  made  to  account  philosophically 
for  the  sensitiveness  of  this  plant,  and  for  retracting  its  foliage 
in  apparent  anticipation  of  the  approach  of  intruders.  The 
more  general  impression  seems  to  be,  that  the  reason  for  its 
delicate  sensibility  is  yet  not  fully  understood,  and  that  from 
the  connection  of  its  roots  or  stems  the  effect  of  a  footfall 
reaches  many  of  them  at  some  distance  from  where  it  touches 
the  ground.  Such  discussions  however  are  left  to  the  curious, 
who  will  no  doubt  find  in  this  plant  objects  of  pleasing  inves- 
tigation. 

Flowering  and  other  plants  of  the  prairies  and  woodlands 
are  literally  innumerable.  At  any  time  from  March  to  No- 
vember, almost  the  whole  country  exhibits  all  the  brilliancy, 
variety,  delicacy  and  fragrance  of  a  carefully  cultivated  flower 
garden.  In  April  and  May  it  has  been  said  the  prairies  con- 
stitute "  a  paradise  "  of  flowers. 

If  such  allusions  are  chargeable  with  hyperbole,  and  per- 
haps savor  of  irreverence,  truth  will  fully  justify  the  allegation 
that  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  these  savannahs  are  one 
continued  wilderness  of  flowers,  beauty  and  fragrant  odors. 
While  enjoying  the  loveliness,  and  inhaling  the  delightful  and 
exhilarating  atmosphere  laden  with  the  perfumes  of  millions 
of  flowers,  the  heart  may  be  allowed  innocently  to  indulge  its 
tendency  to  rhapsody,  and  pour  out  its  emotions  in  the  lan- 
guage of  poetry  and  imagination. 

Indeed,  description  to  be  true,  must  lay  aside  her  staid  and 
measured  words,  and  discourse  in  the  language  of  impassioned 
feeling  and  glowing  eloquence.  Nay,  to  convey  to  the  mind  of 
the  mere  reader  an  adequate  conception  of  the  richness,  extent, 


DAHLIAS    AND    GERANIUMS.  167 

beauty  and  touching  loveliness  of  these  plains  in  the  vernal 
season,  would  require  a  language  unknown  to  earth,  and  fitted 
to  express  the  risings  of  more  than  mortal  joy.  Here  the 
philanthropist  and  Christian,  viewing  on  every  side  the  works 
and  beneficence  of  his  Creator,  and  touched  with  a  sense  01 
the  munificence  of  Heaven  to  himself,  must  feel  his  heart 
dilate  with  benevolence,  and  his  soul  ready  to  burst  forth  into 
songs  of  grateful  praise. 

A  very  few  only  of  the  immense  varieties  that  deck  and 
adorn  this  flower  garden  of  nature,  can  here  be  even  enumerated. 
Among  that  few  are  all  the  varieties  denominated,  from  the 
starlike  radiations  of  their  petals,  stellaria,  besprinkle  the  land- 
scape with  their  yellow,  blue  and  purple  flowers.  The  ane- 
mone of  different  hues,  white,  purple  and  scarlet,  lifts  its  little 
head  to  the  breeze  even  in  January,  regardless  of  the  northern 
blasts  that  may  in  a  few  hours  bear  on  its  wings  the  frosts 
that  shall  dim  their  fair  colors  for  ever. 

The  dahlia,  proudest  of  all  the  gaudy  tenants  of  the  autum- 
nal garden,  so  much  admired  and  so  extensively  cultivated,  is 
declared  to  be  indigenous  in  Texas.  If  so,  it  is  probably  the 
only  place  north  of  the  equator  where  it  is  so.* 

Geraniums  in  great  numbers  and  variety,  annual  and  peren- 
nial, are  found  diffused  through  large  portions  of  the  country. 
Some  of  these  are  said  to  be  delightfully  odorous,  while  others 
are  exceedingly  beautiful.  A  single  branch,  from  a  root  from 
which  several  shoots  were  growing,  was  found  in  full  blossom 
by  the  writer  in  the  latter  part  of  January,  1840.  The  flowers 
were  of  a  deep  scarlet  or  light  crimson,  arranged  together  so 
as  to  form  a  rounded  umbel  of  great  beauty  and  elegance. 
Whether  these  or  the  plant  possessed  any  odor  the  observer 
did  not  ascertain.  Probably  these  flowers  may  continue  to 
appear  in  succession  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  year. 

*  Some  doubt  has  been  expressed  whether  the  plant  supposed  to  be  the 
dahlia,  both  in  Texas  and  other  southern  regions,  does  not  belong  to  a  dif- 
ferent genus  of  plants,  the  Reedbeckia. 


168  LILIES,    PASSION    FLOWER,    ETC. 

Lilies  of  various  sizes  and  different  colors  adorn  the  prai- 
ries, bottoms  and  woodlands  of  Texas.  Some  of  these  are 
exceedingly  small,  and  are  found  in  blossom  among  the  ear- 
liest of  the  flowers  of  spring ;  others  appear  at  different  times, 
most  of  them  white,  though  some  are  yellow,  purple  and  va- 
riegated. By  lily  is  not  here  understood  any  of  the  numerous 
varieties  of  the  Iris  family.  They  also  are  found  in  many 
places  in  Texas,  some  of  which  might  properly  be  added  to 
the  number  of  those  which  adorn  the  gardens  of  the  wealthy. 

The  lobelia  inflata  and  cardinalis  is  found  plentifully  in 
various  places.  The  lignonia  or  trumpet  flower,  with  scarlet 
blossoms  and  an  evergreen  variety,  with  flowers  of  a  bright 
color  combining  the  yellow  and  scarlet.  Both  elegant  climb- 
ers, especially  the  latter,  whose  bright  foliage  in  winter  wears 
the  appearance  of  the  most  exuberant  freshness  and  verdure. 

The  passion  flower,  which  is  so  much  and  so  justly  ad- 
mired in  the  northern  states  and  in  all  Europe,  is  a  plant  of 
frequent  occurrence  in  Texas.  Different  varieties  are  be- 
lieved to  grow  in  various  situations.  One  very  small  and 
delicate  species  has  not  been  cultivated.  Like  the  larger 
variety  it  is  an  annual  vine  springing  from  a  perennial  root. 
The  leaves  are  small  and  rounded,  the  vine  slender,  and  the 
flowers  not  larger  when  fully  expanded  than  a  five  cent  piece. 
The  flower  resembles  the  common  variety  exactly  except  in 
size  and  color,  the  latter  being  less  deeply  tinged  than  those 
of  their  more  gorgeous  fellows.  Whether  all  the  five  or  six 
species  of  this  beautiful  production  of  America,  to  which 
country  it  is  peculiar,  are  natives  of  the  republic,  has  not  been 
determined. 

Digitalis  of  different  kinds,  wild  holly  hocks,  believed  to  be 
a  large  flower  of  the  family  columnifera,  wild  pinks,  sarrace- 
nia  or  side-saddle  flower,  pond  lilies,  cypripedum  or  lady's 
slipper,  ground  apple,  and  violets  of  numerous  kinds. 

The  above  is  merely  a  specimen  of  what  detailed  in  full 
would  fill  a  considerable  volume.  It  is  however  sufficient  to 


TEXAS  THE  FLORIST'S  TREASURY.  169 

show  that  the  florist  may  here  luxuriate  freely  and  long  in  un- 
numbered varieties  of  flowers  and  plants,  without  fear  of  early 
exhausting  the  materials  of  botanic  inquiry  and  research.  In 
the  vernal  season  and  in  much  of  the  summer,  the  prairies 
appear  to  be  covered  with  a  gorgeous  carpet  of  green,  em- 
broidered throughout  with  innumerable  clusters  and  waving 
plumes  of  flowers,  too  exquisitely  beautiful  and  variegated 
ever  to  be  mistaken  for  the  production  of  any  other  being  than 
the  Deity. 


15 


170  CHARACTER    OF    THE    fiOIL. 


GEOLOGY,   MINERALS,    ETC. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Petrified  shells  found  on  the  elevated  prairies.  —  Animal  remains  disco- 
rered  imbedded  in  the  earth. —  Most  of  the  rocks  composed  of  lime- 
stone. —  Iron  abounds  in  rocks  and  in  oxide.  —  Coal  in  inexhaustible 
quantities. — Lead  ore. — Copper  mines  discovered. — Silver  mines  once 
worked  in  Texas  — Gold  found. — Marble. — Singular  mass  of  metal. — 
Petrified  wood. — Salt. — Copperas  — Alum. — Sulphur  springs,  etc. 

'THIS  department  of  an  account  of  Texas,  so  far  as  it  relates 
to  the  formation  and  generic  character  of  the  country  is  sim- 
ple, and  would  require  but  little  time  or  room,  if  the  curiosity 
of  philosophers  were  our  only  object.  As  however  it  is  in- 
tended rather  to  be  useful  to  the  common  reader,  and  those 
who  may  wish  to  emigrate  to  this  country,  we  shall  not  be 
specially  careful  to  frame  our  work  to  the  taste  of  professors 
and  learned  amateurs  in  the  science  of  geology  or  mineralogy. 
To  the  practical  farmer  and  mechanic,  who  is  about  to  change 
his  position  and  find  a  new  place  of  residence,  it  is  hoped  that 
these  sheets  will  convey  useful  information. 

As  will  naturally  be  inferred  by  every  reader  who  has  turn- 
ed over  the  previous  pages,  veiy  much  of  the  surface  of  Texas 
is  alluvial,  and  composed  of  such  materials  as  have  either 
been  brought  down  from  the  highlands  by  the  water  courses, 
or  driven  on  shore  by  the  waves  of  that  inland  sea  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  From  the  latter  source  is  perhaps  derived  a  consi- 


STRATA.  171 

derable  portion  of  the  deeper  parts  of  the  soil  of  the  maritime 
district,  except  near  the  mouths  of  rivers  and  considerable 
streams.  Even  where  the  lower  strata  may  be  composed  of 
submarine  materials,  the  upper  portions  appear  evidently  to 
consist  of  earths  and  other  deposits  derived  from  different 
sources.  A  considerable  amount  of  tenacious  and  firm  earth 
is  found  upon  the  surface  even  near  the  gulf,  and  hence  could 
not  be  the  effect  of  the  waves,  which  would  cast  up  little  else 
but  sand  and  still  lighter  substances.  Inland  also  an  unusually 
large  proportion  of  the  country  is  made  up  of  the  alluvial  bot- 
toms of  the  rivers  and  smaller  streams. 

Of  this  part  of  the  geology  it  will  not  be  necessary  to  say 
much,  as  all  its  uses  for  agriculture  are  well  understood.  In 
this  region,  whether  on  the  bottoms  or  uplands,  stone,  either 
pebbles  or  larger  kinds,  are  seldom  if  ever  found,  the  soil 
being  composed  in  the  bottoms  of  rich  black  mould,  into  which 
decomposed  vegetable  matter  largely  enters,  and  the  uplands 
of  various  materials,  embracing,  quite  often,  oyster,  muscle 
and  other  sea  shells,  partially  decomposed,  forming  a  rich 
loam  admirably  fitted  for  agricultural  purposes. 

Before  reaching  the  undulating  region,  there  are  found 
resting  upon  the  even  surface  of  the  prairie,  eminences  or 
mounds,  the  ascent  of  which  however  is  gradual  and  wave-like, 
composed  it  would  seem  mostly  of  shells  of  oysters,  and  other 
fish  and  marine  substances,  indicating  very  clearly  that  this 
part  of  the  country  had  once  been  covered  by  the  waters  of 
the  ocean  ;  when  the  animals  whose  remains  form  these  coni- 
cal hills,  by  long-continued  accumulations,  raised  these  piles, 
whose  existence  now  testifies  the  former  submersion  of  the 
land.  From  these  elevations,  not  ever  exceeding  one  hundred 
feet  in  height,  it  is  said  the  whole  country  for  thirty  miles  in 
extent  becomes  visible.  This  will  at  least  prove  the  remark- 
ably level  and  even  surface  of  this  part  of  the  country. 

Advancing  from  the  coast  among  the  undulating  prairies. 


172  ANIMAL    REMAINS. 

frequent  appearances  indicate  that  here  the  waves  of  ocean 
once  rolled,  and  here  the  monsters  of  the  deep  sported  amidst 
the  foaming  brine.  Wherever  a  slight  rain  causes  a  rivulet 
to  flow  an  hour  along  a  descending  plane  in  the  road,  the  de- 
parting stream  leaves  behind  it,  upon  the  black  mould,  a  slight 
deposit  of  bright  white  beach  sand.  Here  and  there  even 
among  the  hills  near  the  mountains  are  found  numerous  sea 
shells  completely  petrified,  among  them  oyster  shells  of  a 
species  which  might  perhaps  be  designated  as  the  curvi  rostra. 
All  the  sides  of  the  hills  near  the  city  of  Austin,  seem  half 
covered  with  smooth  rounded  pebbles,  exactly  resembling 
such  as  are  found  upon  the  beach  of  the  sea  and  shores  of 
large  rivers.  Their  surfaces  being  apparently  smoothed  and 
rounded  by  attrition,  produced  by  the  action  of  the  waves.  A 
very  large  part  of  the  mass  of  the  stony  hills  of  pine  and 
stunted  oaks  below  Bastrop,  are  evidently  composed  of  the 
same  kind  of  pebbles. 

The  embedding  of  large  animal  remains  deep  in  the  earth 
near  the  latter  place,  may  still  further  sustain  the  same  con- 
clusion. Such  facts  can  scarce  be  accounted  for,  but  upon 
the  supposition,  that  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  once  laved  the 
feet  of  the  eastern  spurs  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

If  then  the  superficial  portions  of  the  level  and  undulating 
regions  of  this  republic,  are  composed  of  deposits,  either  from 
the  ocean,  or  like  deposits  from  the  waters  descending  from 
the  mountains,  and  bringing  with  them  the  decomposed  mate- 
rials of  their  structure,  it  would  seem  that  they  belong  rather 
to  the  tertiary  than  secondary  formations.  Whatever  may  be 
the  opinions  of  men  in  relation  to  these  portions  of  the  coun- 
try, it  seems  well  understood,  that  the  bases  of  the  interior  of 
the  country,  and  the  whole  of  the  mountain  region,  belong  to 
the  secondary  formation. 

In  no  part  of  the  republic  are  found  either  the  rough  and 
unsightly  hills  and  mountains  of  precipitous  granite  rock, 
which  give  character  to  the  broken  surface  of  much  of 


OXIDE  OF  IRON.  173 

England,  and  the  more  mountainous  parts  of  Virginia,  as  well 
as  the  rocky  and  ragged  coast  of  Norway,  and  the  snow-clad 
tops  of  the  Andes.  Compared  with  the  mountains  of  primary 
regions,  our  highest  elevations  are  gentle  hills,  and  their  accli- 
vities but  gradual  ascents.  All  the  rocks  found  in  our  hills 
and  mountains  are  limestone  or  other  secondary  rocks,  all  of 
which  upon  decomposition  mingle  readily  with  earth,  and  form 
a  fine  soft  and  rich  food  for  plants.  The  triturated  remains  of 
primary  rocks,  on  the  contrary,  retain  their  hardness  and  seem 
to  communicate  sterility  by  their  intermixture. 

Hence  fact  and  theory  show,  that  lands  where  granite  and 
other  primitive  rocks  abound  are  generally  poor,  and  compa- 
ratively so  even  in  the  valleys,  while  in  secondary  regions, 
even  on  the  hills,  and  mingled  with  the  stones,  the  soil  is  rich 
and  usually  covered  with  a  verdant  coat  of  herbage,  while  all 
the  arable  land,  whether  high  or  low  is  abundantly  fertile. 
The  same  fertility  and  adaptation  to  agriculture  and  pasturage, 
equally  applies  to  tertiary  as  to  secondary  regions.  In  view 
of  such  facts,  in  connection  with  the  deep  mass  of  fat  soil 
which  everywhere  abounds  in  Texas,  the  intelligent  observer 
will  be  at  no  loss  to  account  for  the  peculiar  fruitful-ness  and 
exuberance  of  most  of  this  highly  favored  land. 

In  various  sections  of  the  undulating  country,  the  most  casual 
observer  cannot  fail  to  discover,  that  even  in  that  region  the 
mineralogist  would  find  abundant  subjects  of  interest  and  in- 
vestigation. All  the  sandy  elevations  for  some  miles  along 
the  road  leading  from  San  Felipe  to  Austin,  seemed  to  consist 
in  a  considerable  degree  of  oxide  of  iron  and  small  grains  or 
nodules  of  iron  ore.  Among  the  more  elevated  lands  along 
the  Colorado,  south  of  Bastrop,  the  appearances  of  iron  in 
rocks  and  in  oxide  are  frequent  and  striking.  Little  doubt  can 
be  entertained  that  in  that  region  iron  will  eventually  be  made 
with  profit. 

Here,  as  in  most  other  parts  of  the  world,  the  Dispenser  of 
blessings  has  exhibited  His  wisdom  and  beneficence,  by  a 

15* 


174  COAL    ABUNDANT. 

liberal  and  wide-spread  distribution  of  this  most  valuable  of 
metals.  Except  in  the  level  region  along  the  coast,  perhaps 
nearly  every  county  in  Texas  possesses  more  or  less  of  iron 
ore.  In  Gonzales  and  some  other  counties  it  is  abundant,  of 
excellent  quality,  and  easy  of  access.  A  gentleman  skilled  in 
the  manufacture  of  this  metal,  lately  visited  the  localities  in 
Gonzales  county,  and  expressed  much  delight  in  relation  to 
the  facilities  for  working  the  ore.  It  is  expected  that  he  will 
goon  erect  extended  works  for  the  purpose. 

In  another  mineral,  equally  important  to  almost  every  indi- 
vidual and  desirable  for  numerous  uses,  this  country  is  equally 
favored.  Mineral  coal  of  excellent  quality  and  inexhaustible 
quantities,  is  found  in  many  places  along  the  Trinity  and  Co- 
lorado rivers.  From  a  comparison  of  the  local  positions  of 
these  mines,  and  the  direction  of  their  beds,  they  may  prob- 
ably be  found  to  be  parts  of  the  same  great  mine  extending 
quite  through  the  republic,  and  offering  their  rich  stores  of 
fuel  to  the  husbandman,  the  artist,  the  manufacturer  and  mer- 
chant, and  to  produce  steam  for  every  purpose  to  which  that 
powerful  agent  is  applied.  Especially  will  this  article  be  de- 
sirable in  the  making  and  working  of  iron.  Is  it  accident,  or 
is  it  the  kind  dispensation  of  Providence,  that  furnishes  those 
two  most  essential  of  minerals  in  abundance,  and  places  them 
within  the  reach  of  almost  the  whole  human  race  ?  Among 
the  mountains  and  highlands  on  the  Colorado  above  Austin,  it 
is  believed  that  coal  is  abundant.  If  so,  it  can  be  easily  and 
cheaply  floated  to  Austin  and  its  vicinity  in  flat  boats  or  keels. 
Most  of  this  coal  is  said  to  be  bituminous,  and  to  be  of  various 
qualities,  some  resembling  the  Pittsburgh  variety,  and  others 
very  like  that  usually  brought  from  Liverpool.  That  this  is 
bituminous,  or  that  large  bodies  of  such  coal  exists  on  or  near 
the  rivers  of  Texas,  seems  to  be  implied  from  the  fact  that 
large  quantities  of  bitumen  or  mineral  tar,  not  known  to  be 
produced  from  any  thing  but  coal,  are  frequently  found  floating 
on  the  Gulf  near  to  or  on  the  coast.  If  mineral  coal  of  the 


LEAD,    COPPER    AND    SILVER.  175 

bituminous  kind,  be  not  in  the  country,  the  existence  of  this 
bitumen  can  scarcely  be  explained.  But  this  difficulty  disap- 
pears upon  discovering  large  mines  of  coal,  because  bitumen 
petroleum  or  coal  tar,  is  seen  frequently  floating  upon  the  sur- 
face of  all  the  streams  flowing  from  the  coal  region  in  Western 
Pennsylvania. 

A  mining  company  has  been  lately  incorporated  by  Congress 
for  working  the  coal  mines  on  the  Trinity  river.  The  impor- 
tance of  this  procedure  will  be  appreciated  by  every  citizen? 
near  the  coast,  and  especially  the  citizens  of  Galveston. 

Lead  ore  equal  in  quality  to  that  of  Galena,  has  been  lately 
discovered.  Its  localities  and  probable  amount  have  not  been 
published.  That  some  parts  of  the  hilly  country  abound  with 
it,  seems  the  more  probable  from  the  fact  that  the  waters  issu- 
ing from  some  hills  of  evidently  mineral  formation,  have  been 
found  to  be  very  injurious  and  dangerous  to  those  who  tasted 
them.  The  oxide  of  few  minerals  is  more  poisonous  than  that 
of  lead.  Travellers  and  others  will  do  well  to  be  cautious 
how  they  indulge  their  appetites  to  allay  even  strong  thirst, 
when  they  know  the  water  to  be  tinctured  by  unknown  mine- 
rals. 

Copper,  nearly  pure,  has  also  been  discovered  near  the 
head  waters  of  the  Brazos.  The  mine  has  not  been  explored, 
much  less  has  the  region  been  examined  in  relation  to  the 
probable  success  with  which  it  might  be  sought. 

It  is  well  known  that  under  the  government  of  Spain,  silver 
mines  were  wrought  near  the  San  Saba,  a  branch  of  the  Colo- 
rado, in  the  then  province  of  Texas.  The  miners  were  how- 
ever cut  off  and  murdered  by  the  Indians,  and  the  works 
ceased.  Since  that  time  the  Mexican  Revolution  and  the 
Texian  war  of  Independence  have  fully  occupied  public  atten- 
tion, and  the  place  of  these  mines  is  now  not  probably  known 
in  the  whole  republic.  Much  confidence  is  expressed  by 
many,  that  in  that  region  silver  is  abundant.  On  what  evi 
deuce  that  opinion  is  founded  is  not  understood.  That  all  the 


176  GOLD    AND    MARBLE. 

mountainous  region  is  rich  in  mineral  wealth  admits  of  no 
dispute. 

Near  the  head  waters  of  the  San  Saba,  and  extending  some 
distance  in  different  directions,  is  a  range  of  country,  abound- 
ing in  siliceous  or  quartz  pebbles.  Probably  the  land  is  more 
or  less  hilly  and  uneven.  In  such  a  region  the  water  is  pure 
and  runs  with  a  rapid  current  over  a  pebbly  bottom.  This  is 
by  some  believed  to  be  a  gold  region.  Specimens  of  pure 
gold  found  among  the  sand  in  this  part  of  the  country  have 
been  shewn,  and  some  people  are  anxious  to  attempt  improv- 
ing their  fortunes  by  seeking  for  this  precious  metal  among 
the  pebbles  and  sand.  So  slight  is  our  information,  that  we 
venture  not  an  opinion  in  relation  to  the  prospect  of  success 
in  such  an  enterprise.  We  think  however  that  by  a  judicious 
application  of  the  plough,  hoe,  &c.,  more  gold  may  be  dug 
among  the  prairies  and  bottoms,  than  will  be  gathered  from 
the  distant  hills  and  sands  of  the  forest. 

Indeed  we  can  at  present  scarcely  wish  success  to  the 
exertions  of  any  who  may  seek  wealth  from  mines  of  the  pre- 
cious metals.  So  certain  and  uniform  are  the  rewards  of 
industry  in  all  kinds  of  agriculture,  and  so  important  to  the 
country  are  the  products  of  husbandry,  that  whatever  takes 
one  man  from  the  plantation  seems  to  weaken  the  right  arm 
of  the  nation,  and  lessen  the  amount  of  its  available  strength. 

In  parts  of  the  undulating  country,  especially  near  the  falls 
of  the  Trinity,  Brazos  and  Colorado,  limestone  of  a  very  pure 
and  compact  character  is  found  in  large  quantities.  The  lime 
obtained  from  burning  this  stone,  is  said  to  be  equal  in  strength 
and  delicate  whiteness  to  the  very  best  used  in  the  United 
States.  Some  specimens  of  the  limestone  taken  from  the 
neighborhood  of  the  falls  of  the  Colorado,  were  shewn  to  the 
writer,  and  to  several  scientific  gentlemen,  the  last  winter  at 
Austin.  The  fracture  exhibited  a  very  beautiful  variegation 
of  color,  arranged  in  waving  lines,  so  as  to  wear  rather  the 
appearance  of  an  artificial  painting  than  a  natural  production. 


CURIOUS    MASS    OF    METAL.  177 

In  solidity,  closeness  of  grain,  and  fineness  of  texture,  judged 
of  however  only  by  inspecting  the  rough  specimen,  it  appeared 
to  be  equal  to  most  varieties  of  choice  marble.  It  was  the 
general  opinion  that  it  was  capable  of  a  very  fine  polish,  and 
that  for  all  purposes  for  which  such  kinds  of  marble  are  de- 
sirable, it  would  be  both  useful  and  elegant.  The  same  kind 
of  rock  is  believed  to  be  abundant  in  the  neighborhood. 

Farther  north,  among  the  more  elevated  hills  and  moun- 
tains, inexhaustible  quantities  of  limestone  are  found  in  num- 
berless places.  The  qualities  of  this  mineral  thus  profusely 
distributed,  are  probably  various  but  have  not  been  investi- 
gated. It  is  no  improbable  conjecture,  that  among  these  hills 
may  be  found  also  the  water  limestone  and  gypsum  (plaster  of 
paris),  as  they  are  frequently  found  in  near  juxtaposition  with 
large  deposits  of  common  limestone. 

A  large  isolated  mass  of  white  metal,  slightly  oxidated,  but 
bright  and  shining,  has  been  described  as  lying  near  the  head 
waters  of  the  Brazos.  It  is  said  to  be  malleable,  and  some 
persons  have  supposed  it  to  be  platinum.  By  those  who 
tried  specimens  of  it,  it  was  declared  to  be  pure  native  iron. 
The  mass  is  large,  being  estimated  to  weigh  several  tons. 
What  it  is,  yet  remains  somewhat  doubtful.  Whatever  may 
be  found  to  be  its  name,  it  cannot  be  denied  to  be  a  great 
curiosity,  well  deserving  the  attention  of  chemists  and  mine- 
ralogists. Without  pretending  to  do  more  than  suggest  a 
conjecture,  we  may  perhaps  be  allowed  to  ask,  may  not  this 
singular  metallic  phenomenon  be  massive  nickel  ? 

Of  this  metal  we  find  the  following  description  in  the  Ame- 
rican Encyclopaedia.  "  Its  color  is  between  that  of  silver  and 
tin  ;  and  when  polished  its  lustre  is  equal  to  that  of  platinum. 
It  is  malleable,  and  can  be  forged  into  bars  when  hot,  and 
hammered  into  plates  when  cold.  It  is  capable  of  being 
drawn  into  very  fine  wire.  It  is  less  fusible  than  iron.  It  is 
attractable  by  the  magnet  nearly  in  the  same  degree  as  iron, 
and  becomes  itself  a  magnet  by  touching,  hammering,  &c. 


178  SALT,    COPPERAS    AND    ALUM. 

As  nickel  does  not  rust,  it  has  a  very  great  superiority  over 
steel  in  the  construction  of  a  compass-"  This  description 
seems  exactly  to  apply  in  every  respect  to  the  metal  above 
named,  and  in  no  particular  is  any  thing  found  to  show  that 
the  mass  of  bright  metal  on  the  Brazos  and  the  nickel  of  the 
books  are  not  identical. 

Several  specimens  of  petrified  wood  are  shewn  by  indivi- 
duals, which  are  curious  and  interesting.  Some  of  these  are 
carbonate  of  lime,  and  others  appear  to  be  composed  almost 
exclusively  of  silex  (flint).  Among  the  prairies  of  the  rolling 
or  undulating  region,  the  latter  variety  frequently  occurs,  espe- 
cially near  the  Brazos.  Several  of  these  were  evidently  live 
oak,  the  characteristics  of  that  tree  being  yet  distinctly  visible. 
By  percussion  upon  steel  they  yield  abundant  sparks,  and  may 
be  advantageously  used  for  procuring  fire  by  surveyers  or 
others,  who  may  not  be  provided  with  matches.  Will  not 
such  facts  fully  prove,  if  proof  were  wanting,  that  silex  may- 
exist  in  solution  in  water,  and  hence  be  deposited  either  by 
uniting  with  decaying  wood  and  other  substances,  or  in 
masses  by  itself? 

Salt^  as  existing  in  streams,  lakes,  and  on  the  island  of 
Padre,  has  been  already  mentioned.  So  diffused  and  so 
abundant  is  this  indispensable  mineral,  that  in  many  parts  of 
the  country,  besides  the  sea  coast,  cattle  are  entirely  indiffer- 
ent to  it  when  offered  by  their  owners.  Though  no  large 
masses  of  pure  crystallized  salt  have  been  discovered,  it  is 
found  in  springs,  creeks  and  lakes  ;  crystallized  by  solar 
evaporation  in  the  latter,  and  in  an  extended  range  along  the 
coast  of  Padre  island  above  mentioned.  In  the  latter  place  it 
is  accessible  by  water,  and  may  be  thus  transported  cheaply 
to  all  parts  of  the  country. 

Many  other  minerals,  such  as  copperas,  alum  and  the  like, 
have  been  discovered,  but  not,  it  is  believed,  in  such  quantities 
as  to  awaken  much  public  attention. 

imperfect  as  this  sketch  necessarily  is,  it  shows  that  few 


SULPHUR    SPRINGS.     '  179 

countries  of  equal   extent   are   more  favored  in  variety  and 
abundance  of  mineral  treasures. 

Sulphur  and  various  other  mineral  springs  are  found  in  all 
the  upper  regions  of  the  country.  One  sulphur  spring  rises 
near  the  city  of  Austin,  which  it  is  thought  will  soon  be  re- 
garded as  an  object  of  importance  for  health  and  luxury.  Of 
the  number,  qualities  and  flavor  of  these  waters,  however,  our 
information  does  not  enable  us  to  speak  with  accuracy,  and 
hence  we  pass  them  by. 


180  ANIMALS    OF    TEXAS. 


ZOOLOGY. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


The  bison,  improperly  called  the  buffalo. — Deer. — Wild  goats. — Peccary, 
or  Mexican  hog.  —  Wild  hogs.  —  Bears.  —  Racoons. —  Fox  and  grey 
squirrels. — Jaguars. — Leopards. — Wolves. — Foxes,  etc. 

THIS  department  of  our  work  is  copious  in  materials,  and 
needs  only  patient  investigation  and  faithful  description  to 
render  the  field  at  once  interesting  and  useful.  Here  as  in 
other  things  the  circle  of  our  information  is  limited,  and  even 
within  it  there  is  reason  to  fear  that  the  reader  will  find  our 
delineations  somewhat  imperfect.  Without  books  of  refer- 
ence, the  aid  of  men  skilled  in  this  branch  of  science,  and 
even  without  catalogues  of  the  animals  of  the  country,  it 
would  be  singular  if  we  should  not  pass  over  some  things,  and 
perhaps  err  in  others.  All  that  that  we  can  promise  here  is, 
to  endeavor  to  make  our  account  as  full  and  useful  as  the 
means  within  our  reach  will  admit. 

Much  the  largest  portion  of  the  facts  here  stated  are  the 
results  of  our  own  observation,  or  the  information  of  persons 
of  respectability  and  intelligence,  whose  statements  embraced 
only  what  they  had  themselves  witnessed.  For  the  sake  of 
order  and  perspicuity  the  animals  of  Texas  are  classed  under 
several  heads. 


THE    BISON.  181 

QUADRUPEDS.  Of  the  domestic  animals  of  this  class  it  is 
not  necessary  here  to  speak,  as  they  have  received  sufficient 
notice  in  the  article  upon  agriculture.  As  the  largest,  and 
perhaps  the  most  valuable  of  all  wild  animals  of  the  country, 
the  bison,  commonly,  but  improperly  called  the  buffalo,  natur- 
ally first  claims  our  attention.  This  animal  has  with  much 
propriety  been  styled  by  naturalists  bos  Americanus,  the  Ame- 
rican ox.  With  the  exception  of  his  long  woolly  hair,  droop- 
ing horns,  and  peculiar  hump  or  projection  upon  the  shoulders, 
he  seems  to  differ  in  no  essential  particular  from  the  domestic 
ox.  They  are  by  some  declared  to  cross,  without  difficulty, 
with  the  common  cow,  and  that  the  young  are  not  like  mules 
incapable  of  farther  increase. 

The  beef  of  these  animals,  though  by  some  regarded  as 
coarse,  when  fat  is  tender  and  well  flavored.  When  salted 
and  boiled  it  is  regarded  as  very  fine  tasting,  much  like  beef's 
tongue.  The  hump  is  said  to  be  specially  fine,  and  to  taste 
like  marrow.  A  particular  description  of  the  form,  size  and 
habits  of  this  animal  is  deemed  unnecessary,  as  his  natural 
history  is  detailed,  not  only  in  works  of  science,  but  in  peri- 
odicals and  school  books. 

Large  herds  of  these  wild  oxen  migrate  annually  from  the 
mountains  and  plains  of  the  north  and  west  of  Texas,  to  the 
prairies  along  the  Colorado  and  other  rivers  of  interior  Texas, 
especially  where  the  musquit  grass  is  found.  Here  is,  or 
rather  was,  their  winter  pasture,  and  here,  in  former  years,  the 
Camanche  Indians  followed  them  to  feed  upon  their  flesh,  and 
dress  their  skins  for  coverings  to  their  tents,  clothes  for  their 
persons,  and  for  articles  of  trade  with  the  whites.  To  these 
Indians,  it  is  believed  these  animals  are  the  sources  of  almost 
their  entire  subsistence.  Without  them,  these  wandering 
tribes,  with  no  homes,  grain,  cattle  or  property,  would  scarce 
be  able  to  procure  food  or  clothing.  Deer  and  other  small 
animals  would  furnish  but  small  and  precarious  supplies,  and 
the  times  of  scarcity  would  soon  require  them  to  eat  up  the 

16 


182  DKER. 

last  of  their  few  horses.  Such  a  state  of  things  would  to  a 
Camanche,  the  Arab  of  the  prairies,  be  not  merely  fearful  but 
appalling. 

Sensible  of  these  facts,  General  Burleson,  early  in  the 
winter  of  1839 — 40,  made  an  incursion  into  the  country  of 
these  savages,  drove  them  from  their  hunting  grounds,  and 
then  turned  vast  numbers  of  the  bisons  from  that  region  to  the 
vicinity  of  Austin.  Between  twenty  and  thirty  thousand  of 
these  were  believed  to  feed  upon  the  prairies  near  Brushy 
creek,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Brazos.  Owing  probably 
to  this  circumstance,  several  Camanche  chiefs  soon  after  came 
to  the  city  of  Bexar,  gave  themselves  up  to  the  whites  asking 
for  peace.  Numerous  however  as  they  seem,  it  is  probable 
that  in  a  few  years  scarce  a  solitary  wanderer  from  the  herd 
will  be  to  be  found  in  Texas.  Before  the  white  man's  rifle 
they  seem  to  fly  with  instinctive  dread,  or  melt  away  like  the 
snows  of  spring  and  disappear. 

DEER.  But  one  species  of  this  beautiful  tenant  of  the 
prairies,  seems  to  be  found  in  Texas.  Though  it  might  na- 
turally be  expected  that  the  elk,  with  his  lofty  head  and  proud 
horns,  would  find  in  these  regions  a  home  suited  to  his  taste, 
from  no  one  could  any  knowledge  of  his  being  in  this  country- 
be  learned.  Of  the  black-tailed  or  long-eared  deer,  it  is  only 
said  they  are  found  about  the  rocky  mountains.  Whether  they 
ever  visit  these  plains  is  at  least  doubtful.  The  common  deer, 
which  to  an  American  is  too  well  known  to  need  description, 
is  found  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  and  in  numbers  fitted  to 
astonish  the  visiter  from  other  countries.  His  favorite  haunt 
seems  to  be  on  the  broad  prairies,  where  the  view  in  every 
direction  is  unobstructed,  and  no  enemy  can  approach  unseen. 

The  level  region,  extending  from  the  coast  some  thirty  or 
forty  miles  into  the  interior,  seems  to  be  the  part  of  the  coun- 
try to  which  the  deer  are  most  partial.  Though  plenty  every- 
where, here  they  are  seen  in  more  frequent  and  numerous 
companies.  Their  sense  of  vision  from  some  circumstances 


WILD    GOATS.  183 

would  seem  to  be  limited  to  objects  at  no  considerable  dis- 
tance, though  the  correctness  of  the  data  on  which  this  opinion 
rests  is  sometimes  doubted.  Their  power  of  hearing  and 
smelling  is  certainly  acute,  and  often  preserves  them  from 
falling  victims  to  the  rifle  of  the  huntsman. 

It  would  in  most  instances  be  in  vain  to  attempt  to  approach 
a  sleeping  buck,  while  the  wind  blew  from  the  hunter  towards 
his  game.  The  slightest  crepitation  of  dry  grass  breaking 
beneath  the  foot,  or  the  faintest  odor  of  human  breath  or  of 
powder,  is  sufficient  to  arouse  the  sleeper  from  his  lair,  and 
send  him  bounding  over  the  prairie  with  a  speed  which  bids 
defiance  to  pursuit.  Though  they  are  beset  by  many  enemies, 
and  when  quite  young  are  destroyed  in  immense  numbers  by 
wolves,  and  though  they  are  often  made  to  furnish  the  tables 
of  the  settlers  with  their  flesh,  their  numbers  do  not  seem  to 
be  sensibly  diminished.  In  the  vicinity  of  dense  settlements, 
and  immediately  around  the  towns,  they  are  less  frequent,  but 
elsewhere  they  are  seen  in  little  clusters  scattered  over  all  the 
prairies. 

WILD  GOATS.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains  are  at 
times  seen  large  flocks  of  a  small  but  exceedingly  wild  and 
fleet  animal,  supposed  to  be  goats.  By  some  they  are  thought 
to  be  antelopes.  They  differ  however  from  the  latter  animal 
in  the  form  of  their  horns  which  are  angular  and  recurvated. 
They  are  supposed  to  have  their  home  in  the  mountains,  from 
which  however  they  descend  in  winter  and  feed  for  the  time 
upon  the  more  plentiful  and  nutritious  herbage  of  the  prairies. 
From  description  they  would  appear  to  be  less  than  the  ordi- 
nary goat,  more  slender  and  elegant  in  their  frame,  and  far 
more  fleet  in  escaping  from  danger. 

Their  flesh  is  said  to  be  fine  and  well  flavored,  but  that  it 
is  difficult  to  approach  »vithin  shooting  distance  of  the  flocks, 
in  which  they  on  the  plains  are  always  found.  It  is  asserted 
also  that  in  the  mountains  the  real  wild  sheep  are  sometimes 
seen ;  but  of  their  peculiar  appearance  and  character  no  satis- 


184  WILD    SHEEP,    HORSES,    ETC. 

factory  information  could  be  obtained.  That  such  animals 
inhabit  the  higher  and  more  remote  portions  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  is  established  upon  the  testimony  of  competent 
witnesses ;  that  they  may  occasionally  visit  the  mountains  of 
Texas  would  not  seem  at  all  incredible. 

If  these  are  the  real  originals  from  which  domestic  sheep 
have  descended,  the  effects  of  domestication  have  been  won- 
derful indeed.  In  their  native  hills,  their  fine  light  frames  are 
well  adapted  for  climbing  rocks  and  swiftness  of  flight.  Un- 
encumbered by  a  fleece,  and  conscious  of  danger,  the  moun- 
tain sheep  seldom  permits  the  fleetest  of  his  enemies  to 
overtake  him  in  the  chase.  The  domestic  sheep  on  the  con- 
trary, laden  with  his  heavy  garments,  and  unused  to  danger, 
seems  unfitted  for  either  resistance  or  flight,  and  when  pur- 
sued by  wolves,  seldom  flees  many  yards  before  he  stops  as 
if  he  was  already  beyond  the  reach  of  danger. 

It  has  already  been  shown  that  wild  horses,  or  as  they  are 
called  by  the  Mexicans,  mustangs,  exist  in  considerable  num- 
bers among  the  prairies.  They  are  descendants  from  Euro* 
pean  sires,  but  have  become  fully  established  as  tenants  of 
the  prairies,  from  which  they  will  not  be  driven  till  the  busy 
hand  of  the  husbandman,  encroaching  upon  every  side,  shall 
render  his  possessions  too  limited;  when  they  will  emigrate 
still  farther,  or  submit  to  masters  and  become  slaves.  The 
latter  has  been  the  lot  of  thousands,  and  many  more  are  annu- 
ally subjected  to  the  same  ignoble  state.  Ignoble,  indeed, 
when  they  are  regarded  as  far  beneath  their  fellows  who  never 
tasted  freedom,  and  are  doomed  to  greater  drudgery  with  lets 
food  and  attention. 

In  company  with  the  herds  of  wild  horses,  are  sometimes 
found  wild  jacks,  jennies  and  mules,  originating,  like  the 
horses,  from  Spanish  stocks  ;  they  still  accompany  the  horse 
as  did  their  sires  in  a  domestic  state. 

PECCARY,  OR  MEXICAN  HOG.  Persons  acquainted  with  this 
animal  state  that  it  differs  from  a  hog  in  but  rery  few  particu- 


PECCARY,    OR    MEXICAN     HOG.  185 

lars.  One  of  these  is  the  gland  on  his  back  resembling  a 
navel,  mentioned  below.  Another  is  that  his  feet  are  destitute 
of  the  two  hinder  toes  or  small  hoofs,  sometimes  called  dew 
claws.  The  following  description  of  him  extracted  from  the 
Encyclopaedia  Americana,  is  nearly  correct : 

"  Peccary  (dicotyles.)  The  peccaries  bear  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  the  hog,  but  are  sufficiently  dissimilar  to  justify  their 
separation  as  a  distinct  genus.  The  most  striking  difference 
between  them  and  every  other  species  of  quadruped,  is  the 
existence  of  a  large  gland  under  the  skin  on  the  middle  of  the 
loins.  This  gland  secretes  a  fluid  of  a  very  offensive  smell. 
In  their  habits  however  they  are  closely  allied  to  the  hog : 
their  gait  is  the  same ;  they  root  up  the  earth  in  a  similar 
manner,  and  express  their  feelings  by  the  same  disagreeable 
grunt.  They  are  equally  susceptible  of  domestication;  but 
from  the  fetid  smell  emitted  by  the  gland  on  their  back,  they 
never  have  been  tamed  to  any  extent.  Their  flesh  is  also 
much  inferior  to  pork  in  flavor.  They  are  peculiar  to  South 
America,  living  in  the  extensive  forests  of  that  country,  iu 
hollows  of  trees  or  in  burrows  made  by  other  animals." 

The  above  extract  is  erroneous  in  representing  these  ani- 
mals as  peculiar  to  South  America.  They  are  frequently- 
found  in  the  bottoms  of  all  the  rivers  of  Texas,  where  the 
timber  is  large  and  the  place  densely  wooded.  There  are> 
other  reasons,  than  the  offensive  smell  of  these  creatures,  for 
their  not  being  often  domesticated.  A  gentleman,  residing  a 
few  miles  from  Austin,  found  some  young  peccaries  near  his, 
residence,  and  reared  two  of  them  to  maturity.  They 
were  as  tame  and  fond  of  being  near  the  house  as  his  swine ; 
but  exhibited  no  dispositions  to  intimacy  with  them.  While  yet 
young  they  would  frequently  destroy  whole  litters  of  pigs,  and 
when  old  and  strong  enough  for  the  contest,  frequently  killed 
large  hogs.  Their  destructive  propensities  finally  compelled 
their  master  to  kill  them. 

They  are  active  and  strong,  run  with  considerable 
16* 


186  BLAR3,    RACCOONS,    ETC. 

and  are  armed  with  tusks  of  great  length,  which  they  use  in 
fighting  with  powerful  effect.  Though  they  are  less  in  size 
than  the  common  hog,  it  is  believed  that  no  dog  can  conquer 
one  of  them.  Should  one  be  wounded  and  induced  to  squeal 
like  a  wounded  hog,  as  many  of  the  peccaries  as  are  within 
hearing  rush  to  his  aid ;  and  it  behooves  man  or  beast  speedily 
to  escape  by  flight  or  climbing  a  tree.  With  their  long  tusks 
they  inflict  severe  and  often  deadly  wounds.  It  is  asserted 
that  no  beast  of  prey  ventures  to  attack  a  full  grown  peccary. 

When  a  hunter  approaches  their  burrow,  one  of  the  inmates 
is  found  standing  at  the  entrance  guarding  it  from  aggression. 
From  this  position  he  cannot  be  driven  by  fright  or  even 
•wounds.  When  he  is  shot  down  another  immediately  supplies 
his  place,  and  with  equal  courage  maintains  his  post.  When 
he  falls  another  comes,  and  so  they  continue  to  do  till  all  ex- 
cept the  very  young  ones,  are  dead.  Feeding  like  swine 
mostly  upon  grass,  nuts  and  fruits,  they  are  not  usually  apt  to 
attack  other  animals,  except  when  near  their  burrows  or  in 
defence  of  themselves.  When  they  attack  they  are  dangerous 
foes. 

Wild  hogs,  descendants  of  the  domestic  swine,  are  said  to 
be  found  occasionally  in  the  woods.  They  are  not  very 
numerous,  and  from  the  depredations  of  wolves  and  other 
animals  of  prey  upon  their  young,  will  not  probably  become 
so. 

BEARS,  RACCOONS,  ETC.  The  American  black  bear  is  the 
only  species  of  this  animal  known  to  be  found  in  Texas. 
Great  numbers  of  them  are  said  to  have  ranged,  not  barely  the 
•woodlands  but  prairies  of  this  country,  before  they  became 
thinned  by  the  settlers.  They  are  still  numerous  and  may 
not  unfrequently  be  met  with  far  from  the  forest,  either  feed- 
ing upon  the  prairie  or  passing  from  one  forest  to  another. 
One  very  large  one,' about  a  year  since,  was  discovered  by 
several  horsemen  upon  a  large  prairie.  They  pursued  her 
though  none  of  them  had  guns.  At  length  she  stopped  and 


SQUIRRELS.  1ST 

exhibited  a  disposition  to  assail  her  pursuers,  when  one  of 
them  shot  her  through  the  head  with  his  pocket  pistol. 

They,  at  the  approach  of  winter,  seek  for  a  convenient  and 
warm  hollow  in  a  tree,  where  they  retire  in  cold  weather,  but 
from  which  they  make  frequent  excursions  in  pleasant  days 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  They  seldom  if  ever  can  be  said 
to  hybernate.  Raccoons  are  also  very  numerous,  and  some- 
times troublesome  in  devouring  the  unripe  corn  of  the  planter.. 
Like  the  bear  in  habits  and  character,  except  its  diminutive 
size,  it  usually  inhabits  the  same  regions  and  feeds  upon  the- 
same  kinds  of  food.  Both  are  too  well  known  to  need  a  par- 
ticular  description. 

Fox  and  grey  squirrels  are  sometimes  seen  in  great  num- 
bers among  the  timbered  lands  of  Texas.  At  present  it  is. 
believed  that  very  few  can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  country. 
This  may  in  part  be  owing  to  their  migratory  habits,  and  in? 
part  toother  causes.  In  February  1839  a  storm  of  rain  oc- 
curred, when  the  weather  was  so  cold  that  the  falling  drops 
froze  and  adhered  to  whatever  they  touched.  The  trees  were 
covered  with  a  thick  coat  of  ice,  so  heavy  as  to  break  off  a 
large  proportion  of  the  branches  of  most  of  the  forest  trees,, 
and  the  ground  was  covered  for  two  or  three  days  with  snow 
and  ice.  In  this  season  very  many  squirrels  and  other  wild 
animals  are  believed  to  have  perished. 

Animals  of  the  cat  family  are  numerous,  and  consist  of 
several  varieties.  Some  of  them  are  large,  fierce  and  danger- 
ous, but  happily  are  but  seldom  seen.  Those  of  the  smaller 
kinds  are  more  numerous,  but  from  their  size  and  want  of 
strength,  incapable  of  much  serious  mischief.  Of  the  varie- 
ties of  this  family  in  America,  the  Jaguar  or  American  Tiger 
is  clearly  the  largest  and  most  powerful.  Some  few  of  these 
have  been  seen  in  Texas,  and  hence  are  named  among  its 
animals.  The  following  description  given  in  the  Encyclo- 
paedia Americana  will  furnish  a  just  view  of  this  prince  of 
American  cats : 


188  JAGUAR,    OK    AMERICAN    TIGER. 

"  Jaguar,  felis  onca.  The  jaguar  holds  the  same  rank 
among  the  animals  of  the  new  continent  as  the  tiger  among 
those  of  the  old.  On  the  whole  upper  parts  of  its  body,  it  is 
of  a  bright  yellowish  fawn  color,  which  passes  on  the  throat, 
belly  and  inside  of  the  legs  into  a  pure  white.  On  this  ground 
the  head,  limbs  and  under  surface  are  covered  with  full  black 
spots  of  various  sizes,  and  the  rest  of  the  body  with  annular 
patches,  either  with  a  black  point  in  the  centre,  or  formed  of 
small  black  spots  arranged  in  a  circular  form.  This  animal 
is  found  in  the  swampy  forests  of  South  America,  especially 
in  the  neighborhoods  of  large  rivers,  which  he  swims  with 
great  ease. 

Of  his  power  of  swimming,  as  well  as  of  his  extraordi- 
nary strength,  the  following  circumstance  related  by  D'Azara 
•will  give  some  idea.  A  jaguar,  after  having  attacked  and  de- 
stroyed a  horse,  carried  his  victim  to  the  bank  of  a  broad  and 
rapid  river,  about  sixty  paces  distant,  over  which  he  swam 
with  his  prey,  and  then  dragged  it  into  the  adjoining  wood. 

Possessed  of  such  tremendous  powers,  this  animal  is  the 
dread  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  countries  he  infests.  It  is  sel- 
dom however  that  he  attacks  the  human  race,  though  he  will 
not  shun  man  when  he  meets  him.  His  favorite  prey  appears 
to  be  the  larger  quadrupeds,  such  as  oxen,  horses,  sheep  and 
dogs,  which  he  attacks  indiscriminately,  and  in  the  same 
treacherous  manner  as  the  rest  of  his  tribe,  uniformly  sing- 
ling out  the  last  of  a  herd,  as  the  object  of  attack.  When  he 
has  made  choice  of  a  victim,  he  springs  on  its  back,  and  pla- 
cing one  of  his  paws  upon  the  back  of  its  head,  whilst  he 
seizes  its  muzzle  with  the  other,  twists  its  head  round  with  a 
sudden  jerk,  thus  dislocating  its  spine  and  instantly  depriving 
it  of  life." 

A  professional  gentleman  of  the  city  of  Houston,  having 
been  at  Brazoria  on  business,  was  returning  homeward  on 
horseback.  While  riding  leisurely  through  a  piece  of  heavily 
Umbered  land,  his  eye  was  suddenly  directed  to  an  object  by 


LEOPARD.  189 

the  road  side.  Nearly  opposite  to  him  upon  a  low  and  large 
branch  of  a  tree,  or  on  the  gently  inclined  trunk  of  one,  for  on 
this  subject  his  observation  was  not  very  minute,  sat  a  large 
jaguar,  crouching  downward  ,with  his  head  nearly  upon  a 
level  with  his  feet,  apparently  in  the  act  to  spring  upon  him* 
At  the  strong  touch  of  the  spur  the  horse  sprung  forward  with 
a  bound,  and  the  tiger  at  the  same  instant  with  a  powerful 
leap  dashed  towards  him.  The  extended  paw  of  the  beast 
was  seen  passing  through  the  air  but  fell  short  of  its  object^ 
and  the  tiger  alighted  just  behind  the  horse,  which  needed  no 
more  spurring  to  use  his  utmost  speed.  Whether  the  disap- 
pointed savage  made  any  pursuit  does  not  appear.  The 
horseman  rode  at  full  speed  several  miles  and  saw  the  foe  no 
more.  He  however  retained  a  vivid  impression  of  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  beast,  and  lost  some  portion  of  the  confidence 
he  had  before  indulged  in  his  own  heroism.  At  least  he 
seems  no  way  anxious  to  acquire  laurels  by  contending  hand! 
to  hand  with  a  jaguar. 

The  leopard  also  (felis  leopardus)  is  a  native  of  this  region  j: 
though,  like  the  jaguar,  very  few  of  them  have  been  seen  in 
the  country.  This  animal  from  description  differs  in  no  res- 
pect from  animals  of  the  same  name  in  Africa  and  Asia.  Of 
similar  formidable  size  and  power,  he  is  equally  decorated 
with  his  numerous  and  beautifully  disposed  spots  and  color- 
ing. As  the  character  and  peculiarities  of  this  savage,  but 
elegantly  formed  and  marked  creature,  is  well  known  in 
every  country,  we  forbear  a  minute  description  of  it. 

The  Hon.  B.  T.  Archer,  now  secretary  of  war  for  the  re- 
public of  Texas,  assured  the  writer,  that  he  had  seen  the 
skins  of  two  of  these  animals,  both  of  which  must  have 
been  very  large.  The  latter  at  the  time  he  saw  it  had 
just  been  stripped  from  the  yet  warm  carcase  of  the  beast, 
which  lay  before  him.  After  the  skin  had  been  sometime- 
taken  off,  at  the  suggestion  of  a  bystander  the  body  was 
weighed,  and  found  to  be  of  between  three  hundred  and  fifty 


190  PANTHER    AND    OCELOT. 

and  four  hundred  pounds  weight.  In  coloring  and  beauty  of 
its  spots,  that  skin  was  by  far  the  most  elegant  of  any  thing  of 
the  kind  he  had  ever  witnessed.  He  was  anxious  to  purchase 
it,  but  the  owner  declined  parting  with  it  at  any  price.  This 
occurred  on  the  Chocolate  Bayou  in  the  year  1831. 

Panthers,  or,  as  they  are  called  by  naturalists,  pumas,  are 
occasionally  found  in  this  country.  They  seem  however  to 
attract  but  comparatively  little  attention,  and  their  name  seems 
to  excite  no  terror.  So  plentiful  is  wild  game,  and  so  few  are 
the  inducements  to  prey  upon  the  possessions  of  man,  that 
little  is  heard  of  their  depredations.  They  are,  however, 
wherever  found,  a  powerful,  dastardly  and  dangerous  acquain- 
tance. No  instances  have  been  related  to  us  of  their  having 
ever  dared  to  molest  any  of  the  human  family  in  this  country. 
As  the  republic  becomes  filled  with  settlers,  and  the  forests 
disappear  before  the  axe  of  the  white  man,  these  animals  will 
probably  soon  abandon  the  territory.  A  detailed  description 
of  animals  so  well  known  is  deemed  unnecessary. 

Belonging  to  the  same  great  family,  but  much  smaller,  the 
ocelot,  here  usually  called  the  leopard  cat,  is  another  native  of 
Texas.  Like  the  leopard,  clothed  in  a  splendid  garment  of 
many  colors,  its  elegant  exterior  contrasts  strangely  with  its 
cruel  and  blood-thirsty  dispositions.  Though,  from  its  small 
size  and  want  of  strength,  it  preys  only  on  small  animals,  it, 
equally  with  its  larger  fellows,  delights  in  blood  and  the  wan- 
ton destruction  of  its  prey,  even  when  not  excited  to  it  by 
hunger.  Except  in  its  size,  this  beautiful  little  animal  seems 
to  differ  very  little  from  the  leopard,  equally  beautiful,  active, 
ferocious,  and  incapable  of  gratitude,  its  elegance  of  structure 
and  clothing  only  more  strikingly  contrasts  with  its  savage 
propensities.  It  is  now  becoming  scarce,  and  the  skins  are 
in  demand  nearly  as  much  for  their  rareness  as  for  their 
beauty. 

The  wild  cat,  which  is  also  frequent  and  well  known 
in  the  United  States,  is  considerably  numerous  in  Texas. 


WILD    CATS,    WOLVES,    ETC,  191 

Some  of  them  are  large,  and  prove  a  dangerous  species  of 
game  to  dogs,  whom  they  often  beat  off  and  seriously  wound. 
They  are  not  regarded  with  dread  by  man,  but  are  rather  con- 
sidered a  favorite  species  of  game,  the  killing  of  which  ex- 
cites no  compassion. 

Pole  cats  are  sometimes,  though  rarely,  found.  These  are 
the  principal  varieties  of  cats,  and  some  of  these  it  is  hoped 
will  not  long  continue  to  infest  the  country. 

Wolves  of  two  varieties  are  quite  numerous.  The  larger 
kind  vary  in  color  from  a  light  gray  to  a  dull  black.  In  no 
respect  do  they  differ  from  the  same  kind  of  animals  in  more 
northern  regions,  except  it  be  in  their  ferocity.  Here  no 
severe  winters  and  deep  snows  deprive  them  of  the  power  to 
obtain  game  in  every  prairie  and  forest,  and  hence  they  are 
never  impelled  by  severe  famine  to  unite  in  droves  to  attack 
travellers  or  the  houses  of  settlers.  Their  companies  are  sel- 
dom numerous,  and  they  always  keep  at  a  very  respectful  dis- 
tance from  the  place  where  they  hear  the  bark  of  the  watch 
dog.  They  prey  mostly  upon  small  animals,  including  deer, 
sheep,  pigs,  rabbits,  and  the  like,  and  feed  greedily  upon  the 
carcasses  of  horses  and  cattle  that  have  died  from  disease  or 
accident.  The  prairie  wolf  is  a  much  smaller  animal,  almost 
always  of  a  dark  brown  color,  approaching  to  black.  In  all 
their  habits  as  well  as  form,  they  are  very  nearly  similar  to 
the  larger  kind.  Less  dreaded  by  the  settlers,  they  seem  to 
be  less  cautious  of  approaching  the  farm  yard,  but  never  ven- 
ture to  invade  the  domains  guarded  by  the  settler's  dog,  though 
their  varied,  and  to  strangers  fearful  cries,  salute  the  ears  of 
sleepers  in  the  country  at  all  hours  of  the  night.  Where  no 
guardian  of  the  hours  of  rest,  like  the  faithful  dog,  keeps 
them  off,  sometimes  they  venture  near  to  houses  and  even 
towns  in  search  of  food,  as  is  evinced  by  the  following  cir- 
cumstance. 

On  a  cold  morning  in  winter,  while  the  seat  of  government 
was  at  Houston,  a  countryman  drove  in  just  before  day  with 


192  FOXES,    OPOSSUMS,    ETC. 

the  flesh  of  a  beef  he  had  killed  for  market,  and  stopped  his 
Waggon  and  horse  under  a  tree  near  the  market  house.  Suf- 
fering from  the  cold,  he  went  to  the  house  of  an  acquaintance 
to  procure  fire  with  which,  as  was  customary,  to  make  a  fire 
of  logs  in  the  open  air.  While  he  was  absent  for  this  purpose 
the  wolves  came,  robbed  his  waggon  of  the  beef,  and  dragged 
it  away  into  the  forest.  He  procured  assistance,  and  pursued 
the  thieves  by  their  trail,  along  which  they  found  fragments  of 
flesh  at  frequent  intervals,  showing  that  the  rapidity  of  their 
flight  did  not  prevent  the  prowlers  from  eating  as  they  ran. 
The  pursuit  was  however  vain,  and  the  countryman,  with 
plenty  of  customers,  butchered  in  this  instance  with  no  other 
profit  than  the  instruction  that  robbers  are  not  to  be  trusted. 

Foxes  also,  though  but  one  variety  has  been  named,  are 
said  to  be  numerous.  That  they  are  found  here  is  evident, 
but  the  fact  of  their  being  very  numerous  seems  somewhat 
doubtful,  from  the  circumstance  that  they  are  seldom  men- 
tioned, and  equally  so  from  the  rapid  and  unchecked  multipli- 
cation of  domestic  fowls.  But  like  other  animals  of  their 
tribe,  they  are  very  cowardly,  seldom  risking  their  safety  by 
a  near  approach  to  the  dwellings  of  man. 

To  these  must  be  added  opossums,  rabbits  of  two  species, 
field  rats,  supposed  to  be  natives,  moles,  and  a  kind  of  rat  or 
mole  resembling  the  former,  but  burrowing  in  the  earth  like 
the  latter.  Several  other  small  quadrupeds  also  inhabit  the 
forests  and  prairies,  of  whose  names  and  natural  history  we 
have  no  distinct  information. 


ORNITHOLOGY    OF    TEXAS.  193 


BIRDS. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Eagles. — Prairie  hawks. —  Fish  hawks. — Owls. —  Buzzards,  or  rultures. — 
Swans. — Cranes. —  Geese. —  Ducks. —  Turkeys. —  Red  birds. —  Wood- 
peckers.—  Starlings.  —  Prairie  hens. — duails. — Pheasants. — Orioles. — 
Turtle  doves.  —  Larks.  —  Birds  of  Paradise.  — Mocking  birds.  —  Paro* 

quets,  etc. FISHES.— Red  fish. —  Sheepshead. —  Trout.— Perch. — 

Mullet. — Drumfish. — Crabs. — Oysters, — Clams. — Muscles,  etc. 

THE  ornithology  of  Texas  furnishes  an  extended  list  of  the 
feathered  tribe,  though  it  is  doubtful  whether  more  than  one 
or  two  of  them  are  peculiar  to  the  country.  Several  of  them 
are  however  uncommon  in  different  portions  of  the  United 
States,  and  are  subjects  consequently  of  curiosity  to  many 
emigrants  and  visiters  to  this  region. 

As  usual  we  place  first  in  order  the  eagle,  (falco)  tribe,  as 
by  some  strange  taste  they  have  been  regarded  as  the  noblest 
of  the  feathered  race.  It  is  conceded  that  like  many  cele- 
brated heroes,  they  are  treated  by  the  other  tenants  of  the  air 
with  that  deference  which  their  talents  for  destruction  pro- 
duces, which  in  most  cases  is  the  sole  basis  of  their  fame. 
Of  these  birds  the  following  varieties  have  been  distinctly 
noticed. 

The  bald  eagle,  (falco  leucocephalus)  though  the  specimens 
noticed  by  the  writer  appeared  to  be  much  smaller  than  simi- 
lar birds  he  had  been  accustomed  to  see  on  the  banks  of  tt*e 
Ontario  and  Erie,  and  the  Mexican  eagle,  still  smaller.  The 

17 


194  PRAIRIE    AND    FISH    HAWtfS. 

most  curious  to  the  writer  of  all  these,  is  the  prairie  hawk, 
equal  in  size  to  the  largest  hawks  in  the  United  States,  of  a 
light  brown  color  above,  and  a  grey  approaching  to  white  on 
the  breast.  He  seems  to  dwell  exclusively  on  the  prairies, 
over  which  and  near  the  ground  he  floats  with  the  apparent 
ease  and  lightness  of  a  swallow,  sometimes  leisurely  rising 
to  a  gentle  elevation,  and  again  descending  with  a  motion  re- 
sembling the  swell  and  depression  of  a  gentle  wave  of  a  lake. 
While  thus  seeming  to  sail  in  sport  and  joy,  with  eagle  eye 
he  watches  for  the  low  perch  of  a  sparrow  or  lark,  or  for  the 
nestling  place  of  a  field  mouse  or  frog.  If  his  game  be  dis- 
covered, his  whole  demeanor  is  at  once  changed.  Instead  of 
the  easy  and  gentle  movement  before  observed,  he  darts  with 
the  swiftness  and  aim  of  an  arrow,  and  quick  must  be  the 
spring,  and  rapid  the  flight,  that  can  elude  the  grasp  of  his 
talons.  If  the  pounce  be  successful,  he  bears  his  prize  to 
some  convenient  hillock,  or  smooth  plat  of  the  prairie,  and  there 
alighting  soon  devours  it.  If,  however,  his  prey  be  able  to 
avoid  his  clutch,  and  one  or  two  succeeding  attempts,  he 
abandons  the  pursuit,  and  resumes  his  apparently  careless  and 
undulating  swing  along  the  even  surface  of  the  plain. 

All  the  varieties  of  hawks  and  owls  common  in  the  United 
States,  including  the  small  one  known  as  the  sparrow  or 
pigeon  hawk,  are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Along 
the  coast  the  fish  hawk  is  occasionally,  but  not  frequently, 
seen  suspended  over  a  bay  or  the  mouth  of  a  river,  almost 
without  motion,  or  any  change  of  position,  gazing  with  intense 
scrutiny  into  the  water  below.  Should  he  distinguish  clearly 
the  object  of  his  searching  gaze,  with  wings  and  body  so 
arranged  as  in  front  to  resemble  the  edge  of  a  board,  he  de- 
scends with  the  velocity  of  thought,  accompanied  by  a  noise 
produced  by  the  rapid  division  of  the  atmosphere,  which  may 
be  heard  many  yards  into  the  water,  from  which  he  soon 
brings  up,  not  in  his  beak,  but  talons,  his  finny  prize.  Even 
the  trout,  the  most  nimble  and  wary  of  the  tenants  of  the 


MOCKING    BIRDS,    LARKS,    ETC.  195 

stream,  which  can  seldom  be  struck  by  the  fisherman's  spear, 
can  rarely  escape  the  fish  hawk's  plunge. 

Buzzards  or  vultures,  of  two  kinds,  every  where  abound  ; 
crows,  ravens,  blackbirds,  jays,  red  birds,  some  with  tufts 
upon  their  heads,  and  others  of  a  smaller  kind  without  them ; 
starlings,  the  red-winged  and  others  ;  prairie  hens,  nearly  re- 
sembling pheasants  ;  quails,  here  frequently  called  partridges, 
pheasants,  rice  birds,  pigeons,  turtle  doves,  ortalans,  robins, 
snipes,  plovers,  larks,  which,  even  in  winter,  from  the  branches 
of  a  tree,  or  from  some  little  hillock  on  a  prairie,  full  oft  regale 
the  traveller  with  their  brief  but  sweet  notes  ;  blue  birds  and 
mocking  birds,  well  deserving,  by  the  sweetness  of  their 
notes,  and  still  more  by  their  night  song,  the  title  of  the 
American  nightingale,  are  found  in  immense  numbers  ;  various 
kinds  of  woodpeckers,  from  the  large  woodcock  (picus  princi- 
palis)  to  the  little  chickadee,  with  its  head  tufted  with  black  ; 
sparrows,  wrens  and  swallows,  of  every  description,  some  of 
which  even  in  mid  winter  are  seen  sporting  over  the  prairies  ; 
orioles  or  hang  birds,  with  their  bright  plumage,  paroquets 
and  whippoorwill,  give  variety  to  the  list  of  birds  ;  cranes  of 
many  varieties,  such  as  are  called  by  the  popular  names  of 
sand  hill,  whooping,  white,  blue  and  tufted  ;  swans,  pelicans, 
king-fishers,  water  turkeys,  gulls,  etc.,  partaking  more  or  less 
of  the  aquatic  character,  are  numerous  beyond  calculation. 

Wild  geese  are  at  times  in  winter  and  early  spring,  seen 
feeding  upon  the  young  grass  of  the  prairies  in  immense  num- 
bers. Wild  turkeys  are  also  very  numerous,  and  the  traveller 
when  stopping  at  a  solitary  log  house,  far  from  any  appearance 
like  refined  luxury,  may  likely  be  surprised  and  gratified  to 
find  his  meal  to  consist  of  a  delicate  wild  turkey,  or  goose, 
and  well  prepared  venison.  Brant,  a  smaller  variety  of  the 
goose,  ducks  of  many  kinds,  including  canvass  backs,  and 
many  other  water  fowl,  frequent  all  the  shores  and  streams  of 
the  country. 

Several  gentlemen  mentioned   to  the  writer  another  but 


196  BIRD    OF    PARADISE. 

somewhat  rare  bird,  which  they  supposed  to  be  a  variety  of 
the  bird  of  paradise.  It  is  about  the  size  of  a  jay,  but  some- 
what longer,  with  beautiful  proportions;  its  colors  are  ele- 
gantly variegated  with  yellow,  blue  and  •  purple,  of  very 
delicate  character,  and  passing  into  each  other  by  impercep- 
tible and  glossy  shades ;  its  tail  is  long,  and  its  song  exceed- 
ingly fine.  This  description,  however,  is  made  from  seeing 
the  bird  on  its  perch  in  a  wild  state,  and  hence  not  scientific- 
ally accurate.  The  peculiar  long  tail  feathers  of  this  bird, 
apparently  exactly  like  those  of  the  bird  of  paradise,  induced 
the  opinion  that  it  belongs  to  that  species. 

It  is  presumed  that  the  above  enumeration  omits  very  many 
of  the  birds  that  are  found  here,  but  it  is  probably  sufficient 
for  all  the  purposes  of  a  volume  like  this,  which  is  intended 
rather  to  furnish  information  of  practical  utility  to  emigrants, 
than  of  curious  knowledge  to  the  learned. 

FISHES. 

Th«  bays  along  the  coast  and  the  rivers  of  Texas,  are 
well  supplied  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  some  of  which  are 
regarded  as  excellent  and  valuable  for  the  table.  Redfish 
bar,  near  the  centre  of  Galveston  bay,  received  its  name  from 
the  abundance  of  that  kind  of  fish  which  are  found  near  it. 
They  are  very  numerous  in  all  the  bays  and  mouths  of  the 
rivers,  are  fine  flavored  and  delicate,  and  often  weigh  forty  or 
fifty  pounds.  Catfish  of  three  varieties,  are  said  to  be  taken 
in  the  streams  in  great  numbers.  Many  of  them  grow  to  a 
large  size,  the  largest  weighing  from  sixty  to  ninety  pounds. 
The  very  large  are  however  less  delicate  and  less  esteemed. 

The  following  are  the  names  here  applied  to  several  va- 
rieties of  fish  very  commonly  taken,  viz.  buffalo,  sheepshead, 
trout,  a  sea-fish  but  of  the  salmon  species,  pike,  mullet,  perch, 
flounders,  drum-fish,  suckers,  croakers,  and  other  fish  common 
in  the  southern  parts  of  the  United  States.  There  are  two 


OYSTERS,    CLAMS,    ETC.  197 

kinds  of  fish  here  called  gar,  or  bill-fish.  They  grow  to  a 
considerable  size,  and  have  a  long  narrow  mouth,  in  some 
degree  resembling  the  beak  of  a  bird,  which  is  armed  with 
strong  pointed  and  sharp  teeth.  The  larger  of  these  is  called 
the  alligator  gar ;  it  is  armed  with  scales,  and  in  appearance 
is  so  similar  to  the  alligator  as  when  first  seen  to  be  often 
mistaken  for  one.  Both  of  these  are  utterly  worthless  for 
food.  The  only  use  to  which  they  have  been  profitably  put, 
was  to  nail  the  skin  of  one  upon  the  mould  board  of  a  plough 
to  turn  over  the  furrow,  in  which  place  it  will  last  several 
months.  Eels  are  plenty  in  fresh  waters,  and  are  by  some 
relished  as  a  rich  delicacy.  It  is  asserted  also  that  among 
the  head  waters  of  the  San  Antonio,  the  spring  water  trout 
(salmo  fontinalis)  are  common.  These  are  very  rare  west  of 
the  Alleghany  mountains,  and  it  is  believed  have  not  else- 
where been  discovered. 

The  crustaceous  fishes,  such  as  the  crab,  craw-fish,  shrimp, 
and  stingaree,  which  latter  appears  to  be  merely  a  variety  of 
the  horsefoot,  having  like  it  a  hard  pointed  member  of  some 
inches  protruding  from  it.  This  is  by  some  denominated  a 
sting,  and  a  wound  from  it  is  regarded  as  dangerous,  if  not 
fatal.  Shell  fish,  such  as  oysters,  clams,  muscles,  various 
kinds  of  small  sea  snails,  star-fish,  sun-fish,  and  numerous 
small  bivalve  kinds  are  found  along  the  coast. 

In  the  sand  adjacent  to  the  city  of  Galveston,  it  is  asserted 
that  clams  of  large  size  and  excellent  quality  have  been  col- 
lected. The  whole  coast,  wherever  the  mouth  of  a  stream 
forms  a  suitable  soil  for  their  reception,  oysters  are  found  in 
great  abundance.  Indeed  they  are  one  of  the  cheapest  articles 
of  food  sold  in  the  markets  of  the  coast.  It  is  contended  by 
some  that  in  flavor  the  oysters  of  this  region  are  less  highly 
flavored  than  those  of  the  northern  Atlantic  cities,  while 
others  affirm  that  they  are  fully  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  them,, 
NOJI  nobis  *****  co.mponere  lites. 

17* 


198  ALLIGATOR,    OR    AMERICAN    CROCODILE, 


REPTILES. 


CHAPTER   XV. 


Alligators — simple    method    of   destroying    them. —  Land  tortoises. —  Sea 
tortoises — valuable    for    food. —  Rattle  snakes — remedies   to  cure  their 

bite. — Black  snakes  and  bull  snakes,  etc.  not  venomous. INSECTS. 

Large  spider. — Centipede, — Scorpion. —  Musquito. — Red  bug. —  Horse- 
fly.— Ants. — Sand  fly,  etc. 

UNDER  this  general  term  are  included  a  great  variety  of  ani- 
mals of  very  different  habits  and  character.  As  however  this 
is  as  convenient  an  arrangement  as  any  other,  we  shall  en- 
deavor to  notice  as  fully  as  necessary  the  animals  of  this  class 
known  to  exist  in  Texas. 

The  largest  and  most  dreaded  of  all  animals  of  this  class, 
either  in  Texas  or  elsewhere,  is  the  alligator,  or  American 
crocodile.  They  evidently  belong  to  the  Saurian  family,  of 
whose  immense  size  and  power  no  other  evidence  remains 
than  a  few  fossil  skeletons.  And  these,  from  the  situation 
and  state  in  which  they  are  found,  must  have  lived  long 
anterior  to  the  existence  of  the  human  race.  In  almost  every 
river  and  creek  or  bayou,  these  animals  find  a  home  and  a 
place  in  which  to  seek  their  prey.  In  the  water,  a  full  grown 
alligator  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  long,  would  be  a  dangerous 
acquaintance  to  a  swimmer,  whether  man  or  beast.  Here 
they  move  with  ease  and  celerity,  and  few  land  animals  could 


METHOD    OF    DESTROYING    THE    ALLIGATOR*  199 

long  elude  his  pursuit.  Even  fishes  are  believed  to  become 
his  frequent  food,  and  it  is  understood  that  tortoises  and  other 
sluggish  moving  animals  are  his  ordinary  repast.  Out  of  the 
water  he  is  probably  no  less  voracious  and  greedy  of  flesh, 
but  here  his  movements  are  slow,  awkward  and  unwieldy. 
In  a  straight  course,  after  a  short  time,  he  can  move  with 
tolerable  activity,  but  cannot  turn  round  without  making  a 
considerable  circuit,  and  taking  up  some  time.  At  such  times 
they  may  easily  be  destroyed. 

A  gentleman,  while  passing  through  his  plantation,  found 
an  alligator  of  a  large  size,  apparently  passing  from  a  pond 
towards  a  neighboring  stream.  At  the  approach  of  the  man 
he  raised  his  head  and  hissed  loudly  like  a  goose.  With  a 
heavy  hand-spike  the  gentleman  struck  him  just  where  the 
head  unites  with  the  body,  and  dislocated  the  spine. 

They  grow  to  a  great  size,  and  are  often  quite  destructive 
to  dogs,  hogs,  deer,  and  even  calves,  which  go  into  the  water 
to  relieve  themselves  from  heat,  and  some  of  them  to  escape 
the  persecution  of  flies  and  other  insects.  They  are  covered 
with  a  shield  of  strong  and  closely  fitted  scales,  which,  on 
many  parts  of  their  body,  is  impenetrable  by  a  rifle  ball.  It 
is  thought  however  that  their  numbers  are  rapidly  diminishing. 
They  may  be  readily  extirpated  from  many  of  their  haunts  by 
a  very  simple  process,  which  was  found  to  be  an  effectual  ex- 
periment, by  Col.  R.  of  Florida. 

Finding  several  ponds  upon  his  plantation  infested  by  alli- 
gators, and  that  they  seemed  likely  to  destroy  all  his  swine, 
he  commenced  watching  for  and  shooting  them.  Though  he 
thus  killed  large  numbers,  no  sensible  diminution  of  them  or 
their  depredations  was  observed.  He  then  went  to  a  neigh- 
boring blacksmith,  and  ordered  several  hooks  of  large  size,  in 
the  form  of  fish  hooks,  to  be  made  with  a  chain  a  foot  and  a 
half  long  attached.  To  these  chains  he  tied  ropes  for  his  fish 
lines.  Baiting  each  of  his  hooks  with  a  bird,  squirrel,  or 
other  flesh,  he  placed  it  on  a  piece  of  bark,  shoved  it  out  from 


200  TORTOISES. 

the  shore,  and  tied  his  ropes  to  trees.  Shortly  after  all  was 
still,  a  large  alligator  showed  himself  above  the  water,  and 
smelling  the  bait  immediately  swallowed  one  of  the  hooks. 
Feeling  the  point  of  the  hook  in  his  flesh,  with  instinctive 
quickness  he  sought  the  bottom  of  the  water,  when  he  soon 
drowned,  and  was  drawn  ashore  dead.  In  two  days  the  pond 
was  cleared,  and  rendered  a  safe  retreat  for  domestic  animals 
from  the  heat  of  the  sun.  The  like  course  soon  removed  all 
difficulties  of  this  sort  from  the  plantation,  and  needed  not  to 
be  renewed  till  the  end  of  two  years. 

As  in  the  extensive  swamps  and  lagoons  of  Florida,  they 
are  secure  from  pursuit  and  do  multiply  in  great  numbers,  it  is 
probable  that  they  can  much  more  easily  be  extirpated  in 
Texas  than  in  that  country.  Several  other  varieties  of  the 
lizard,  all  of  them  small  and  harmless,  are  found  in  all  parts 
of  the  country;  especially  that  beautiful  and  sprightly  little 
one  the  chameleon,  is  very  common  and  much  admired.  To 
this  same  class  should  be  referred  another  curious  and  lively 
little  animal,  usually  called  the  horned  frog.  That  they  are 
not  frogs  is  clear  from  their  never  leaping,  but  running  quite 
rapidly,  and  from  their  having,  like  other  lizards,  a  tail.  They 
are  of  a  light  grey  color,  seem  covered  over  with  small  pro- 
jections from  their  skin,  and  two  small  projections  or  horns 
upon  the  front  part  of  his  head.  From  the  latter  circumstance 
they  derive  their  name. 

Tortoises  of  various  kinds  are  found  in  this  country.  The 
small  spotted  land  tortoise,  with  a  hinge  in  its  under  shell, 
would  probably  be  very  numerous  on  the  prairies  but  for  the 
frequent  burnings  of  the  grass,  which  are  too  hot  for  it  to  sur- 
vive, and  too  rapid  in  their  progress  for  it  to  escape.  The 
empty  shells  and  little  skeletons  are  often  found. 

The  gopher,  or  mungofa,  a  large  land  tortoise,  which  bur- 
rows in  the  earth  like  a  ground  hog,  is  also  not  uncommon. 

Numerous  fresh  water  tortoises,  of  different  kinds,  inhabit 


RATTLE    SNAKES.  201 

the  rivers  and  bayous.  All  or  nearly  all  of  them  are  believed 
to  be  excellent  food. 

But  the  largest  and  most  valuable  of  all  this  tribe  of  animals 
is  the  sea  or  soft-shelled  tortoise,  which  are  abundant  in  and 
about  Aransaso  bay.  They  are  very  numerous,  grow  to  a  large 
size,  and  may  be  conveyed  alive  to  any  required  distance.  It 
is  unnecessary  to  say,  that  their  flesh  is  a  great  luxury,  espe- 
cially when  prepared  in  that  most  savory  form,  turtle  soup. 
Such  a  dish,  fit  for  London  aldermen,  may  be  cheap  and  ordi- 
nary food  in  the  south  and  west  of  Texas. 

Few  countries  as  recently  settled  by  white  men  are  as  free 
from  serpents  as  this.  This  fact  may  be  attributed  in  part 
perhaps  to  the  power  of  the  fire  that  burns  the  prairies,  and 
destroys  all  that  cannot  fly  from  its  approach ;  and  in  part  to 
the  fact  that  the  structure  of  the  country  affords  them  few 
hiding  places.  Still  there  are  several  varieties  of  serpents  in 
Texas,  some  of  which  are  venomous,  and  whose  bite,  if  not 
healed  by  appropriate  remedies,  would  be  often  fatal. 

The  rattle  snake,  if  not  the  most  venomous  and  dangerous 
of  any  of  the  serpent  race,  is  believed  to  be  more  so  than  any 
other  in  America.  The  hooded  snake  of  Asia  may  possess  a 
more  full  poison,  whose  quick  action  is  seldom  cured  ;  but  his 
residence  is  limited  to  the  eastern  world.  Rattle  snakes  are 
sometimes  found  here  of  gr.eat  size,  and  possess  fangs  propor- 
tioned to  their  growth,  some  of  them  not  less  than  half  an  inch 
long.  Horses  and  cattle  are  sometimes  bitten  by  them  and 
killed.  When  the  bite  takes  place  in  the  presence  of  the 
owner,  the  life  of  the  animal  may  in  most  cases  be  saved.  To 
men,  but  for  the  use  of  remedies,  many  of  which  are  effica- 
cious, their  bite  would  perhaps  be  uniformly  deadly ;  by  their 
timely  application,  however,  all  danger,  and  nearly  all  incon* 
venience,  is  prevented. 

As  some  remedies  are  not  always  within  reach,  and  as  a 
physician  in  such  cases  would  frequently  be  too  distant  to  af« 


202    CURE  FOR  THE  BITE  OF  THE  RATTLE  SNAKE. 

ford  relief,  perhaps  the  naming  of  some  remedies  would  not 
be  improper.  One  of  these  communicated  by  a  physician, 
and  based  upon  his  own  experience,  is  very  simple  and  pro- 
bably very  efficacious.  To  the  freshly  bitten  surface  he  ap- 
plied a  bright  coal,  on  the  end  of  a  burning  hickory  stick,  and 
kept  it  there  long  enough  to  produce  a  deep  blister.  This 
was  performed  about  sunset  upon  a  soldier's  leg.  The  next 
day  the  man  marched  and  did  duty  as  usual.  By  thus,  with  a 
small  coal  or  hot  iron  changing  the  character  of  the  wound, 
all  danger  may  be  at  once  removed.  If  immediately  on 
being  bitten  the  wound  be  scarified  with  a  lancet  or  penknife, 
and  any  alkali  rubbed  into  it,  it  will  probably  be  at  once  re- 
lieved. It  would  be  well  withal  to  drink  freely  of  weak  lye, 
or  other  alkaline  drinks,  and  take  a  free  cathartic. 

The  bruized  leaves  of  a  plant  growing  plentifully  in  the 
pine  woods,  called  the  rattle  snake's  master,  is  said  to  be  ef- 
fectual in  preventing  the  effects  of  the  poison.  Probably  also 
magnesia,  or  other  absorbing  material,  would  be  likely  to  be  a 
successful  application. 

Rattle  snake's  seldom  bite  unless  provoked,  and  usually 
give  warning  of  their  purpose  by  a  rapid  movement  of  their 
tail,  which  induces  their  rattles  to  hum  with  a  noise  some- 
what resembling  the  buzzing  of  a  nest  of  disturbed  humble 
bees.  They  do  however  sometimes  become  assailants,  and 
bite  before  making  their  threatening  rattle.  There  is  also 
another  and  much  smaller  species  of  this  snake,  commonly 
called  the  ground  rattle  snake.  The  last  are  seldom  more 
than  a  foot  long,  of  a  yellowish  color,  and  equally  venomous  as 
the  larger  ones.  The  remedies  for  both  and  all  other  ser- 
pent's poison  is  the  same. 

The  land  and  water  moccasin,  coach-whip,  and  copper-head 
snakes  are  believed  to  be  the  only  other  venomous  kinds,  be- 
sides the  rattle  snake.*  Their  bite  is  little  if  any  less  dan- 

*  Though  the  authority  upon  which  the  above  statements  are  made  is  res- 


LARGE    SPIDER.  203 

gerous  than  that  of  their  more  dreaded  neighbor,  but  they  can 
more  readily  escape,  and  wounds  from  them  are  less  frequent. 
There  are  several  species  of  serpents  which  are  not  veno- 
mous, have  no  fangs,  and  are  entirely  innocent  of  any  direct 
injury  to  man.  One  of  these  called  the  chicken  snake,  is 
very  handsome,  being  finely  mottled  with  bright  colors;  but 
as  he  delights  to  feed  upon  poultry  is  no  favorite  with  their 
owners.  The  bull  snake  is  a  large  serpent,  colored  like  the 
rattle  snake,  but  the  colors  are  more  bright.  He  is  believed 
to  be  harmless,  except  for  food.  Black  snakes  attain  consid- 
erable size,  some  of  which  are  as  agile  as  the  deer.  They 
seem  to  belong  to  the  constrictor  family,  destroying  their  prey, 
including  the  rattle  snake,  by  coiling  around  it  and  squeezing 
it  to  death.  A  green  snake,  about  three  feet  long,  was  descri- 
bed by  the  Hon.  B.  T.  Archer.  Water  and  garter  snakes  are 
common.  They  all  feed  upon  flesh,  and  are  all  animals  of 
prey.  Especially  are  they  terrible  enemies  to  frogs,  toads, 
young  birds,  and  almost  all  small  animals. 

INSECTS. 

Though  perhaps  without  philosophical  correctness,  we 
shall  include  under  this  head  nearly  all  the  very  small  animals 
that  require  attention,  as  well  as  that  belonging  clearly  to  that 
family. 

One  of  the  most  singular,  and,  to  many,  alarming  insects  of 
this  country,  is  a  large,  hairy  and  ill-looking  spider.  His 
color  is  nearly  black,  his  hairs  or  bristles  cover  his  whole 
body  and  legs  ;  his  legs  are  long,  and,  when  he  walks,  fre- 


pectable,  some  doubt  exists  in  the  writer's  mind  as  to  their  entire  accuracy. 
There  are  probably  some  hissing  and  spreading  vipers,  and  cotton-mouth 
snakes,  if  no  more,  which  are  highly  venomous.  The  Indians  in  the  south- 
ern U.  S.  say  that  the  bite  of  the  latter  cannot  be  cured,  but  this  is  a  mis- 
take. 


204  THE    CENTIPEDE. 

quently  expand  to  a  width  of  five  or  six  inches.  Like  all 
other  spiders,  he  feeds  upon  small  animals,  which  he  takes  by 
surprise  or  stratagem.  Many  stories  have  been  told  of  the 
fierceness  and  venom  of  this  insect,  but  from  no  person  could 
any  direct  evidence  be  found  that  he  is  apt  to  bite  even  when 
assailed,  or  that  the  wound  he  inflicts  is  either  dangerous  or 
more  painful  than  the  sting  of  the  large  white  tailed  hornet. 
There  is  much  probability  in  the  opinion,  that  the  fears  of 
persons  have  magnified  the  danger  of  this  creature,  from  the 
offensive  and  disgusting  appearance  it  makes.  It  would  seem 
that  though  not  unfrequently  found  they  are  not  numerous,  and 
no  instances  have  been  related  to  us  of  injury  from  their  at- 
tacks. Spiders  of  various  kinds  and  habits  are  found  in  Texas 
as  elsewhere. 

The  centipede  is  another  very  disagreeable  looking  little 
being,  which  is  occasionally  found  here,  though  probably  not 
more  frequently  than  in  Florida  and  some  parts  of  Louisiana, 
As  their  name  implies,  they  are  remarkable  for  the  immense 
number  of  their  legs  and  feet.  They  run  with  considerable 
swiftness,  and  hide  with  much  dexterity  from  the  light,  choos- 
ing to  perform  their  whole  labors  in  the  night.  They  are  car- 
nivorous, and  very  much  disposed  to  meet  every  assailant  with 
fierce  resistance.  Their  bite  is  somewhat  poisonous,  produ- 
cing considerable  swelling  and  local  inflammation.  The  im- 
mediate application  of  cupping,  or  any  like  practice,  is  said  to 
remove  the  pain  and  difficulty  at  once.  Still  they  are  trouble- 
some insects,  especially  in  log  houses  and  partially  decayed 
buildings,  where  they  find  convenient  hiding  places. 

Still  another  offensive  and  troublesome  little  animal  is  the 
scorpion.  This  creature  is  very  diminutive,  seldom  exceed- 
ing in  this  country  one  or  two  inches  in  length.  In  appear- 
ance it  greatly  resembles  the  crawfish ;  his  arms  are  similar, 
his  body  nearly  of  the  same  shape,  and  his  color  exactly  like 
them.  His  posterior  part  is  composed  of  a  jointed  tail,  termi- 
nated by  a  short  strong  curved  and  sharp  sting,  at  the  base  of 


MUSQUITOES.  205 

which  is  a  small  cist  containing  a  fluid  and  highly  irritating 
poison.  When  excited  to  anger,  he  turns  his  head  towards 
the  object  of  his  wrath,  and  throws  forward  his  tail  like  the 
motion  of  a  whip-lash,  strikes  it  with  the  pointed  sting  in  its 
extremity,  injecting  into  the  wound  a  portion  of  its  venomous 
fluid.  The  wound  thus  inflicted  is  painful,  attended  with 
swelling  and  itching  sensations.  It  is  not  however  believed 
to  be  dangerous,  and  is  easily  relieved.  These  animals  have 
been  found  in  most  of  the  southern  states,  but  there  as  here 
they  are  rare. 

One  found  in  the  cavity  of  a  hollow  stick,  which  was  split 
for  fuel,  at  Houston  in  March  last,  was  a  great  curiosity  to  all 
the  boarders  of  a  boarding  house,  very  few  of  them  ever 
having  seen  an  animal  of  the  kind. 

With  the  exception  of  the  bee  and  wasp  families,  these  are 
believed  to  be  the  only  venomous  insects  in  Texas.  And  so 
little  dread  do  these  awaken  that  most  of  the  settlers  in  the 
country  take  no  precautions  against  them,  and  go  about  their 
fields,  stables  and  out  houses  barefoot,  without  any  thought  of 
danger. 

Musquitoes,  along  the  coast  and  in  the  lowlands,  as  in  all 
parts  of  Alabama  and  Louisiana  near  the  streams,  for  some 
distance  in  the  interior,  are  numerous  and  troublesome.  Near 
all  the  streams,  bottoms  and  thick  woodlands  of  this  region, 
they  are  a  severe  annoyance  even  to  horses  and  cattle,  and 
no  one  would  think  of  sleeping  without  his  musquitoe  bar* 
Passing  to  the  undulating  region  their  number  diminishes,  and 
after  reaching  Rutersville,  they  almost  entirely  disappear.  It 
is  asserted  by  some,  that  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos, 
Colorado,  etc.,  they  are  unknown,  as  are  also  horse  flies  of 
any  description.  It  is  the  boast  of  the  settlers  in  these  parts, 
that  they  are  free  from  the  annoyance  of  any  of  the  blood- 
sucking tribes  of  insects. 

A  very  minute  little  animal  called  the  red  bug,  is  common 
to  this  country,  and  most  of  the  southern  and  southwestern 

J8 


206  HORSE    FLIES. 

/ 

states.  It  is  without  wings  and  never  visible,  till,  being  filled 
with  blood,  which  it  sucks  greedily,  it  assumes  the  appear- 
ance of  a  very  small  red  speck,  but  nothing  indicates  its  being 
possessed  of  life  or  motion,  except  the  itching  sensation  of  the 
part.  These  little  animals  are  very  numerous,  and  inhabit 
every  bush,  slick,  log  and  tuft  of  grass,  from  which  they  are 
collected  upon  the  clothes  of  persons  walking  or  riding  in  the 
woods.  When  it  is  suspected  that  numbers  of  them  have 
attached  themselves  to  children,  rubbing  their  skin  with  a 
cloth  wet  with  camphorated  spirits,  effectually  dislodges  them. 
The  same  remedy  is  equally  efficacious  in  removing  ticks, 
which,  though  large  enough  to  be  visible,  are  quite  as  annoy- 
ing as  red  bugs.  At  some  seasons  of  the  year  the  young  or 
seed  ticks  are  exceedingly  numerous.  These  little  animals 
are  furnished  with  a  proboscis  or  instrument,  by  which  they 
pierce  the  skin,  and  adhere  to  the  flesh  with  such  force,  as 
either  in  their  removal  to  leave  their  head  in  the  wound,  or 
lacerate  the  flesh  from  which  it  is  removed.  The  least  touch 
of  spirits  however  will  make  them  let  go  their  hold,  and  then 
the  effect  of  their  bite  is  trifling. 

In  all  the  lower  parts  of  Texas  the  horse  flies,  especially 
those  with  green  heads,  are  numerous  and  troublesome.  They 
bite  with  such  severity  that  blood  exudes  from  the  wound, 
even  after  the  fly  has  satisfied  his  appetite  and  departed.  Full 
often  after  travelling  for  a  day  the  legs  and  belly  of  a  horse 
will  be  found  speckled  with  these  small  clots  of  blood,  which, 
drying  among  the  hair,  feel  like  small  warts  upon  the  skin. 
Such  persecution  must  be  very  painful  and  injurious  to  that 
noble  animal.  This  latter  insect  is  confined  however  almost 
exclusively  to  the  lower  or  coast  region  of  country.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  as  settlements  increase,  and  the  tall  grass  is  eaten 
away  by  cattle,  these  vexatious  insects  will  rapidly  diminish, 
and  perhaps  become  extinct.  They  are  not  worse  here  how- 
ever than  they  formerly  were  in  Illinois.  Other  varieties  of 
the  horse  fly  though  numerous  are  less  troublesome. 


ANTS,    SPANISH    1THES,    ETC.  1  207 

But  perhaps  tlie  most  numerous  kind  of  insects  found  in 
this  country  is  the  family  of  ants.  Several  different  kinds  of 
these  are  found,  all  of  them  multitudinous,  and  to  him  who 
shall  venture  to  sit  or  even  tread  upon  their  domains,  a  trouble- 
some company.  Every  log  and  decaying  tree  forms  a  home 
for  thousands  of  these  little  creatures,  and  upon  every  dry 
prairie  numerous  elevations  are  formed  by  their  industry. 
Some  of  these  are  broad,  covering  many  square  yards  of 
ground,  which  by  their  influence  is  rendered  entirely  useless. 
This  sterile  spot  is  moreover  constantly  enlarging,  and  no 
person  except  in  the  coldest  part  of  winter  can  venture  near 
it  with  impunity.  No  method  has,  it  is  believed,  been  sug- 
gested, by  which  to  break  up  these  large  ant  beds,  or  check 
the  increase  and  depredations  of  their  inhabitants.  As  they 
are  known  to  feed  upon  grain  as  well  as  flesh,  might  not  the 
seed  of  poppies  be  as  destructive  to  them  as  it  is  to  house 
crickets  ?  And  would  not  the  burning  of  heavy  piles  of  brush 
or  logs  upon  these  subterranean  cities,  either  dislodge  their 
defenders,  or,  at  least,  greatly  lessen  their  number  and  check 
their  operations  ? 

Sand  flies  are  said  in  some  places  to  be  troublesome  from 
their  numbers,  almost  blinding  the  traveller  by  nearly  covering 
his  face  and  getting  into  his  eyes.  Cantharides  or  Spanish 
flies  commonly  used  for  blistering,  and  sold  in  all  parts  of  the 
United  States  for  that  purpose,  are  here  very  common.  They 
are  entirely  harmless  except  when  crushed  upon  the  skin, 
which,  unless  prevented  by  careful  washing,  produces  a  blis- 
ter. The  common  house-fly,  the  fly  whose  larvae  are  so  offen- 
sive in  flesh  or  cheese,  butterflies  of  many  kinds,  fire-flies 
and  grasshoppers,  need  no  description  or  notice.  Wasps  of 
the  various  kinds  common  in  the  United  States  are  numerous, 
but  not  generally  very  troublesome.  The  long  red  wasp  and 
small  yellow  wasp  are  very  destructive  among  the  ripening 
grapes  of  a  vineyard. 


208  BEETLES. 

Great  numbers  of  crustaceous  little  animals,  sueh  as  beetles 
and  the  like,  abound,  with  all  the  varieties  of  insects  belong- 
ing to  dry  and  warm  climates.  To  give  even  a  list  of  the 
zoology  of  Texas  would  enlarge  our  work  beyond  its  pre- 
scribed dimensions.  We  have  shewn  enough  for  all  the  use- 
ful purposes  of  the  emigrant  and  husbandman. 


RAPID    IMPROVEMENTS  209 


CITIES,    TOWNS,    ETC 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


Jasper,  San  Augustine  and  Nacogdoches  are  situated  on  the  Neches 
river  and  its  branches. — Anahuac,  Liberty,  Alabama  and  Cincinnati 
on  the  Trinity. — Galveston,  Bolivar  and  Austinia  on  Galveston  bay. — 
Harrisburg  and  Houston  on  Buffalo  bayou. — Velasco  and  duintana  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Brazos. — Braznria,  San  Felipe  de  Austin  and  Wash- 
ington are  old  towns  on  the  Brazos.  —  Matagorda,  Columbus,  La 
Grange,  Rutersville  and  Austin  on  the  Colorado. — Victoria  and  Gon- 
zales  on  the  Guadalupe. — Linville,  Cox's  Point  and  DernilPs  Landing 
on  La  Baca  Bay. — Goliad  and  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  both  ancient 
Spanish  towns  on  the  San  Antonio. — 'Aransas,  Larnar  and  Copano  on 
Aransasa  bay. — S$n  Petrucio  on  the  Rio  Grande,  etc. — CURIOSITIES, 

A  strictly  correct  account  of  the  cities  and  towns  of  Texas 
is  difficult  to  obtain.  So  rapid  the  progress  Q£  settlements, 
and  so  sudden  the  rise  and  enlargement  of  towns,  that  what- 
was  yesterday  truth  becomes  to-morrow  a  tale  of  the  past — of 
w.hat  is  now  materially  changed.  Three  years  since  the  island 
of  Galveston  was  a  naked  bank  of  sand,  covered  only  with 
coarse  grass :  it  is  now  a  commercial  city,  noisy  with  the 
hum  of  thousands  of  busy  men,  and  laden  with  the  productions 
of  half  the  globe.  In  July  last  Austin  presented  to  the  view 
an  open  prairie,  with  here  and  there  a  live  oak  spreading  its, 
broad  foliage  to  the  unobstructed  breeze^  or  a  clump  of  shrub- 
bery gave  variety  to  the  landscape.  Now  it  is  the  seat  of  a 
nation's  authority,  the  residence  of  its  functionaries,  and  pre- 
sents to  the  eye  of  the  traveller  hundreds  of  dwellings  of  man, 

18* 


210  SAN    AUGUSTINE,    WACOGDOCHES,    ETC, 

How  then  shall  we  attempt  to  inform  our  readers  of  the 
present,  without  feeling  that  before  our  statements  meet  their 
eyes,  numerous  changes  will  have  come  over  the  scenes  of 
which  we  speak.  It  is  a  pleasing  reflection,  however,  that 
all  these  changes  are  of  one  kind,  and  all  tell  of  advancement 
in  all  that  is  desirable  in  a  new  and  half  settled  region.  Over 
other  changes  humanity  must  weep,  but  these  are  like  the 
changes  from  the  first  faint  beams  of  morning  to  the  bright 
effulgence  of  full  blown  day. 

In  order  to  give  something  like  arrangement  and  form  to 
our  notice  of  the  towns  of  the  republic,  it  is  proposed  to  com- 
>mence  at  or  near  the  mouths  of  the  several  rivers,  beginning 
at  the  Sabine,  and  going  upward,  name  all  that  are  found  on 
them. 

SABINE  CITY,  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  pass  or 
inlet  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  Sabine  lake.  It  is  a  new 
town,  lately  laid  out,  and  consequently  not  much  known,  nor 
containing  many  inhabitants.  It  is  regarded  as  being  very 
advantageously  situated,  and  lots  are  sold  at  good  prices. 
When  the  boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Texas 
shall  have  been  determined,  and  the  lands  along  the  Sabine 
and  Neches  rivers  settled,  it  is  expected  that  this  must  become 
a  place  of  extensive  trade.  Farther  up  the  river  are  seen  the 
names  of  Princeton,  Salem  and  Belgrade,  in  the  county  of 
-Jasper.  Still  ascending,  the  traveller  arrives  at  Milam,  Ta- 
naha  and  Shelbyville,  the  latter  the  county  seat  of  Shelby 
county. 

B'EAUMONT,  JASPER,  SAN  AUGUSTINE,  and  NACOGDOCHES 
are  situated  on  the  Neches  and  its  branches. 

Jasper  is  the  county  seat  of  the  county  of  Jasper,  and  is 
situated  upon  Sandy  creek. 

San  Augustine  is  a  new  and  thriving  town  situated  on  the 
Zavala  creek,  where  it  is  crossed  by  the  principal  road  from 
Natchitoches  in  the  United  States  to  San  Antonio  de  Bexar. 


ALABAMA,    LIBERTY,    ETC. 

It  is  the  first  considerable  town  the  emigrant  reaches  after 
entering  the  republic.  It  is  thought  that  the  Sabine  may  be 
rendered  navigable  to  within  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  from 
this  place. 

Nacogdoches  is  an  old  Spanish  town,  situated  on  the  San 
Antonio  road  sixty  miles  west  of  the  Sabine,  near  one  of  the 
branches  of  the  river  Augustine.  Most  of  the  Spanish  and 
Mexican  inhabitants  have  left  it,  and  it  is  becoming  an  English 
town.  It  suffered  much,  not  only  in  the  Mexican  revolution, 
but  also  in  the  present  war  of  independence.  It  is  however 
fast  recovering  from  the  effects  of  those  disasters,,  and  is  now* 
a  pleasant  if  not  a  delightful  residence. 

TERAN,  BEVIL  PORT,  ZAVALA  and  MENARD,  are  new  towns 
in  this  same  range,  whose  prospects  cannot  now  be  deter- 
mined. 

ANAHUAC,  LIBERTY,  FRANKLIN,  SWARTWODT,  GENEVA* 
CINCINNATI  and  ALABAMA,  are  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Trinity. 

Anahuac  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  an  old  town  which 
was  long  neglected,  but  now  bids  fair  to  become  important. 

Liberty,  the  next  place  above  Anahuac,  is  progressing,  and 
as  the  county  above  becomes  settled,  will  evidently  increase 
in  population  and  business.  The  rest  are  new  towns  at  dif- 
ferent points,  and  have  considerable  trade  with  the  surround- 
ing country. 

At  Alabama  a  female  school  is  established,  and  the  popula- 
tion is  rapidly  increasing.  Steam  boats  have  already  ascended 
to  this  point.  This  town  and  Cincinnati  are  in  the  coal  region. 
Other  valuable  ores  are  also  found  in  the  same  section.  The 
region  of  country  near  the  Trinity  is  now  rapidly  settling  with 
planters  and  mechanics,  the  effect  of  which  upon  these  towns 
will  be  to  cause  a  considerable  increase  of  business  and 
wealth. 

GALVESTON,  VIRGINIA,  AUSTINIA,  SAN  LEON,  BOLIVAR 


212  HOUSTON,    HARRISBURGH,    ETC. 

and  NEW  WASHINGTON,  are  all  situated  on  different  parts  of 
Galveston  bay. 

The  most  important  commercial  town  of  these  and  of  all 
the  towns  of  Texas  is  Galveston.  This  city  is  now  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  by  sea  to  the  republic,  and  the  principal  depot 
for  commercial  purposes  and  all  national  naval  property.  It 
contains  as  yet  few  public  buildings,  but  several  will  soon  be 
erected.  A  presbyterian  church  is  progressing,  a  light  house 
will  soon  be  commenced,  and  probably  several  buildings  for 
the  use  of  the  county  and  the  government.  Its  present  popu- 
lation is  estimated  at  about  two  thousand. 

All  these  towns  except  Galveston  and  Bolivar,  are  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  bay. 

Austiriia  is  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  a  projected  rail-road 
from  Galvestcm  bay  to  the  Brazos  river.  They  are  all  new 
and  their  destiny  as  yet  unfixed. 

LVNCHBURGH,  HARRISBURGH  and  HOUSTON,  are  situated 
on  the  Buffalo  bayou  ;  the  two  former  old  towns. 
Lynchburgh  seems  to  be  at  a  stand. 

Harrisburgh  was  burnt  by  the  Mexicans  in  the  late  or 
rather  present  war,  and  has  not  been  rebuilt ;  the  proprietors 
however  are  endeavoring  to  revive  it,  especially  since  the  in- 
corporation of  a  company  to  make  a  rail-road  from  that  point 
to  the  Brazos. 

Houston,  the  late  seat  of  government  of  Texas  is  a  con- 
siderable and  growing  town,  at  the  extreme  head  of  navigation 
on  the  bayou.  It  enjoys  a  quite  extensive  trade  with  the 
interior,  especially  the  settlers  on  the  Brazos.  Though  its 
growth  seemed  to  be  slightly  checked  by  the  removal  of  the 
seat  of  government,  it  still  continues  to  grow,  and  houses  are 
in  progress  of  erection  in  every  part  of  the  city.  A  presby- 
terian church  and  an  academy,  with  the  court-house  and  the 
former  capitol,  are  its  present  public  buildings.  It  contains 
one  good  school  and  another  is  commencing.  Clergymen  of 
several  different  denominations  reside  in  the  city,  and  some 


VELASCO,    WASHINGTON,    ETC.  213 

of  them  are  devoted  solely  to  the  work  of  the  ministry.  The 
population  is  estimated  at  two  thousand.  Two  newspapers 
are  published  here,  one  of  them  daily  the  other  weekly. 
Probably  it  ought  to  rank  as  the  second  most  important  town 
at  present  in  the  republic. 

MONTGOMERY,  the  county  seat  of  the  county  of  the  same 
name,  is  situated  on  a  small  creek  tributary  to  the  San  Jacinto. 
Of  its  advantages  other  than  those  derived  from  its  judicial 
relations,  no  information  is  possessed. 

LIVERPOOL  is  a  new  town  at  the  intersection  of  the  pro- 
jected rail-road  between  Galveston  bay  and  the  Brazos,  and 
the  Chocolate  bayou.  It  is  a  point  nearly  central  between 
the  two  terminations  of  the  road. 

VELASCO  and  Q,UINTANA  are  situated  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  mouth  of  the  Brazos  river.  Both  of  these  towns  possess 
considerable  trade  with  the  interior,  and  are  delightfully  situ- 
ated for  summer  residences.  An  ever  fresh  sea  or  land  breeze 
mitigates  the  heat  and  refreshes  the  spirits.  The  river  and 
sea  furnish  abundant  supplies  of  shell  and  other  fish,  while 
sea  bathing  contributes  equally  to  luxury  and  health.  The 
accommodations  are  excellent,  and  the  comforts  to  be  enjoyed 
are  manifold.  Should  steam  boat  navigation  on  this  river  be 
soon  resumed,  as  it  can  scarcely  fail  to  do,  these  towns  would 
seem  to  enjoy  fine  opportunities  for  commerce  by  sea  and  land. 

BRAZORIA,  COLUMBIA,  RICHMOND,  SAN  FELIPE  DE  AUS- 
TIN and  WASHINGTON,  are  old  towns  on  the  Brazos,  all  of 
them  having  existed  previous  to  the  present  war. 

As  long  since  as  the  year  1831,  Brazoria  was  regarded  as 
being  one  of  the  most  growing  and  important  towns  in  Texas. 
And  for  many  years  since  it  was  considered  the  door  through 
•which  emigrants  to  Texas  must,  find  their  way  to  the  country. 
For  some  cause,  probably  the  difficulty  of  passing  the  bar  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Brazos,  it  has  not  succeeded  according  to  the 
expectation  of  its  friends.  It  is  however  a  pleasant  town, 


214  SAN    FELIPE    DE    AUSTIN. 

beautifully  situated  upon  a  handsome  elevation  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Brazos,  fifteen  miles  by  land  from  its  mouth.  It 
is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Brazoria  county,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  fertile  and  beautiful  section  of  country.  It  will  probably 
never  be  a  commercial  city,  but  an  interesting  and  pleasant 
county  town.  One  reason  why  this  and  other  such  towns  are 
slow  in  growth,  is  that  land  is  so  easily  obtained,  and  its  cul- 
ture so  profitable,  that  mechanics  and  professional  men  often 
prefer  residing  upqn  farms  at  a  little  distance,  to  remaining  in 
town. 

Columbia  is  at  some  distance  above  Brazoria,  on  the  same 
side  of  the  river.  It  does  not  at  present  seem  to  advance 
much  in  population  or  business. 

Richmond  is  a  small  town  deriving  most  of  its  importance 
from  being  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Fort  Bend. 

San  Felipe  de  Austin  was  burned  in  the  spring  of  1836,  by 
the  Texian  troops  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Houston,  at 
the  approach  of  the  Mexican  army  under  Santa  Anna.  Whe- 
ther this  was  done  by  the  order  of  Gen.  Houston,  is  matter 
of  dispute  between  him  and  Col.  Baker  who  set  the  fires. 
Since  that  time  it  has  been  partially  rebuilt,  though  in  a  very 
indifferent  style.  The  town  is  beautifully  situated  upon  an. 
elevated  and  fertile  plain,  admirably  adapted  for  gardens  and 
the  cultivation  of  either  trees  or  field  crops.  The  country 
about  it  is  beautiful,  exhibiting,  in  close  connection,  elegant 
undulating  prairies,  rich  level  bottoms,  and,  in  some  direc- 
tions, dense  forests.  The  river  is  here  navigable  for  steam- 
boats, and  thus  offers  every  inducement  to  enterprise.  To  all 
this  the  mere  shells  of  houses,  hardly  equal  to  comfortable 
barns  at  the  north,  without  school  houses  or  churches,  pre- 
sents a  striking  but  unpleasant  contrast.  But  will  this  long 
be  the  fact  ?  It  is  presumed  that  it  will  not.  Very  soon 
these  houses  will  be  superseded,  and  good  substantial  dwel- 
lings erected  in  their  stead  ;  the  school  house  and  the  church 


MATAGO/RDA,    BASTROP,    ETC. 

shall  appear  instead  of  the  billiard  table,  and  the  congregation 
of  worshippers  instead  of  idlers  about  the  dram  shop. 

Washington  is  situated  in  a  large  bend  in  the  Brazos,  about 
fifty  miles  above  San  Felipe.  It  seems  to  have  been  expected 
that  it  would  become  the  seat  of  government.  It  is  the  county 
seat  for  Washington  county,  and  is  said  to  contain  an  excel- 
lent academy,  taught  by  a  competent  and  able  teacher.  It  ia 
in  the  midst  of  the  fertile  lands  of  the  Brazos. 

BOLIVAR,  MONTICELLO,  TENOXTILLAN,  NASHVILLE,  MI- 
LAM  and  FRANKLIN,  are  new  towns  on  the  same  river,  ex- 
cept the  last,  which  is  on  one  of  its  tributaries. 

Bolivar  is  situated  at  the  western  termination  of  the  Gal- 
veston  bay  and  Brazos  rail  road.  Its  success  or  failure  must 
depend  greatly  upon  the  results  attendant  upon  the  rail  road. 

Nashville  is  said  to  be  a  very  growing  town,  but  its  statis- 
tics have  not  been  obtained.  It  is  situated  in  Milam  county, 
below  the  falls  of  the  Brazos,  near  where  the  San  Andres 
empties  into  that  river. 

Franklin  is  at  some  distance  eastward  of  the  Brazos,  and 
the  seat  of  justice  for  Robertson  county.  So  new  are  these 
towns  that  definite  information  concerning  them  is  difficult  to 
be  obtained.  Farther  up  the  Brazos  no  towns  have  yet  been 
established. 

MATAGORDA,  COLUMBUS,  RUTERSVILLE,  LAGRANGE,  BAS- 
TROP and  AUSTIN,  are  the  towns  on  the  Colorado  river. 

Matagorda  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of -the  Colorado,  has 
been  long  settled,  and  enjoys  a  considerable  trade  with  the  in- 
terior. Owing  to  the  raft  in  the  river  which  obstructs  its  navi- 
gation, this  town  has  not  derived  so  much  benefit  from  the 
trade  of  the  upper  country  as  might  have  been  expected. 
Should  these  obstructions  be  removed,  as  it  is  thought  they 
soon  must  be,  the  trade  of  this  town  will  no  doubt  rapidly  in- 
crease, arid  its  population'  and  resources  be  proportionally 
enlarged.  Eventually  it  must  become  a  place  of  considerable 


216  COLUMBUS,  LAGRANGE,  ETC. 

size.  It  now  contains  a  respectable  academy,  taught  by  a 
clergyman  of  the  episcopal  church. 

Columbus  and  Lagrange  are  situated  far  up  this  river,  not 
very  far  as  is  supposed  from  the  head  of  navigation,  which  is 
however  doubtful,  and  just  beginning  to  attract  notice.  Till 
the  river  can  be  the  channel  through  which  goods  may  ascend 
into  the  country,  these  towns  cannot  acquire  very  much  im- 
portance. 

Rutersville  has  been  already  so  fully  described  as  to  require 
little  more  attention  here.  Its  growth  and  ultimate  advance- 
ment will  depend  very  much  upon  the  success  of  the  literary 
institutions  there  established. 

Colorado  City  is  perhaps  the  least  hopeful  of  all  the  towns 
upon  this  river. 

Bastrop,  named  after  the  baron  de  Bastrop,  is  situated  upon 
the  right  bank  of  the  Colorado  where  it  is  crossed  by  the 
great  San  Antonio  road.  It  is  the  county  seat  for  Bastrop 
county.  It  is  however  but  a  small  town,  standing  upon  a 
beautiful  level  prairie  of  considerable  extent,  the  whole  of 
which  is  now  enclosed  in  fences,  dotted  with  farm  houses, 
and  subjected  to  the  power  of  the  plough.  Seen  from  the 
summits  of  the  neighboring  highlands,  these  regular  map-like 
divisions  are  very  beautiful  and  pleasing,  and  at  the  same  time 
indicate  the  prospect  of  abundance  of  the  fruits  of  the  earth. 
Even  the  hill-sides  in  the  rear  of  the  town  are  all  laid  under 
contribution  by  the  husbandman,  and  will  be  compelled,  in 
common  with  the  flat  ground,  to  yield  from  their  bosom  ne- 
cessaries and  comforts  to  man. 

Austin,  situated  thirty-five  miles  above  Bastrop,  on  the  same 
river,  is,  in  the  strictest  sense  of  the  term,  a  new  city,  being 
at  this  hour,  June  1st,  1840,  less  than  one  year  old.  In  less 
than  one  short  year  the  solitary  wild,  and  the  range  of  the 
bison,  has  been  transformed  into  the  clustered  collection  of 
houses  ;  and  the  mingled  crowd  of  senators,  judges,  lawyers 


LINVILLE,    VICTORIA,    ETC.  217 

and  soldiers,  occupying  the  late  lair  of  the  wolf  and  tiger. 
But  so  fully  have  we  before  spoken  of  this  city  of  the  wilder- 
ness (see  page  62)  that  we  forbear,  merely  referring  our  read- 
ers to  what  they  will  there  find,  and  the  view  of  the  infant 
capital  at  the  beginning  of  the  volume. 

LINVILLE,  Cox's  Poirf-r,  and  DEMITT'S  LANDING  are 
new  towns  on  La  Baca  bay,  an  arm  of  Matagorda  bay.  They 
are  yet  small,  and  probably  when  one  of  them  shall  obtain  a 
considerable  advantage,  in  capital  or  business  over  the  others, 
it  may  so  absorb  the  trade  that  the  others  may  decline  instead 
of  advancing. 

At  different  points  of  Matagorda  bay,  are  also  found  Tres^ 
palacios  and  Calhoun.  The  latter  was  laid  off  by  the  govern- 
ment on  the  eastern  extremity  of  Matagorda  island.  Of  its 
prospects  we  have  no  definite  information. 

TEXANA  is  situated  a  little  above  the  junction  of  the  La 
Baca  and  Navidad  rivers.  It  is  fast  increasing  in  size  and 
business.  Some  think  it  will  become  a  place  of  deposit  for 
the  trade  between  Austin  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

VICTORIA  and  GONZALES  are  situated  upon  the  Guada- 
Jupe,  and  are  old  towjis  and  formerly  inhabited  mostly  by 
Mexicans. 

The  town  of  Gonzales  was  burned  in  the  late  war  by  the 
Mexicans.  It  has  been  partially  rebuilt,  is  the  county  seat 
for  Gonzales  county,  and  will  probably  soon  become  respecta- 
ble for  numbers,  business  and  wealth.  It  formerly  contained 
a  respectable  academy,  and  will  not  likely  neglect  the  subject 
of  education  hereafter. 

Victoria  is  now  growing  in  importance,  and  improving  in 
various  respects.  A  very  respectable  classical  and  mixed 
school  is  established  there,  and  conducted  by  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Blair,  late  of  Mississippi. 

SEGUIN  is  a  new  town  on  the  Guadalupe  above  Gonzales. 
Of  its  advantages  or  prospects  we  have  no  information. 

19 


218  GOLIAD. 

GOLIAD  and  SAN  ANTONIO  DE  BEXAR  are  both  ancient 
Spanish  towns  on  the  San  Antonio  river,  and  both  celebrated 
for  events  which  have  transpired  during  the  yet  unfinished 
war  of  Texian  independence. 

Goliad  is  specially  noted  as  the  place  of  perfidy  and  mur- 
der, for  here  the  brave  Fannin  and  his  men,  who  had  surren- 
dered as  prisoners  of  war,  with  explicit  stipulations,  in  direct 
•violation  of  the  law  of  nations  and  of  war,  and  in  palpable 
violation  of  the  express  covenant  of  the  Mexican  commander, 
were  murdered  in  cold  blood  by  order  of  the  president  of  the 
Mexican  republic.  This  act  of  infamy,  treachery^and  base- 
ness, has  never  been  disavowed  by  the  Mexican  government, 
and  hence  is  to  be  written,  in  deep  colors  of  shame,  upon  her 
national  escutcheon.  Henceforth  she  may  be  designated  as 
the  cruel  and  faithless  nation,  in  whose  public  acts  no  con- 
fidence can  be  reposed. 

San  Antonio,  much  farther  up  this  river  was  equally  ancient, 
fend  al  One  lime,  a  very  populous  city,  and  now  numbers  more 
than  two  thousand  inhabitants,  a  large  majority  of  whom  are 
Mexicans  and  Spaniards.  The  population  is  increasing  with 
astonishing  rapidity,  the  new  settlers  being  almost  exclusively 
of  English  or  American  origin.  In  a  very  short  time,  it  is 
presumed,  the  English  language  will  be  the  common  and  pre- 
vailing language  of  the  city.  Here  is  carried  on  even  now  an 
extensive  trade  with  Mexicans,  who  come  from  the  interior, 
bringing  with  them  some  few  articles  of  value,  but  mostly 
gold  and  silver,  and  purchase  the  goods  that  are  there  collected 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Most  of  these  pass  through  the 
hands  of  merchants  in  New  York  or  New  Orleans.  As  soon 
as  hostilities  cease  between  Texas  and  Mexico  it  is  expected 
that  this  trade  will  be  vastly  increased,  and  the  city  soon 
resume  all  its  former  magnificence  and  wealth.  Its  buildings 
are  mostly  of  stone  with  terraced  roofs,  many  of  which,  when 
this  city  was  taken  from  the  Mexicans,  became  a  place  of 
conflict  and  blood.  Very  near  the  city,  on  the  other  side  of 


SAN    ANTONIO    DE    BEXAR.  219 

the  Salado  creek,  stand  the  ruins  of  a  strong  fortress  called 
the  Alamo. 

In  the  fall  and  winter  of  1835  this  city,  then  occupied  by 
Mexican  troops  under  the  command  of  General  Cos,  was  be- 
sieged by  a  body  of  Texians,  composed  mostly  of  volunteers 
and  militia.  After  some  time,  on  the  5th  of  December,  the 
city  was  assaulted  and  taken  by  the  troops  of  Colonel  Milam, 
who  fell  in  the  engagement.  The  enemy  fled  across  the 
creek  and  took  possession  of  the  Alamo.  Here,  though  rein- 
forced by  a  considerable  body  of  troops,  after  several  days  of 
severe  righting,  General  Cos  surrendered  the  fortress  and  all 
its  contents  to  General  Burleson,  an  officer  of  militia  com- 
manding the  volunteer  forces  of  Texas.  Thus  the  strongest 
post  of  the  Mexicans  in  Texas  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  troops 
of  the  new  republic.  In  February  following,  General  Santa 
Anna,  the  President  of  Mexico,  led  in  person  a  strong  force 
into  Texas  by  the  way  of  San  Antonio.  The  volunteers, 
whose  term  of  service  had  expired,  had  returned  home,  and 
this  important  post  was  left  undefended  by  but  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  men.  With  these  Colonel  Travers  took  pos- 
session of  the  Alamo.  Here,  besieged  by  two  or  three 
thousand  men  for  thirteen  days,  those  heroic  men  fought  night 
and  day  without  ceasing,  except  by  short  reliefs  of  one  ano- 
ther. On  the  6th  of  March,  about  midnight,  the  fort  was 
assaulted,  and  the  battle  raged  with  unusual  violence  till  day- 
light, when  but  seven  of  the  Texians  remained  alive.  Among 
these  were  Colonel  David  Crockett,  Mr.  Benton,  and  Colonel 
Bonham  of  South  Carolina.  They  asked  for  quarter,  but  were 
informed  that  there  was  no  mercy  for  them.  Denied  any 
hope  of  life,  they  continued  fighting  till  they  were  all  butch- 
ered. Colonel  Travis,  when  almost  dead»from  wounds  and 
loss  of  blood,  was  attacked  by  a  Mexican  officer.  Rallying 
his  remaining  powers  he  pierced  with  his  sword  the  body  of 
his  assailant,  and  with  him  fell  to  rise  no  more  in  time.  One 
lady,  Mrs.  Dickerson,  and  a  servant  boy  of  Colonel  Travis, 


220  ARKANSAS,    COPANO,    ETC. 

alone  were  allowed  to  live.  Colonel  Bowie  was  murdered  in 
his  bed,  to  which  he  had  for  some  time  been  confined  by  dis- 
ease. Thus  fell  the  Alamo  a  second  time  into  the  hands  of 
the  Mexicans,  for  all  its  brave  defenders  were  slain.  Well 
might  these  bloody  victors  think  the  time  would  come  when 
they  would  wish  this  deed  undone,  and  their  hands  unstained 
with  Texian  blood.  Few  and  short  the  days  before,  on  the 
plains  of  San  Jacinto,  the  war  cry  of  the  Alamo !  Alamo  ! 
became  the  death  knell  of  many  a  Mexican  soldier,  and  the 
signal  of  shame,  defeat  and  captivity  to  the  proud  president 
of  Mexico,  and  his  chief  officer  arid  relative,  Cos. 

And  will  not  in  future  days  Bexar  be  classic  ground  ?  Is 
it  not  by  victory  and  the  blood  of  heroes,  consecrated  to  liberty, 
and  sacred  to  the  fame  of  the  patriots  who  there  repose  upon 
the  very  ground  they  defended  with  their  last  breath  and  last 
drop  of  generous  blood  1  Will  Texiaris  ever  forget  them  ?  or 
cease  to  prize  the  boon  for  which  these  patriots  bled  ?  Forbid 
it  honor,  virtue,  patriotism.  Let  every  Texian  bosom  be  the 
monument  sacred  to  their  fame,  and  every  Texian  freeman  be 
emulous  of  their  virtues. 

ARANSAS,  LAMAR,  and  COPANO  are  situated  at  different 
points  upon  the  Aransaso  bay. 

Aransas  is  the  port  of  entry  for  this  bay,  and  is  situated  on 
the  eastern  extremity  of  a  long  peninsula,  between  Aransaso 
and  Copano  bays,  called  Live  Oak  Point.  This  town  is  im- 
proving with  much  spirit,  is  well  situated  and  enjoys  a  lucra- 
tive trade  with  Mexico. 

Lamar  is  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Aransaso  on 
point  Lookout,  and  begins  to  receive  considerable  attention, 
though  a  very  new  town. 

Copano,  near  th%  northern  extremity  of  the  bay,  is  a  new 
town,  though  it  has  long  been  a  landing  place  for  goods  des- 
tined to  the  interior.  It  is  urged  by  some  to  be  the  best  point 
at  which  to  land  goods  for  Lagrange,  Bastrop  and  Austin,  and 
to  nearly  all  points  on  the  San  Antonio.  It  seems  probable 


SAN    PATRICIO,    ETC.  221 

that  it  is  as  near  to  Austin  as  any  port  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
While  goods  are  transported  from  the  sea  board  to  Austin  by 
land,  it  may  perhaps  be  done  as  cheaply  from  this  point  as 
from  any  other;  but  it  is  certainly  desirable  that  this  should 
be  avoided  as  early  as  possible. 

AVOCA  is  the  name  of  a  new  town,  laid  out  at  the  head 
springs  of  the  San  Antonio  river.  The  position  of  the  town, 
the  crystalline  and  cool  waters  and  the  scenery,  are  declared 
to  be  beautiful  beyond  any  thing  known  even  in  Texas. 

REFUGIO  is  an  old  Spanish  town,  on  a  creek  running  into 
the  bay  of  Copano.  It  is  but  a  small  hamlet  with  a  few  build- 
ings. Its  name  signifies  flight,  or  a  place  for  the  fleeing  to 
escape  to.  Why  so  called  does  not  appear. 

GRAYSON  is  a  town  recently  laid  off  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Nueces  river  and  Corpus  Christi  bay.  As  the  country  up 
that  river  becomes  settled  much  business  must  be  done  in  this 
vicinity. 

SAN  PATRICIO,  or  Saint  Patrick,  once  a  considerable  town 
on  the  Nueces,  but  nearly  deserted  in  consequence  of  the 
troubles  of  war.  It  will  probably  soon  recover  from  its  diffi- 
culties, as  all  terror  from  the  Mexicans  has  ceased. 

LAREDO,  the  only  town  on  the  Texian  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  is  inhabited  by  about  one  hundred  Mexicans,  who 
seem  to  have  no  particular  wish  to  unite  with  the  centralists, 
in  opposing  the  progress  of  Texian  independence  and  pros- 
perity. 

SAN  Louis,  a  new,  or  rather  perhaps  a  contemplated  town, 
on  the  little  island  of  San  Louis,  in  the  west  pass  near  the 
western  extremity  of  Galveston  island.  It  is  declared,  upon 
respectable  authority,  that  the  channel  on  the  bar  is  deeper 
than  at  Galveston,  and  the  situation  fo^jjfade  more  eligible. 
Persons  interested  in  the  town  seem  confidently  to  anticipate 
that  it  will  soon  rival,  if  not  eclipse,  the  now  prosperous  port 
on  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  island. 


222  THE    CROSS    TIMBER. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  there  are  in  several  places  in 
Texas  prosperous  settlements,  and  some  little  villages  where 
the  people  find  the  benefits  of  proximity  without  the  dissipa- 
tion and  expense  of  towns.  Such  are  said  to  be  found  near 
Nacoodoches  in  eastern  Texas,  such  is  Independence,  and 
Coin's  settlement  on  the  Brazos.  These  it  is  believed  will 
multiply  as  the  country  becomes  more  densely  settled.  Such 
places  will  always  be  favored  spots  for  schools,  and  in  such 
positions  will  generally  be  found  the  regular  ministrations  of 
the  gospel  and  its  attendant  blessings,  industry,  peace,  intelli- 
gence, and  a  high  standard  of  morals 

CURIOSITIES. 

Very  many  things  are  found  in  Texas  which  might  appro* 
priately  be  referred  to  this  head.  Several  have  been  noticed 
in  the  preceding  pages,  which,  with  numerous  others,,  might 
well  have  formed  a  separate  chapter.  The  following  are 
conceived  to  be  sufficiently  interesting  to  find  a  place  under 
this  designation. 

THE  CROSS  TIMBER  is  a  long  range  of  timbered  land,  ex- 
tending from  the  head  waters  of  the  Trinity  river  in  a  line 
nearly  due  north  to  the  Red  river,  a  distance  of  at  least  one 
hundred  miles.*  Its  width  varies  from  three  to  five  miles. 
It  covers  every  variety  of  character  usual  in  that  part  of  the 
country,  whether  river  bottoms,  intermediate  banks  or  high 
bluffs  of  the  streams,  level  plains,  rolling  in  gentle  elevations 
or  lofty  and  sterile  hills  covered  with  pine.  In  much  of  the 
level  and  undulating  portion  of  it  no  marks,  the  timber  excep- 
ted,  show  any  difl^^nce  between  the  soil  there  and  the  adja- 

*The  same  range  of  timber  continues  on  the  north  side  of  Red  river 
quite  to  the  Arkansas,  varying  there  from  five  to  fifty  miles  in  width.  The 
account  above  includes  only  the  part  embraced  in  Texas.  That  north  of 
the  Red  river  is  in  the  U.  S.  A, 


CONICAL    HILLS.    "  223 

eent  prairie.  And  yet  so  distinct  and  regular  is  the  boundary 
of  both,  that  if  the  eye  of  the  curious,  in  surveying  it,  should 
look  along  its  western  border  it  would  appear  as  strait  as  if 
formed  upon  a  measured  meridian,  and  been  cut  out  by  the 
axe.  A  surveyor  who  marked  a  meridian  for  forty  miles  long 
a  very  little  distance  westward  of  it,  found  that  through  the 
whole  length  his  distance  from  this  range  of  forest  was  un- 
changed. 

The  timber  in  the  different  parts  of  this  range  varies  with 
the  nature  of  the  soil.  In  some  places  will  be  found  all  the 
varieties  usually  seen  in  river  bottoms,  in  others  those  kinds 
usually  interspersed  among  level  prairies,  again  will  be  found 
the  black  jack,  post  and  live  oak,  mingled  with  elm,  cedar  and 
the  like. 

Various  conjectures  have  been  started  respecting  the  origin 
and  nature  of  this  singular  long  and  narrow  forest.  Some 
have  supposed  that  it  was  the  work  of  art,  intended  to  mark 
the  boundary  between  rival  and  hostile  nations  of  Indians. 
Nothing  definite  however  has  been  discovered  to  show  that 
the  hand  of  man  ever  gave  existence  or  form  to  it. 

Be  its  origin  what  it  may,  it  seems  difficult  to  conceive  why 
the  scorching  flame  of  burning  herbage,  that  to  its  very  edge 
has  for  ages  destroyed  every  shrub  and  tree,  should  at  that 
border  cease  to  rage  and  allow  the  forest  to  stand  unscathed : 
or  why  the  seeds  that  planted  this  broad  parterre  of  woodland, 
should  not  have  fallen  irregularly  out  and  given  to  both  its 
sides  a  zig-zag  and  rude  irregularity.  As  it  is,  may  not  ima- 
gination conceive  it  to  be  an  extended  park,  skirting  the 
broad  pasture  lands  of  some  wealthy  patriarch  of  ancient 
days,  whose  name,  like  his  body  and  his  ambition,  has  per- 
ished forever  ? 

RANGES  OF  CONICAL  HILLS.  In  a  former  part  of  this 
volume,  mention  is  made  of  a  singular  hill  or  mound  on  the 
Brazos  river  below  San  Felipe.  Partaking,  in  some  respects 
at  least,,  of  the  same  character,  though  much  farther  from  the 


224  CURIOSITIES. 

ocean,  are  numerous  conical  and  isolated  hills  along  one  of 
the  branches  of  the  Brazos,  and  the  upper  Colorado.  Falling 
into  the  Brazos  from  the  right  near  the  town  of  Nashville,  is 
the  San  Andres  or  Little  river.  It  is  a  small  stream  running 
through  a  beautiful  country,  bordered  by  numerous  level  prai- 
ries. From  the  mouth  of  this  stream  to  near  its  source,  and 
on  both  sides  of  it  are  numerous  hills  of  considerable  height. 
They  are  so  situated  as  to  wear  the  appearance  of  having 
been  planted  in  waving  lines,  at  intervals  sufficiently  near  for 
one  to  be  distinctly  visible  to  those  next  to  it  above  and  below. 
They  are  nearly  of  the  same  height,  from  seventy-five  or 
eighty  to  one  hundred  feet.  The  position  of  each  of  them  is 
upon  a  plane  entirely  unconnected  with  other  hills,  and  the 
surface  around  them  equal  with  all  the  rest  of  the  prairie. 
A  large  proportion  of  the  matter  composing  them  appears  to 
consist  of  stratified  lime-stone,  mingled  with  petrified  sea 
shells  and  marine  substances.  The  average  distance  of  these 
mounds  or  hills  is  probably  about  ten  or  eleven  miles  from 
each  other,  and  the  length  of  the  lines  or  ranges  about  seventy 
miles.  The  water  in  this  region  is  affected  by  carbonate  of 
lime,  and  like  usual  lime  water  very  clear  and  transparent ; 
the  hills  are  wooded  to  a  considerable  degree  and  the  land 
about  them  fertile. 

Along  the  western  side  of  the  Colorado  above  the  city  of 
Austin  is  a  similar  chain  of  hills,  differing  in  no  visible  respect 
from  the  former,  except  that  it  is  a  single  instead  of  a  double 
range. 

For  information  respecting  these  curious  works  of  nature, 
we  are  indebted  to  the  kindness  of  Gen.  Burleson,  mentioned 
in  the  former  part  of  the  work.  Want  of  opportunity  alone 
prevented  a  personal  examination  of  at  least  a  part  of  these 
singular  hills,  seemingly  erected  for  signal  fires  by  which  to 
give  notice  to  the  warriors  of  an  approaching  and  deadly  con- 
flict. Will  not  both  the  antiquarian  and  geologist  find  in  them 
objects  of  deeply  interesting  inquiry  ? 


THE    AMERICAN    ALOE.  225 

ALOE.  The  great  American  aloe  (agave  Americana)  is  a 
native  of  the  south-western  portions  of  Texas.  It  is  the  plant 
frequently  found  in  pots,  with  exceedingly  thick  fleshy  leaves 
pointed  with  a  sharp  thorn  at  the  extremity  and  having  smaller 
thorns  along  the  edge.  It  is  a  large  plant,  the  stem  branched 
and  of  great  height.  The  flowers  have  the  tube  of  the  corolla 
narrowed  in  the  middle,  the  stamens  longer  than  the  corolla 
and  the  style  longer  than  the  stamens.  This  magnificent  na- 
tive of  North  America  is  by  no  means  an  uncommon  plant  in 
English  gardens,  but  is  seldom  seen  there  in  flower.  There 
is  a  notion,  but  an  erroneous  one,  that  it  does  not  bloom  until 
it  is  100  years  old.  The  fact  is,  that  the  time  of  flowering 
depends  almost  wholly  on  the  rapidity  of  its  growth.  In  hot 
countries  it  will  blossom  in  a  few  years ;  in  colder  climates  it 
is  longer  in  coming  to  maturity.  The  stem  which  bears  the 
blossoms  rises  from  the  centre  of  the  leaves,  and  when  the 
plant  is  in  a  vigorous  state  it  frequently  exceeds  the  height 
of  twenty  feet.  One  in  the  garden  of  the  king  of  Prussia  was 
forty  feet  high.  Branches  issue  from  every  side,  and  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  form  a  kind  of  pyramid,  composed  of  greenish 
yellow  flowers  which  stand  erect,  and  are  seen  in  thick  clus- 
ters at  every  joint.  When  in  full  flower  its  appearance  is  ex- 
tremely splendid,  and  if  the  season  be  favorable  a  succession 
of  blossoms  will  sometimes  be  produced  for  near  three 
months. 

The  above  description  was  made  from  these  plants  cultiva- 
ted as  exotics  at  the  north.  Here  they  would  greatly  tran- 
scend in  beauty  and  strength  all  that  is  seen  in  northern  re- 
gions. It  is  asserted  that  in  southern  Europe  they  are  used 
with  advantage  for  hedges  and  several  other  purposes.  Here 
they  will  be  splendid  ornaments,  and  why  not  make  them, 
useful  ? 


226  POPULATION. 


INHABITANTS,    MANNERS 


SOCIETY 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Mexicans  in  Texas — their  character,  habits,  etc. — Emigration  chiefly  from 
the  United  States  and  England. — Refutation  of  slanders  cast  on  Texas 
by  her  enemies. — Causes  of  the  neglect  of  literature  in  former  days. — 
Chivalrous  character  of  the  Texians. — Equality  of  all  classes. — Texian. 
females. —  Log  houses.  —  Furniture.  —  Detestable  habit  of  swearing. — 
Newspapers,  etc. 

THE  population  of  Texas,  exclusive  of  Indians,  has  been  va- 
riously estimated  from  150,000  to  200,000.  Such  however  is 
the  rapid  influx  of  emigrants,  that  the  above  is  quite  as  likely 
to  be  below  as  above  the  truth.  Though  this  is  made  up  of 
people  originating  from  various  sources,  a  large  majority  con- 
sists of  emigrants  from  the  United  States.  Some  three  or  four 
thousand  Mexicans  may  perhaps  be  found  resident  in  the 
republic,  composed  for  the  most  part  of  that  class  of  them, 
who,  being  attached  to  republican  principles,  resisted  the 
usurpations  of  Santa  Anna  and  centralism,  and  are  now  incor- 
porated with  the  people  of  independent  Texas.  Except  at 
Goliad  and  Bexar,  these  are  scattered  among  the  setilements, 
and  even  at  these  places  the  rapid  increase  of  Americans  will 
soon  leave  them  a  small  minority.  In  point  of  character  for 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    MEXICANS.  227 

intelligence,  vigor  or  enterprise,  the  Mexicans  are  far  inferior 
to,  Anglo-Americans,  or  any  class  of  Europeans.  For  the 
most  part  they  are  small  in  stature  and  of  feeble  frames. 

They  are  mostly  uneducated  in  letters,  and  without  ambition 
to  excel  in  any  of  the  arts  or  accomplishments  of  civilized 
life.  Most  of  them  are  expert  horsemen,  and  skilful  in  throw- 
ing the  lazo  or  noose  by  which  to  catch  wild  horses  or  cattle. 
They  are  also  skilful  herdsmen  and  make  useful  laborers  in 
taking  care  of  cattle.  In  their  habits  they  are  idle  and  averse 
to  exertion,  choosing  rather  to  endure  cold  and  wet,  than  by 
industry  to  erect  comfortable  cabins.  In  many  respects  they 
seem  to  resemble  the  savages,  from  whom  most  of  them  are 
descendants,  and  the  changes  are  not  always  in  their  favor. 

As  soldiers  they  are  regarded  by  the  Texians  as  being 
cowardly  and  incompetent,  beyond  any  other  professedly 
civilized  people.  Though  perhaps  superior  in  skill  and  energy 
to  the  Camanches,  and  others  of  the  more  uncivilized  Indians, 
they  are  thought  to  be  less  effective  by  far  than  the  Cherokees. 
Apparently  degraded  in  their  own  estimation,  and  treated  by 
their  wealthy  countrymen  as  menials,  they  are  destitute  of  the 
high  moral  qualities  requisite  to  produce  elevation  or  energy 
of  character,  or  even  to  preserve  them  from  degrading  vices. 
Hence  in  general  their  morals  are  low  and  debased  in  every 
respect,  and  licentiousness  is  scarcely  thought  worthy  of 
rebuke. 

To  this  account  however  there  are  occasional  and  highly 
honorable  exceptions.  Among  them  are  some  individuals  of 
intelligence,  literature,  refinement  and  high  sentiments  of  in- 
tegrity and  honor.  These  are  composed  of  the  aristocratic 
few,  who,  possessing  wealth  and  power,  seem  willing  to  per- 
petuate these  privileges  in  their  own  families,  and  therefore 
take  little  or  no  pains  to  disseminate  intelligence  or  education 
among  the  people.  The  language  spoken  by  these  people  is 
a  corrupt  Spanish,  altogether  unlike  the  pure  Castilian,  from 


228  EMIGRANTS. 

which  it  differs  as  far  as  does  the  rude  dialect  of  a  plantation 
negro  from  the  style  of  Addison.  So  far  as  Texas  is  con- 
cerned, the  English  language  will  evidently  soon  supersede 
all  others.  In  this  the  business  of  the  courts  is  transacted,  in 
this  the  statutes  and  debates  of  congress  are  exhibited,  and  in 
this  the  newspapers  are  published.  In  this  language  too  a 
very  large  portion  of  the  population  exclusively  converse,  and 
have  their  children  instructed.  These  little  remains  of  Mexi- 
can people,  habits  and  language,  will  therefore  soon  be  swal- 
lowed up  and  lost,  and  the  Anglo-Texians  give  character  and 
complexion  to  the  whole  nation. 

A  few  European  emigrants  also  mingle  with  the  settlers, 
and  in  some  few  places  are  congregated  in  little  groups  by 
themselves.  They  are  mostly  from  England  and  Ireland,  and 
a  few  from  Germany.  Of  the  former  considerable  numbers 
are  constantly  arriving,  and  most  of  them  passing  into  the  in- 
terior to  form  settlements  for  purposes  of  agriculture.  Some 
of  these  are  shepherds,  and  are  bringing  with  them  large 
flocks  of  some  of  the  finest  wooled  sheep  of  Great  Britain. 

Near  the  south  western  portion  of  Texas,  the  region  called 
San  Patricio  or  St.  Patrick,  formerly  contained  a  considerable 
body  of  Irish  emigrants.  They  became  much  scattered  by  the 
Mexican  invasion,  but  have  now  mostly  returned.  This  large 
and  fertile  section  of  Texas  must  soon  become  important  for 
numbers,  and  the  value  of  its  rich  productions  of  sugar,  cotton 
and  tropical  fruits. 

Where  English,  Irish  or  German  settlements  have  been 
formed,  the  habits,  language  and  manners  brought  with  them 
are  still  prevalent  and  distinctly  visible.  Not  only  their  lan- 
guage, but  their  dress,  their  dwellings  and  utensils,  bear  the 
marks  of  their  origin.  All  these  however  united,  with  a  very 
few  from  France  and  other  countries,  make  but  a  small 
proportion  of  the  people.  The  United  States  is  the  parent  of 
almost  the  whole  population  of  Texas.  All  parts  of  that  ex- 


VARIETY    AND    CHARACTER    OF    THE    SETTLERS.        229 

tensive  country  have  sent  their  contributions  to  assist  in  mak- 
ing up  the  mass  of  the  young  empire,  which  though  yet  but 
in  the  cradle,  is  destined  to  become  a  power  to  be  respected 
among  the  mighty  ones  of  the  earth. 

Here  are  met  the  descendants  of  the  pilgrims,  shoots  from 
the  germ  planted  by  Holland  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  the 
hunters  of  Kentucky,  the  Virginian  stock  originating  with  the 
cavaliers,  and  many  a  scion  from  the  ancient  Huguenots  who 
settled  in  South  Carolina.  On  this  soil  they  meet  as  friends, 
forgetting,  in  their  common  name  of  Texian,  all  their  local 
feelings,  and  making  no  other  distinctions  than  grow  out  of 
character  and  talents.  True,  the  sons  of  Virginia  may  some- 
times boast  of  the  greatness  of  the  ancient  Dominion,  and  the 
New  Englander  of  the  pious  patriotism  of  his  fathers  in  days 
of  stern  controversy  for  liberty  and  independence ;  but  no 
rival  feelings  are  awakened.  All  descended  from  sires  who 
had  fought  for  liberty  in  other  fields,  they  here  shewed  that 
they  had  not  forgot  these  lessons  of  firmness  and  heroic  ardor 
ia  the  same  cause. 

Still,  made  up  of  such  motly  materials,  which  has  not  had 
time  to  coalesce  and  unite  into  a  homogeneous  whole,  no  ge- 
neral and  uniform  character  can  be  ascribed  to  the  people  of 
Texas.  The  new  settler  in  mingling  with  his  fellows,  wit- 
nessing no  common  or  uniform  manners,  customs  or  language, 
sees  no  pattern  to  which  he  may  conform,  and  hence  each 
one  retains  his  own  previously  formed  habits,  nor  even  thinks 
of  adopting  any  model. 

In  the  intercourse  of  the  people  with  each  other  and  with 
strangers,  there  is  an  observable  freedom  and  frankness  which 
makes  one  feel  that  he  is  welcome,  while  no  formal  or  feigned 
courtesy  leads  to  distrust  the  sincerity  of  the  reception.  If  in 
all  this  there  mingle  some  want  of  the  finished  polish  of  the 
courtier,  or  sweet  toned  kindness  of  expression,  it  will  be 
found  to  arise  from  the  plain  simplicity  of  truth  and  disregard 
of  form  where  substance  is  more  valuable, 

2C 


230  tTNJTTST    REFLECTIONS    ON    TEXAS. 

It  has  been  objected  to  Texas  that  it  was  the  common  re- 
ceptacle of  thieves,  murderers  and  criminals  of  every  descrip- 
tion, who  could  escape  from  justice  in  the  United  States. 
Sometimes  persons  have  insinuated  that  such  characters 
formed  the  mass  of  the  population.  Such  intimations  how- 
ever emanate  only  from  those  who  have  no  personal  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  or  else  intentionally  misrepresent  it. 

That  fugitives  from  justice  have  frequently  made  this  coun- 
try their  city  of  refuge  is  undoubtedly  true ;  but  that  they  are 
numerous  or  possess  influence  here  is  entirely  a  mistake.  It 
would  be  difficult  for  a  felon  here  to  avoid  becoming  known, 
and  if  known  his  crime  would  render  him  an  object  of  scorn 
and  contempt  to  the  community.  Shrinking  from  society  he 
•would  be  known  to  few,  and  even  to  them  it  would  be  his 
privilege  to  be  unknown.  But  to  what  new  and  frontier  set- 
tlement will  not  this  same  objection  apply  as  well  as  to  Texas  ? 
Was  not  such  the  fact  in  relation  to  Ohio  ?  Indiana  ?  Illinois  ? 
Arkansas  ?  and  Louisiana  ?  These  are  difficulties  incident 
to  every  new  country,  and  it  is  believed  are  as  little  felt  in 
Texas  as  in  almost  any  other  new  state.  Certainly  the  Ca- 
nadas,  and  other  British  colonies,  have  received  more  of  such 
colonists  by  far  than  Texas  ever  has 

The  emigrant  removing  to  this  republic,  and  the  visiter  who 
mingles  with  respectable  society,  will  soon  perceive  that 
among  the  people  are  numbered  a  fair  proportion  of  indus- 
•  trious,  respectable  and  intelligent  persons,  whose  deportment 
and  conversation  are  marked  by  dignity  and  good  sense.  Nor 
>vill  highly  intellectual  and  literary  men  be  found  lobe  scarce. 
Among  men  of  the  different  professions,  are  many  not  only 
skilled  in  their  own  particular  departments,  but  well  versed  in 
the  broader  fields  of  general  literature  and  science.  A  gen- 
tleman at  the  seat  of  government,  the  last  winter,  observed, 
that  in  the  republic  he  found  alumni  of  half  the  colleges  in  the 
United  States. 

It  is  not  to  be  denied  however,  that  a  large  proportion  of 


EDUCATION    AND    HABITS.  231 

the  settlers  in  the  country  are  composed  of  the  more  unlet- 
tered parts  of  mankind.  Most  of  them  have  received  some 
education,  enough  to  enable  to  keep  their  own  accounts  in  one 
manner  or  another.  Still  there  are  very  many  of  them  much 
more  fond  of  spending  a  leisure  hour  in  the  forest  with  dogs 
and  gun,  than  employing  it  in  reading  the  most  interesting 
book.  Nor  is  this  fact  singular.  Long  accustomed  to  reside 
far  from  towns  and  places  where  books  can  be  obtained,  and 
by  practice  becoming  skilled  to  bring  down  the  deer  or  bear 
with  the  trusted  rifle,  he  acquires  a  taste  for  the  sport,  while 
his  former  habits  of  reading  and  thought  have  been  broken  up 
and  forgotten.  In  this  manner  the  character  and  skill  of  many 
a  skilful  and  successful  scout  in  Indian  warfare  has  been 
formed,  and  rendered  effective  in  repelling  these  foes  and  pro- 
tecting the  firesides  of  the  settlers.  In  Texas,  the  dextrous 
hunter  and  the  Indian  fighter  have  become  almost  synony- 
mous terms.  The  frequent  incursions  of  the  savages  to  steal 
cattle  and  horses,  and  wherever  they  were  not  too  well  de- 
fended, to  rob  houses  and  murder  the  inhabitants,  rendered 
almost  the  whole  population  familiar  with  the  natives,  their 
haunts  and  modes  of  proceeding.  Under  these  circumstances, 
the  sagacious  and  active  hunter  soon  found  it  expedient  to 
acquire  skill  in  pursuit  of  the  savage,  as  well  as  in  taking  his 
game.  To  this  he  would  moreover  be  incited  by  the  favor 
and  applause  freely  awarded  to  the  brave  and  successful  pro- 
tector of  female  weakness  and  helpless  infancy. 

In  Indian  warfare  too,  as  in  all  difficult  and  dangerous  avo- 
cations, native  character  shines  out,  and  courage  united  with 
skill  and  generosity  find  ample  opportunities  for  displaying 
their  worth.  In  few* duties  of  the  soldier  is  there  less  pros- 
pect of  reward,  or  of  fame  than  in  the  pursuit  of  the  wary  and 
crafty  savage  through  the  forest.  Yet  in  this  task,  though  he 
be  but  a  traveller  in  that  section  of  country,  will  the  practised 
enemy  of  the  red  man  volunteer  in  order  to  avenge  some  deed 
of  blood,  or  rescue  from  captivity  some  one  to  him  unknown, 


232  TEXIAN    HUNTER&. 

Confident  of  his  skill  to  catch  and  keep  the  trail  of  the  savage 
foe,  fearless  of  surprisal  from  the  objects  of  pursuit,  and  from 
long  habit  conscious  of  the  excellence  of  his  piece  and  the 
certainty  of  his  aim,  he  threads  the  thickets,  wades  the 
streams,  watching  every  impression  upon  the  sand,  either  in 
or  near  the  water,  and  every  twig  and  tuft,  for  marks  of  Indian 
foot-prints,  traverses  the  prairies  and  endures  fatigue,  hunger 
and  cold ;  and  on  overtaking  the  enemy,  at  almost  any  odds, 
attacks,  defeats  and  captivates  or  kills  him,  and  returns,  ask- 
ing no  other  reward  than  the  spontaneous  feelings  of  the 
grateful  hearts  of  those  who  had  suffered  from  the  predatory 
inroad  of  these  enemies  of  all  white  mea.  Some  of  these 
too  have,  by  their  success  and  capacity,  been  raised  to  stations 
of  high  military  command,  and  proved  themselves  no  less  able 
and  skilful  in  conducting  bodies  of  troops  to  victory,  than  little 
companies  of  settlers  to  successful  contests  with  roving  par- 
ties of  Iixlians. 

Though  at  their  homes  and  in  the  forest,  these  hunter  war- 
riors are  generally  clad  in  buckskin  pantaloons  and  hunting 
shirts,  many  of  them  have  been  familiar  with  fine  garments, 
and  when  at  court  or  peblic  worship,  appear  in  very  respec- 
table apparel.  Some  of  them  are  professional  men  or  planters 
of  wealth,  and  on  emergency  can  appear  with  credit  among 
the  politest  circles  of  the  Atlantic  cities.  Drawn  together  by 
common  interests  and  common  dangers,  the  learned,  polite  and 
wealthy,  are  not  in  their  ordinary  dress  and  appearance,  very 
different  from  their  poorer  and  less  iastructed  neighbors. 
They  are  also  on  terms  of  familiarity,  because  they  have  to- 
gether gathered  round  the  camp  fire  in  times  of  storm  and 
cold,  and  together  fought  the  Mexicans  and  red  men  of  the 
forest.  Equality  in  their  intercourse  together  is  here  very 
practically  exemplified.  "  I  served  with  you  at  the  surrender 
of  Bexar;  I  was  with  you  in  the  expedition  against  the  In- 
dians on  the  upper  Brazos ;  I  fought  with  you  at  San  Jacinto," 
cancels  all  distinctions,,  and  tjie  highest  officer  is  at  once  on 


LABOUR  AND  INDUSTRY  RESPECTED.         233 

terms  of  perfect  equality  with  the  poorest  individual  who  had 
ever  been  his  companion  in  arms,  and  shared  the  danger  and 
sufferings  of  a  Texian  tentless  campaign. 

Very  few  of  the  inhabitants  of  Texas,  with  the  exception 
of  their  lands  which  are  not  yet  available,  are  in  possession 
of  wealth  or  even  of  enough  to  preserve  them  from  early  want, 
except  through  the  avails  of  their  constant  exertions.  As  a 
consequence  of  this  fact,  though  there  are  a  few  planters  with 
large  families  of  servants,  nearly  every  man  is  a  laborer  in 
some  employment  with  his  own  hands.  There  is  no  rich  and 
lordly  class,  who,  despising  industry  and  labor,  treat  all  who 
are  dependant  upon  the  avails  of  business  for  support,  with 
contempt.  Hence  labor  and  industry  are  respectable  among 
all  classes,  except  a  very  few  worthless  characters  that  lounge 
about  the  towns,  and  aim  by  gambling  and  fraud  to  filch  from 
the  young  and  inexperienced  the  fruits  of  their  own  or  their 
parents'  industry.  This  is  a  most  fortunate  circumstance,  and 
tends  greatly  to  the  prosperity  and  productiveness  of  the  coun- 
try. May  this  long  be  the  fact,  and  may  honest  industry  be 
ever  honored  in  this  favored  land. 

There  are  a  considerable  number  of  negro  slaves  in  this 
country,  and  their  labor  is  thought  to  be  profitable.  The  prin- 
cipal reason  for  this  opinion  probably  is  that  land  is  so  cheap, 
and  cropping  so  profitable,  that  very  few  even  poor  men  con- 
sent to  be  hired,  preferring  to  work  their  own  lands.  Owing 
to  these  circumstances  no  one  could  cultivate  a  large  planta^ 
tion  by  free  labor.  This  evil  will  however  be  gradually 
removed  by  the  continued  immigration  of  settlers  into  the 
country.  Slaves  are  not  sufficiently  numerous  to  perform 
even  a  small  fraction  of  the  labor  of  the  country,  and  conse- 
quently, labor  so  far  from  being  regarded  as  improper  or  dis» 
graceful  for  freemen,  that  it  is  honorable  in  the  eyes  of  the 
whole  community. 

The  intelligent  farmer,  who  by  the  labor  of  his  own  hands 
and  the  hands  of  his  children,  cultivates  his  land,  is  here  a 

20* 


234  CHARACTER    OF    TEXIAN    FEMALES. 

man  of  dignity,  and  looked  upon  with  as  much  respect  as  h* 
whose  negroes  do  his  work,  while  he  and  his  children  are 
idle. 

What  has  been  said  of  the  other  sex,  will  sufficiently  in* 
form  the  intelligent  reader  of  the  character  and  habits  of  the 
females.  A  very  large  share  of  them  in  person  perform  the 
duties  of  the  household,  in  preparing  and  cooking  food,  attend- 
ing to  the  dairy,  preserving  cleanliness,  and  taking  charge  of 
clothing,  in  addition  to  the  cares  of  the  nursery.  Compara- 
tively few  of  them  have  received  the  advantages  of  a  refined 
education,  but  they  are  well  versed  in  all  that  regards  good 
housewifery,  which,  with  good  sense,  and  a  courage  to  despise 
imaginary  dangers,  constitute  some  of  the  most  practical  virtues 
of  a  female  pioneer  of  Texas.  Not  a  few  of  these,  and  some 
-whose  minds  have  received  a  much  more  exalted  and  refined 
impulse,  are  more  disposed  to  be  useful  than  showy,  have  ren- 
dered themselves  quite  familiar  with  the  use  of  fire-arms,  with 
which  upon  occasion  they  have  supplied  themselves  and  fami- 
lies with  necessary  provisions. 

Aware,  though  honored  and  cherished  with  a  tenderness 
and  affection  unsurpassed  in  any  part  of  the  world,  that  widow- 
hood and  other  disasters  might  befall  them,  they  have  with  an 
energy  worthy  of  the  daughters  of  Sparta,  met  dangers,  fought 
savages,  encountered  and  overcome  difficulties,  and  sustained 
their  families  in  a  manner,  of  which,  under  other  circumstances, 
they  would  not  have  thought  themselves  capable.  In  the 
towns  there  are  many  ladies,  whose  taste,  education  and  man- 
ners, would  grace  any  saloon  in  any  country. 

The  furniture  of  most  of  the  houses  in  Texas  is  of  the 
plainest  kind  that  could  be  constructed  on  the  spot.  The 
t  ibles  are  made  of  such  boards  as  can  be  obtained,  and  are 
put  together  by  a  mechanic,  if  one  be  at  hand,  otherwise  by 
the  hands  of  the  settler  himself.  Chairs  are  framed  with 
round  posts  and  cross  pieces,  and  then  covered  with  the  raw 
hides  of  deer,  beeves,  etc.  Other  furniture  is  usually  of  simi- 


DESCRIPTION    OF    AN    INN, 

lar  construction,  except  the  beds,  which  for  the  most  part  are 
mattresses  of  long  moss,  corn  husks,  or  coarse  prairie  hay, 
A  feather  bed  is  an  uncommon  luxury  in  the  new  republic. 

The  houses  in  towns  are  some  of  them  well  built  of  wood  y 
brick  or  stone  houses  are  very  uncommon.  Most  of  them 
however  are  merely  covered  with  weather  boards,  and  remaia 
unceiled  and  unplastered.  Some  of  them  of  considerable  size, 
used  as  boarding  houses,  are  without  chimneys,  being  warmed 
by  stoves  whose  pipes  extend  quite  through  the  roof.  In  the 
country  they  are  for  the  most  part  constructed  of  logs,  much , 
like  the  log  houses  common  in  new  countries  at  the  north,  but 
they  are  not  near  so  well  guarded  against  cold  weather.  At 
one  house  of  entertainment  kept  by  a  lady,,  and  which  had 
stood  for  ten  years,  a  guest  could  discover  but  one  place  for  a 
window,  which  was  without  glass  or  even  sash.  Between 
the  logs  no  plastering  had  ever  been  done,  and  between  the 
top  of  the  logs  and  the  roof  was  an  open  space  on  both  sides 
of  the  house,  and  its  whole  length  of  about  one  foot  and  a  half 
wide.  At  the  end  next  the  chimney  the  weather  boarding 
was  gone  for  more  than  two  feet  in  width.  Supper  was  eaten 
by  fire  light,  as  the  wind  would  not  permit  a  lamp  to  burn. 
From  no  expression  of  the  lady  or  her  family,  did  it  appear 
that  a  better  house  was  desirable.  So  mild  is  the  climate  that 
such  things  are  not  objects  of  anxiety.  Occasionally  however^ 
especially  in  the  older  settlements,  there  are  comfortable 
framed  houses,  and  some  few  of  brick.  In  these  are  also 
from  time  to  time  found  handsome  furniture,  such  as  pianos^ 
armoirs,  bureaus,  sofas  and  the  like.  The  poorness  of  their 
houses,  or  the  simplicity  of  the  furniture  is  no  ground  of  com-* 
plaint  among  even  the  ladies  of  Texas. 

Justice  demands  that  before  closing  our  remarks  upon  the 
society  and  manners  of  Texas,  we  should  acknowledge  that 
there  are  several  things  to  deplore.  One  of  these  is  a  very 
prevalent  habit  of  profane  swearing.  This  low  and  senseless 
vice>  which  has  not  the  form  of  an  excuse,  being  entirely 


236  VICES    PREVALENT    IN    TEXAS. 

without  temptation,  is  practised  by  high  and  low,  senators 
and  judges,  officers  and  citizens,  masters  and  their  negro  ser- 
vants. Whence  such  a  general  and  extended  practice  of  such 
a  vice  originated  would  be  difficult  to  solve,  but  for  the  known 
consequences  attendant  upon  a  state  of  war.  How  men  of 
intelligence  and  talents  are  induced  to  adopt  it  is  utterly  unac- 
countable, unless  we  admit  that  even  wise  men  have  a  strong 
propensity  to  foolishness.  It  is  matter  of  gratification  that 
this  practice  is  not  universal,  many  persons  of  the  first  talents 
and  standing  in  the  republic  being,  as  gentlemen  and  consci- 
entious moralists,  entirely  free  from  it. 

Another  very  prevailing  practice  is  the  drinking  of  ardent 
spirits.  As  yet  temperance  societies  have  made  but  compa- 
ratively little  progress  in  this  republic.  Several  have  been 
established,  and  are  shedding  around  them  a  happy  influence. 
Still  the  work  is  but  begun.  The  friends  of  temperance,  it  is 
presumed,  will  not  pause  in  their  course  till  the  monster's 
power  is  curbed  and  his  deadly  influence  broken.  Gambling 
in  one  or  two  places,  is  said  to  be  in  fearful  progress. 

These  and  some  other  vices,  more  or  less  prevalent  in  all 
towns,  call  for  the  wise  action  of  the  legislature,  city  councils 
and  courts  of  justice.  With  the  co-operation  of  the  people, 
these  may  do  much  towards  eradicating  such  noxious  weeds 
from  society.  It  is  believed  however,  that  in  no  part  of  the 
United  States  is  there  less  pilfering  and  stealing  than  in 
Texas.  Even  in  the  towns  there  seems  to  be  no  apprehen- 
sion that  property  will  be  stolen.  An  office  in  Houston,  con- 
taining two  valuable  libraries  and  many  articles  of  value,  was 
habitually  left  unlocked  by  the  owner,  and  nothing  for  many 
months  known  to  be  stolen. 

Viewed  as  a  whole,  the  manners  and  morals  of  Texas 
appear  to  be  as  free  from  stain  as  other  new  countries,  where 
the  settlements  are  made  promiscuously  from  all  quarters,  and 
especially  where  the  effects  of  war  and  the  presence  of  sol- 
diers are  experienced,  The  defects  and  vices  of  the  people 


NEWSPAPERS.  ^237 

are  those  which  are  common  to  all  new  settlements^  and  such 
as  uniformly  diminish  as  population  and  society  advance. 
The  presence  and  influence  of  good  men  will  check  profane- 
ness  and  drinking,  and  the  power  of  the  gospel  of  Jesus, 
attended  by  its  genial  influences,  will,  it  is  fondly  trusted,  in 
due  season  put  these  and  kindred  vices  to  shame. 

That  the  Texians  are  a  reading  people  is  manifested  by  the 
fact  that  there  are  now  12  newspapers  published  in  the  re- 
public. One  of  these  is  a  daily  paper  published  at  Houston, 
and  one  or  two  others  are,  during  the  sessions  of  Congress,, 
semi-weekly  ones.  In  a  population  so  small,  and  with  such, 
imperfect  post  routes,  to  sustain  so  many  papers  must  be  a,ck 
mitted  to  be  an  astonishing  circumstance.. 


238  RELIGION. 


RELIGION,    EDUCATION, 


AND 


SCHOOLS. 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 


Present  favorable  religious  position  of  Texas. — Religious  intolerance  while 
under  the  Mexican  despotism. — The  monkish  farce  of  re-marrying — its 
infamous  tendencies  — Romanism  and  priestcraft  no  longer  tolerated. — 
Increase  of  churches. — De  Kalb  College. — Unanimity  of  the  different 
denominations. — Discussion  consequent  upon  religious  liberty. — Sabbath 
schools.— Large  bequests  of  land  for  the  endowment  of  schools,  etc. 

IN  direct  connection  with  the  morals  of  a  people,  from  which 
indeed  it  cannot  be  separated  without  their  utter  destruction, 
we  would  speak  of  religion.  By  this  we  would  be  understood 
to  mean  the  Christian  religion,  and  that  exclusively. 

According  to  the  constitution  of  Texas,  as  in  the  United 
States,  no  religious  establishment  can  ever  exist  in  this  coun- 
try, nor  any  religious  test  be  required  as  a  qualification  for 
office.  Every  one  is  at  full  liberty  to  worship  God  according 
to  his  own  conscience,  and  no  one  is  permitted  to  interfere 
with  that  sacred  and  inestimable  privilege.  No  tithes  or  other 
ecclesiastical  taxes  are  imposed,  and  no  man  can  be  required 
to  pay  money,  goods,  services  or  other  thing,  for  churches, 
church  privileges  or  claims,  but  according  to  his  own  consent 
and  contract. 


INTOLERANCE    OF    MEXICAN    LAWS.  239 

Such  a  state  of  things  has  been  denominated  the  being  with- 
out a  religion.  So  far  is  this  however  from  being  true,  that  it 
furnishes  the  very  best  security  for  the  support  and  purity  of 
true  religion,  that  ever  was  adopted  by  political  bodies.  It  is 
true,  that  in  Texas  and  the  United  States,  religion  depends 
not  upon  the  state  nor  its  laws  for  its  existence  or  support, 
and  is  therefore  also  free  from  the  pollutions  and  impositions 
which  interest  or  ambition  in  political  men,  would  intrude 
upon  her.  Left  free  from  the  authority  of  men,  and  resting 
on  God  through  his  word  for  support  and  doctrine,  she  stands 
forth  in  native  simplicity,  and  will,  whenever  assailed,  be 
found  like  the  sling  and  stones  of  the  youthful  David,  suffi- 
cient for  every  exigency.  Did  the  blessed  religion  of  the 
gospel  need  the  strong  arm  of  human  government  to  sustain  it 
against  the  craft  and  power  of  its  enemies,  we  might  well 
doubt  its  divine  origin.  We  are  thence  prepared  to  say  to  all 
its  enemies,  "  it  is  of  the  Lord  and  ye  cannot  overthrow  it." 

It  is  not  our  purpose  however  to  argue  this  question  with 
the  advocates  for  an  establishment,  more  than  its  truth  with 
infidels.  But  we  are  ready  to  render  cordial  thanks  to  God, 
that  in  Texas  also  religion  is  untrammeled  by  the  state. 

Such  was  not  the  religious  freedom  of  Texas  while  one  of 
the  states  of  Mexico.  By  an  article  in  the  constitution  of  that 
misnamed  republic,  the  Roman  Catholick  religion  was  de- 
clared to  be  established,  and  that  no  other  should  be  tolerated. 
The  following  is  sub-section  third  of  the  first  title  of  the  con- 
stitution of  Mexico. 

"  3.  The  religion  of  the  Mexican  nation  is,  and  will  be  per- 
petually, the  Roman  Catholick  Apostolick.  The  nation  will 
protect  it  by  wise  and  just  laws,  and  prohibit  the  exercise  of 
any  other  whatever." 

A  professedly  Christian  and  protestant  female  writer,  who 
professes  great  attachment  to  religious  freedom,  in  speaking 
of  this  odious  and  tyrannical  rescript,  and  the  submission  to  it 
by  the  Texian  colonists,  says,  "  They  accepted  lands  frolfi  the 


240  MONKISH    MARRIAGE    MOCKERY, 

Mexican  government  on  condition  of  becoming  nominal  catho- 
lics, and  had  sense  enough  not  to  quarrel  about  forms  and 
technics.  *  *  *  *  The  introduction  of  protestant  preachers 
was  contrary  to  law,  and  had  it  not  been  so,  the  contests  of 
sectarians  would  have  destroyed  the  country." 

How  far  this  was  to  be  merely  nominal,  may  be  in  part  un- 
derstood by  some  facts  told  by  the  same  writer  on  a  subse- 
quent page.  Her  words  are  "  once  or  twice  the  farce  was 
practised  upon  them  of  a  Mexican  padre  going  the  rounds  of 
the  colonists  to  unite  in  lawful  wedlock  young  couples,  with 
blooming  families  to  assist  at  the  nuptials,  proclaiming  his  in- 
fallible decree,  that  no  other  form  of  marriage  was  sanctioned 
by  high  Heaven."  She  adds  that  the  colonists  usually  made 
a  frolic  of  it,  while  the  priest  carried  off  considerable  sums 
in  the  form  of  fees. 

Yet  this  was  something  merely  nominal ;  matter  of  form 
and  technicality.  A  slight  matter  of  form  indeed,  that  pro- 
nounces the  former  married  state  of  the  people  pollution,  and 
their  "  blooming  families "  children  of  shame.  A  formality 
which  from  each  family  took  the  small  sum  of  fifteen  dollars 
in  gold  for  branding  them  and  their  children  with  degradation 
and  infamy. 

A  matter  of  mere  form  which  required  them  to  abjure  their 
faith,  bow  down  before  the  host  or  a  crucifix,  and  thus  worship 
a  piece  of  metal  or  of  paste.  Such  matters  of  form  as  would 
have  subjected  a  Jew  in  the  purest  days  of  Israel  to  death  for 
a  violation  of  the  second  commandment.  Yet  all  this  was 
well,  wise,  prudent  and  necessary  to  preserve  the  country 
from  being  destroyed  by  those  destructive  creatures  "  protest- 
ant  preachers  ! ! ! 

How  these  protestant  preachers  would  have  conducted 
their  wordy  contests  so  as  to  have  destroyed  the  whole  coun- 
try, she  does  not  inform  us.  Is  it  not  a  great  pity  these  kind 
friends  would  not  again  compel  poor  suffering  Texas  to  re- 
ceive the  dogmas,  superstition  and  idolatry,  priests  and  all,  of 


CAUSES  OF  THE  REVOLUTION  241 

Romanism,  and  thus  prevent  the  sad  effects  of  the  labors  of 
protestant  preachers,  with  the  bibles,  schools  and  colleges, 
which  threaten  the  country  with  such  awful  ruin  ! 

The  state  of  Coahuila  and  Texas  enacted  a  statute  annull- 
ing this  part  of  the  Mexican  constitution  ;  but  if  they  re- 
mained a  part  of  Mexico  this  statute  was  of  course  void,  as 
being  contrary  to  the  general  constitution.  Santa  Anna  in 
enforcing  his  plan  of  central  government,  urged  rigidly  this 
article  of  that  instrument  wherever  his  power  extended. 
Thus,  in  violation  of  the  constitution  he  had  sworn  to  obey,  in 
contempt  of  the  public  feeling  and  all  the  inalienable  rights  of 
man,  he  attempted  to  compel  the  Texians  by  an  armed  force 
to  submit  to  a  military  and  religious  despotism,  and  to  entail 
the  same  upon  their  children  after  them. 

For  resistance  to  such  oppression  and  violence,  and  for 
throwing  off  the  yoke  of  this  faithless  and  cruel  murderer, 
and  the  inquisitorial  power  of  the  priests,  self-styled  pro- 
testant writers  in  the  United  States  have  heaped  upon  Texas 
and  her  sons  every  epithet  of  scorn  and  contempt  which 
could  properly  be  applied  to  the  vilest  plunderers  and  assas- 
sins. For  this  they  have  been  denounced  as  rebels,  pirates 
and  banditti,  even  by  the  professed  lovers  of  liberty  and  the 
protestant  religion. 

If  the  most  flagrant  usurpation  of  power,  the  wanton  tramp- 
ling down  of  chartered  rights,  the  enforcing  of  lawless  power 
by  armed  mercenaries,  the  most  cruel  tyranny,  and  the  depri- 
vation of  all  freedom  of  conscience,  will  not  justify  the  with- 
drawal of  allegiance,  can  any  events  transpire  that  will  do  so  ? 
If  all  these  cannot  justify  the  course  of  the  citizens  of  this 
republic,  is  not  all  resistance  to  arbitrary  power  a  crime  ? 
And  is  it  not  a  grievous  offence  against  God  to  desire  liberty  ? 
Whatever  the  advocates  of  unlimited  authority  may  say  in 
Mexico,  or  their  apologists  in  the  United  States  may  pretend, 
Texians  may  thankfully  rejoice,  that,  favored  by  a  good  Pro- 

21 


242  FRUITS    OF    THE    REVOLUTION. 

•vidence,  tlieir  independence  of  Mexico  and  religious  despotism 
is  ACHIEVED,  and  no  sophistry  of  pretended  philanthropists,  or 
power  of  Mexico  can*  deprive  them  of  it. 

Freed  from  the  miserable  thraldom  of  religious  tyranny,  and 
secured  in  the  enjoyment  of  entire  ecclesiastical  liberty,  the 
friends  of  religion  and  morals  have  early  begun  to  take  mea- 
sures for  securing  to  themselves  and  posterity  the  inestimable 
blessings  of  the  gospel,  and  its  natural  concomitant,  education 
end  intelligence.  Already  have  they  established  a  number  of 
churches  of  different  denominations,  secured  the  labors  of  a 
number  of  devoted  and  faithful  ministers,  and  in  connection 
•with  several  of  them  established  seminaries  of  learning,  which 
are  often  taught  by  these  ministers  in  person. 

At  Independence,  on  the  Brazos,  at  Matagorda,  and  at  Vic- 
toria, are  such  schools,  all  taught  by  learned  and  able  minis- 
ters, whose  labors,  both  in  the  gospel  and  in  literature,  give 
pleasing  promise  of  lasting  usefulness  to  the  country.  Several 
other  schools  of  similar  character  exist  in  different  sections  of 
the  country.  At  Rutersville,  two  literary  institutions  have 
been  incorporated  by  congress,  and  are  already  in  operation, 
under  the  direction  of  an  able  and  efficient  minister  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  church.  Their  prospects  for  usefulness 
and  permanent  success  are  fair  and  cheering.  In  eastern 
Texas  "a  collegiate  institution  has  been  incorporated,  called 
De  Kalb  college.  This,  it  is  understood,  is  also  intended  to 
be  a  Christian  institution,  and  to  be  under  the  direction  of  one 
minister  of  the  gospel  or  more.  Besides  these  ministers  thus 
engaged  in  literary  pursuits,  there  are  a  number  more  who  are 
engaged  solely  in  the  work  of  the  sacred  ministry.  These 
are  for  the  most  part,  but  not  wholly,  resident  in  towns.  They 
belong  to  different  denominations,  each  of  which,  without  in- 
terfering with  others,  takes  its  own  method  of  disseminating 
its  doctrines,  and  sustaining  the  influence  of  the  gospel.  New 
churches  are  from  time  to  time  organised,  and  missionaries 
.are  seat  to  supply  them  with  the  means  of  grace. 


RELIGIOUS    DISCUSSION.  243 

Probably  few  new  countries  of  the  same  amount  of  popula- 
tion, have  been  more  favored  by  the  number  and  capacity  of 
ministers  than  Texas,  and  yet  from  various  parts  of  it  the  cry 
is  heard,  "  Come  and  help  us."  These  statements  fully  dis- 
close the  fact  that  the  people  in  a  good  degree  appreciate  the 
blessings  of  the  gospel,  and  hence  desire  to  see  the  churches 
prosper. 

In  nearly  all  the  most  considerable  towns,  the  several  deno- 
minations are  found  mingled  together ;  their  preachers  meet, 
take  part  together  in  the  same  meetings,  and  mutually  inter- 
change in  the  use  of  the  same  house  and  pulpit.  Yet  none  of 
the  evils  so  destructive  of  the  country  as  the  afore-mentioned 
writer  would  represent,  are  found  to  accrue.  Peace,  quiet- 
ness, kindness  and  good-will,  subsist  between  them  all.  Is 
not  then  the  suggestion  so  often  made,  that  the  controversies 
of  sectarians  do  more  mischief  than  ignorance  and  intolerance 
together,  a  misrepresentation  of  facts  ?  Though  the  discus- 
sions between  men  of  different  tenets,  may  sometimes  be  con- 
ducted with  an  improper  spirit,  the  evil  is  of  a  very  local  and 
temporary  character,  while  the  light  and  knowledge  diffused 
are  permanent  and  continually  extending.  Experience,  if 
nothing  else,  should  shew  these  pretenders  to  exclusive  love 
of  liberality  and  freedom,  that  the  evils  they  mourn  over  exist 
only  in  their  own  diseased  imaginations.  True  religious 
liberty  implies  the  right  freely  to  discuss  religious  tenets,  and 
freely  to  shew  the  errors  and  mistakes  of  the  theories  we 
oppose  ;  and  when  the  over  anxious  claimants  of  our  charity 
denounce  as  wrong,  the  exposure  of  their  errors,  there  is 
much  reason  to  fear  that  other  causes  than  love  of  liberty  ex- 
cites their  opposition  to  controversy  and  uncharitableness. 
Of  little  value  indeed  would  religious  liberty  be,  which  would 
require  us  to  be  indifferent  to  the  truth  or  falsehood  of  any 
scheme  of  religion  proposed  to  our  acceptance.  Because,  in 
religious  things  men  are  here  entirely  free,  they  are  fully  jus- 


244  RELIGIOUS    INSTITUTIONS. 

tified  by  open,  manly  and  clear  arguments,  to  maintain  the 
true  gospel  they  preach,  and  to  shew  the  fallacy  of  the  infi- 
delity and  heresy  they  oppose. 

In  connection  with  the  preaching  of  the  gospel,  sabbath 
schools,  bible  classes  and  the  like,  are  to  some  extent  exerting 
their  benign  influence  in  this  country.  In  nearly  every  place 
where  the  stated  means  of  grace  are  enjoyed,  sabbath  schools 
are  found  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  in  some  places  where 
the  churches  are  without  preaching,  the  sunday  school  and 
prayer  meeting  in  part  supply  the  defect. 

There  are  several  new  presbyterian  churches  lately  erected 
in  this  country ;  one  of  these  is  at  Galveston,  one  at  Houston, 
and  a  third  at  Austin.  Methodist  churches  also,  it  is  believed, 
have  been  erected  at  several  different  points.  Still  others  are 
in  contemplation,  and  as  the  country  becomes  filled  up,  it  is 
believed  that  it  will  not  be  behind  most  parts  of  the  United 
States,  in  its  attention  to  the  means  of  moral  and  religious  im- 
provement. The  present  state  of  the  infant  churches,  their 
anxious  desire  to  lay  broad  and  deep  foundations  for  eventual 
as  present  usefulness,  the  zeal  and  talents  of  the  ministry,  the 
character,  piety  and  efficiency  of  several  of  the  missionaries 
laboring  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  warrant  the  expec- 
tation that  the  advance  of  true  piety  and  sacred  morality  will 
be  steady  and  progressive. 

The  number  of  churches  which  have  been  organised  in  the 
republic  is  not  exactly  known.  The  Cumberland  Presbyte- 
rians more  than  two  years  since,  organised  a  presbytery.  How 
many  ministers  or  churches  are  included  in  it  cannot  now  be 
stated.  The  Presbyterian  ministers  in  Texas,  in  accordance 
with  a  resolution  of  the  General  Assembly  of  1839,  proposed 
to  unite  themselves  and  churches  in  a  presbytery,  which,  for 
numbers  as  well  as  character,  will  be  highly  respectable. 

On  the  subject  of  religion  then,  as  on  most  others,  may  the 
friends  of  Texas  exclaim,  "  Happy  republic,  happy  daughter 


ENDOWMENT    OF    COLLEGES    AND    SCHOOLS.  245 

of  a  blessed  mother,  like  whom  she  has  cast  off  the  shackles 
of  provincial  government  and  foreign  tyranny,  and  now  exults 
in  the  fulness  of  freedom  and  dawnings  of  physical,  intellec- 
tual and  moral  prosperity.  May  the  influence  of  such  institu- 
tions and  such  results  spread  far,  nor  cease  their  expansion 
till  Mexico,  Guatemala,  and  all  South  America,  disenthralled 
and  illuminated,  shall  taste  the  unalloyed  blessings  of  rational 
liberty  and  pure  Christianity. 

On  the  subject  of  education  and  the  organization  of  schools, 
the  legislators  of  Texas  have  evinced  purposes  as  wise  and 
provident  as  they  are  liberal  and  munificent.  At  the  session 
of  the  congress  of  1838—9,  in  addition  to  several  acts  incorpo- 
rating literary  institutions,  and  making  to  them  large  donations 
of  land,  an  act  was  passed  granting  to  each  county  in  the 
republic  three  leagues*  of  land,  (to  be  selected  by  the  county 
surveyor,  from  any  vacant  good  lands  in  that  county  or  else- 
where in  the  republic,  at  his  discretion)  to  be  appropriated 
exclusively  for  the  benefit  of  common  school^. 

The  same  act  required  the  President  to  cause  to  be  selected 
out  of  the  public  lands,  and  surveyed,  in  addition  to  the  above, 
fifty  leagues  of  good  land,  the  avails  of  which  are  to  be  ap- 
plied solely  to  the  endowment,  establishment  and  support  of 
two  colleges  or  universities,  hereafter  to  be  established  in  the 
eastern  and  western  sections  of  the  country.  These  lands 
are  not  now  to  be  sold,  nor  rented  for  long  periods.  When, 
through  the  increase  of  population  and  enlargement  of  facilities 
for  business,  these  lands  shall  appreciate  in  value,  it  is  in- 
tended that  a  part  of  them  shall  be  sold  to  defray  the  expenses 
of  building,  libraries,  apparatus,  &c.,  and  the  remainder  to  be 
a  fund  for  the  ordinary  expenses  of  the  institutions. 

*  This  league  and  those  which  follow  are  Mexican  measure,  containing 
4428  acres  and  a  fraction  over  each.  It  will  hence  be  seen  that  these  eq- 
dowments  are  large,  and  will  in  future  be  abundant. 

21* 


246  COMMON    AND    HIGH    SCHOOLS. 

At  the  last  session  of  Congress,  an  act  was  passed  to  cany 
into  effect  the  former  act  in  relation  to  common  schools  ;  in 
"which  it  is  provided  that,  as  early  as  circumstances  will  per- 
mit, there  shall  be  established  in  each  county  in  addition  to 
the  common  schools,  a  central  academy  or  high  school,  in 
which  classical  literature  and  the  higher  branches  of  mathe- 
matics shall  be  taught.  By  the  same  law  an  additional  league 
of  land  is  granted  to  each  county,  to  be  applied  equally  for  the 
benefit  of  said  academy  and  the  several  common  schools. 
The  chief  justice  and  his  two  associates  of  each  county,  by 
this  act  become  er-offirio  inspectors  of  schools,  and  are  bound 
to  secure  proper  teachers  and  visit  the  schools  from  time  to 
time.  Thus  attentive  are  the  people  of  Texas  to  the  best 
interests  of  the  rising  generation  in  preparing  for  them  all  pos- 
sible advantages  of  education. 

These  liberal  and  judicious  grants,  under  a  wise  direction, 
united  with  the  exertions  and  persevering  labors  of  the 
churches,  will  soon  place  Texas  in  a  favored  position  in  rela- 
tion to  schools  and  public  instruction.  Already  there  are  a 
number  of  public  and  private  schools  in  highly  successful 
operation.  These,  as  well  as  those  which  will  receive  aid 
from  the  avails  of  public  lands,  will  be  continually  increasing 
in  numbers  and  respectability,  and  experience  proves  that 
public  feeling  demands  that  most  of  our  youth  shall  be  trained 
under  the  influence  of  not  merely  moral  but  Christian  men  and 
Christian  ministers. 

By  a  law  of  the  state  of  Coahuila  and  Texas,  professing  to 
be  free,  it  was  enacted  that,  in  all  the  towns  of  the  state, 
schools  should  be  "  established,  the  instruction  should  be  uni- 
form, and  embrace  reading,  writing,  cyphering,  and  the  cate- 
chism of  the  Christian  religion"  the  meaning  of  which  last 
article  will  be  understood  by  recollecting  that  the  Roman  Ca- 
tholick  was  the  only  religion  tolerated.  We  hope  that  in  very 
many  of  the  schools  of  the  country  the  great  principles  of 


EDUCATION    UNCONTROLLED,  247 

Christianity  will  be  taught  and  exemplified,  but  not  according 
to  a  catechism  sanctioned  by  Roman  Catholick  priests.  Hap- 
pily all  such  legislation  is  now  abolished,  and  the  schools  like 
the  churches,  are  free  from  all  polluting  connection  with  poli- 
tical relations. 


248  INDIAN    CHARACTER. 


INDIANS. 


CHAPTER    XIX, 

The  Indians  of  Texas — causes  of  their  degraded  state,  and  vicious  and 
destructive  habits. — The  Caddo  Indians — their  defeat  and  dispersion. — 
Cherokees  —  civilization,  defeat  and  expulsion  of  that  tribe  from  the 
Texian  territory. —  Camanches —  their  predatory  habits  and  faithless 
and  cowardly  character,  etc. 

THE  Indians  still  resident  in  Texas,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Camanches,  are  few  in  number,  and  consist  of  the  remnants  of 
several  tribes  now  dwindled  down  to  so  small  numbers  as 
hardly  to  be  formidable  to  a  hamlet,  much  less  to  a  commu- 
nity. Whatever  may  have  been  their  former  character  for 
war  or  peace,  generosity  or  faithfulness,  the  inquirer  after 
Indian  virtues  would  long  seek  in  vain  before  he  found  one. 
Addicted,  with  few  exceptions,  to  drunkenness,  deception,  and 
stealing,  they  are  destitute  of  every  trait  of  virtuous  and 
manly  character.  Idle  from  habit  and  inclination,  they  de- 
pend for  subsistence  upon  the  fruits  of  the  chase,  added  to 
wha't  they  can  beg  or  steal. 

The  cause  which  has  probably  been  most  conducive  of  all 
others  to  this  wretched  state  of  degradation  is  ardent  spirits. 
To  them  as  to  white  men  drunkenness  becomes  not  only  in 
itself  destructive,  but  the  prolific  parent  of  numberless  vices 
and  crimes.  With  the  loss  of  property,  of  friends,  of  home, 
of  confidence,  and  the  means  of  supplying  the  wants  of  a 


INTEMPERANCE    AMONG    THE    INDIANS.  249 

family,  there  is  soon  superadded  the  loss  of  self-respect,  and 
all  effectual  effort  for  retrieving  lost  possessions  or  reputation. 
In  such  individuals,  if  principles  of  virtue  ever  existed,  they 
are  first  weakened,  broken  and  rendered  indistinct,  and  soon 
lost  in  entire  oblivion  of  all  sense  of  right  and  dignity.  Thus 
fallen,  sunk  and  hopeless,  what  shall  be  expected  of  the  un- 
happy being  but  squallid  wretchedness,  disease  and  death  ? 
From  such  a  state  as  this,  how  few  even  among  white  men 
are  ever  recovered  ?  What  then  shall  be  expected  of  the  un- 
lettered and  debased  savage,  who  has  added  to  his  barbarism 
the  last  low  vice  that  dishonors  the  human  species,  and  extin- 
guishes the  last  rays  of  reason  in  stupidity  and  helplessness  ? 

In  the  train  of  intemperance  follow  wastefulness,  idleness, 
want,  nakedness  and  hunger,  as  well  as  the  debilitated  frame, 
offensive  sickness,  and  depressing  lassitude.  Suffering  from 
cold,  weakness  and  hunger  at  once,  and  conscious  of  being 
justly  despised,  is  it  wonderful  that  the  half  naked  and  star- 
ving wretch  should  endeavour  to  supply  the  cravings  of  nature 
by  stealing,  or  even  joining  himself  to  any  body  of  men,  civil- 
ized or  savage,  for  purposes  of  war  that  would  furnish  him 
with  food?  Such  things  may  perhaps  explain  facts  yet  to  be 
related. 

Most  of  these  remnants  of  tribes  are  and  for  years  past 
have  been  at  peace  with  the  Americans.  They  are  therefore 
permitted  to  reside  where  they  please,  hunt  at  will  over  all 
the  prairies,  and  at  all  hours  visit  the  towns  to  sell  their 
game,  and  purchase  provisions,  ammunition  or  whiskey.  Of 
these  privileges  they  fully  avail  themselves,  and  as  before 
remarked,  full  often  for  the  sake  of  spirits  sell  their  game, 
guns,  and  even  their  blankets.  In  their  drunkenness  they  are 
often  no  doubt  miserably  cheated  and  defrauded  of  their  pro- 
perty, for  which  wrongs  they  are  utterly  without  remedy. 
Finding  redress  from  white  men  vain,  can  any  doubt  exist 
that  a  desire  for  revenge  is  aroused,  and  the  purpose  of  gain* 


250  THE    CADDO    INDIANS. 

ing  reparation  by  violence  or  stealth  deeply  formed  ?  Peace- 
ful as  the  relations  of  his  tribe  and  the  whites  may  be,  in  his 
heart  burns  the  feeling  of  injury  which  cannot  be  extinguish- 
ed. He  hears  that  some  tribe  of  the  red  men  are  at  war  with 
the  Americans,  and  without  consulting  his  chief  or  making 
known  his  purpose,  he  joins  the  war  party  in  search  of  plun- 
der and  revenge. 

When,  as  has  frequently  been  the  fact,  Texas  has  been 
compelled  to  make  war  upon  different  tribes  of  these  Indians, 
their  numbers  have  been  somewhat  larger  than  was  supposed 
to  belong  to  them.  And  when  the  Indians  were  driven  to 
leave  their  dead  upon  the  field,  individuals  of  the  nominally 
friendly  tribes  have  uniformly  been  found  among  them.  How 
far  this  conduct  was  chargeable  upon  the  tribe  is  unknown, 
but  probably  in  many  cases  it  was  the  crime  of  the  individuals 
alone.  Still  such  is  the  intemperance  and  abandonment  of 
character  among  them,  that  no  crime  or  folly  can  be  a  matter 
of  surprise. 

Though  few  indeed,  to  this  description  of  persons  there 
are  some  exceptions  of  an  honorable  character.  Some  few 
are  sober  and  discreet,  and  by  their  judicious  conduct  have 
secured  a  reputation  for  worth  and  integrity. 

The  Caddo  Indians  were  even  a  few  years  since  a  consid- 
erable tribe,  but  in  a  late  war  they  were  beaten  by  a  body  of 
Texian  troops  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Rusk,  and  the 
remnant  of  them  dispersed,  it  is  supposed  among  the  Chero- 
kees.  After  the  defeat  and  dispersion  of  this  tribe,  the  only 
Indians  whose  prowess  seemed  dangerous  were  the  Chero- 
kees  and  the  Camanches.  The  former  of  these  two  tribes 
had  made  considerable  advances  in  civilization.  Their 
houses,  dress,  furniture,  and  farms  all  testified  that  their  native 
pursuits  and  habits  were  greatly  changed,  and  that  they  were 
at  least  upon  the  very  borders  of  civilization.  In  war  they 
were  evidently  more  skilful,  brave  and  formidable  than  either 


DEFEAT    OF    THE    CHEROKEES.  251 

any  other  Indians  or  even  the  Mexicans.  For  a  long  time 
they  observed  the  strictest  neutrality  between  Texas  and  her 
Mexican  foes,  and  were  regarded  and  treated  as  friends. 
Such  continued  to  be  the  case  till  after  the  Mexicans  had  ap- 
parently abandoned  the  hope  of  reconquering  Texas.  Then 
through  her  agents  she  endeavored  to  induce  the  Cherokees 
to  make  war  upon  their  white  neighbors.  For  a  time  this 
proved  unsuccessful ;  at  length  they  began  to  furnish  to  hos- 
tile tribes  rifles,  ammunition,  and  other  means  of  carrying  on 
their  wars  against  the  people  of  Texas.  Injuries  were  com- 
mitted by  their  people  against  such  Texians  as  visited  their 
settlements.  Troops  were  accordingly  sent  into  their  neigh- 
borhood, and  the  commander  authorised  to  treat  with  them  for 
peace.  After  holding  two  councils  for  the  purpose  of  conclu- 
ding a  permanent  peace,  and  after  a  treaty  had  been  arranged, 
the  Indians  suddenly  flew  to  arms.  A  battle  ensued  and  the 
Indians  retreated.  As  the  troops  moved  forward  in  pursuit,  a 
man  met  them  from  the  Indian  camp  bearing  a  flag  with  fur- 
ther proposals.  The  commander  however  retained  the  am- 
bassador, and,  moving  forward,  attacked  the  camp  of  the 
enemy,  and  drove  them  from  it  with  considerable  slaughter, 
taking  a  number  of  prisoners.  This  defeat  of  the  enemy  was 
believed  to  be  entirely  decisive,  and  that  these  Indians  would 
leave  the  Texian  territory.  One  prisoner  was  released  with 
information,  that  by  the  restoration  of  some  Texians  believed 
to  be  in  the  hands  of  these  Indians  or  their  allies,  all  the  other 
prisoners  would  be  set  at  liberty.  The  result  of  this  judicious 
and  humane  course  has  not  yet  transpired. 

Thus  began  and  terminated  almost  at  the  same  time  the 
war  with  the  Cherokee  Indians.  In  battle,  said  an  officer  of 
the  Texian  army,  they  are  not  merely  respectable,  they  are 
as  much  to  be  dreaded  as  an  equal  number  of  men  of  any 
nation.  While  thus  making  advances  towards  all  that  con- 
stitutes civilization,  and  even  a  knowledge  of  the  gospel,  it  is 


252  CAMANCHE    INDIANS. 

to  be  lamented  that  stern  necessity  required   their  dispersion 
and  removal  out  of  the  country. 

To  the  above  the  Camanches  appear  in  strong  contrast. 
Without  any  fixed  residence,  they  have  no  houses,  and  dwell 
only  in  tents  covered  with  cloth  or  skins  and  frequently  re- 
moved. For  these  reasons  withal  they  attend  to  no  cultiva- 
tion of  the  soil,  and  to  most  of  them  bread  is  an  unknown 
article.  Feeding  exclusively  upon  flesh,  and  such  vegetable 
productions  as  the  forest  and  prairie  spontaneously  produces, 
their  whole  life  consists  in  the  labors  of  the  chase,  the  remo- 
val of  their  tents,  dressing  the  skins  of  their  game,  or  in  their 
warlike  excursions  for  plunder  and  scalps.  Living  in  a  warm 
climate  and  among  the  prairies,  their  horses  can  procure  their 
x>wn  subsistence,  and  consequently  they  keep  considerable 
herds  of  them,  always  moving,  whether  individually  or  in  a 
body,  on  horseback.  They  ride  with  ease,  and  manage  their 
'horses  with  a  skill  and  address  of  which  an  Arab  might  be 
proud.  As  their  dependence  for  food  is  on  the  flesh  of  their 
game,  they  very  naturally  follow  the  migrations  of  the  herds 
of  buffaloes ;  and  it  is  said  are  careful  never  to  kill  the  females 
with  young,  or  which  are  followed  by  sucking  calves.  In 
cases  of  necessity  they  also  eat  the  flesh  of  horses  and  mules* 
and  almost  any  other  animal  which  they  can  capture. 

Addicted  entirely  to  such  habits  and  manners  of  life,  they 
have  advanced  very  little  from  the  rudest  state  of  barbarism. 
Their  dress  is  as  imperfect  as  perhaps  any  other  Indians  in 
America,  and  their  disposition  to  plunder  as  strong  as  can  be 
found  among  the  savages  of  any  country.  Some  of  them  are 
armed  with  guns  and  rifles,  which  they  use  with  tolerable 
skill,  but  which  for  want  of  ability  to  keep  them  in  repair,  or 
for  want  of  ammunition,  become  frequently  useless.  Their 
more  common  weapons  are  bows  and  arrows  ;  the  latter,  since 
their  acquaintance  with  the  whites,  generally  armed  with 
points  of  iron  or  steel.  These  they  use  with  great  dexterity, 


INDIAN    VIRTUES    DIFFICULT    TO    FIND.  253 

and  often  with  deadly  effect.  In  addition  to  other  arms  they 
usually  carry  a  long  spear,  to  the  end  of  which  is  fastened  the 
point  of  a  sword,  with  which  to  pierce  their  game  or  their 
enemies,  as  the  case  may  be. 

In  their  war  parties,  if  not  elsewhere,  their  movements  ap- 
pear to  be  governed  by  well  understood  and  digested  rules. 
Whenever  they  discover  an  enemy  or  object  of  pursuit,  deem- 
ed weak  enough  to  be  attacked,  the  whole  troop  move  forward 
towards  it  at  full  speed,  till  within  a  suitable  distance,  when, 
as  if  by  some  preconcerted  signal,  they  divide  to  the  right 
and  left,  and  moving  at  unequal  rates  soon  surround  their  vic- 
tims. Should  soldiers,  or  any  other  persons  of  any  sex  or 
age  of  their  enemies,  be  thus  encircled,  their  only  hope  of 
life  would  be  in  forcing  their  way,  rifle  in  hand,  through  the 
line  of  Camanches,  which  is  very  apt  to  give  place  before  the 
dreaded  contents  of  that  death-doing  instrument.  Either  in 
avowed  war,  or  in  their  predatory  incursions  into  the  settle- 
ments, they  seldom  make  prisoners,  seeming  to  prefer  des- 
patching them  at  once,  in  order  the  more  conveniently  to 
retire  with  such  cattle,  horses  and  mules  as  they  are  able  to 
steal. 

Much  has  been  written  by  persons  of  taste  and  of  high 
talents  for  description,  of  the  fidelity  and  justice  observed  by 
these  and  various  other  tribes  of  Indians.  Without  disputing 
the  fact,  that  they  may  have  heard  something  like  what  they 
have  thus  beautifully  described,  we  are  required  by  simple 
truth  to  remark,  that  the  settler  in  the  new  part  of  the  country 
finds  in  the  conduct  of  the  natives  no  rilling  up  of  the  picture 
he  had  contemplated  from  the  pencil  of  Campbell  or  Irvine, 
or  any  other  eulogist  of  Indians.  Though  unsullied  peace 
had  subsisted  in  all  directions,  and  no  cause  for  war  had 
been  whispered,  the  marauding  party  would  enter  the  fields 
of  the  husbandman,  shoot  down  or  stab  his  servants  or  him- 
self, and  if  they  dared  burn  his  house  and  butcher  every  mem- 
ber of  his  family.  Nay,  though  they  may  have  just  with. 

22 


254  USUAL    RANGE    OF    THE    CAMANCttES. 

joined  hands  pledged  their  peace,  their  next  act  may  be  a  tra- 
gedyof  blood.  All  this  is  done  for  no  other  reason  than  their 
desire  of  plunder,  and  the  consciousness  that  by  their  violence 
they  will  be  regarded  as  enemies  and  treated  as  such. 

Instead  of  the  generous,  brave  and  faithful  friend,  the  In- 
dians in  practice  are  found  to  be  thievish,  deceitful  and  faith- 
less cowards,  destitute  of  truth  and  gratitude  ;  and  equally 
treacherous  and  cruel.  At  least  such  has  proved  eminently 
to  be  the  conduct  of  the  Camanches.  That  such  is  the  true, 
unvarnished  and  unexaggerated  character  and  habits  of  these 
robbers  and  assassins  can  be  proved  by  every  old  settler  in 
the  western  parts  of  Texas. 

These  Indians  for  the  most  part  are  found  between  the 
Colorado  and  the  head  waters  of  the  San  Antonio,  to  the  north 
of  Austin  and  San  Antonio  de  Bexar.  From  this  region, 
though  it  is  quite  a  broad  one,  they  have  frequently  extended 
their  incursions  far  down  the  Colorado,  and  even  across  the 
country  to  the  Brazos.  For  some  time  however  their  ma- 
rauding expeditions  have  been  much  more  limited,  as  the  set- 
tlements have  increased,  and  the  danger  of  being  intercepted 
in  their  retreat  has  become  more  threatening.  Even  the  re- 
stricted limits,  by  which  they  are  now  constrained,  seem 
likely  soon  to  be  much  narrowed  by  the  establishment  of  a 
chain  of  posts  from  near  the  heads  of  the  Trinity  river  to  the 
neighborhood  of  the  San  Antonio  and  Neuces  rivers.  As 
soon  as  this  is  complete  it  will  be  nearly  impossible  for  any 
number  of  them  to  approach  the  settlements  without  being  in- 
tercepted and  destroyed.  Though  little  can  be  hoped  from 
making  treaties  with  them,  it  is  believed  the  measures  now 
being  adopted  will  furnish  to  the  people  effectual  and  adequate 
security. 

The  question  is  asked  with  earnestness,  cannot  they  be 
reclaimed,  and  would  not  the  labors  of  missionaries  among 
them  be  productive  of  great  good  ?  Though  it  is  admitted 
that  the  influence  of  the  gospel  is  mighty  even  to  the  pulling 


MISSIONARY    PROSPECTS    UNFAVORABLE.  255 

down  of  the  strong  holds  of  iniquity,  it  is  believed  that  till  the 
savage  has  ceased  to  be  a  mere  stroller  over  the  face  of  the 
desert,  the  labors  of  the  missionary  is  likelyto  be  of  very  lit- 
tle avail.  When  once  the  native  commences  his  field,  erects 
his  house,  and  begins  to  aim  at  some  degree  of  improvement, 
there  is  hope  for  the  success  of  the  missionary,  and  the  ad- 
vancement of  the  savage  in  all  that  pertains  to  moral  and  intel- 
lectual culture.  Till  this  is  begun,  strong  doubt  exists  whe- 
ther the  savage  ear  will  be  open  to  the  law  that  forbids  to 
steal  and  requires  love  to  all  men.  It  is  no  doubt  exceedingly 
desirable  to  the  heart  of  Christian  philanthropy  to  reclaim 
these  wanderers  of  the  prairie  from  their  wild  and  savage 
courses ;  and  full  freely  no  doubt  would  many  a  zealous  mini- 
ster cast  his  lot  among  them  for  their  good  were  the  way 
open,  but  at  present  no  pleasing  prospect  of  rendering  them 
spiritual  aid  appears. 

This  tribe  is  believed  to  be  quite  numerous,  but  no  mean$ 
of  determining  with  tolerable  accuracy  their  real  strength  can 
be  devised.  Unhappy  people  !  Like  the  rest  of  the  aborigi- 
nes of  America,  they  seem  destined  to  annihilation.  Incapable 
of  united  and  skilful  action  in  self-defence  or  otherwise,  and 
obstinately  tenacious  of  their  former  wild  and  savage  igno- 
rance, they  must  melt  away  before  their  enemies  by  inches, 
being  destroyed  day  by  day  in  detail.  Though  this  may  now 
be  called  conjecture,  a  few  years  will  in  all  probability  con- 
vert it  into  history.  As  went  the  thousands  of  natives  along 
the  eastern  shores  of  the  continent,  so  even  now  are  departing 
these  western  red  men,  and  soon  their  places  will  no  more  be 
known.  Dark  in  their  countenance,  and  dark  in  mental 
vision,  still  darker  seems  their  destiny. 

Looking  back  upon  the  past  history  of  this  continent,  and 
seeing  the  extended  regions,  the  sites  of  mighty  empires  once 
the  dwellings  of  the  red  man,  whose  race  is  rapidly  becoming 
extinct ;  and  looking  forward  to  the  future  when  not  a  trace  of 
these  formerly  'countless  millions  shall  be  left,  will  not  the 


256  SAD    FATE    OF    THE    INDIAN. 

spirit  of  humanity  exclaim,  and  must  it  be,  that  all  these  mul- 
tiplied nations  must  be  destroyed  and  perish  for  ever !  Does 
the  spirit  of  enlightened  Christianity  demand  their  doom  !  Or 
is  it  fixed  among  the  decrees  of  the  Almighty  that  their  name 
and  memorial  shall  be  blotted  out !  From  whatever  cause  it 
has  arisen  the  effect  exists,  and  the  fate  of  the  red  man  seems 
written  for  oblivion.  Mourn,  however,  as  we  may  at  the 
prospect  of  their  entire  extinction,  who  will  undertake  to 
arrest  the  course  of  events  which  so  clearly  indicates  their 
end  ?  What  shall  be  done  to  avert  their  utter  annihilation  ? 
Can  any  one  tell  ?  O  that  mercy  from  on  high  might  redeem 
and  save  these  fast  perishing  sons  of  the  forest  1 


FOREIGN    AFFAIRS    FAVORABLE.  257 


FOREIGN  RELATIONS. 


CHAPTER  XX, 

Foreign  relations  of  Texas  generally  favorable.— The  war  with  Mexico 
at  the  present  time  merely  nominal. — Considerable  trade  carried  on 
with  that  country. — Policy  of  Texas  pacific. — Texas  the  doorway  for 
the  trade  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico. 

THE  republic  of  Texas,  with  the  exception  of  Mexico  and 
a  few  inconsiderable  companies  of  Indians,  is  at  peace  with 
all  the  world.  Her  independence  has  been  formally  acknow- 
ledged by  the  United  States  and  France,  and  her  minister 
recognised  by  the  secretary  of  state  in  Great  Britain.  Diplo- 
matic representatives  of  the  United  States  and  France  are 
now  resident  at  the  city  of  Austin,  and  a  Texian  charge  de 
affaires  is  at  Washington  city.  In  any  direction  or  from  any 
source,  no  indication  of  any  thing  but  continued  peace  appears. 
Whatever  clouds  seemed  for  a  very  short  time  to  dim  the 
prospect  of  entirely  pacific  relations  with  one  or  two  nations, 
have  disappeared,  and  no  cause  for  controversy  can,  it  is  be- 
lieved, soon  arise  to  produce  warlike  collision  with  any  of 
them.  All  the  ports  of  Europe  are  open  to  the  vessels  and 
products  of  the  country,  and  a  commercial  treaty  of  the  most 
advantageous  character  has  been  lately  ratified  between  Texas 
and  the  empire  of  the  French.  Nothing  in  her  position,  her 
commerce,  her  legislation  or  relative  interests  is  calculated  to 


258  POLICY    OF    TEXAS    PACIFIC. 

induce  the  least  interruption  between  her  and  any  of  the  sur~ 
rounding  nations.  From  all  these  circumstances  and  the 
pacific  disposition  of  her  rulers  and  citizens,  Texas  has  as 
little  cause  to  fear  future  wars  as  any  other  state  or  nation. 

With  Mexico,  from  whom  by  her  declaration  of  independ- 
ence, she  became  finally  and  irrevocably  separated,  the  war 
commenced  for  liberty  still  nominally  exists.  The  Mexican 
government  has  not  recognised  the  independence  of  the  new 
republic,  nor  by  a  peacje  made  a  formal  termination  of  the  war. 
Thus  with  that  one  country  the  political  relations  of  Texas 
are  warlike.  Sometimes  nations  have  retained  the  external 
forms  of  peace  and  amity,  while  in  effect  and  in  all  measures 
except  actual  bloodshed,  there  was  a  real  and  active  state  of 
war,  a  "  war  in  disguise."  Between  Mexico  and  this  country 
this  case  is  reversed,  and  though  nominally  at  war,  no  military 
operations  or  preparations  indicate  either  present  or  future 
battles.  By  land  and  sea  a  considerable  trade  is  carried  on 
between  merchants  in  the  two  republics,  and  no  attempts  are 
made  by  the  public  authorities  of  either  to  prevent  or  restrain 
it. 

It  is  no  part  of  the  policy  of  the  government  of  Texas  to 
renew  the  war,  or  to  carry  their  conquests  beyond  the  present 
bounds  of  the  country.  For  more  territory  they  have  little 
occasion,  for  greater  numbers  of  Mexican  subjects  they  have 
no  desire.  To  them  conquest  would  be  useless  or  injurious, 
and  victories  of  no  other  value  than  the  influence  they  might 
have  in  inducing  peace.  The  Mexicans  on  their  part,  what- 
ever their  wishes  or  pride  may  induce  them  to  pretend,  have 
little  prospect  of  conquering  the  Texians.  The  withdrawal 
of  their  troops  from  the  centre  of  the  country,  would  put  in 
hazard  the  power  of  its  rulers  and  the  form  of  the  government. 
So  many  and  so  powerful  are  the  disaffected  to  centralism, 
that  it  requires  the  utmost  vigilance  and  exertion  to  prevent 
the  bursting  out  of  new  revolutions.  If  the  authorities  have 
little  prospect  from  active  operations  against  Texas,  their 


MEXICO   AFRAID    TO    INVADE    TEXAS,  259 

officers  and  troops  have  as  little  disposition  to  gain  laurels  by 
conquering  the  Anglo-Texians.  Indeed  it  is  believed  by 
many  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  induce  an  army  of  Mexicans 
to  venture  an  invasion  of  the  republic.  So  costly  have  been 
all  their  victories,  and  so  bloody  and  disgraceful  their  defeats> 
that  few  men,  officers  or  soldiers,  would  willingly  expose 
their  lives  and  reputation  in  a  descent  upon  Texas. 

How  little  expectation  exists  in  Texas  of  further  hostilities 
from  Mexico,  will  be  easily  understood,  when  it  is  learned 
that,  by  a  late  act  of  congress,  the  whole  navy  of  the  country 
is  required  to  be  laid  up  in  ordinary  except  one  or  two  cutters 
employed  in  the  custom  house  department  for  the  better  secu- 
rity of  the  revenue  ;  and  the  whole  military  force,  consisting 
of  but  one  single  regiment,  withdrawn  from  the  Mexican  fron- 
tier and  stationed  in  a  range  of  posts  on  the  northern  border 
of  the  country,  to  prevent  and  repel  the  incursions  of  the 
savages.  Not  a  single  remark  or  expression  by  any  of  the 
heads  of  departments,  member  of  congress  or  other  citizen, 
indicates  any  more  expectation  of  war  with  Mexico  than  if  no 
such  nation  existed. 

From  all  this  it  is  evident  that  for  all  practical  purposes  the 
country  is  in  a  state  of  profound  peace  with  all  civilized  na- 
tions, and  no  prospect  of  war  threatens  to  change  this  auspi- 
cious state  of  things. 

This  state  of  nominal  war  cannot  probably  long  continue. 
The  advantages  to  be  derived  by  both  nations  from  free  inter- 
course, unobstructed  trade  and  mutual  interchange  of  benefits, 
are  too  numerous  and  too  palpable  to  be  overlooked  or  disre- 
garded. Public  feeling  as  well  as  national  interest  will  com- 
pel the  authorities  of  Mexico  to  listen  to  proposals  of  peace. 
Nor  is  this  prospect  founded  merely  on  conjecture.  It  is 
asserted  that  a  correspondence  of  a  semi-official  character  has 
been  carried  on  by  the  diplomatic  agents  of  Texas  and  Mexico 
at  Washington  city,  having  for  its  object  the  adjustment  of  the 
terms  of  pacification  and  commerce  between  the  belligerent 


260   U.  3.  AND  MEXICAN  TRADE  PASS  THROUGH  TEXAS. 

parties.  The  result  of  this  proceeding,  it  is  confidently  hoped, 
will  be  a  speedy  peace  with  Mexico,  and  her  consequent  ac- 
knowledgment of  the  independence  of  Texas. 

Whenever  this  is  done  Texas  will  become  the  door  through 
which  a  very  large  portion  of  the  trade  of  Mexico  and  the 
United  States  must  necessarily  pass.  Her  ports,  her  mer- 
chants and  her  carriers  will  receive  and  transport  the  goods 
of  New-York,  Philadelphia  and  New  Orleans,  and  equally  in 
return  convey  back  the  cochineal  and  gold  of  Mexico.  For 
all  her  bread  stuffs  and  manufactures  as  well  as  cotton  and 
sugar,  a  ready  market  will  be  found  at  home,  and  the  produc- 
tions of  every  country  will  be  offered  at  cheap  rates  in  all  her 
towns.  This  may  be  called  mere  speculation,  but  it  is  based 
upon  certain  facts  the  effect  of  which  must  equal  or  surpass 
the  estimated  benefits.  True,  the  currency  is  in  a  deranged 
state,  and  her  money  depreciated.  It  is  however  far  better 
than  the  currency  of  the  United  States  was  at  the  close  of  the 
revolution,  and  such  arrangements  already  exist  as  necessarily 
must  remove  this  difficulty  in  a  short  time.  All  the  political 
and  other  evils  beyond  those  incident  to  all  nations  and 
people  are  temporary,  and  must  soon  disappear,  while  all  her 
advantages  are  such  as  may  be  expected  to  be  as  permanent 
as  they  are  valuable.  Shadows  as  well  as  lights  do  indeed 
appear  as  spots  in  her  horizon,  but  like  thin  morning  vapors 
they  will  disappear  before  the  brightness  of  the  advancing 
day, 

GENERAL    REFLECTIONS. 

From  a  slight  examination  of  a  map  of  the  world,  the  intelli- 
gent and  philosophical  mind  can  scarcely  fail  to  observe  the 
steady  and  yet  rapid  extension  of  the  power,  influence  and 
language  of  our  Anglo-Saxon  ancestors.  Though  originally 
proprietors  of  merely  a  part  of  the  island  of  England  proper, 


ONWARD     MARCH    OF    THE    ANGLO-SAXON    RACE.         261 

upon  a  comparatively  cold  and  barren  soil,  and  though  when 
they  became  proprietors  of  the  whole  island  they  ranked 
among  the  smallest  of  the  nations  of  Europe,  and  though  en- 
circled and  isolated  by  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  they  have 
literally  broke  forth  on  the  right  hand  and  on  the  left,  and 
their  seed  does  inherit  the  gentiles,  causing  multiplied  cities 
to  be  inhabited.  From  those  who  came  out  from  her  as  colo- 
nies, one  vast  empire  has  been  formed  in  the  United  States. 
In  India  another  vastly  expanded  power,  rivalling  in  numbers 
the  most  powerful  nations  of  the  earth,  still  remains  obedient 
to  the  parental  sway.  The  West  Indies  and  Canadas  are 
provinces  larger  than  many  ancient  kingdoms.  New  Holland 
is  fast  swelling  into  empire  of  vast  extent  and  unknown  re- 
sources. South  Africa  and  a  large  part  of  South  America,, 
are  English  dependencies.  The  South  Seas,  the  Mediterra- 
nean, the  north-west  coast  of  America  and  numerous  other 
islands  of  the  ocean  use  the  language  of  our  fathers.  Texas 
though  last  is  not  least  among  the  scions  from  this  small  but 
prolific  stock.  The  poet  sung  beautifully  of  the  places  where 
rest  the  remains  of  "  England's  dead."  But  why  speak  alone 
of  them  ?  Where  rests  not  the  foot,  where  speaks  not  the 
tongue  and  breathes  not  the  spirit  of  England's  living  sons  9 
What  regions  have  they  not  traversed,  what  wilds  not  pierced* 
what  seas  not  spanned,  and  what  discoveries  not  achieved  ? 
And  still  the  descendants  of  Alfred,  Canute  and  Harold  are 
carrying  forward  the  car  of  empire.  In  the  East  the  kingdoms 
of  Persia,  the  Afghans  and  their  allies,  yield  to  England's 
arms,  and  the  little  band  of  Anglo-Texians  have  in  the  West 
conquered  their  own  independence  of  the  eight  millions  of  the 
nation  of  Mexico. 

Wherever  the  banner  of  these  sons  of  freedom  floats  and 
marks  the  place  of  the  descendants  of  Anglo-Saxons,  there 
too  dwells  the  government  of  laws,  a  system  of  human  rights, 
and  security  against  the  exercise  of  lawless  power.  Seek  the 
country  trod  by  the  feet  of  these  freement  and  there  too  is 


262          THE    GOSPEL    DIFFUSES    LIGHT    AND    LIBERTY. 

found  the  school  radiating  light  to  all  the  people,  and  there  too 
arises  the  temple  built  by  voluntary  liberality,  and  consecrated 
to  the  service  of  God,  by  the  unconstrained  labors  of  those 
who  enjoy  religious  freedom.  Liberty,  protection,  education 
and  intelligence  attend  the  progress  of  the  race  in  every  land. 
Before  their  march  despotism,  religious  tyranny,  ignorance 
and  lawless  power,  are  ashamed  and  disappear. 

And  shall  not  the  spreading  and  expanding  influence  of  the 
free  principles  and  pure  morality  of  this  favored  portion  of 
mankind  still  continue  to  increase  ?  Who  shall  say  to  these 
flowing  waves  as  they  move  forward,  "Hitherto  shall  ye  come 
and  no  farther  ?"  Whatever  may  be  the  fate  of  the  men,  their 
principles  will  prevail  more  and  more,  till,  like  a  mantle  of 
light,  they  shall  pervade  all  nations,  and  all  men  feel  the 
blessed  results  of  their  operation. 

And  shall  not  the  independence,  the  free  constitution,  wise 
laws  and  useful  institutions  of  Texas,  accomplish  some  part 
of  these  happy  results  ?  When  peace  shall  remove  all  ob- 
stacles to  a  free  intercourse  with  Mexico,  and  every  city,  town 
and  village  of  that  nation,  shall  be  visited  by  and  become  the 
residence  of  intelligent  adventurers  from  Texas  and  the  United 
States ;  and  when  spite  of  opposition  from  priests  and  bigots, 
the  freedom  of  religion  shall  be  urged  upon  the  people,  and 
the  scriptures  distributed  and  read,  will  not  the  people  learn 
something  of  the  value  of  knowledge,  of  the  advantages  of 
religious  freedom,  and  the  hatefulness  of  priestly  domination 
and  exactions?  Is  there  not  in  the  breast  of  man  an  instinc- 
tive love  of  liberty,  that  needs  but  the  torch  of  intelligence  to 
develope  ;  that  as  soon  as  a  knowledge  of  Texian  liberty  and 
her  deliverance  from  the  power  and  avarice  of  the  priesthood 
becomes  general,  will  demand,  in  accents  not  to  be  resisted, 
a  constitution  and  laws  based  upon  principles  like  those  of 
their  sister  republics  on  the  north  and  east  ?  And  can  such 
knowledge  be  long  kept  from  the  people  ?  As  well  might  it 
be  asked,  can  they  forbear  to  see  and  hear.  They  must  per 


INFLUENCE  OF  TEXIAN  LIBERTY  UPON  MEXICO.   263 

force  see  and  know  something  of  these  things,  because  they 
will  hear  them  from  every  American  they  see,  and  every 
Mexican  who  steps  foot  in  Texas.  The  progress  of  such  prin- 
ciples too  is  onward ;  their  course  is  hastened  by  every 
breeze,  and  expedited  by  every  event.  And  dark  as  the  pros- 
pect may  at  present  seem,  Mexico  herself  shall  yet  rejoice  in 
the  full  possession  of  rational  and  universal  freedom. 

And  shall  the  light  that  shines  over  Mexico  be  unseen  by 
the  rest  of  the  Hispanio-American  states  ?  Can  the  torch  of 
liberty  blaze  around  them  and  not  dispel  the  gloom  of  their 
dark  tyranny  ?  The  very  morn  that  shall  arise  upon  emanci- 
pated Mexico,  shall  mark  the  onward  march  of  freedom 
through  all  the  regions  of  superstition  in  South  America. 

But  in  the  events  connected  with  the  settlement  and  suc- 
cessful struggles  of  this  people,  to  establish  a  republic  upon 
the  principles  which  characterise  the  government  of  the  Uni- 
ted States,  the  Christian  philanthropist  will  trace  the  opera- 
tions of  that  Hand  that  "  doeth  all  things  well.'"  He  will 
discover  the  beginnings  of  those  events  which  are  to  terminate 
in  the  wide  diffusion  of  the  sacred  truth  of  God,  the  enlarge- 
ment of  the  church  of  the  Redeemer,  the  deliverance  of  thou- 
sands from  the  captivity  of  sin,  and  the  erection  of  Christ's 
kingdom  upon  the  demolished  ruins  of  the  empire  of  anti- 
Christ.  Here,  but  a  few  years  since,  Romish  idolatry  was 
enjoined  by  the  fundamental  law  of  the  land  ;  this  law  was 
practically  enforced  by  the  priests,  it  was  resisted  by  a  partial 
law  of  a  single  state;  but  to  check  this  rising  of  opposition 
the  power  of  the  whole  government  was  concentrated,  and 
with  an  army  of  mercenaries  the  president  attempted  to  coerce 
the  people  into  submission  to  all  the  demands  of  this  dark  and 
iron  superstition.  This  attempt,  though  resisted  by  but  a 
little,  very  little  community  of  freemen,  was  utterly  defeated, 
and  that  little  community  organised  into  an  independent  nation. 
Still,  feeble  as  it  was,  it  is  rapidly  becoming  a  strong  nation. 
Wherefore  was  this  done  ?  and  by  what  power  save  that  of 


264  TEXAS    AIDED    BY    DIVINE    PROVIDENCE. 

the  Lord,  was  a  little  state  with  less  than  fifty  thousand  widely 
scattered  inhabitants,  enabled  successfully  to  resist  the  con- 
centrated power  of  Mexico,  led  on  by  its  chief  magistrate  in 
person  ?  For  what  purpose  was  this  little  company  permitted 
to  humble  the  pride  of  the  bloody  Santa  Anna?  For  what 
end  was  the  arm  of  the  enemy  broken  and  Texas  permitted  to 
sustain  without  opposition  her  entire  independence,  and  to 
establish  a  form  of  government  upon  the  most  perfect  model 
the  world  has  ever  seen  ? 

With  a  map  of  Texas  and  Mexico  open  before  him,  the 
Christian  will  perceive  that  no  natural  barrier  intervenes  to 
prevent  the  most  perfect  intercourse  between  the  citizens  of 
the  two  countries,  while  the  boundary  by  which  they  are 
separated  is  very  extensive.  All  along  the  waters  of  the  Rio 
Grande,  from  its  mouth  to  its  source,  there  will  be  a  constant 
intercourse,  and  constant  communication  of  views,  intelligence 
and  thought  among  the  inhabitants.  This,  nothing  on  earth 
can  prevent.  In  this  intercourse  too,  there  will  of  necessity 
be  a  communication  of  more  or  less  religious  knowledge. 
Along  this  river,  as  elsewhere,  Christians  will  read  the  scrip- 
tures, listen  to  the  word  of  God,  and  read  it  in  their  families. 
Here  too  they  will  bestow  the  scriptures  upon  such  Mexicans 
as  desire  to  read  them,  without  asking  leave  of  the  priests. 
Here  the  pious  will  distribute  tracts  and  institute  prayer- 
meetings,  and  some  of  the  Mexicans  will  attend  them  and 
other  places  of  worship.  When  these  things  are  done,  the 
natural  effects  of  the  gospel  will  be  produced.  Some  of  the 
Roman  Catholics  will  be  converted,  and  will  persuade  their 
friends  to  read  the  sacred  Word  and  become  acquainted  with 
the  Lord.  Thus  the  work  will  spread,  and  the  saving  know- 
ledge of  divine  truth  find  an  entrance  into  Mexico,  the  influ- 
ence of  which  will  continue  to  enlarge,  till  the  country  shall 
voluntarily  shake  off  the  shackles  of  Rome,  and  walk  at  large 
in  the  liberty  of  truth. 

But  this  is  not  the  only  means  by  which  the  leaven  of  the 


SOUTH    AMERICA    WILL    HEAR    THE    SCRIPTURES.       265 

gospel  will  be  introduced  among  the  benighted,  bewildered 
Mexicans.  The  influence  of  civil  liberty  will  cause  schools 
to  be  established  in  various  places,  in  which  the  books  and 
teachers  will  from  time  to  time  disseminate  portions  of  know- 
ledge on  religious  subjects,  as  well  as  others.  Here  they 
will  hear  of  the  scriptures,  and  desire  to  learn  for  themselves 
the  instructions  given  by  God  to  his  people.  Bibles  and 
religious  books  will  find  their  way  into  all  parts  of  the  country, 
and  some  will  read  them  and  speak  of  their  contents.  The 
proximity  of  such  nations  as  Texas  and  the  United  States 
will  produce  these  effects,  and  the  power  of  the  Holy  Spirit 
will  follow  the  labors  and  prayers  of  Christians  for  the  salva- 
tion of  this  people. 

In  the  achievement  of  Texian  independence  and  constitu- 
tional government,  the  intelligent  Christian  will  see  the  first 
entrance  of  that  wedge  which  shall  rend  in  sunder  the  struc- 
ture of  Roman  superstition  in  the  western  world.  Small  as 
this  first  opening  may  seem,  every  increase  of  power,  and 
every  political  advantage,  every  thing  that  brings  Texas  and 
her  people  into  view  will  deepen  and  enlarge  the  opening,  till 
light,  and  liberty,  and  truth,  shall  find  free  entrance  into  the 
very  heart  of  that  darkened  land. 

That  train  of  events  which,  under  Providence,  regenerates 
the  people  of  Mexico,  will  also  carry  uncontrollable  influence 
into  Guatemala  and  the  South  American  States.  True  the 
overthrow  of  the  power  of  the  Man  of  Sin  may  not  be  at  once 
accomplished.  He  will  struggle  hard  and  long  before  he 
yields  up  his  prey.  In  this  contest  too  there  may  be  difficul- 
ties, disasters  and  suffering,  but  the  event  is  certain.  The 
prophecy  has  gone  forth  that  the  Lord  shall  destroy  this 
"  Man  of  Sin  by  the,  brightness  of  his  coming." 

But  the  wise  Christian  will  also  discover  in  these  events, 
that  here  is  a  wide  field  of  labor  for  the  cause  of  righteous- 
ness in  this  young  and  rising  republic.  Here  the  institutions, 
literary  and  religious,  of  the  country,  are  yet  to  be  formed. 

23 


266  PRIVATE    CHRISTIANS    NEEDED    IN    TEXAS. 

Here  churches  are  to  be  gathered,  the  light  of  religious  and 
pious  influence  to  be  held  out,  the  young  to  be  instructed,  the 
backsliding  reclaimed,  and  the  character  of  the  people  and 
nation  to  be  formed.  This  is  to  a  great  extent  to  be  done 
before  the  full  gospel  influence  of  the  country  can  be  made 
effectual  for  the  salvation  of  the  Mexicans  on  their  borders. 

How  shall  all  these  things  be  accomplished?  Can  they 
be  so  but  by  the  seen  and  witnessed  influence  and  exertions 
of  God's  people  ?  Can  Texas  be  moulded  to  the  form  and 
power  of  the  gospel,  while  Christians  keep  at  a  distance  and 
refuse  to  do  her  good?  Texas  it  is  true  wants  missionaries, 
but  she  equally  wants  private  Christians  to  hold  up  their 
preacher's  hands,  become  parts  of  the  public  and  the  salt  of 
the  land,  and  by  their  example  and  persuasions  illustrate  the 
benefits  of  religion  among  mankind.  They  are  needed  to  sus- 
tain sabbath  schools,  form  and  lead  prayer  meetings,  circulate 
Christian  books,  and  by  their  lives  and  deaths  show  the  power 
of  true  religion.  They  are  specially  wanted  to  shew  to  igno- 
rant and  prejudiced  Mexicans,  how  much  more  blessed  is  the 
influence  of  inbred  piety  than  the  dogmas  and  pardons  of  their 
own  priests.  Here  is  to  be  gained  blessed  conquests  of  the 
Christian  host  against  infidelity,  indifference,  ignorance  and 
superstition,  and  christians  are  invited  to  come  and  share  in 
the  victory. 

Perhaps  no  part  of  the  world  furnishes  a  field  where  the 
labor  of  private  christians  is  more  needful  or  more  certain  of 
being  blessed  with  success. 


LANDS    PLENTY    AND    CHEAP.  267 


HINTS    TO    EMIGRANTS. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


Lands  plenty  and  cheap. —  Cultivators  may  all  be  suited. —  Caution  re- 
quired in  purchasing  land  claims  from  strangers. —  Kind  of  emigrants 
most  needed. —  Prices  of  provisions  in  1839-40. —  Texas  the  country 
for  farmers. —  Directions  to  emigrants  removing  their  families,  goods, 
etc. 


IT  is  by  no  means  an  uncommon  circumstance,  that  travellers 
and  persons  moving  to  a  new  country,  discover  that  owing  to 
some  want  of  information  or  mistake  even  in  small  matters, 
they  are  subjected  to  much  inconvenience  if  not  loss  and  mis- 
fortune. Conceiving  that  possibly  many  persons  about  to 
start  for  Texas,  may  misconceive  some  things  and  mistake  in 
others  to  their  vexation  or  detriment,  it  is  thought  advisable  to 
offer  to  them  the  following  hints  and  suggestions,  by  which 
some  at  least  may  receive  benefit. 

I.  The  population  of  every  part  of  the  country  is  thin,  and 
very  much  land  remains  unenclosed  and  unprofitable.  Con- 
sequently purchasers  for  ready  pay  can  obtain  farms  in  such 
places  as  may  suit  them  at  very  reasonable  prices.  In  every 
section  of  the  country  good  land,  well  situated  and  productive, 
would  sell  for  from  three  to  five  dollars  except  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  towns  and  cities.  Be  the  object  of  the  emi- 
grant what  it  may,  he  needs  not  fear  that  all  the  desirable 
and  is  out  of  his  reach.  The  sugar  planter  may  obtain  lands 


268  CAUTION    IN    PURCHASING    LAND    CLAIMS. 

suited  to  his  objects,  and  the  grain  grower,  by  choosing  his 
place  farther  from  the  coast,  can  find  land  admirably  adapted 
to  the  culture  of  bread  stuffs.  The  cotton  planter  and  graziei 
will  find  all  places  except  a  few  gravelly  hills  suitable  for 
their  business.  It  may  in  short  be  said  the  land  is  all  before 
them  where  to  choose. 

It  is  proper  here  to  caution  the  emigrant  about  purchasing 
land  claims  of  strangers,  especially  before  he  arrives  in  the 
country.  Vast  numbers  of  claims  have  been  fraudulently  ob- 
tained from  the  land  commissioners,  and  still  more  numerous 
claims,  offered  for  sale  in  the  United  States,  are  forgeries. 
A  large  number  of  emigrants  from  Great  Britain  arrived  last 
winter  at  Galveston,  with  their  land  certificates  previously 
purchased,  and  found  them  all  entirely  worthless.  Of  the 
criminality  and  baseness  of  the  wretches  who  thus  filched 
from  the  hands  of  the  industrious  poor  their  earnings,  it  would 
be  impossible  to  speak  in  terms  too  severe.  As  however 
such  frauds  are  common,  and  as  it  would  be  difficult  to  ex- 
plain the  nature  of  the  differences  between  good  and  bad 
claims,  the  safe  course  is  to  forbear  purchases,  unless  it  be  of 
responsible  and  well  known  individuals,  till  after  arriving  in 
Texas.  Even  after  arriving  here,  it  may  be  well  for  the  emi- 
grant to  ask  counsel  of  some  well  skilled  friend  or  of  the 
county  surveyor. 

II.  The  kind  of  persons  most  needed  as  emigrants  in  Texas 
are  the  cultivators  of  the  soil,  and  such  mechanics  as  are 
most  necessary  to  the  farmer's  business.  It  is  not  intended 
that  others  are  undesirable  or  would  not  be  freely  welcomed, 
nor  that  many  of  them  would  not  succeed  well  in  several  pro- 
fessions. But  in  the  present  circumstances  of  the  country, 
wheji  all  the  grain  which  can  be  reared  in  it  is  not  sufficient 
to  supply  the  immediate  wants- of  the  settlers  and  emigrants, 
producers  from  the  soil,  nnd  they  whose  labors  go  to  aid  them 
in  increasing  the  amount  of  production,  are  specially  needed. 

To  this  it  may  be  added  that  no  part  of  the  community  are 


PRICES    OF    PROVISIONS.  269 

so  surely  or  more  liberally  repaid  for  their  exertions  than  the 
industrious  and  skilful  dressers  of  the  soil.  Every  article 
which  they  can  spare  meets  with  a  ready  market  at  home  or 
at  the  nearest  town.  If  a  single  thing  can  be  said  to  com- 
mand a  low  price  it  is  beef,  though  this  is  as  high  as  it  usu- 
ally is  in  the  markets  of  New  England.  It  would  be  vain  to 
attempt  to  describe  prices  at  any  of  the  towns.  Chickens 
were  sold  last  winter  in  Houston  at  fifty  cents  a-piece,  eggs 
fifty  cents  a  dozen,  and  other  things  proportionally  high.  In 
Austin  wild  turkies  were  sold  at  five  dollars  a  pair,  corn  at 
two  dollars  a  bushel,  rice  at  twenty-five  cents  per  pound. 
Such  too  is  the  rapid  influx  of  population  that  these  prices 
will  not  soon  be  materially  diminished.  At  such  prices  where 
all  kinds  of  animals  can  get  their  own  living,  and  the  soil  is 
abundantly  fruitful,  the  farmer  with  ordinary  industry  cannot 
well  fail  to  thrive.  Such  indeed  is  the  productiveness  of 
farming  labor,  that  a  very  large  proportion  of  physicians  and 
lawyers  are  turning  their  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
earth  as  more  profitable  than  any  other  business.  This  is 
truly  the  country  for  farmers. 

III.  Men  with  young  families,  especially  if  they  have 
some  means  with  which  to  make  a  beginning,  can  here  pro-' 
cure  at  a  comparatively  small  expense,  land  enough  on  which 
to  establish  his  children  as  they  may  want  it,  and  secure  to 
themselves  ample  range  for  cattle,  and  all  the  comforts  which 
abundance  of  products  in  a  new  country  can  furnish.  It  is 
not  to  be  denied  that  emigrants  who  remove  to  this  region 
will  have  to  meet  privations,  and  suffer  the  usual  inconve- 
niences of  a  country  unsupplied  with  mechanics,  and  but  be- 
gun to  be  cultivated.  Many  of  the  luxuries  and  comforts  of 
the  old  states  and  cities  are  not  obtainable.  The  garden,  or^ 
chard,  poultry  yard,  and  even  the  house  are  to  be  formed 
before  they  can  be  enjoyed.  Turnpikes,  rail-roads  and  stages 
have  not  yet  become  common,  and  steamboat  navigation  on 
the  rivers  is  not  yet  sufficiently  regular  and  constant  to  affor^ 

23* 


270  GREAT    INDUCEMENTS    TO    EMIGRANTS. 

much  dependence  for  travelling  or  transportation,  except  at 
particular  seasons. 

From  these  and  like  causes,  the  settler  will  find  the  form- 
ing of  an  establishment  in  a  new  country  a  business  requiring 
exertion,  self-denial  and  perseverance,  but  these  are  less  to 
be  dreaded  because  they  are  among  the  surest  means  of  final 
success  and  affluence  to  which  men  can  resort.  When  life 
and  health  are  preserved,  the  results  of  persevering  industry 
in  cultivating  the  soil  are  certain  competence  and  prosperity. 
With  the  above  exceptions  in  this  business  there  is  no  risk  or 
hazard  whatever.  While  land  is  cheap  then  what  induce- 
ments are  offered  to  those  who  would  provide  homes  for  their 
children,  to  make  early  arrangements  for  commencing  the 
foundation  of  a  certain  estate  that  can  neither  be  burned  up 
nor  carried  off  by  flood  or  storm. 

IV.  When  families  remove  into  the  country  as  adventurers, 
without  having  previously  visited  it,  they  would  probably  do 
well  to  bring  with  them  small  establishments  of  furniture, 
cooking  utensils,  farming  tools  and  tents.  By  doing  this  they 
will  probably  save  much  expense  in  tavern  bills,  and  the  pur- 
chase of  many  things  at  exorbitant  prices.  They  may  also 
be  prepared  at  once  on  finding  a  location  to  suit  them  to  com- 
mence preparing  a  house,  enclosing  fields  and  the  like.  By 
ihis  too  they  may  be  prepared  to  travel  in  any  direction  in 
their  own  waggons,  find  their  own  lodgings,  cook  their  own 
food,  and  do  it  all  at  little  expense.  This  last  is  in  this 
country  a  matter  to  anew  settler  of  some  importance. 

In  removing  from  the  western  and  south-western  states  to 
Texas  by  land,  it  is  seldom  advisable  to  bring  ox  teams,  not 
only  because  they  travel  slowly,  but  also  because  they  may 
be  sold  in  the  states  for  more  than  like  oxen  would  cost  here. 
Horses  for  Texas  should  be  firm  and  able  work  horses,  which 
may  be  profitably  used  in  field  labor.  These  will  always 
command  a  fair  price,  and  will,  if  not  sold,  pay  well  for  their 
feeding.  Good  ploughs  and  other  implements  of  husbandry 


THE    SEASON    FOR    EMIGRATION.  271 

are  dear  and  scarce,  and  emigrants  will  do  wisely  to  bring 
with  them  as  many  as  they  conveniently  can.  Good  supplies 
of  plain  clothing  also  will  be  found  desirable,  as  from  various 
causes  they  cannot  as  well  be  made  here. 

Emigrants  with  families  going  into  the  interior,  when 
coming  by  water,  would  probably  do  well  to  bring  with  them 
substantial  waggons,  by  which  to  convey  their  families  and 
goods  into  the  country.  Transportation  as  has  been  stated  by 
steamboats  for  most  of  the  country  is  precarious  and  unfre- 
quent,  and  by  land  in  hired  waggons  troublesome  and  expen- 
sive. Stages  will  probably  run  the  ensuing  winter  between 
Houston  and  Austin,  but  they  will  necessarily  be  irregular 
and  their  charges  enormous.  As  far  as  possible  emigrants 
should  be  prepared  to  travel  in  their  own  conveyance,  at  their 
own  leisure,  and  in  any  direction. 

Supplies  of  provisions,  groceries,  and  the  like,  should  be 
laid  in  at.  suitable  places  in  the  states,  in  order  to  be  conveyed 
in  the  cheapest  method  to  the  place  of  destination.  All  these 
when  purchased  in  new  settlements  are  exceedingly  high, 
and  sometimes  not  to  be  obtained.  It  would  be  well  also  for 
emigrants  to  start  early  enough  on  their  route  to  arrive  at  their 
place  of  residence  in  November  at  farthest,  so  as  to  avoid  the 
autumnal  rains  and  bad  roads.  Travelling  and  transportation 
become  slow  and  doubly  expensive  after  the  winter  rains 
have  saturated  the  earth  with  moisture. 

V.  Men  of  families  purposing  to  remove  to  this  country, 
when  circumstances  permit  it,  would  do  well  to  come  to  the 
country  alone,  visit  its  different  parts,  select  a  position  and 
make  his  purchase  of  land.  Then  let  him  ascertain  what  the 
wants  of  his  family  will  be,  and  the  best  and  easiest  mode  of 
removal,  and  make  sucii  previous  preparations  as  are  neces- 
sary. This  done,  he  may  send  for  or  go  after  his  family,  and 
avoid  very  many  inconveniences  and  difficulties  to  which  he 
would  otherwise  be  subjected. 


272  ADVICE    TO    FAMILIES. 

Finally,  one  of  the  surest  guarantees  for  success  to  the 
emigrant,  of  whatever  business  or  circumstances,  is  the  entire 
banishment  of  ardent  spirits  from  his  house  and  premises. 
Where  these  are  an  allowed  guest,  no  security  can  be  sure  to 
prevent  their  producing  disaster  to  the  man  or  some  part  of 
his  household.  Entire  abstinence  alone  gives  certainty  that 
the  insidious  poison  will  never  infect  one  of  the  favored  circle 
where  it  is  practised.  On  one  side  is  at  least  doubt,  fear  and 
hazard  of  evils  worse  than  the  pestilence  ;  on  the  other  peace, 
confidence,  safety  and  success.  By  every  principle  of  right, 
and  every  feeling  of  affection,  and  every  hope  of  good  to  your 
children,  admit  not  the  instrument  of  intemperance  within  the 
precincts  of  your  home. 


273 


TEXAS, 

Dear  favor'd  land ! 

Thick  clustering  bounties,  flowing  o'er  thy  plains, 
Beauteous  as  flowers,  that  grace  thy  verdant  hills, 
Fragrant  as  odors,  breathed  from  Flora's  vale, 
Broad  as  thy  prairies,  waving  in  the  breeze, 
Rich  as  thy  soil,  in  full  profusion  clothed ; 
Who  filled  thy  stores  with  plenty,  corn  and  oil? 
Who  stor'd  thy  hills  with  mines  and  precious  ore? 
Who  drew  o'er  all  thy  face  a  map,  whose  lines 
Are  streams  and  rivers  bordered  wide  with  woods? 
Who  clad  thy  prairies,  hills  and  shady  meads 
In  verdant  robes,  embroidered  thick  with  flow'rs 
Whose  tints  are  various  as  the  bow,  and  fair 
And  lovely  as  the  garden's  brightest  gem 
Of  mingled  flowers  ? 

'Twas  He,  the  Saviour,  moved  by  love  to  man, 
And  bent  on  kindness  to  these  western  realms, 
With  lavish  hand  outspread  these  vales, 
And  bade  the  sun  and  breeze  and  waters  wide 
Their  powers  unite  to  grace  thee  in  their  course. 

Thus  bless'd  in  soil,  in  air,  and  beaming  skies, 
In  clouds  and  sunshine  ;  in  the  rivers  flow, 
In  corn  and  wine,  in  vale  and  mountain  favor'd ; 
Not  less  in  statesmen  grave,  in  patriots  pure, 
And  maidens  fair  and  honor'd  matrons  wise, 
And  teachers  sage,  and  holy  ministers 
Like  seers  of  old,  in  purity  and  fire 
Of  sacred  love,  be  thou  e'er  blest  of  Heaven, 


274 
PRAIRIES    OF    TEXAS. 

By  William  Cullen  Bryant. 

THESE  are  the  Gardens  of  the  Desert,  these 
The  unshorn  fields,  boundless  and  beautiful, 
For  which  the  speech  of  England  has  no  name — 
The  PRAIRIES.    I  behold  them  for  the  first, 
And  my  heart  swells,  while  the  dilated  sight 
Takes  in  the  encircling  vastness.    Lo!  they  stretch 
In  airy  undulations,  far  away, 
As  if  the  ocean,  in  his  gentlest  swell, 
Stood  still,  with  all  his  rounded  billows  fixed, 
And  motionless  forever. — Motionless?— 
No— they  are  all  unchained  again.    The  clouds 
Sweep  over  with  their  shadows,  and,  beneath, 
The  surface  rolls  and  fluctuates  to  the  eye  ; 
Dark  hollows  seem  to  glide  along  and  chase 
The  sunny  ridges.     Dreezes  of  the  South  ! 
Who  toss  the  golden  and  the  flame-like  flower?, 
And  pass  the  prairie-hawk  that,  poised  on  hiirh, 
Flaps  his  broad  wings,  yet  moves  not— ye  have  played 
Among  the  palms  of  Mexico  and  vines 
Of  TEXAS,  and  have  crisped  the  limpid  brooks 
That  from  the  fountains  of  Sonora  glide 
Into  the  calm  Pacific— have  ye  fanned 
A  nobler  and  a  lovelier  scene  than  this? 
Man  hath  no  part  in  all  this  glorious  work  : 
The  hand  that  built  the  firmament  hath  heaved 
And  smoothed  these  verdant  swells,  and  sown  their  slopes 
With  herbage,  planted  them  with  island  groves. 
And  hedged  them  round  with  forests.     Fitting  floor 
For  this  magnificent  temple  of  the  sky— 
With  flowers  whose  glory  and  whose  multitude 


275 

Rival  the  constellations !    The  great  heavens 

Seem  to  stoop  down  upon  the  scene  in  love,— 

A  nearer  vault,  and  of  a  tenderer  blue, 

Than  that  which  bends  above  the  eastern  hills, 

********* 

Still  this  great  solitude  is  quick  with  life. 
Myriads  of  insects,  gaudy  as  the  flowers 
They  flutter  over,  gentle  quadrupeds, 
And  birds,  that  scarce  have  learned  the  fear  of  man. 
Are  here,  and  sliding  reptiles  of  the  ground, 
Startingly  beautiful.    The  graceful  deer 
Bounds  to  the  woods  at  my  approach.    The  bee, 
A  more  adventurous  colonist  than  man, 
With  whom  he  came  across  the  eastern  deep, 
Fills  the  savannas  with  his  murmurings, 
And  hides  his  sweets,  as  in  the  golden  age, 
Within  the  hollow  oak.    I  listen  long 
To  his  domestic  hum,  and  think  I  hear 
The  sound  of  that  advancing  multitude 
Which  soon  shall  fill  these  deserts.    From  the  ground 
Comes  up  the  laugh  of  children,  the  soft  voice 
Of  maidens,  and  the  sweet  solemn  hymn 
Of  Sabbath  worshippers.     The  low  of  herds 
Blends  with  the  rustling  of  the  heavy  grain 
Over  the  dark-brown  furrows.    All  at  once 
A  fresher  wind  sweeps  by,  and  breaks  my  dream, 
And  I  am  in  the  wilderness  alone. 


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